Model S owners give me your insights

[lafrisbee]

(Please provide with your insights on any of the below considerations.)
Since my Cyber(nota)truck is 2-3 yrs late, and probably 3-4 yrs before my order will be filled, And I have been hanging on to my 2008 Dodge Ram pick-up for 5 yrs longer than I usually keep a vehicle, I am considering getting an OLD (lifetime supercharging just cranks my tractor) used 2015-ish Model S for the following reasons:

1) A Model S 2014-2017 should still be ok? (much better than my 2008 truck.) And give me a rich man's vibe. Or should I avoid them for some inherent issue?

2) To see what it is actually like to drive and own an EV. Coming from a 13-15 mpg vehicle which doesn't even have wifi (Dodge trucks did not have wifi or Bluetooth back then). I don't need today's gadgets. I just want the vibe and routine of a Tesla.

3) LIFETIME SUPERCHARGING: I know I know. It could be the wrong reason to buy any car, but damn I love the idea. I imagine some major-glamping, loooong road trips. It seems the S has the second best sleep-in experience. And I can sleep anywhere it is not hot.

4) How big a drop is the 2014-17 Model S from the non-plaid S today? Some of you must be such big S fans that you've driven em all?

5) Are the teslas, Model S in particular, showing their age? or going strong?

6) In between 2014 and 2017 were there any big improvements that warrant the extra cost?

So my idea is, get a cheap nice looking Tesla, drive it till my Cyber(nota)truck is available, and then well...

 

[Tam]

1) A Model S 2014-2017 should still be ok? (much better than my 2008 truck.) And give me a rich man's vibe. Or should I avoid them for some inherent issue?

Old cars, either ICE or EV, can break down. As long as you have a budget for repairs, you'll be fine. The biggest repair cost is your battery pack.

3) LIFETIME SUPERCHARGING: I know I know. It could be the wrong reason to buy any car, but damn I love the idea. I imagine some major-glamping, loooong road trips. It seems the S has the second best sleep-in experience. And I can sleep anywhere it is not hot.

It could be complicated. The original owner may have given up on that right, and the car still doesn't reflect that fact, and it makes you think it still has a free supercharger until the ownership is changed. The owner may have kept the free supercharging intact but what if Tesla makes a mistake and disable your free supercharging? It'll be an uphill battle to prove your case.

What I mean is: It is not clear-cut. It could be risky.

5) Are the teslas, Model S in particular, showing their age? or going strong?

Some keep theirs in very good condition, but aging will take a toll on certain parts: MCU (the central screen, computer, memory), battery, HVAC, door handles, $6,000 lightbulb...

 

[Svandevo]

There are plenty of 2015 and earlier cars that supercharge very slowly compared to any 100 KWH packs. I’ve treated my 100 kwh 2017 S with care and after 104,000 miles I see up to 175 KW which is more than its stated max. I would check out the forums before buying. Personally I would try for a 100 KWH pack.

 

[dsm363]

As said above, make sure it actually has free supercharging before you buy if you go that route.

 

[aerodyne]

There are plenty of 2015 and earlier cars that supercharge very slowly compared to any 100 KWH packs. I’ve treated my 100 kwh 2017 S with care and after 104,000 miles I see up to 175 KW which is more than its stated max. I would check out the forums before buying. Personally I would try for a 100 KWH pack.

Agreed, former 2015 85D owner here.

100 pack, 2017+ and MCU2. Get one with a light interior and oak trim and Sunroof, and I'd say it's a keeper.

 

[brkaus]

100 pack, 2017+ and MCU2. Get one with a light interior and oak trim and Sunroof, and I'd say it's a keeper.

That doesn’t get the unlimited free supercharging. But I agree. I have a 2017 s100d, oak, black leather, sunroof. I keep thinking about getting a new one but I like mine.

 

[SSonnentag]

• Door handles and inner-door window mechanisms fail with some regularity. In 6 years and 194,000 miles I went through 5 door handles and 2 window internals. (2017 S 100D)
• Suspension clunks in the front are annoying, but ultimately harmless.
• Vibration in the frontend during moderate to hard acceleration is normal and apparently harmless.
• MCU2 upgrade is a must in my opinion.
• All screens get a yellow border after some time. It may be a year. It may be 3 years, but it will happen. Some say it is due to an uncured substance that some people claim to be able to sometimes cure with a UV light. I never bothered with it. I like yellow.
• FSD is a waste of money on older models.
• Free supercharging won't transfer on anything with a 100 pack. Anything with a smaller pack that may include free supercharging will likely charge slowly.
• Daytime running lights are florescent and turn brown in a year or so. Don't bother replacing them as they are expensive and go bad quickly again. Embrace the brown glow.

 

[lafrisbee]

There are plenty of 2015 and earlier cars that supercharge very slowly compared to any 100 KWH packs. I’ve treated my 100 kwh 2017 S with care and after 104,000 miles I see up to 175 KW which is more than its stated max. I would check out the forums before buying. Personally I would try for a 100 KWH pack.

Could you give me your favorite "Model S Forum"?

 

[dsm363]

I actually have MCU1. It works for navigation and music but I'm sure MCU2 is better. I didn't think it was worth the upgrade though as it really wouldn't have added much to such an old car.

I went through a few door handle replacements as well.

 

[lafrisbee]

I appreciate all of you.

 

[brkaus]

No door handle replacements for me. I did put in MCU2, my MCU1 was crapping out on me pretty bad. Both blackouts and if I missed a turn on navligation it would take so long to re-navigate I would even miss the next opportunity to turn. Wash, rinse, repeat.

I'm sure there was something wrong with my MCU1, but I didn't want to mess with the emmc stuff and just paid the $$ to go to MCU2.

95k miles.

 

[dsm363]

I appreciate all of you.

For the right price, I think if you can find a 2015 Model S maybe with free supercharging, that would work. Just be aware of course a major expense could be around the corner. But that's the case with almost any 8+ year old car.

 

[Raroia]

I would recommend a 2016 or 2017, definitely go for the refreshed one or the newest production one you can find. They made several changes such as rerouting the AC condensate away from directly on the battery pack causing water ingress over time. So many tiny incremental changes were made from 2012-2017 I really recommend avoiding the earlier model S which I view as a learning experience/platform for Tesla. The fit and finish on mine is flawless. Excellent build quality and very comfortable.

Make sure you read up on SC01 supercharging code as this is really what will dictate if it is transferable free supercharging or not.

Lots of 2016 with SC01, 2017 will be really tough to find, but can keep an eye out for a 2017 75D like mine with SC01.

I personally recommend against the air suspension and also against the sunroof/glass roof. More things that can go wrong.

Definitely make sure it has premium interior, I think it’s called premium upgrades package I am sure somebody will correct me if wrong.

2017ish was the last year with real genuine leather if you care about that. Was a dealbreaker for me when looking at newer ones, most people don’t mind pleather.

Pre 2015 ones seem to be plagued with battery issues that render the car a paperweight effectively, although it is too early to tell how the 2015-17 will fare long term…

MCU1 has not been an issue for me, we take long road trips every weekend and go camping as you mention.

Supercharging is what I consider to be very fast, always above 100kw and often above 130kw. I have hit 150kw frequently in ideal conditons with my 90k mile 2017 75D.

Nearly forgot: I recommend avoiding the P performance models unless you want to deal with replacing the rear drive unit for 7k$. They are a failed design as evidenced by the I believe “H” part number revisions letter meaning they have gone through A-H design revisions… and they still fail. The non performance D awd models have both front and rear small drive units that seem bulletproof from what I have read. The D is still incredibly fast (to me at least).

Things I wish I knew:
The headlights absolutely suck.
Not much else…

My model S is my first EV and I won’t ever go back to an ICE except for a truck… looking to buy a 99 7.3 power stroke super cab short bed 6 speed manual. I have had everything from a Corolla to a 911, the model S is the best car I have ever owned.

 

[stevej119]

Repairs hav been mentioned, and you have to consider a replacement new battery pack is approx. $18k on an S out of warranty.

I have 241,000 miles on my 2015 85D and it still drives great and has only lost about 11% of its range. When I bought it, I knew I’d be driving it about a quarter of a million miles and bd out of warranty for everything other than battery and motors in 15 months, so there were a few thing which I intentional stayed away from:

21” wheels - the tires last only about 9k miles for most, vs the 60k I get with my 19’s. The money I saved on tires opine over the last eight years almost fully paid for the new S LR I purchased last week.

Air Suspension - It’s wonderful, but a very expensive repair down the road. And not so far down the road if you’re purchasing an older model. My new car has it as there’s no option, but I chose coil suspension on the 2015 to keep cost down, down the road.

Sunroof - another expensive repair when it goes bad (leaks, motor stops working, etc). Some people love them and wouldn’t by a nes car without one (although you can’t buy a Tesla with an opening sun roof now), But most people never open them anyway.

There were probably more for this list, but those are all I recall for the moment.

Also, be prepared to replace door handles. I think I’ve had four replaced at approx $300 each, iirc. A there’s nothing about my high mileage which wears those out faster. I’m not likely using my door handles any more than the average Tesla driver. Each time I open ta door and drive, I’m just going s longer distance.

I have to say that it’s the best car I’ve ever owned, until this week. I’d be reluctant to purchase one with no, or almost no, warranty remaining on the battery. As others have mentioned, to replace the battery you could be paying as much as you paid the car. Before Tesla offered the FUSC transfer, I was going to keep driving the 3025 until the battery failed, then spend the $18k for a new (not remanufsctured) battery when necessary. For me, having paid $100k for the car (before subtracting out $10k in Fed and State tax credits), being able to continue on with it after 250k, 270k…. however many miles the battery lasted, $18k seems like a bargain to keep it going with FUSC for another 4+ years. Buying one used, most people are not prepared for that potential near-term expense.

 

[dsm363]

Repairs hav been mentioned, and you have to consider a replacement new battery pack is approx. $18k on an S out of warranty.

I have 241,000 miles on my 2015 85D and it still drives great and has only lost about 11% of its range. When I bought it, I knew I’d be driving it about a quarter of a million miles and bd out of warranty for everything other than battery and motors in 15 months, so there were a few thing which I intentional stayed away from:

21” wheels - the tires last only about 9k miles for most, vs the 60k I get with my 19’s. The money I saved on tires opine over the last eight years almost fully paid for the new S LR I purchased last week.

Air Suspension - It’s wonderful, but a very expensive repair down the road. And not so far down the road if you’re purchasing an older model. My new car has it as there’s no option, but I chose coil suspension on the 2015 to keep cost down, down the road.

Sunroof - another expensive repair when it goes bad (leaks, motor stops working, etc). Some people love them and wouldn’t by a nes car without one (although you can’t buy a Tesla with an opening sun roof now), But most people never open them anyway.

There were probably more for this list, but those are all I recall for the moment.

Also, be prepared to replace door handles. I think I’ve had four replaced at approx $300 each, iirc. A there’s nothing about my high mileage which wears those out faster. I’m not likely using my door handles any more than the average Tesla driver. Each time I open ta door and drive, I’m just going s longer distance.

I have to say that it’s the best car I’ve ever owned, until this week. I’d be reluctant to purchase one with no, or almost no, warranty remaining on the battery. As others have mentioned, to replace the battery you could be paying as much as you paid the car. Before Tesla offered the FUSC transfer, I was going to keep driving the 3025 until the battery failed, then spend the $18k for a new (not remanufsctured) battery when necessary. For me, having paid $100k for the car (before subtracting out $10k in Fed and State tax credits), being able to continue on with it after 250k, 270k…. however many miles the battery lasted, $18k seems like a bargain to keep it going with FUSC for another 4+ years. Buying one used, most people are not prepared for that potential near-term expense.

Same here. I had no intention to get a new car for at least another year or two until a new design Model S with 4680 cells hopefully came out. But transferring the Supercharging over and getting back under a warranty for at least 4 years will be nice.

 

[dmurphy]

I’m not sure what your budget is for a used S, but I’ll be a bit contrarian …

I’d suggest looking for a 2019-2020 “Raven” Model S. Something like this: https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/f0887ae8-9665-471f-a834-4222b54cb55d/

It’s got a solid battery + motors, still under warranty for several years. All the “upgrades” (car computer etc) done already, and a much improved suspension.

Really the sweet spot IMO for not much more $$ than a 2016 or 2017 model.

Now it won’t have free supercharging, but I have to be honest … it’s worth more emotionally than it is in the real world. And that’s from someone who has an X with it. If I added up all the cross country road trips and such we’ve taken, it’s a couple $K at most. Maybe $2500 or so over 4 years? Real money for sure, but not enough for me to compromise on the vehicle for, if that makes sense?

I have a 2021 Model S (the “refresh” model) — and part of me wishes I’d have waited and bought that 2019 for $38k instead. The “car to dollar” ratio would be a lot better.