How does the final payment process work in the app? I started going through the process because I thought I could just link my bank and get it ready now but it seems like when I link it, the payment will be sent automatically and I don't want to pay until I've inspected the car.

Can I link it ahead of time and pay later? Can I choose to send a small amount now just to test things out? Does it take time for it to show that I've paid so I get the car? Or should I just do it all there after reviewing the car?

Any details before I accidentally fork over tens of thousands of dollars would be appreciated.

Can the fender camera's be added after market to pre-2017 model S?

Not side pillars but the fender, the side pillars are a definite no, even I can see that.

This is the damage. For context… I was in my driveway getting ready to leave for a concert and my cousin was pulling in next to me to put his car in the garage… I had waved to him and out the car in reverse. I looked all around to make sure it was okay for me to back out. I started backing out of my driveway and suddenly someone came zooming behind me and i ended up hitting them. They were going really fast so i didn’t see them and the car never alerted me that someone was there. So i ended up with this kinda of damage… Luckily my car is still drive able but i want to know if its repairable or will it be totaled… Its a 2020 Model 3

For the life of me I cannot figure this out. I don't get text messages very often in the car that I "need" to respond to while driving. However, I occasionally do, and the text-to-speech volume of the text message is quite loud. How do I lower this volume? When I use the left scroll wheel to lower (while message is being read) it only lowers the media volume.

I’ve saved my wife’s driver profile many times…linked it to her phone key…it still won’t remember it and wants her to reset her profile every time. Am I missing something simple here ? New 2024 MYLR..love the car, but she does have her quirks..

Has anybody had problems with the Continental cross contact LX Sport tires blowing on rear of car? I have lost both rears at less than 6000 miles.

I'm helping my parents with a lease renewal on their Model 3 Performance. They have a bill for the renewal of their registration due June 15th (same date as the lease is set to expire). Currently the new order is set to be delivered in "June". Can they can turn the car in early to avoid double paying the registration fee? In the online questionnaire for lease return they were also prompted with a question saying that "they will be presented the best lease end option" if they choose to return their lease when taking delivery. What does this even mean and if they want to return it early I assume the answer to this prompt should be no. Thanks in advance for any help!

I had my front license plate removed. I had the tape as well as bracket holding on the plate with 2 screws from under the bumper. Now that the plate is removed, I left with a barely visible crease on the bumper from where the plate was. Any suggestions on repairing. My (come to my home repair guy who is excellent ) asked me if there was any way to get to the bumper without taking off the bumper. Is there a way to get to the bumper from inside the car? Any repair suggestions / costs?

So, I bought a used, 2020 Model X Long Range Plus from a dealer in another city. The Carfax was clean and the dealer assured me that vehicle passed a thorough inspection. I purchased the vehicle without performing an independent inspection. I've been driving the vehicle for about a week with no major issues.

On a lark, I decided to check Autocheck for this vehicle, and it turns out it was involved in an accident in December. The title is clean and there are no major repairs reported, but there's also no information about the accident. Can the Tesla Service Center determine the extent of any accident-related vehicle damage? What is the best course at this point?

Hi everyone. Im very close to having everything ready and need help solving the missing piece.

I currently have 6-3 Romex running to a 14-50 NEMA outlet.

I will be replacing that outlet with a subpanel. Throwing on two seperate breakers which will be used to run two Tesla Wall Connectors. I know Ill be limited to 40A and want to split it 20A/20A when both my MY and M3 are charging at the dame time.

My question is.. what subpanel size should I buy? And what size of should those two breakers inside the subpanels be?

Thank you.

I am having occasional trouble with audio on my iPhone working only one way (they can hear me but I can’t hear them, or vice versa) in the middle of a call. To be clear, I’m talking about using my phone outside of the car but potentially near the car. Could proximity to the car or having the Tesla app on my phone be the cause of these audio glitches? It is a 2023 model Y if that matters.

I have heard a lot of people on YouTube and Tiktok say to get the white paint to help with the heat of the car when it’s left outside in the sun. However, it seems like everyone in my town has a white Tesla so I was thinking about the blue paint. Does anyone know if the blue car gets just as hot as a black or gray car?

Range question model y

Hello everyone!

I have a 2023 Model Y LR. At 100% charge the range shows 279 miles.

I was curious about battery degradation so I’ve followed instructions and let the car perform the battery test. Checked the next day and results came in at 99% battery health which is great, but at 100% it still shows 279.

Does the battery health test also perform a recalibration for BMR or is that a separate exercise that needs to be done? I generally try to not worry about miles and have it show % instead but still a bit bothers me why it only shows 279 if batter health is 99%

(Side note I only charge to 100% for the sake of this testing i don’t do that regularly)

Thank you!

I'm looking to get an interim car with SC01 FUSC (Free Unlimited Supoercharging) and Tesla warned me even if Tesla re-introduces FUSC transfers, I might not be able to transfer to a new MS as she thought it only applied to the original owner. This doesn't sound right, just thought I'd check with you guys...

Thanks!

When I have sentry mode enabled in the car and there is an event, should I receive a notification notice on the phone?

Version 11.1 2024.3.25, I think is the software version.

Hi all,

Like some of you, my M3 has been noisy since the get-go. I've brought it to the service center numerous times in an attempt to work through the different squeaks, clunks, and rattles. I have most of them taken care of except for a few that are infrequent and not very noticeable during normal driving conditions. However, there's been one rattle in an ambiguous location that has been a thorn in my ass since the day I took delivery and has only gotten worse. The rattle sounds like plastic-on-plastic or perhaps a loose wiring harness or bolt. It's a sharp, irregular ticking sound that seems to come from the passenger side near the wheel well, but I'm not entirely sure. As a matter of fact, I've found a YouTube video with the sound I'm talking about https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g7zs0aFdMA0. What I find odd is that it only occurs at highway speeds. It doesn't matter what temperature it is, what the driving surface is like, or if it's raining or snowing. It always occurs above 50 MPH and is the same intensity no matter what. Bearing all of this in mind I'm pretty convinced it has to do with high speed air buffeting/vibrating something; either there is something in the HVAC system bouncing around (like a tree seed or pebble), or there's a piece of plastic bouncing off of some metal piece.

What I've done so far:

• I removed every item from the glovebox and center consoles.
• I've inspected the fender liner on the passenger side, which wasn't properly installed (snapped the tab back under the opposite side). I notice that it does seem to make a rattle noise if I tap it or move it around a little bit. However, I'm not sure how to remove the liner to add some foam underneath so it doesn't contact the metal so much.
• I took off the maintenance cover of the cabin air intake and cleaned it out (no debris). I inspected the clips and everything appeared to be in order.
• I inspected the frunk clips (not very much play I doubt this is what's making the noise), and made sure everything was tight and firmly in place. I've also removed every loose item from the frunk and placed it in my trunk or in my home.

At this point I think it's the fender liner or the HVAC system - I would take it to the service center again but the people at my location tend to take one step forward then two steps back every time I bring it in. Does anyone have any ideas or advice? Have any of you successfully dealt with this before?

Bought a used 2020 Model X from Tesla a few months ago with 29K miles, love it. Tried to format an USB to try Sentry mode and it says to remove Guest mode to allow it. how do I get rid of guest mode. Read something about maybe the car was a retail. Also I can't name the car. Anything I can do without taking it into Tesla service. Thanks

Anyone have this same issue and/or know how to fix ? When I charge my car, actual kwh used for previous charge show up on the wall charger page.. (actual on car page are not accurate & diminish each day as I lose percentage). So problem/issue is.. the wall charger page occasionally fails to add charge session.. about once a month. Pretty aure I still have to pay electric co. for those 23kw and just trying to keep track of how much of my electric bill is for the car. Hard to be accurate if 10% of the charges are missing.

Anyone know how to get around this issue where I can't use my Google Voice phone (directly) to make or receive calls in the car using my Premium Connectivity ?

My independent garage thinks I need special Tesla pads to jack up my model 3 to rotate the tyres. They are also worried about confusing the tyre sensors if they do. Anybody know the answers?

Has anyone that is on Intel MCU hardware (I have a 2020 Model 3) recieved 2024.14.x update as yet?

I'm wondering if the update is not being deployed to older cars. I have been really looking forward to Audible and speed camera audible alerts.

I'm also curious if the auto trunk open feature is enabled on older cars. My trunk is not electric opening but I do have the springs to auto open it when latch is released.

Hello, I just purchased my 2022 Tesla Model 3, LR, AWD a couple of weeks ago. I am having connection issues I believe with the computer in the car.
The version I have downloaded to the Tesla, is V11.1, I am using an iPhone 14 Pro Max, iOS 17.5.

My wife and I both drive the vehicle, however, it doesn’t matter who unlocks and enters the driver’s seat, it doesn’t recognize the driver, and seat settings remain set to whoever drove the car last. I am also having to repair the Bluetooth / phone, every time I enter the car, it doesn’t automatically pair with the phone, I do have my phone as the main default to connect to the car. I am not really sure that this is supposed to be the case or not, but from what I have been reading in the forum’s, it is supposed to know who is driving and pair to our phones automatically.

Can anyone tell me if they have been having the same issues, or how I could fix this issue? my car has 90,000 on it, so it no longer has a warranty.

Thank you for your time

I’m new to Tesla is it OK to charge it every night and top it off or should I let it run down then charge it back up to 80%? Also what is the cost to install a wall charger?

I noticed I have a weird bird chirping noise kind of deal going on. I don’t hear it with the windows closed, when I roll down the driver side window I hear it fairly well. It sounds EXACTLY like this video here that I linked. Any clues on what this could be and how I could fix this? I really don’t wanna spend hundreds to take it SC to have them diagnose it and fix it. Or maybe not even find the issue. Thought I’d check here first! Thanks in advance!

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