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Charging outlet

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Right.
The electrician proposed a new BC. That *will* require GFI if a receptacle is placed
The "6-20" receptacle in the garage was reported to not have a ground wire. Bad idea all around, and I don't even know if a a Tesla EVSE would work.
Yes anything you do is going to require grounding. I was under the impression a new circuit was being installed.

If it were me, and did less that 40 miles of driving per day average I would just use the MC with a standard 120v outlet. Worst case times where you have to drive more use the supercharger.

I would save that money for the new place and getting a good, permanent, safe, and reliable charging setup installed there.

Of course it's up to the OP.
 
UPDATE: I decided to get the Wall Connector installed and was able to get a electrician to quote me with the soonest availability. So getting it installed this weekend.

Scope of work quoted as per:
The electrician recommended (also a tesla MY owner) 60A 240v dedicated circuit running 2x #6AWG and 1x 8AWG line with a safety cut off switch by the Wall connector incase a kid picks up the handle.

Thank you all for your help and feedback you provided to help me decide.
 
The electrician recommended (also a tesla MY owner) 60A 240v dedicated circuit running 2x #6AWG and 1x 8AWG line with a safety cut off switch by the
I assume this will be THW or THWN wire in a conduit, which will be fine. If it will be Romex, that will not support a 60A circuit. Also, you do not need a cut-off switch; it is not required by code (unless Chicago is weird) as the breaker does that job nicely.

I get the bit about the kids, but you should really not be turning the wall connector on and off like that. Just ensure the cable is out of reach. Not sure they could get there little fingers in their anyway.
 
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UPDATE: I decided to get the Wall Connector installed and was able to get a electrician to quote me with the soonest availability. So getting it installed this weekend.

Scope of work quoted as per:
The electrician recommended (also a tesla MY owner) 60A 240v dedicated circuit running 2x #6AWG and 1x 8AWG line with a safety cut off switch by the Wall connector incase a kid picks up the handle.

Thank you all for your help and feedback you provided to help me decide.
The plug on the wall connector is absolutely NOT energized when not plugged into the car. You could poke at the plug with a paper clip all day and not get a shock. If I had a kindergartener plug my car in, the only worry I would have is them scratching my paint.
 
I assume this will be THW or THWN wire in a conduit, which will be fine. If it will be Romex, that will not support a 60A circuit. Also, you do not need a cut-off switch; it is not required by code (unless Chicago is weird) as the breaker does that job nicely.

I get the bit about the kids, but you should really not be turning the wall connector on and off like that. Just ensure the cable is out of reach. Not sure they could get there little fingers in their anyway.
I would have to confirm with the electrician, he said the wire would be outdoor weather grade in the conduit. as for the the wall connector cut off switch, it's more of a safety for kids. I have a toddler, that like to touch things within reach in garage and since the handle is only held onto the wall charger by just a small cut off it can easily be pulled if you pull on the cable, specially when the weather is nice and we are out in garage mostly.
 
I would have to confirm with the electrician, he said the wire would be outdoor weather grade in the conduit

Sounds like you should be good. The backstory here is that too many people, and electricians, use NM-B wire which is rated at 55-Amps thinking this will be OK since the wall connector’s maximum charge rate is 48-Amp. Without going into detail, if the wall connector is set to a 60-amp circuit the wire must be rated a 60-amps.
 
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The plug on the wall connector is absolutely NOT energized when not plugged into the car. You could poke at the plug with a paper clip all day and not get a shock. If I had a kindergartener plug my car in, the only worry I would have is them scratching my paint.
Not sure if the Gen 3 is different. Here is what's listed on the owner's manual.
1676405217942.png
 
Did not know that. is that the same for the Mobile charger connector?
Yes. It applies to all EV charging connectors. Safe even for drunk idiots plugging their cars in during a pouring rain. Public charging stations couldn't exist if there was any danger of someone electrocuting themselves just by touching it.

Not sure if the Gen 3 is different. Here is what's listed on the owner's manual.
View attachment 907211
Sure, one wouldn't do it on purpose, but there's really no shock hazard. I know exactly how it works, and that there's no danger, but if I had to poke around inside the handle, I'd still kill the power.
 
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Yes. It applies to all EV charging connectors. Safe even for drunk idiots plugging their cars in during a pouring rain. Public charging stations couldn't exist if there was any danger of someone electrocuting themselves just by touching it.


Sure, one wouldn't do it on purpose, but there's really no shock hazard. I know exactly how it works, and that there's no danger, but if I had to poke around inside the handle, I'd still kill the power.
ok thanks!
 
Would having a disconnect switch that kills the power to the wall connector a bad thing for the wall connector? If I kill the power to the wall connector after charging (daily) would that negatively impact the life of wall connector or any other impact?
 
Would having a disconnect switch that kills the power to the wall connector a bad thing for the wall connector? If I kill the power to the wall connector after charging (daily) would that negatively impact the life of wall connector or any other impact?

You should avoid killing the power while the car is actually charging (unplug first). It will be stressful to whatever cutoff switch is used.

The only downside I can think of is that it wouldn't be online all the time, and you might miss a software update. Not that there have been many (any?) to miss.
 
You should avoid killing the power while the car is actually charging (unplug first). It will be stressful to whatever cutoff switch is used.

The only downside I can think of is that it wouldn't be online all the time, and you might miss a software update. Not that there have been many (any?) to miss.
Power to the wall connector at the time of charge only. Once the charging cable is removed from the car, and the wire back in the wall connector. Kill the power. That is what I had planned. As for the software updates, would I get notification on my app, just like the car does when there is an upgrade available?
 
The entire point, and the only thing the wall connector does is turn it's power on and off to the handle only after the car is plugged in. That's all it does.
Okay so it also tells the car it's capacity so it doesn't overpower the components but yes, 100%, there's no power to the connector until it's plugged in and lit up.
 
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Just adding to the, "No, it (very likely) won't kill you" shark frenzy.

First: Every Single Blinking EV Connector of whatever flavor, standard, and type is very thoroughly designed Not To Have Live Electricity On It until:
  1. The cable is plugged all the way into the car.
  2. The computer inside the car and the computer in the Wall Connector or equivalent have Checked Everything that says that the cable is all the way in.
So, we're talking wires with computer protocols running on them. And said wires with protocols are designed Not To Make Contact until the connector is all the way in.

Just so we're clear on this: It's not just Tesla connectors at home: Superchargers, which run considerably higher voltages (from whatever vendor - Tesla, CCS, CHADEMO, etc.) have got these safety protocols on steroids.

I happen to have a Gen 2 Tesla Wall Connector in the house and I had the joy and delight of watching the electricians put the thing into service. Y'know what's in the heart of that box? An honest-to-golly Contactor, just like the big honking relay (that's what a contactor is) that's in your HVAC system. Power has to go through that energized contactor in order to get to the car, and you can bet your bottom dollar that said contactor is fail-safe: No drive, no contactor making contact. When I plug in the car, nothing starts happening until the contactor goes, "Clunk!". And doing anything, like removing that cable, results in the contactor going, "Click!" in the opposite direction.

Now, let's get real. The actual contacting surfaces inside the Tesla (which are also very thoroughly depowered and disconnected when a cable isn't in there) and on the cable itself appear to be silver plated. For good reason: Silver's the Connector Metal of Choice when it comes to low resistance. But, if you want scratch-resistance, you want something hard, like steel. But steel doesn't conduct so well. So, alloys. And mechanical design. I (obviously) wasn't involved in any way with Tesla cable design, but I know how this goes: A thick layer of silver is plonged onto the contacts and the designers expect that the silver's going to get shoved around. The wiping action is likely designed to redistribute the silver as time moveth on, and the thickness, number of layers of different metals, and all that are designed right in there. I'm not one of those types of connector engineers, but I've been exposed to that kind of thinking in my daily work.

Does this mean that one can grab a steel bristle brush and go cleaning? Absolutely, positively not. Gentle cloths and cleaning materials, please. Poking a steel paper clip in there: Not a good idea, for longevity, anyway.

Second: I've worked, at times, as a reliability engineer. Conclusion: Given a big enough population of parts, be they resistors, ICs, Piston Rods, Crankshafts, connectors, relays, electrical breakers, light bulbs, you name it: Everything is going to have a failure eventually. Nothing lasts forever, and that's double for moving parts. Remember that contactor I mentioned, before? Remember that I said that a Tesla disconnects power from from the socket in there? What happens if something fails?

Things fail short. Things fail open. Springs fatigue and break. Insects get into things. Yeah, the physical design of all these high voltage, high-current connectors are rigged so that the plastic overlaps the heck out of the conducting surfaces. But, sure and begorrah, if you got a couple million ignorant kindergardeners and/or toddlers playing every day with the cable end, sooner or later one of them is going to get zapped. This is why we don't let kids play in busy streets, mess around in open circuit breaker panels, or pump gas. Adults know better than to play the odds for no good reason and what, "Danger!" means. Kids.. not so much.

I still think that putting an extra safety switch in is a waste of time and money. It's a very low (but not zero) probability that it might be useful.
 
Sounds like you should be good. The backstory here is that too many people, and electricians, use NM-B wire which is rated at 55-Amps thinking this will be OK since the wall connector’s maximum charge rate is 48-Amp. Without going into detail, if the wall connector is set to a 60-amp circuit the wire must be rated a 60-amps.
Yeah and there is a lot of confusion over this. Problem is that #4 NM-B Romex is not readily available and it's quite a bit more expensive.

#6 NM-B is supposed to be rated for 90C but the NEC wants it derated to 60C for ampacity. As far as the circuit many electricians will argue the next size up rule will allow you to protect it with a 60 amp breaker.

Have the work permitted and inspected by your county permitting office.
 
electricians will argue the next size up rule will allow you to protect it with a 60 amp breaker.
Run away from any electrician who says this as they do not know what they are talking about! There are specific rules when the round up rule is used. One important one is the appliance on the other end will never draw more than 55-amps. Setting the wall connector to a 60-amp circuit violates this rule.
 
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