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Usually you need panel removal tools to get the clips and spigots released smoothly. The clips might also be metallic so probably need some more force. We can’t give any specific answers so you need to look there on your own. Here is how the motor is hidden, this is the drivers side. Lower...

Can we see comparing photos? Is it really yellow?

Yes, the car has the gray colour calipers as seen on that photo. No, I haven’t seen any with the red parking caliper over here. I think that one you have spotted is painted individually as it’s very similar to what I have seen if ever had calipers painted on my driveway.

There is a work around…

Have you seen this post?

Sunroof motor’s are not under that panel, they are below A pillar on both sides buried in the front dashboard. Your rattle might be from the sunroof rails and the guides that run on them. Better clean them up and re-lubricate to see if this helps.

It did worked back on monday, but I’m on MCU1

If you choose to upgrade, that upcoming new car of yours then search a bit of that not so bright side of the change. Here is one story.

This part seems to be pads only (for two calipers) as they list the spring and pin kit (1013298-00-A for single caliper) separately.

This is the photo from that post I linked, Tesla uses body control modules so you need to find that corresponding fuse.

It does not only happen in Hawaii, I had similar thing in Europe. Well, not that clean like yours but the frunk tub and all the items inside were misplaced. They did offered courtesy annual service for my trouble…

https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/model-3-rocker-panel-dent-repair.323498/

Well does it happen on any surface if “not that cold” outside, or only on very fine polished concrete surface? It’s usual that summer compound tyres feels slippery if temperatures lowers and mating surface meets the conditions.

Is it cold outside and you have summer tyres on? See here

Very nice effort to gather all information to one place. If it’s allowed then here is one little addition for Legacy S (was it on X as well?) rear separate parking calipers. Although they list the items also without pads, I was not able to get any. The part department said they have never seen...

There are several discussions here, you need to use the search function. First have a look here, if you find that the fuses are broken. But there might also be broken wire in between the door and the car. Tesla have had one door controller module per side (placed in front doors) on older cars...

You might want to make some search here in the forum to learn from mistakes before you actually use the chain’s…

There is quite lengthy discussion, with my addition here. It was also battery heater and I was stranded, needed to flatbed to service. Cost was around €900 with labor, of course with the €250 extra for the transportation service cost.

After you get that red light then get into the car and bring up the service menu (instructions here). You should see all recent and active alerts in the opened service section. When succeeded post the codes here.

The early edition car’s did not had parking sensors, the difference in the nose cone was only for the pre-stamped holes for the sensors. Also the ones your wife have found might not be for that section of your car. There are actually two type of the sensors mainly different in their connecting...

No, Tesla will only want to change that out. You better off with glueing it back yourself. Find good 3M double side tape to get it done. edit: here is good video about the details of the roof

Here is the instructions in writing:

You might be able to fetch that last invoice and compare that part number from this photo. Otherwise you need to get behind the front RH wheel to look at the sticker…

I think the car automatically change the brightness of the screens, there is this section in the Display menu. I also use the grey-scale maps although I have lifetime premium connectivity

And here some description as well…

For that item no.7 you have some options if you are DIY person. There is always that dilemma to have it done yourself or ask someone. These rear calipers can be serviced but Tesla is not willing to do this, they just remove and install new. Just as posting this noticed your model S is 2017, so...

No, it’s from a website that I once found here within the endless discussions. It worked a little time but then was withdrawn suddenly as if by someone’s order. Surprisingly I found it again, in the discussion here and it seems to work so far… This was the post that I found the last working one…...

Does the car have AP hardware? That code you have pointed is for the driver assistance system and it’s reporting a missing message.

Consider yourself been lucky. It was nice advise to plan that trip in Range mode and frankly very brave from you to attempt this! There was a reason from the service for not taking that long drive. Here are the code’s description where you can see the possibility to be halted in between if the...

As already directed there might be issue with the steering rack. If you have reached to the unit then worth to check if the wires have not been stripped at some section. Here are the explanations of the first section alerts, support’s what @Gtech and @brainhouston have suggested:

And now here are the photos, that dummy switch (on last photo) is really a good find that I saw here. You don’t need to buy a MB window switch from ebay:

Subzero weather package was not a thing on 2018 S any longer and Tesla discontinued sunroof at around November that year. I have a car without that weather package and it drives just fine even in -20°C.

See this post. @airborne spoon can give some answers.

Sorry, not the OP but that 12V note on the Tesla instructions is for granting positive outcome if for some reason the voltage will drop. Usually you do not connect your support charger to the 12V battery each time you allow the car to update? Here is another discussion about the same situation.

Well the tool have to be parallel to the steering shaft, you would like to insert it perpetual to the back of the wheel but it will not set in. If the nut head is actually T25 then usually T30 would not fit… Mine was hanging on the nut while I took the photo. Good luck.

Well mine is T30, 2016

Yes, they will fit as the newer cars have wider rims from factory. Your ‘13 OEM are 8” wide right? The new setup is 9,5” wide so they will be more towards the fender. Both rims have offset 40mm (exept if the new rims are 10,5” with offset 45). Your old rims will be a step inward and you might...

Tesla Autopilot uses all the sensors available (US sensor’s are in use with parking as well with summon) for Autosteer to work. If one of them has error then you can’t use the system. Quite annoying, but as noter earlier it will be restored with your next drive if no failure - meaning after...

Well the legacy S does not have the BT key so it does not affect the entry. But I thought this was because of my phone (non Apple or Android) that my have to follow specific steps to get it seen. I also lost the BT connectivity around the same time as OP but I have MCU1 and there has been no...

Well it’s 6mm laminated glass so it can stand some weight.

Your car might be in that download limbo if the internal memory of the MCU is full. I had this too, I got the recall done and during that fix Tesla had similar issues to upload new map update to the car. Eventually I had to bring the car to service twice to fix that. They made internal change...

I saw that tube end as well when I had a look under the sill and behind the side carpet section. I believe that is different than the roof rail draining tube. I think this is maybe for draining something inside, behind the dashboard. Windshield? You can test your roof rail draining by pouring...

So the drain tubes on your car are not attached like you see in this post?

I would also be curious as why it was so short time that it worked. I have heard (and did tested with non Tesla washer pumps) that if you can supply higher voltage to test the pump then it will become operational again. You have cordless tools at home, preferably higher than 12V batteries? Hook...

If you only need luggage storage and you accept to attach them on the roof then there is also easily attachable solutions. See this company.

You will notice that there are rubber surrounding seals so if you use something for the cleaning then also take extra care to not damage the rubber seals. You can restore the condition of the seals with dedicated products available for rubber and trim.

As already answered the warning was for possible window shattering and that chrome decal damage surrounding the windows. Haven’t see this yet but the handle (or door) should be fine if you cycle the opening-closing a few times to get the operation correct. What was the damaged on your door?

According to the photo on post #8 it’s original, manufactured on last month of that year.

This is actually very easy. Have the Service access on touchscreen active, it states the car has gateway LOCKED. Now hold your foot on the brake pedal and at the same time push and hold the indicator stalk up (as you usually hold it for right turn) at least ten seconds. And Voila, it’s now open...

The pump is connected to a body control module so if you suspect the fuse then you would not have rain sensing and fluid level info. Hope this section of the wiring will help.