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Living with the 16v LV battery

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So I tried out my 12V cooler and it works great on our 2023 MX. The problem is unlike our 2018, power is cut when the vehicle is closed. I even used sentry mode thinking that it will keep power on the rear plug with no luck. Options anyone?



This includes the front cig lighter too. When we make stops away from the house, the radar detector that I have plugged in the front under the cup holders powers off as well, for anytime we come back, the detector turns back on as if power has been cut. This is with sentry on too.

Best option I’ve come up with …. I just use this to power the portable fridge, rather than the car. No risk of the power cutting out when the car locks.

Amazon.com
 
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"This" is a dog?
No, it's a $900 portable power station.
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Seems extreme to me.
 
No, it's a $900 portable power station. View attachment 990893

Seems extreme to me.

It does have a $100 coupon (so only $800!) -- but just want to say I use it for a heck of a lot more than just the cooler ... We use it when camping, for power outages, etc.

It's come in clutch more times than I can count.... the cooler use is just a fringe benefit.
 
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Best option I’ve come up with …. I just use this to power the portable fridge, rather than the car. No risk of the power cutting out when the car locks.

Amazon.com
I love the idea. Wow, that's some "Pow-er" I added it to my cart.
One is sitting on a massive battery so why not use it? Put it in camp mode and the 12v socket will remain on.
Thanks for the idea. I'll keep that in mind when we make stops.
 
Don't fool yourself. Pumps with their own battery are often useless, because the battery runs empty. I know, I have one of those and no longer use it.

Had to buy one with a 12 V cigarette lighter cord that is capable of filling a tire completely.

Beware also the Chinese pumps that all look slightly different, but all contain the same garbage pressure sensor and electronics. They produce a different pressure each time you pump. I guess one really has to work hard to design such nonsense.

I've had mine (WORX WX092L 20V 2.0Ah 2 in 1 Cordless Inflator) for about 18 months and it has worked flawlessly. Had a slow leak once where I had to fill the tire from 15 to 40lbs a few times and it only took a few minutes. Tops offs take a minute or two. Comparing to the TPMS readout, and a highly accurate tire pressure gauge, it's 100% accurate. Only charge it once every 5-6 months for insurance. Have never had a dead battery.
 
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I have a solution to 16V power for 12V appliances at implementation phase for my uses, which are mostly for camping. A 12V DC extension cable with waterproof solid state voltage regulator in-line. Anything between 8V and 40V DC goes in and 13.8V comes out. All automotive 12V appliance will work fine at 13.8V. This also gives me a 12 foot extension so I can power a fridge or other appliance outside the car. I have no idea on the efficiency of the unit, but its shouldn't matter for my purposes as my typical load will be 35W output for the fridge. I could also wire up a female cigarette light adapter to my 18V power tool batteries and use those to power the fridge to move it farther from the car. I carry those with me camping and I can recharge those batteries in the car via usb-c.
 

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Don't fool yourself. Pumps with their own battery are often useless, because the battery runs empty. I know, I have one of those and no longer use it.

Had to buy one with a 12 V cigarette lighter cord that is capable of filling a tire completely.

Beware also the Chinese pumps that all look slightly different, but all contain the same garbage pressure sensor and electronics. They produce a different pressure each time you pump. I guess one really has to work hard to design such nonsense.

I went with Amazon.com it charges over USB and I've been able to set my tire pressure predictably with it.

I did 8 tires in a row (2 cars) the first night I used it. I added about 10 pounds per tire (seasonal weather change, I wanted to get tire pressure up before the winter drop and I had the tire pressure set for the peak of summer heat before that).

As to how long the battery lasts, I had no problems with running out of charge after adding air to the 8 tires the battery was still almost fully charged. It pumped just as well on the 8th tire as it did on the first.

So yeah, there might be junk Chinese pumps but I'm saying this Chinese pump wasn't junk.
 
I have a solution to 16V power for 12V appliances at implementation phase for my uses, which are mostly for camping. A 12V DC extension cable with waterproof solid state voltage regulator in-line. Anything between 8V and 40V DC goes in and 13.8V comes out. All automotive 12V appliance will work fine at 13.8V. This also gives me a 12 foot extension so I can power a fridge or other appliance outside the car. I have no idea on the efficiency of the unit, but its shouldn't matter for my purposes as my typical load will be 35W output for the fridge. I could also wire up a female cigarette light adapter to my 18V power tool batteries and use those to power the fridge to move it farther from the car. I carry those with me camping and I can recharge those batteries in the car via usb-c.
To follow up on my own post: I received the fridge and connected it using this patch cable with voltage regulator. Works perfect, ran it in the car for about 20 hours. No measurable battery loss between the car being in sentry mode only, vs in sentry mode and powering the fridge. The voltage regulator was barely warm.
 
Mine is the F40C4TMP 23-quart cooler that I bought from Amazon. I bought it last summer, and it’s been great through repeated shopping trips, boating, and 8,500 miles of road trips. It’s had zero issues with 15.2v, and you can leave it running indefinitely if you enable Sentry to prevent the car from going to sleep.
My refrigerator description on Amazon is "12 Volt Refrigerator, 26 Quart / 25L Portable Refrigerator Freezer, Car Fridge With 12/24V DC Cord and 110V AC Adapter,"

I have a question in to the manufacturer but someone already has one and they have not responded in a month.

Does the 12/24V imply that it can handle 16 volts ?
 
My refrigerator description on Amazon is "12 Volt Refrigerator, 26 Quart / 25L Portable Refrigerator Freezer, Car Fridge With 12/24V DC Cord and 110V AC Adapter,"

I have a question in to the manufacturer but someone already has one and they have not responded in a month.

Does the 12/24V imply that it can handle 16 volts ?
Same cord in both cases and no switches to select voltage?