Ludicrous Roadster Parts Pricing

[ML Auto]

They have a lot to learn before they release the Model 3.

 

[ecarfan]

I heard a rumor that Tesla Motors has too many Roadster parts in stock. But for some reason they've decided to charge triple for everything that sells (lowering the number of parts that will sell), rather than lowering the price as much as possible to sell more of the inventory.

Source of that rumor?

I am skeptical there is any truth to that.

 

[strider]

I agree with ecarfan. I think Tesla is rapidly running out of Roadster parts. I got a new rear trunk lid a year or so back and it looks terrible - tons of CF lay-up problems on the bottom. Tesla said that was the best one they had left. Pickings are getting slim.

 

[rudholm]

Speaking of part pricing - other than tires - I just paid US$53 for one knob on the temperature / fan dash panel. Someone tried to turn one of the knobs further than it would go, and the plastic inside cracked. I thought I'd buy two of them so I'd have a spare in case another one breaks, but at these ludicrous prices I'm going to be super-gluing the old one to see if I can fix it.

I heard a rumor that Tesla Motors has too many Roadster parts in stock. But for some reason they've decided to charge triple for everything that sells (lowering the number of parts that will sell), rather than lowering the price as much as possible to sell more of the inventory. As dpeilow said, Tesla is losing business every time they quote these super-inflated prices.

US$53 for those plastic knobs is *insane*. Especially considering that they're utter garbage quality. The knobs in my 2.0 are designed to be backlit, but they're not backlit, so you can't see the position indicating mark. Turning these flimsy knobs against the stops is what breaks them, but you have to turn them to the stops to figure out what position they're in since you can't see the tick mark.

Fortunately, the actual switches feel quite solid and any standard quarter-inch potentiometer knob will fit on the stalks. I just ordered three very nice CNC'd aluminum ones that are black anodized and have a very visible white position marking. They were US$9 each on Amazon.com.

 

[MileHighMotoring]

Fortunately, the actual switches feel quite solid and any standard quarter-inch potentiometer knob will fit on the stalks. I just ordered three very nice CNC'd aluminum ones that are black anodized and have a very visible white position marking. They were US$9 each on Amazon.com.

Have a link? I'd like to change out the knobs too.

 

[rudholm]

Have a link? I'd like to change out the knobs too.

Sure, these are the ones I ordered: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KHSQF22/

They come in colors if you want to get flashy. I selected these because they appear to be solid machined aluminum, are the same diameter as the base of the original ones (1 inch), but since they're straight cylindrical rather than hat shaped, you actually have more diameter to work with on the part you actually grab, which should make turning them easier and require less pinching effort, making them much nicer to use and making it easier to feel the turning stops. The white location marking should be easily visible against the black background.

If you search Amazon (or Digi-Key or Mouser, et al) for "aluminum potentiometer knob" you'll find countless choices. You're looking for any 1 inch / 25mm knob for a standard 0.25" / 6mm shaft. You could go with smaller than 1" diameter if you prefer the look, of course.

I'll follow up this post once the knobs arrive and I put them on. Perhaps with a picture or two as well.

 

[adiggs]

I'm eager to see what the new knobs look like. I've had 2 of the knobs get replaced under warranty after I put my foot down and had them fall off. Or as I prefer to think of it - I took off and left the knobs behind

Worthless things - the knobs you have linked look really nice. If they continue looking nice and work well in the car, I think I'm going to be in for a set.

 

[MileHighMotoring]

Yes, thanks! Please post a few pictures when they arrive.

 

[slcasner]

I broke one of the knob on my 1.5 years ago when it was new. I fixed the weakness of the part of the knob that fits over the shaft by filling the hollow inside of the knob with epoxy.

 

[rudholm]

OK, so I kinda goofed. I failed to notice that the flat part of the shafts is on the side where the arrow on the knob should be. I just assumed it was on the opposite side (which is typical). So my arrows are pointing 180 degrees in the wrong direction. Not too big of a deal, but I will probably see if I can find similar knobs with arrows in the right direction. Also, these knobs are machined for a 6mm shaft, which is slightly smaller than a 0.25" shaft, so I had to drill them out a little but that was no problem.

But, I think these knobs look way better/cleaner than the busy plastic OEM knobs.

 

[sethr]

I agree with ecarfan. I think Tesla is rapidly running out of Roadster parts.

I just got my Roadster back (almost a month, BTW). I had fault 287; it needed a new 400 V controller. Well, apparently this may be the last one - they got it from Italy. The service guy said as far as he knew there are no more. Happily I only paid $200 (deductible) instead of $1560, as I'm still under my ESA. But what happens to the next person?

 

[ion_1]

I just got my Roadster back (almost a month, BTW). I had fault 287; it needed a new 400 V controller. Well, apparently this may be the last one - they got it from Italy. The service guy said as far as he knew there are no more. Happily I only paid $200 (deductible) instead of $1560, as I'm still under my ESA. But what happens to the next person?

worrisome... but you got lucky!

I can't seem to find where you posted the issue, what was the story with your 400V, was this water related or completely random?

 

[sethr]

It was water related: I had given my Roadster a wash during a period of high humidity. Curiously, it faulted two days after the wash. They said the seal was deteriorated, and apparently could not simply replace the seal. Personally, I suspect that some silicone glue could be a solution, which I suggested that when they hadn't yet found the controller. I guess the next person might try that....

 

[ion_1]

thanks, It seems we have a number of occurrences on the forum which point to water ingress into the 400V. It would be great to ID which seal (I believe there are the two large gaskets related to the end covers + all the wire ingress seals.) Once we ID which, i agree it should be straight forward to improve protection.

 

[rudholm]

OK, I think I found nearly perfect replacement HVAC knobs. These are wedge shaped, so you can feel what position they're in without looking away from the road. HD-90-4-5 Kilo International | Hardware, Fasteners, Accessories | DigiKey These are matte black, they also come in gloss black and aluminum finishes. I figured matte black would match the interior and provide maximum contrast for the white indicator marking. These have two set screws, neither of which is going to be on the flat part of the shaft, so you'll have to align the white indicator line by hand before you tighten the set screws, but that's not too difficult. Also, when you install them, don't press them all the way against the backing. If you do, they'll rub against it when you turn them and it will annoy you, so push them all the way on, then back them off ever so slightly before you tighten the set screws.

If anyone wants a low-mileage OEM 2.0 HVAC knob, PM me. I've got two of them. US$10 each plus postage.

 

[m0rph]

I just got my Roadster back (almost a month, BTW). I had fault 287; it needed a new 400 V controller. Well, apparently this may be the last one - they got it from Italy. The service guy said as far as he knew there are no more. Happily I only paid $200 (deductible) instead of $1560, as I'm still under my ESA. But what happens to the next person?

In June 2016 I was told I received the very last motor available on the planet..

 

[DeedWest]

It was water related: I had given my Roadster a wash during a period of high humidity. Curiously, it faulted two days after the wash. They said the seal was deteriorated, and apparently could not simply replace the seal. Personally, I suspect that some silicone glue could be a solution, which I suggested that when they hadn't yet found the controller. I guess the next person might try that....

I had a feeling it was your 400V, after a similar thing happening to me on my previous 2.5 Sport. They had to ship mine from Canada, where they mentioned seeing about 4 left in inventory at the time (last September). Glad they found you one, and even better than you’re under an ESA, which may be equally as rare as the 400V controllers themselves.

 

[tvuolo]

But, I think these knobs look way better/cleaner than the busy plastic OEM knobs.

I got similar knobs in silver aluminum from Radio Shack a few years ago. Unfortunately, I do not have the part number. They fit the .25" and are about 1" in diameter. I wish they were slightly smaller, but they are very solid.