Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Recently installed Nema 14-50 at home. Only charging 5 amps on 240v. How do i make it charge more?

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
So to give more context.

I recently purchased a used 2020 model 3.

I been using my standard outlet (120v 15amp. It charges at 12 amps and is slow.

Recently I purchased 10-3 wire and a 30 amps breaker and a Nema 14-50 outlet and a new mobile charger. After installed the car registers the 240v but limits me to 5amps only.

I went into the charging section amd it says it has a max of 5 amps.

However when I install the previous 110v set up it goes right up to 12 amps.

I checked the plug.... wires and breaker all are correct.

My question is what am I doing wrong ? Why can't I charge above 5 amps with a 10-3 wire, 240v 30amp breaker?
 
Recently I purchased 10-3 wire and a 30 amps breaker
OK, sounds fine so far.
and a Nema 14-50 outlet
What the hell?!
I checked the plug.... wires and breaker all are correct.
No, they are certainly NOT correct.
My question is what am I doing wrong ?
Using a 50 amp outlet type on a 30 amp circuit.

Get a 14-30 outlet and buy the Tesla 14-30 plug for the mobile connector.

Why can't I charge above 5 amps with a 10-3 wire, 240v 30amp breaker?
By using the wrong outlet type, with a wrong plug type on the mobile connector, you are telling it that it is a 50 amp circuit. The mobile connector is going to try to draw its maximum power, which is 32A. You are overdrawing the 30A circuit. That is making something very hot. The breaker should trip after some time, but it's probably the temperature sensor in the mobile connector plug head that is fortunately cutting the power way down thankfully before you started something on fire.

I am trying to be kind and gentle and all that because first time poster asks a question, but man, this is dangerous.
 
Upvote 0
OK, sounds fine so far.

What the hell?!

No, they are certainly NOT correct.

Using a 50 amp outlet type on a 30 amp circuit.

Get a 14-30 outlet and buy the Tesla 14-30 plug for the mobile connector.


By using the wrong outlet type, with a wrong plug type on the mobile connector, you are telling it that it is a 50 amp circuit. The mobile connector is going to try to draw its maximum power, which is 32A. You are overdrawing the 30A circuit. That is making something very hot. The breaker should trip after some time, but it's probably the temperature sensor in the mobile connector plug head that is fortunately cutting the power way down thankfully before you started something on fire.

I am trying to be kind and gentle and all that because first time poster asks a question, but man, this is dangerous.
Thank you! I'm not implying in anyway that I know what I'm doing. Infact finding any info is extremely challenging for me. Coming across this forum and club was a struck of luck.

But regardless I'm incredibly thankful for your response and timing. I appreciate the detailed info and solution. I will order the parts and not hook that up again until it is corrected.

Any other words of wisdom are always welcome 🙏
 
  • Like
Reactions: GSP and Rocky_H
Upvote 0
So to give more context.

I recently purchased a used 2020 model 3.

I been using my standard outlet (120v 15amp. It charges at 12 amps and is slow.

Recently I purchased 10-3 wire and a 30 amps breaker and a Nema 14-50 outlet and a new mobile charger. After installed the car registers the 240v but limits me to 5amps only.

I went into the charging section amd it says it has a max of 5 amps.

However when I install the previous 110v set up it goes right up to 12 amps.

I checked the plug.... wires and breaker all are correct.

My question is what am I doing wrong ? Why can't I charge above 5 amps with a 10-3 wire, 240v 30amp breaker?
You need an electrician, like NOW to straighten this out.
 
Upvote 0
Thank you! I'm not implying in anyway that I know what I'm doing. Infact finding any info is extremely challenging for me. Coming across this forum and club was a struck of luck.

But regardless I'm incredibly thankful for your response and timing. I appreciate the detailed info and solution. I will order the parts and not hook that up again until it is corrected.

Any other words of wisdom are always welcome 🙏

OK, sounds fine so far.

What the hell?!

No, they are certainly NOT correct.

Using a 50 amp outlet type on a 30 amp circuit.

Get a 14-30 outlet and buy the Tesla 14-30 plug for the mobile connector.


By using the wrong outlet type, with a wrong plug type on the mobile connector, you are telling it that it is a 50 amp circuit. The mobile connector is going to try to draw its maximum power, which is 32A. You are overdrawing the 30A circuit. That is making something very hot. The breaker should trip after some time, but it's probably the temperature sensor in the mobile connector plug head that is fortunately cutting the power way down thankfully before you started something on fire.

I am trying to be kind and gentle and all that because first time poster asks a question, but

OK, cool. Yeah, you should be able to match up the amp level on the breaker, the appropriate wire type, thickness, etc., and the outlet type. The 30 at the end of "14-30" means it is for a 30 amp circuit.
I'm gonna again apologize for my very low IQ level when it comes to this.

But if I may ask a few question.

In the original post I mentioned I have a 10-3 wire running to the outlet. If I install the newly recommended 14-30 outlet (and the moblie connecter 14-30 plug will that work or should that wire be replaced as well ? Larger ? Or will it suffice?

Also if the 30 in 14-30 means 30 amp max.... what does the 14 stand for ?
 
Upvote 0
Also if the 30 in 14-30 means 30 amp max.... what does the 14 stand for ?
The "14" is a NEMA (National Electrical Manufacturers Association) standard for describing a particular type of electrical outlet (240VAC, with 4 pins). The normal 120V outlet you see in your house is a 5-15, or an outlet which has three pins (hot, neutral, ground) arranged in a unique way which prevents any other type of connector from being used.


ref: NEMA connector - Wikipedia
 
  • Informative
Reactions: GSP and Rocky_H
Upvote 0
The "14" is a NEMA (National Electrical Manufacturers Association) standard for describing a particular type of electrical outlet (240VAC, with 4 pins). The normal 120V outlet you see in your house is a 5-15, or an outlet which has three pins (hot, neutral, ground) arranged in a unique way which prevents any other type of connector from being used.


ref: NEMA connector - Wikipedia
Thank you for the information and link. I will do my best to not make a mistake like this in the future by gaining more knowledge in this field.
 
Upvote 0
So to give more context.

I recently purchased a used 2020 model 3.

I been using my standard outlet (120v 15amp. It charges at 12 amps and is slow.

Recently I purchased 10-3 wire and a 30 amps breaker and a Nema 14-50 outlet and a new mobile charger. After installed the car registers the 240v but limits me to 5amps only.

I went into the charging section amd it says it has a max of 5 amps.

However when I install the previous 110v set up it goes right up to 12 amps.

I checked the plug.... wires and breaker all are correct.

My question is what am I doing wrong ? Why can't I charge above 5 amps with a 10-3 wire, 240v 30amp breaker?
Unfortunately with the mobile connector the connector sets the maximum charge amperage based on the adapter plugged into the mobile connector. Since you are using the 14-50 adapter the maximum amperage is set at 32 amps which is WAY beyond the #10 wire for continuous loading which an EV charger is. Because of that, something is heating up and triggering the output reduction (see pages 11 and 12 of the mobile connector manual): https://www.tesla.com/sites/default...bile_connector_owners_manual_32_amp_en_US.pdf

Take a look at the lights on the mobile connector and check against the manual on pages 11 and 12 and it should tell you what the problem is.

If you had a Tesla wall connector you could change the output manually to limit the current to match your wiring - for instance I had #8 wire instead of the required #6 so I just reduced the maximum charge current to match my wiring. Based on my wiring I could set it to 32 amps (80% of 40 amp service) but at that rate the conductors get a bit warm so I reduced mine to 24 amps. It's more than sufficient for my usage and it's more efficient (less loss to heating wiring).

Bottom line is you have a problem and fire is a real possibility so don't play around with it if you don't know what you are doing. Hire a competent electricial and be sure they understand it is considered a CONTINUOUS LOAD. That makes a difference in which part of the electric code applies.

Good luck and be safe!
 
  • Like
Reactions: RDuke
Upvote 0
So to give more context.

I recently purchased a used 2020 model 3.

I been using my standard outlet (120v 15amp. It charges at 12 amps and is slow.

Recently I purchased 10-3 wire and a 30 amps breaker and a Nema 14-50 outlet and a new mobile charger. After installed the car registers the 240v but limits me to 5amps only.

I went into the charging section amd it says it has a max of 5 amps.

However when I install the previous 110v set up it goes right up to 12 amps.

I checked the plug.... wires and breaker all are correct.

My question is what am I doing wrong ? Why can't I charge above 5 amps with a 10-3 wire, 240v 30amp breaker?
You need a 50 amp breaker with 6 gauge wire to the 14-50 to get 32 amp charging. You have the wrong outlet for 30 amp charging.
 
Last edited:
Upvote 0
Unfortunately with the mobile connector the connector sets the maximum charge amperage based on the adapter plugged into the mobile connector. Since you are using the 14-50 adapter the maximum amperage is set at 32 amps which is WAY beyond the #10 wire for continuous loading which an EV charger is. Because of that, something is heating up and triggering the output reduction (see pages 11 and 12 of the mobile connector manual): https://www.tesla.com/sites/default...bile_connector_owners_manual_32_amp_en_US.pdf

Take a look at the lights on the mobile connector and check against the manual on pages 11 and 12 and it should tell you what the problem is.

If you had a Tesla wall connector you could change the output manually to limit the current to match your wiring - for instance I had #8 wire instead of the required #6 so I just reduced the maximum charge current to match my wiring. Based on my wiring I could set it to 32 amps (80% of 40 amp service) but at that rate the conductors get a bit warm so I reduced mine to 24 amps. It's more than sufficient for my usage and it's more efficient (less loss to heating wiring).

Bottom line is you have a problem and fire is a real possibility so don't play around with it if you don't know what you are doing. Hire a competent electricial and be sure they understand it is considered a CONTINUOUS LOAD. That makes a difference in which part of the electric code applies.

Good luck and be safe!
Thank you.

I did go ahead and order the 14-30 plug and the outlet.

The only question I have from here is will the #10 wire be ok if I draw a constant 20amps on a 30 amp breaker ?

Or do you think I will have heat issues ?

I plan on reducing it to 20 amps max or less (all comes down to how long I have to charge it for the next day)

But I don't plan on needing more then 100 miles of charge per night. 8-10 hours of charge per night I only need a little more then what the 110v at 12 amps produces currently

Hopefully you understand I won't take your answer as a fact I will consult a electrician about this. Just trying to ask to get opinions and thoughts
 
Upvote 0
Thanks bud. But the electricians recommended what I have now.....

Soo I'm gonna stick with what the other guy is recommending
Damn that is sad that actual electricians are making such basic mistakes.
In the original post I mentioned I have a 10-3 wire running to the outlet. If I install the newly recommended 14-30 outlet (and the moblie connecter 14-30 plug will that work or should that wire be replaced as well ? Larger ? Or will it suffice?
Yes, that will work--for a 30A rated circuit.
You can pick what level of circuit you want to use, and then there are three main pieces of it that need to be selected to properly meet the requirement of a circuit of that level: breaker, wire, and endpoint. The endpoint would be either the outlet or hardwired appliance or whatever is getting hooked up.

You got the 30A breaker, and 10 gauge thickness wire is the standard thing used for 30A circuits, so that stuff was fine, but then the electrician chose a wrong outlet to attach onto it.

So yes, this can be fully solved by replacing the outlet with the 14-30 type, and getting the 14-30 plug for the mobile cord.

Also if the 30 in 14-30 means 30 amp max.... what does the 14 stand for ?
Yes, the first number before the hyphen is designating the category of what the general type of outlet it is. There's stuff like whether it's single phase or three phase, what voltage level, whether it has neutral or not, ground or not, etc. The bigger power outlets in your house, like for a stove or clothes dryer are usually 14-XX type. @RayK gave a good link to the NEMA page, which describes what the families of outlets are if you want to read up on it a little bit.
 
  • Helpful
  • Like
Reactions: Cosmacelf and GSP
Upvote 0
Thank you.

I did go ahead and order the 14-30 plug and the outlet.

The only question I have from here is will the #10 wire be ok if I draw a constant 20amps on a 30 amp breaker ?

Or do you think I will have heat issues ?

I plan on reducing it to 20 amps max or less (all comes down to how long I have to charge it for the next day)

But I don't plan on needing more then 100 miles of charge per night. 8-10 hours of charge per night I only need a little more then what the 110v at 12 amps produces currently

Hopefully you understand I won't take your answer as a fact I will consult a electrician about this. Just trying to ask to get opinions and thoughts
Depends ..... I wouldn't expect issues with excess heating pulling 20 amps max. HOWEVER the other factor to consider is the length of the wire from the breaker to the outlet. The longer it is the more resistance and therefore the more voltage drop. Not sure how sensitive the mobile connector is to voltage drop. The final verdict is up to your electrician who should be familiar with building codes in your jurisdiction (codes are not universally the same) Just emphasize that is should be considered a continuous load.
 
Upvote 0