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MYLR range is not adding up

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Mike321

Member
Supporting Member
Feb 15, 2024
21
11
Melbourne, FL
I've read every post I can find, and I'm still here wondering if there's something off with my battery. I did a full charge last night as I was going somewhere today and my range at 100% was 304 miles. I did notice the range on the Tesla website for the MYLR recently changed to 310 miles (was 330 when I bought it 2 weeks ago).

What I am curious about is why after only driving 9 miles since the charge, this morning my car was at 90% and my range now says 273 miles. The math doesn't add up. I know everyone says ignore the range and just focus on percentage, but I'm still scratching my head. The only thing I can think of is leaving it in sentry mode overnight is responsible for the missing 22 miles of range.

Sorry if this has been covered ad nauseum, I'm just looking for clarification that my battery is working as expected. Thanks for any help in advance.
 
Don’t have a LR, but your numbers seem about right.

Tesla is less than honest about range, the US Government is questioning their claims now.
Good to hear, after reading more posts, it seems like sentry mode, the temperature, running your A/C (I'm in Florida so it's always on) and even playing music can eat up range. I'll stop over thinking this and just enjoy the ride.
 
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I've read every post I can find, and I'm still here wondering if there's something off with my battery.
There isn’t.
The only thing I can think of is leaving it in sentry mode overnight is responsible for the missing 22 miles of range.
Good job with the thinking, this is exactly it. Sentry is a fantastic waste of energy.
 
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I did a full charge last night as I was going somewhere today and my range at 100% was 304 miles.

after only driving 9 miles since the charge, this morning my car was at 90% and my range now says 272 miles
I don't have an answer to your question. But from a lot of reading over that past two years, it's better for your battery if you drive right after a full charge instead of letting it sit. Also, if you dont need a full charge, do t do a 100% charge.

Sentry mode does consume power and your car does not sleep. It's gonna be drained as you would with no sleep. You can also bring up the energy app to see where the battery usage was.
 
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I don't have an answer to your question. But from a lot of reading over that past two years, it's better for your battery if you drive right after a full charge instead of letting it sit. Also, if you dont need a full charge, do t do a 100% charge.

Sentry mode does consume power and your car does not sleep. It's gonna be drained as you would with no sleep. You can also bring up the energy app to see where the battery usage was.
I’ll try that out too, thanks
 
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If you've read all you can here about range, battery, etc... you should know these numbers are "for reference only" and many factors will cause them to "not add up". Trying to make them do so is the quickest route to madness with an EV. Yes, set the indicator to percentage then drive and don't worry about it. If you choose to watching your wh/mi usage is a better use of your time and you'll see how your can improve your driving habits to extend your range. You're neither the first nor the last to learn this lesson the hard way so take some comfort in that - it's all part of learning to love your car. :cool:
 
The range at the top of the screen is essentially useless. It’s ideal EPA rated range and does not change based on your driving. It’s not achievable without extreme measures. Leave it on % display and forget about the miles.

If you need to go on a longer trip, always use the navigation even if you know where you’re going. The navigation will give you a more accurate estimate of range and when you need to charge.
 
Don’t have a LR, but your numbers seem about right.

Tesla is less than honest about range, the US Government is questioning their claims now.
The government while it’s at it should consider adjusting its method to accommodate comfort and functional features that for one manufacturer is ever-increasing, something it never had to worry about with dumb wagons…that are obsolete the day they rolls off manufacturing lines…or maybe not so appreciative customers (perhaps haters) should.
 
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I think in the long run, people will just know how large of a battery they need for their driving needs. We'll all get used to it and these types of threads and thoughts will fade away.

Leave it on % display and forget about the miles.

I second this... and it's what many others do. The miles are an estimate of what the remaining percentage might get you, while the percentage is a fairly accurate measurement of how much energy is actually remaining.

Since your car is a transportation device, it makes sense that you'd want to see miles up there. But since the battery is used to power many other things, that number is always an estimate, and not necessarily a good one. Better to switch to percentage and become comfortable with it.
 
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A couple of things.

First off: No question, Tesla followed the EPA rules when setting the mileage and W-hr/mile to a fare-thee-well. With a 2018 M3, a 2021 MY, and a 2023 M3 (sold the 2018), I've always gotten close to the EPA numbers. But I do live on the East Coast, where speeds tend to be somewhat slower, and I'm one of those drivers who doesn't play jackrabbit.

When the EPA decided, with good reason, to change the mechanism/procedure used to calculate the range/W-hr/mile, Tesla kicked right in and put in the new numbers based upon the new rules. Some people yelled, "Cheat!" because, well, why not. But they never broke any rules - rather, the opposite.

Next: The car's mileage estimators. In order of increasing accuracy, we have:
  1. The number at the top of the screen. The car takes the Best Estimate of the number of kW-hr's of charge in the battery and divides it by the W-hr/mile that's printed on the Mulrooney sticker, and displays the mileage until empty. You're driving on a cold day? With a head wind? With a tail wind? Going uphill? Going downhill? None of that is in there. Having said that, if it's the spiffy spring/summer/fall, there's nothing elevation-wise going on, and the wind's not blowing particularly, this estimate is vaguely reasonable.
  2. Energy Screen. Hit the triple-dot button in the middle of the bottom, pick the icon labeled "Energy", and stand back in wonder. In order:
    1. Right hand most tab is "Consumption". Has a plot of energy used on the Y axis and how far back it was in the X axis, where your current position is on the right. Not bad. You'll see the last hill you climbed, the last hill you drove down, any mad acceleration or deceleration, or when you moved from local roads to the interstate. It shows an average over the selected range (I think 5, 10, or 30 miles?) which, if you're going at a more-or-less constant speed, is reasonably accurate, and shows the range from this average. Nice when it shows, say, 196 miles to empty when the number at the top of the screen is showing 160. Not so much fun if those two are flipped, though.
    2. Left hand most tab has the strangest plot I've seen in a while, which shows estimated range vs. Official Range for the drive one is doing. Cute. But the real money is on the listing down below, where it shows a little bar chart of sorts with terms like "driving", Air conditioning, altitude, and three or so others. Each one of these items is either green (you're making it farther than "expected") or red (less far).
  3. The %battery at trips end. This is the number when you have your destination plugged into the NAV, and shows up in the box at the bottom of the screen which shows your distance to the destination and the %charge when you get there. THIS is the most accurate estimator. Going on local and superhighways? It's in there. Up a mountain and down the other side? It's in there. There's a windstorm heading your way and will hit in a half hour, either blowing you down the road or pushing you backwards? It's in there. It's ALL in there. One number, but it's as accurate as Tesla can make it.
And, just mentioning one other thing: The middle tab in the Energy screen has the energy usage you've been using while you've been parked. Interested in Sentry battery drain? Or running the heat/cooling while parked in Dog mode? It's in there. Handy when people are trying to figure out where their range hath gone.

Finally: A lot of the above depends upon an accurate measure of the contents of charge in the BMS (Battery Management System). Turns out, the BMS, while more accurate than a typical ICE's idea of how much gas is in the tank, isn't nailed in stone. About a year after getting our initial 2018 M3, the displayed mileage at the top had dropped from the initial 320 miles or so (dividing the displayed number by the %charge) to 299 or so. All of this was on short, local trips, 15-20 miles or so.

Then took a 900 mile trip south and back on a vacation, charging up madly at Superchargers, with the battery charge dropping down into the single digits and back up again. Lo and behold, after the first day, the displayed range number went right back up into the 320's. And stayed up there for a month or so, then started decaying back down again.

This got to be a recognizable pattern. Local driving, the estimated mileage drops 20 miles or so. Do long distance: Not right away, but after the 2nd or 3rd Supercharging session there it was, back up again. When the car was sold last year, the max number was around 309-311, about a 3% drop in displayed charge, not bad for a 5 year old car.

Deal is, being something of a reliability engineer, I can safely tell you that, over a large enough population of vehicles (or anything else), Some Of Everything Dies, sooner or later. It's not even necessarily wear; I mean, the occasional ICE car manufactured somewhere throws a rod or breaks a crankshaft. It's why there're warranties. So, does your drop in range mean that your car's got a defect? Probably not, most cars don't, and your drop in range kinda sounds like some of the above. But if it starts getting down into the 10% down range, contact Tesla. They got super-duper diagnostics for the battery system that can suss out the evil stuff. Or get you kicked out of the Service Center with a, "Really, don't be so sensitive to these kind of things." admonition. If your decreased range gets down into 30+ miles, then bug them.
 
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a lot of factors affect the "estimated range", the computer is constantly calculating the "estimated range" as you're driving and adjusts to the driving conditions.

tires/wheel size

fast/slow acceleration

temperature

a/c & heating

direction the wind is blowing

city vs highway


its the same with ICE vehicles, but their computers just calculate how much gas is in the gas tank and give a rough estimate on how many miles are left according to the current calculated mpg. my wife gets 24/25 mpg when she drives my Sportage, i only get 22 mpg. the first 500 miles break in period i drove casually and was able to get 23/24 mpg.
 
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With Sentry on, parked outdoors (not plugged in) in winter (often in twenties degrees) and preset preconditioning at departure in the morning, my 2023 MYP loses 5-7% range overnight. And that’s normal.

In the morning go to the Energy app (green color), then “park” tab second from left. It will show you the energy usage while parked, and percentage for each item (I.e Sentry, precondition, mobile connection, and so on)
 
I would have set the charge to 100% on the schedule so that it was at 100% by whatever time you planned to leave.
As you now know, by charging it to 100% hours before you left there was a bunch of battery load used by Sentry mode and standard system drain which is about 1% when not in Sentry mode.
So ya, use the charge and trip scheduling in the app next time and you should see a few more miles. It's also healthier for the battery to not leave it at 100% for very long and most charging should be to 80% and even better is smallish charge cycles like 50-80% or 45-75% instead of 20-80% unless doing long trips.
 
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Everyone pretty much said what basically most of us learned as you did/will

I will 2nd that sentry mode is laughable on drain i never turn it on ever unless im going to a parking lot at some place turn it on then back off when im back if anything

And cabin overheat protection is another i turned off cause it would milk the battery like 6% in a hot afternoon easily in like 4 hours

Also when at 100% you basically have very little regen or none so most of energy is being used and nothing put back so usually the first 10% is gonna go down faster then slow down after that with regen back in
 
Everyone pretty much said what basically most of us learned as you did/will

I will 2nd that sentry mode is laughable on drain i never turn it on ever unless im going to a parking lot at some place turn it on then back off when im back if anything

And cabin overheat protection is another i turned off cause it would milk the battery like 6% in a hot afternoon easily in like 4 hours

Also when at 100% you basically have very little regen or none so most of energy is being used and nothing put back so usually the first 10% is gonna go down faster then slow down after that with regen back in
Is there a version of sentry mode that isn’t laughable? If say Bentley were to have one (that probably would come at an arm and a leg), how would it be powered? Perhaps Fisker’s version would be powered by solar panel…or the yet-but-soon-to-be-revealed…by starlight energy; the car has to be kept outside overnight though.

Is a few miles worth of battery for these convenient features that big of a deal to us? Never had I once thought of fuel capacity over the years owning ICE vehicles, all of a sudden I see commentaries on range left and right…and talks of 500 miles. If we’re dealing with BMW early EV’s with 60-80 miles capacity, that would make sense; ours is around 300 and can be charged at home…backed by the largest SC and non-SC network.

How easy is it to put a large tank in an ICE vehicle to house 25 gallons of fuel? Why hasn’t it been done for the majority of personal vehicles over all these decades? Maybe it’s just not necessary, illogical and doesn’t make sense for fuel efficiency purposes. Just because equipping the vehicle with a tank of a battery is possible doesn’t mean i would ever want one.
 
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