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Model S Technical / Mechanical Issues
- Thread starter DrComputer
- Start date
Bugeater
Member
Also, many folks have had their key fobs replaced shortly after delivery. Maybe yours needs to be replaced...
Seems to be an EMI (Electromagnetic Interference), maybe you USB cord has a bad shielding. But if you doesn't connected something at the other side of the cord, it mean it's the Tesla which generate EMI through its USB port.
Can be a FOB problem but anyway I guess it means there is some EMI coming from the USB port
jackbowers
Jack Bowers
This weekend I had a main drive unit failure at 44k miles while I was on the way to the Seattle Supercharger event. Mine is a P85 Signature car that developed an ICE-like hum at speeds over 65 a few months after delivery (the hum sometimes sounds like it's coming from the front of the car, but it is definitely the drive unit). Over the last few weeks the hum was noticeable even at speeds below 30 mph. The last few hundred miles brought an occasional new sound like tools rattling in the back (which didn't alert me because on this trip I actually had some tools in the back of the car). The Tigard service center had me back on the road in just 28 hours (evidently the drive unit is a relatively easy thing to swap out), and the car is now whisper quiet at all speeds. They even got me upgraded to 5.6 - I love the new navigation system improvements.
Berkut
Member
Glad to hear that the repair was quick. What are these new improvements to navigation system with v5.6 firmware that you like so much?
S85 | Black | Dual Chargers + HPWC | Tech Pkg | Smart Air Suspension | Sub Zero
Reserved: 9/15, Confirmed 9/24, Signed 10/30, Delivery: 11/29 @ "High Noon"
By "failure", did it quit working or did it the noises become objectionable or to the point of scary/disconcerting? Or, was it just a point at which you figured you'd better get something done about it?
44K miles in quite a bit in such a short time. Is there a mileage record thread? I found 20,000 Miles but am not sure if there are others in 10K increments or just one for records.
This sounds like a mechanical gearbox or motor bearing failure. Did the SC say what the problem was?
jackbowers
Jack Bowers
I was driving on Northbound I-5 at freeway speeds with the cruise control on. I began getting some brief deceleration "lurches" that first made me think the traction control was reacting to something slippery on the road. But about 30 seconds later the dashed power limit line started flashing in snyc with the lurches. I hit the brake to slow down, but the cruise control didn't immediately disengage so I shifted into neutral. At that point I started getting "Pull Over Safely" and "Car Shutting Down" alerts, and the dashed power limit line moved to steady on at about the 2 kW level (just above zero). Knowing the Model S will coast a long way in neutral on level ground, I just rolled along for about a mile, not needing to turn on the emergency flashers until going up a small hill just before the exit. Even after getting off the freeway I still had plenty of momentum to go a few more blocks and find a tow-truck accessible parking spot.
The Tesla service center (Tigard) didn't try to isolate the cause of failure as their focus is getting you back on the road (only took 28 hours in my case). But since there were no new and unusual noises as the drama played out, I'm guessing that the mechanical problem responsible for the ICE-like hum got to the point where it overheated the control electronics, as symptoms seemed consistent with that of a CPU going "out to lunch."
What I like about the 5.6 navigation enhancements is the much faster refresh, zooming, and destination setting. Also, the map screen no longer disappears when you have no cell coverage (the new code must be doing some caching). And you can choose between direction of travel orientation, traditional north-at-top, or anything in between (like the iPhone you can now pinch rotate the map to any orientation you like). Even little things have been improved. It's easier to see the red, yellow and green traffic lines when a navigation course is locked in, and the Supercharger locations are now listed in order of closest first. I'm sure there are other enhancements; I just haven't stumbled onto them yet.
The Tesla service center (Tigard) didn't try to isolate the cause of failure as their focus is getting you back on the road (only took 28 hours in my case). But since there were no new and unusual noises as the drama played out, I'm guessing that the mechanical problem responsible for the ICE-like hum got to the point where it overheated the control electronics, as symptoms seemed consistent with that of a CPU going "out to lunch."
What I like about the 5.6 navigation enhancements is the much faster refresh, zooming, and destination setting. Also, the map screen no longer disappears when you have no cell coverage (the new code must be doing some caching). And you can choose between direction of travel orientation, traditional north-at-top, or anything in between (like the iPhone you can now pinch rotate the map to any orientation you like). Even little things have been improved. It's easier to see the red, yellow and green traffic lines when a navigation course is locked in, and the Supercharger locations are now listed in order of closest first. I'm sure there are other enhancements; I just haven't stumbled onto them yet.
Eggplant
Member
This isn't actually new. It did this in 4.5 too. Visited chargers are also sorted by distance. Though, it appears to be straight line distance. I guess routing each one is asking too much.
Bugeater
Member
My S did a similar thing last May! We were driving through Kansas. It was quite hot and had been driving for quite a while when the car shifted into neutral by itself. It said it had 26 miles left, but no matter what we did it wouldn't budge. We ended up being towed the last 3.3 miles to our slightly uphill destination. An RV park. After it was charged all was OK again for the rest of our trip!
paco3791
TMC OG
Took my car into the service center yesterday to have a windshield wiper rattle looked at. Got to drive a P85+ for the day :smile:. Turned out the "weld mount" to which the wiper motor is mounted was loose and would clatter every time the wipers were turned on. Working perfectly now. Also during the courtesy inspection the techs found a pair of stress fractures in the pair of clear lenses mounted in the long, "TESLA" Branded, silver, applique that sits on the rear hatch above the handle. Both lenses, which are surrounded by this piece of trim but sit in amongst the rear tail lights, had a stress fracture that hadn't yet traveled from the bottom to the top of that piece of plastic. I hadn't even noticed these, but they replaced that whole long silver piece of trim under warranty. All in all, great service experience.
I finally found the "whazzup with the window buttons" thread - right here - because for me, since Day 1 this has been an ongoing problem: several times on EVERY trip my wife will turn and ask me oh so nicely please to stop rolling her window down.
I find it funny that we owners appear to have some physiognomical dichotomy: some of us constantly are depressing the window buttons (I get the right rear as well as the front window), while others are utterly unable to do so even by trying.
I find it funny that we owners appear to have some physiognomical dichotomy: some of us constantly are depressing the window buttons (I get the right rear as well as the front window), while others are utterly unable to do so even by trying.
fluxemag
Member
New issue this morning after 5.8 update last night. My left turn signal no longer shows the green blinking arrow on the display, and it flashes at twice the speed of the right arrow, which is acting normally.
Are all the turn signals actually blinking? This happens on some cars when a turn signal light burns out.
bareyb
Active Member
Yep. Sounds like you have a burned out bulb. That's exactly what my Lexus would do.
teslasguy
MSP P#1117
I installed 5.8 last night and today my rear passenger door handle no longer works.
SC said to bring it in next week and that it might be related to the release.
SC said to bring it in next week and that it might be related to the release.
huntjo
Member
Might be as simple a resetting a fuse. I looked in the owners manual for the little fuse box diagram and pulled and replaced the fuse titled "door handle- right".
(You may want to reset the left).
Side note: I had to reprogram the auto tilt mirror on the ipsilateral side as apparently the fuse is related to mirror movement as well
