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Anyone Still Experiencing Charge Current Limiting (40A->30A)?

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Try finding a nearby Tesla owner who doesn't have a problem and have them charge their car at your house with their UMC, and your car at their house, and see if the safety reduction kicks in.

That's easier said than done. In my experience, it can be a couple weeks between occurrences. I'm sure my wife (and the other owner) would not be happy about taking a few weeks to run this experiment. I have had loaner vehicles that I charged at home and I've never experienced a charge problem, but the loaners are only here for a one or two nights at a time.
 
That's easier said than done. In my experience, it can be a couple weeks between occurrences. I'm sure my wife (and the other owner) would not be happy about taking a few weeks to run this experiment. I have had loaner vehicles that I charged at home and I've never experienced a charge problem, but the loaners are only here for a one or two nights at a time.
I was thinking it was occurring more frequently. Mine does this too, but it's the poor electricity in our area (so bad that I have a 6 KVA UPS to run the electronics).
 
Thanks, but none of the suggestions in your sig link really helped me. I already had two professional electricians inspect everything. The circuit breaker is about 6 inches from the power-pole drop. The NEMA 14-50 is 2 inches from the breaker box. 6 guage wires. Everything is brand new. Only one breaker and one outlet to one car. Voltage sags don't seem to be a problem as I'm consistently seeing 245-247 volts. We have 200A service to the house, 100A circuit to the house, and 100A circuit to the car. UMC and adapter has been replaced twice. The on-board charger was replaced too. And when I had the traction pack failed, I used a loaner pack for a few months. Nothing changed the behavior. Tesla can't diagnose the car because they don't have a way to charge at 240V/40A. They have 3-phase service, so they only have 208V/40A, which is only about 8 kW.

Are you the only subscriber connected to the transformer, or is it shared with other homes (like your own)? Even a brand new dedicated drop and meter will not be immune from misbehaving loads connected to the same transformer. The transformer provides some buffering against primary-side problems, but even in some cases the power quality from the power company can be an issue. Professional electricians and most power company first-level techs won't be able to identify this because they're using tools that only reflect the power quality over a period of time. You won't see it as a "voltage sag" -- it will be an instantaneous surge or drop for fractions of a second.

In my case, a bad lighting ballast in a shed caused this at a property I own. If you placed a volt-meter on the service you'd see it's stable at 240V, because the meter is just measuring RMS power over a period of time. I found my problem by chance - I noticed it happened when I turned the lights on in the shed. Other people have found that it occurs more often in summer vs. winter (go looking for A/C units), etc.

...and I doubt that your issue is 208V vs. 240V in the service center. As Jerry said, see if it happens at a local RV park or another Tesla owner's home.
 
Are you the only subscriber connected to the transformer, or is it shared with other homes (like your own)? Even a brand new dedicated drop and meter will not be immune from misbehaving loads connected to the same transformer. The transformer provides some buffering against primary-side problems, but even in some cases the power quality from the power company can be an issue. Professional electricians and most power company first-level techs won't be able to identify this because they're using tools that only reflect the power quality over a period of time. You won't see it as a "voltage sag" -- it will be an instantaneous surge or drop for fractions of a second.

In my case, a bad lighting ballast in a shed caused this at a property I own. If you placed a volt-meter on the service you'd see it's stable at 240V, because the meter is just measuring RMS power over a period of time. I found my problem by chance - I noticed it happened when I turned the lights on in the shed. Other people have found that it occurs more often in summer vs. winter (go looking for A/C units), etc.

...and I doubt that your issue is 208V vs. 240V in the service center. As Jerry said, see if it happens at a local RV park or another Tesla owner's home.

I live in a typical Bay Area suburban neighborhood, so I'm definitely not the only home on that transformer. I know it's possible that there could be some transient quality issues with the incoming supply that won't show up with a multi-meter. But, Tesla's logs also don't tell them what caused the charge rate reduction. You would think if it's something like an incoming voltage spike, that would be logged, right? If the on-board computer software can react to it by reducing charge rate, then it must be able to detect it and log it. I guess the only way to be sure is to put an oscilloscope on the line to trigger on glitches or leave it on infinite persistence. It's just a hassle to do this with my wife and young kids around the garage all the time.

I really suspect the car itself is more likely the culprit. And in that case, 208V and 240V definitely matters. If the on-board charger, or cabling, or contactor or something is marginal, then 10kW vs 8kW could make a difference. The amount of power passing through those components will be 15-20% different. One clue is that Tesla actually checked the logs and claimed the problem was happening due to my incoming voltage being too high. At the time of occurrence, they logged 246V and 39.49842A. This is 9.72kW. In contrast, when they charge the car at the service center, it's only about 204-205V and 40A, which is barely above 8kW. But they only test it for one night at a time, which is not conclusive because it could take a couple of weeks or more for this to occur.

They dropped that line of reasoning when I made it clear that 246V is acceptable according to PG&E standards (Link) which specify service tolerance to be +/-5%. For a 240V service, that's 228-252V. That's when they agreed to replace the on-board charger last year. It seems, to me that the frequency of occurrence has reduced, but not by much. At the end of the day, it's an occasional annoyance, it's been almost 2.5 years, and I've already given-up since last year. I just accepted that this might be normal for a lot of people since the 5.8.4 FW update.
 
I suppose Tesla could add additional logging, but remember that the car isn't just one system. The charger's firmware may not have that level of debugging available to it (for whatever reason), or it may be that the level of messaging isn't there between the charger through the CAN gateway and into the MCU that collects all this stuff.

I've looked at several different cases where the car experienced this problem. You mentioned the charger and UMC have been replaced already. There's an outside chance it could be a connection problem in the charge port or the HVJB. Generally, though, if that's the case you will find that it occurs rather frequently. The only time I've seen the "occasional" problem pop up is when there is something strange in the power quality, and then it becomes a pain because power company techs and electricians just stick a multimeter on it (or even a once-a-minute voltage recording "power quality monitor", which does the same thing every minute).

The long, arduous process of elimination is the only way to find what's causing it, unfortunately. From my experience, it's not a common occurrence, but it does happen.
 
I agree, and so that's why I've long given-up. It's become an occasional annoyance, not a deal-breaker.
FWIW, in our area I've found that reducing the charge to 33 amps means it only occurs once every two or three months. As my typical driving day is 50-70 miles and Denise's is about half that, it's a non-issue for our two electric cars.