Model S Technical / Mechanical Issues

[steve841]

Thanks to everyone who has responded. I'm not always this daft.

@steve841: Yes, black, no screen. The dash screen is fine, however. No issues...tells me I'm to wait until the Touchscreen powers on. I don't know the firmware version, but I think we're current. Doesn't appear to be a sleep mode issue.

Sat in the seat, pressed the brake. Tried to move to R to see if screen powered on. First, it told me I needed to wait for touchscreen. On second time and I think after the scroll wheels touch (yep, a full 15-30 seconds. a few times), it did let me go in reverse, but without the touch screen/back-up cam, I don't trust myself getting out of garage.

Tesla advised to hold down the buttons above the scroll wheels, on either side (the voice command and the FFWD buttons) for 15 seconds (went for a minute) WHILE pressing the brake. This didn't do anything. We waited for it all to reset, but nothing.

The little charger port thingy (I don't know what it's called) opened fine, flashed blue, but doesn't charge at all, goes dark after a couple minutes.

Good Times. Good Times. Probably is the dead 12V thing. Because hubs is in Germany, and I'm really quite new to the board until I get my Model X, I'm not in the know about everything techie. But, what a fun immersion.

Also, I thought I was starting my own thread, but I clearly hijacked someone elses. Sorry 'bout that. I blame the panic attack.

It's not your 12V!

I'd bet your MCU (17" screen) has failed. Definitely requires Tesla's SC to get involved.

 

[huntjo]

I bet steve841 is right unfortunately.
And it seems you inadvertently posted this issue on a very appropriate thread, so no need for apologies! :biggrin:
Let us know how Tesla helps resolve this for you. Wish I could offer more advice

 

[Todd Burch]

I had my first Gen 2 handle "quirk" this morning: I pulled on the back door handle to drop my briefcase in and the handle did nothing. Like all the new handles, it moved the 1/4 inch or so, but the door didn't unlatch. When I released the handle, it sprung immediately back in. It didn't "glide" in, it fell back into the door very quickly under the influence of what felt like a spring. The other handles remained extended. I did a lock/unlock cycle with the key fob and it worked normally. Weird.

I don't think this is a handle thing. It's a software thing.

Every once in awhile I go back out to my car after work, the handles extend, I go to pull on them, and the door won't open. I wait 5-10 seconds, then they work. It's like the car is doing some background processing so it's not ready to process the "open door" event yet.

 

[Doug_G]

I had my first Gen 2 handle "quirk" this morning: I pulled on the back door handle to drop my briefcase in and the handle did nothing. Like all the new handles, it moved the 1/4 inch or so, but the door didn't unlatch. When I released the handle, it sprung immediately back in. It didn't "glide" in, it fell back into the door very quickly under the influence of what felt like a spring. The other handles remained extended. I did a lock/unlock cycle with the key fob and it worked normally. Weird.

I saw an interesting "new handle" firmware glitch the other day. I went to open the front passenger door, but the handles didn't extend right away (I think my fob battery needs to be replaced). So I went to tap the handle, but just as I did the handles auto-extended. I must have tapped it at just the right moment to confuse it, because the handle I tapped extended to 100% instead of 90%, and I couldn't actually open the door. A few seconds later it retracted to 90% and then I could open it.

So they're not totally without their glitches, but I haven't seen anything egregious.

 

[Longhorn92]

I saw an interesting "new handle" firmware glitch the other day. I went to open the front passenger door, but the handles didn't extend right away (I think my fob battery needs to be replaced). So I went to tap the handle, but just as I did the handles auto-extended. I must have tapped it at just the right moment to confuse it, because the handle I tapped extended to 100% instead of 90%, and I couldn't actually open the door. A few seconds later it retracted to 90% and then I could open it.

So they're not totally without their glitches, but I haven't seen anything egregious.

Yes, I have the same 100% instead of 90% on the front passenger door from time-to-time as well. Not enough of a problem to take it in, but the next time I do go to the service center, I'll have them take a look.

 

[Doug_G]

Yes, I have the same 100% instead of 90% on the front passenger door from time-to-time as well. Not enough of a problem to take it in, but the next time I do go to the service center, I'll have them take a look.

Okay, so maybe that's just a random firmware glitch then. Maybe it only affects that particular door for some reason. Those sorts of things can be really frustrating to debug, because you can't make them happen while you're watching. Fortunately it's a really minor thing.

 

[Bugeater]

I had my first Gen 2 handle "quirk" this morning: I pulled on the back door handle to drop my briefcase in and the handle did nothing. Like all the new handles, it moved the 1/4 inch or so, but the door didn't unlatch. When I released the handle, it sprung immediately back in. It didn't "glide" in, it fell back into the door very quickly under the influence of what felt like a spring. The other handles remained extended. I did a lock/unlock cycle with the key fob and it worked normally. Weird.

I had something similar happen on my S. The door handle extended and I quickly pulled. Nothing happened. I let it go and it popped back to the normal extended position. When I pulled again, it was fine. I wrote it off as me being too quick. A common problem for me...

 

[loganss]

I had my first Gen 2 handle "quirk" this morning: I pulled on the back door handle to drop my briefcase in and the handle did nothing. Like all the new handles, it moved the 1/4 inch or so, but the door didn't unlatch. When I released the handle, it sprung immediately back in. It didn't "glide" in, it fell back into the door very quickly under the influence of what felt like a spring. The other handles remained extended. I did a lock/unlock cycle with the key fob and it worked normally. Weird.

This problem has been around for a while on several versions. You're to quick with the draw. I've discovered that you have to wait a second or two after the handle extends before you attempt to open the door otherwise you have to do the trick you mentioned. Happens to me all the time. For those wanting to test this out just press the fob button to lock the door, unlock the door, then immediately try and open the door as the handle is fully extended. Sometimes you can get the door to open but a bunch of times you'll get the behavior mknox experienced.

 

[mknox]

extended to 100% instead of 90%, and I couldn't actually open the door. A few seconds later it retracted to 90% and then I could open it.

I have seen that behavior as well. For me, it usually happens quickly... just as I'm about to grab the handle to open the door it will suck back in a bit. The first time it happened, I whipped my hand away in a big hurry, even though I later realized it wouldn't chop my fingers off :smile:

- - - Updated - - -

Every once in awhile I go back out to my car after work, the handles extend, I go to pull on them, and the door won't open. I wait 5-10 seconds, then they work.

Yep. That too.

When working normally, I also notice a slight delay between pulling the handle and the door unlatching. I am used to this because that is exactly how my Cadillac used to be... momentary delay between the handle pull and the door unlatching.

- - - Updated - - -

Yes, I have the same 100% instead of 90% on the front passenger door from time-to-time as well. Not enough of a problem to take it in, but the next time I do go to the service center, I'll have them take a look.

I'll have to pay closer attention, but it seems to me that my handles usually do a little dance of going to 100% then back to 90 each time they extend.

 

[teslasguy]

Had my car in for service yesterday and they replaced the 12V battery, again. first time was last winter.

 

[Bugeater]

Had my car in for service yesterday and they replaced the 12V battery, again. first time was last winter.

I must have been lucky with my 12V battery. I had warnings with my first FW update last Dec. But then no issues since. Especially none on my 5540 mile trip May - June! SC changed it in Sept.

 

[RoverS]

i must say i've been lucky. a 4,XXX vin and my only problems have been creaks/rattles. got the Pano roof fix and that's solved, though there are still various creaks around the cabin that i wish weren't there.

other than that, no battery, drivetrain, door handle, suspension, or anything else. THANKFUL. :love:

 

[Tacket]

i must say i've been lucky. a 4,XXX vin and my only problems have been creaks/rattles. got the Pano roof fix and that's solved, though there are still various creaks around the cabin that i wish weren't there.

other than that, no battery, drivetrain, door handle, suspension, or anything else. THANKFUL. :love:

Me too. I'm 13,XXX with lots of little creaks and rattles as well. Waiting for all of them to make their way to the surface and have service take care of them all at once. Of course, I haven't been able to replicate all of them, so who knows how many visits it'll take.

 

[cinergi]

Had my car in for service yesterday and they replaced the 12V battery, again. first time was last winter.

They're replacing all 12V batteries that aren't the new deep-cycle ones via a service bulletin. They just did mine. I didn't technically need a new battery but they want everyone to have the more reliable version.

 

[Silenus136]

Service message when charging

Having an unusual issue with my Model S vin 8,xxx. From time to time - maybe 1/10 times- when I am charging, it abruptly stops charging and I get the red exclamation point alert and the message is that the car needs service and I should pull over safely. Of course,I am parked and charging in my garage from a 14/50 outlet with the standard tesla charger or at my office which is 30A, I believe. If I unplug the charging cable and then plug it in again, the error message clears. Has anyone experienced this and have any info? Thanks in advance for assistance.

 

[Todd Burch]

Having an unusual issue with my Model S vin 8,xxx. From time to time - maybe 1/10 times- when I am charging, it abruptly stops charging and I get the red exclamation point alert and the message is that the car needs service and I should pull over safely. Of course,I am parked and charging in my garage from a 14/50 outlet with the standard tesla charger or at my office which is 30A, I believe. If I unplug the charging cable and then plug it in again, the error message clears. Has anyone experienced this and have any info? Thanks in advance for assistance.

I may be stating the obvious, but just call Tesla--they'll pull the logs of the error message and figure out the root cause.

 

[cwerdna]

^^^
And, Tesla will want to know the make and model of EVSE being used at work.

We've found in Leaf-land, that there were some EVSE compatibility problems (e.g. GE Wattstations seemed to be the culprit in blowing a diode in the on-board charger of some '11 and '12 Leafs and Eaton EVSE compat problems: My Nissan Leaf Forum View topic - 2013 S Not Charging at Some Stations).

 

[paco3791]

Coming up on 2500 miles of driving and I've come across a couple intermittent issues.

- First was the passenger side mirror for some reason about a week ago didn't want to adjust up and down, only left to right. Then magically after a road trip this weekend I tried it this morning to see if it was still having the problem before I called Service, and of course it's working perfectly again. Only thing I can think of is that during the last day of our trip yesterday my wife folded in that mirror in a tight parking place and then folded it back out once we got on the road, maybe that jarred something and got the mirror working again?

- Second while stopped picking up a few miles at a public charger on the road trip this weekend the car didn't want to recognize that the key fob was inside the car while I had a USB cord plugged into one of the ports in the center console. I was able to make this one a bit more repeatable as whenever the cord was plugged in (didn't have to be charging anything) the keyfob operation would get flaky. Opening the frunk wouldn't work or would take multiple attempts from different angles, or the car wouldn't "Turn On" until I put the key in the sweet spot under the 12V DC port in the center console for example. Once I unplugged the USB cord or as long as I plugged it in once the car was "ON" and the fob had already done it's job, everything worked as normal. Anyone else had this issue? I get HOW adding an antenna in that spot might interfere with the fob operation but I just hadn't seen this issue from anyone else.

 

[jerry33]

Often as not, rebooting the screens resolves issues like this (though I haven't had these particular ones). Hold the scroll wheels down until the T appears in the screen for the 17" and hold the top buttons down for the small display.

 

[paco3791]

Often as not, rebooting the screens resolves issues like this (though I haven't had these particular ones). Hold the scroll wheels down until the T appears in the screen for the 17" and hold the top buttons down for the small display.

First thing I tried, didn't help with the Fob recognition, may have helped with the mirror issue as the screen reboot happened about the same time as the mirror folding discussed above. Does the Center console CPU control the mirror positioning motors? I wouldn't have thought so...