Search results

Post in thread '16A Restriction in Private Household? (Europe)' 16A Restriction in Private Household? (Europe) So there's either some way that they get to use at least two of the modules at once, or the charger really is different.

I don't think that's been true for some time. At least not with a Tesla wall connector.

Of course, if the jumper pack is inside the car, then you can't use it to open the frunk. Some people store a small 9v battery behind that cover to use to open the frunk, then keep the jumper pack in the frunk so they can then jump the car.

I had a similar problem crop up a few weeks ago. I had a few instances where the mobile connector my wife uses would show red lights. Unplugging it and plugging it back in would fix the problem. A week or so later, the AFCI breaker for the plugs in one of the bedrooms tripped. When I went to...

Sounds like a reasonable interim, or even permanent, solution. I just wanted to point out that you don't have to upgrade to 60a to install a wall connector, a lot of people here just like to max everything out. It can be set for the 30a circuit you have now, if you like.

My undertanding is that the charger itself is the same unit in NA and the EU. In EU cars, three phase charging is done by connecting each of the three phases one of the three modules in the charger. This is one of the reasons why our NA chargers even HAVE three modules in them instead of just...

As you know, anything, no matter how sturdy will last longer if NOT exposed to the elements. The Wall Connector is designed to be outdoors and will last, however, it will probably last longer if not outdoors. My take on it is that I'd rather face replacing the WC a little sooner rather than...

I'm confident that the newer M3 SR+ with the heat pump won't save enough energy to give you more range than the LR, even in very cold weather. It really doesn't matter to the battery whether you charge every three days, or every day, although if in order to make it three days, you are charging...

On the billing question, there have been a bunch of ways that people have dealt with that: The easiest is if you can wire the EVSE into your own unit's metered electric service. Then you pay for it on your regular electric bill, no fuss. There are several approaches to doing this depending on...

That might work (and it might not if they insist on GFCI because it's in a garage), but lying on your permit application and to the inspector is hardly a recommended practice.

You're confusing the thread by mixing issues with old Tesla wall connectors (what the thread is about) and old Nissan EVSEs. You answered @Rocky_H 's comment about Tesla EVSEs with Nissan info. We should probably just drop the Nissan talk.

Well, I happen to know what the problem is here. The control pilot is the signal that tells the car what the max amperage the EVSE can deliver is. It is supposed to be a square wave at 1kHz between -12v and 12v. The early Nissan EVSEs (and a few others) didn't bother with the negative swing and...

After seeing the picture of the OP's panel, I understand exactly where he's coming from. However, unless he's simply going to ignore permitting, he still needs to deal with the GFCI issue. I see two ways to deal with that. 1. Switch to a wall connector (at 30a), then he doesn't need one. 2...

My favorite is "award winning". Sure, probably awarded by the same local rag or website you advertise in every day.

Glad you hear you came to an outcome you can live with. In the end, the whole mess still seems to be Tesla's fault. By not branding the title when they totaled it, or reporting it to CarFax, etc.., they opened the door for the dealer to either unknowingly sell it as a clean car with warranty, or...

What exactly happens when you plug in? Have you seen this wall connector charge any car?

Oh, why-oh why-oh....

You should look at what amps or kW the car is reporting. Since a Model 3 RWD can't charge at over 32a, I find it likely that the current measurement is off in the EVSE, reporting a higher current draw than actual. which is a pretty harmless error. If the car is reporting the correct 32a, then...

You can run them all in black if you like. It can save a lot of money to buy just one large spool/package of black instead of smaller lengths of different colors. Just mark the neutral white and the ground green at both ends as noted above. You can mark one of the hots red if you like, but it's...

It worth noting that the car doesn't need a retrofit, but if you want to use CCS stations, you will have to buy the adapter.

Every single one has it. It's the latch button. It does double duty, not only working the latch, but signaling the car that the button is pressed so it stops charging. In the case of a Tesla, that also unlocks the charge port so the adapter can be removed.

Exactly. Now the car does have to be awake and unlocked, but having the phone (as key) in your pocket when you do it is usually sufficient. If for any reason it doesn't work, try opening a door first.

If you have access to another car, you could probably install your LV battery in it temporarily and charge it that way. It's very unlikely that your LV battery is in ill health, it just needs a charge. Another thought is that the service center is likely to have a way to charge one. They might...

Actually it has nothing to do with the size of the battery, it has to do with the efficiency of the vehicle. The MYP uses more energy to go the same distance (because it's bigger and heavier), so the charging rate expressed in mph is less.

The main reason it usually makes little difference is because at the first charging stop, it takes maybe 5 minutes less to reach the charge level you need to reach the next stop and then the rest of the trip goes exactly how it would have anyway. While it's true that arriving with a lower...

Look in the plug to see if there's an obstruction of some kind there. Maybe something bent? If it's that bad, I'd probably have service look at it.

Unfortunately, I don't believe there is a course of action. They can't prove it failed in warranty, so they can't force Tesla to cover it. It's ridiculous that the car doesn't report the problem when it occurs, and it's worse that the service center doesn't report the problem if you bring the...

In the case of ChargePoint (and many others), you can do a pay as you go plan. You can also usually pay at the station without making an account at all. If you log in and change it to pay as you go, it will use up the balance you have, then only charge you when you charge. That said, I've still...

At least he's checking. A lot of inspectors will just make a pronouncement and you're stuck. Definitely get Chargepoint involved. If anyone at the inspector's office has to be convinced, a major equipment supplier is much more likely to have the expertise and gravitas to do the convincing.

Absolutely nothing wrong with it, at all. However, I will say that it is also not necessarily as useful as we tend to think. If you're going to have to stop to charge on your way to the destination, anyway, then that extra 10-20% at the beginning probably isn't going to make a significant...

I have to say my Rav4 EV was VERY fun to drive. No matter that it didn't take corners particularly well and was FWD. When you put it in sport mode, it was almost too powerful for an SUV. If I had been certain of being able to keep it running without facing huge repair bills, I'd have kept it...

Looks like a good candidate to clean up, test, then keep as a backup. Could help you over a stretch while you replace one in the future.

Whether in the car or the app, you'll see two numbers like this: 48/48a. The first number is the current charge rate, and the second is the maximum rate available from the EVSE at this time. It is only valid while the car is actually plugged in and charging. When your charge goes down to 24a...

Weird that you chose the exact same title... https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/new-240v-outlet-pulling-0-amps.323094/

Thanks for that! I tried swiping a few times but the app just swiped over to my other vehicle, so I thought that I couldn't dismiss it. Now that I knew it was supposed to work, I tried harder and finally got it to swipe away.

Good catch! Yes, drywalling over the junction box is a big problem. A future electrician will be scratching their heads when they can't see where the wire changes size. Also, if one of those connections goes bad, no one can inspect them to figure out the problem. Finally if the drywall is...

Well, some people are determined to have the latest gizmo. Also, pushing on the charge door can get a little finicky if the car has been asleep, sometimes requiring opening a door to get the car awake. Using the button on the Tesla plug works better for waking the car and getting the charge door...

The remote open signal is actually much simply than you describe. It's similar to an RF TV remote. The signal doesn't have any security features to it, it simply emits a signal that any car in range will interpret as "open my charge door". That way, any Tesla plug can open the charge door. The...

No, the battery isn't particularly different. Once the ECU (with the help of the BMS) negotiates with a DC charger to begin charging, it is connected directly to the battery. The BMS monitors things, and can open the contactors if it needs to, but there is a direct connection to the battery, and...

Any time you plug into equipment, you take a risk that it might damage your car. Any damage done by something outside the car has the potential not to be covered. For example, if you fill your gas car with bad gas and that ruins your engine, it won't be covered under warranty. If a Tesla wall...

My 2019 M3 complained about the battery a few months before my warranty was to run out. Tesla came out and replaced it free of charge.

I find that for day trips or any destination where I don't expect to be able to charge, it pays to program your round trip or add on the next destination, when navigating. That way the nav will plan to leave you with enough charge at your destination so that you can make to the next charging...

Were your changes showing in the interface, but the car didn't start charging, or did your changes not save? I have had instances where changes in the app did not successfully save, I assume because of connectivity issues. The app should let you know that they didn't save, and should definitely...

I thought about doing that myself, actually. Trouble is that I'm a embedded software guy. While I'm good with schematics from a "Let me write the software to make this work" and "let's probe here to see if the bits are getting through at the right data rate" point of view, I'm not quite enough...

Color me skeptical that this device has any quality to it. I'd love to see a teardown by someone knowledgeable.

If you had opted to do an outlet, you would have needed the GFCI breaker. You could have left it and it would have been fine, but changing it was OK with a wall connector. Nice call on the 5-20. It could serve as an emergency charging back up if you have a mobile connector. The 2 AWG could come...

It may be possible that in a particular state or country, they could be forced to give some kind of minimum warranty. Indeed, a replacement that failed in a week would look so bad, that I expect that even Tesla would know they had to cover it or face holy hell in the press...of course, if any...

Not even that is necessary. There's no need to differentiate the two hots from each other. When my electrician ran my 14-50, he used three black wires and one green, and just marked the neutral with white at each end. I assume it was easier to have just one spool of black wire on the truck...

I understand that it SHOULD have a 30a breaker, but you see this kind of thing all the time. Especially 6-50 and 14-50 outlets with 30a breakers, as welders often have those plugs on them, but have a nameplate rating of 30a. If I were the OP, assuming that the panel has the capacity, I'd do one...

https://electrek.co/2024/03/14/tesla-offering-lfp-battery-retrofits-earlier-model-3-under-warranty/