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Model S window doesn't dip when opening door

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I have a Tesla Model S, where suddenly the window doesn't dip/lower when I open the door. It is both when I open the door from the outside and from the inside.

The window in general can go all the way down and up from the button inside the door. I can also use the "vent" option via the APP. So there is no issue with the actual window and the motor, it seems.

I've tried to reset the car, reboot it, and also tried the "hack" to reset the regulation of the window.

Is there anything else I can try and do? I'm going to drive 2000 kilometers on Sunday, going on vacation for a week, and suddenly this happens with the car, so I can't get it to service at Tesla before that.
 
I had to have my regulator replaced when I caught my hand in the window when the door closed. It had stretched out the safety springs. Tried all the resets and calibrations and the tech showed me the stretched springs when he replaced it.
 
Your "hack" to reset the window limits -- Was your driver's door open or closed? You must close the door and use the driver's control to rest the window limits by holding the button several seconds after it closes, and put the window down holding the button several seconds after it opens.
 
Thank you all for the answers. It is cold, but it has been parked in a basement, so not freezing at all. I normally use the Defrost car function for 15-30 minutes, if it is freezing. The vent function via the APP does work, yes. I did try the recalibration from inside of the car with the door closed.
I've seen many different tutorials on recalibrating the windows for a Tesla Model S, so not sure if I'm doing it correct. It feels like the root cause. Because also when taking the window down, it stops halfway and then I need to keep the button pressed to all the way down. It is only the driver seat window that act up like this.
 
This is the calibration of the windows that I know, see screenshot. What year is the car? Also it seems that you might have the broken cable issue between the car and door. To test this, being in the driver’s seat with open door does the window rises to the max if you trick the car by “door closed” status* - use a pen or screwdriver or similar object to close the latch on the side of the door. You basically simulate the door closing event with the tool. It should rise the window as it does if you close it. If the test is fine then you can carry on the window calibration.
You might ask why to test this? If the cabling is broken inside the corrugated rubber sleeve between the door and car, you can see the effect by changing the door position. There are several posts here about that similar situation. I had two cables broken, one was almost apart (12V) and one, that controlled the handle position was broken. It started to show very weird situations on everyday usage. Mine is from 2016.
* - the same is described in the de-calibration section

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