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The agony of a 10yo Model S 85 with 300 000+ km

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For those who want to know what to expect on their road past 10 years and 330 000 km (205,000 miles) with their Model S, here’s our story, especially the last 12 months before returning the car to Tesla.

[TL;DR]: My advice to old/high-milage Model S owners: sell it before it’s too late, because if/when the battery and the motor are both failing, your car is worth peanuts. I suggest not to push your luck much beyond 250 000 km (150,000 miles), although I read about some people having the same kind of problems with lower millage.

Sorry in advance for the long post. Prices mentioned are in Canadian dollars (~0.75 USD).

Having this car has been a great experience and a privilege, as it was the only electric car able to drive 400+ km in the early days, and it was still a pleasure to drive until the end. We had very nice trips with it, including a few in remote areas at a time when it was not so simple to charge, so we sometimes slept in the car while charging on RV plugs in camp grounds. Or highjack 240V heater circuits with my own plugs to be able to charge overnight! Also, we could fit a 30” oven, a dryer, or a double-size mattress in the trunk, to the astonishment of the people we were helping moving!

Of course, it came with some weaknesses, especially the suspension which needed repairs quite often, for a few thousand dollars each time. But we already knew that when we purchased the car: it’s too heavy for its fancy adjustable air suspension. Last repairs involved changing the rear air suspension on both sides less than a year ago. Then the other main weakness: we had about 10-12 door handle problems, 5 of them were changed on warranty, one @ 1300$ by Tesla, the rest using 3-5$ microswitches from Digikey and 2-3h of my time (because I’m slow). We had two charge port replacements, the second one about a year ago (see below). We also had two wiper mechanism changes over the life of the car, the second one less than a year ago, together with the tailgate lift supports. I had to have the main screen changed for 3000$ in 2019, but got reimbursed following the class action. And the heating system failed at some point. I was able to change the unit for used one at 60$ on Ebay and 3-4h of my time, and asked VE|MTL to change the fuse in the DC-DC unit, which was about 400$. (Opening it involves disconnecting cooling fluid hoses and stuff beyond what I can do at home.) I also changed the headlights once. That’s what comes to my mind. Since 2020, most repairs I couldn’t do myself were done at VE|MTL. If you’re in the Montreal area, I strongly recommend this place, where you can talk to the guys who actually repair your car. What a brilliant concept ;-).

Then, starting about a year ago, we started to have all sorts of problems.
  • At least three times, the adjustable air suspension got stuck either nose down/tail up, or the other way around. Two instances were due to wires touching each other somewhere under the car, but at different places. The other involved changing the rear air suspension shocks, which qualifies as normal wear.
  • The second wiper mechanism change already mention, together with the tailgate lift supports. Let’s put that in the normal wear category.
  • Last summer, I was stupid enough to see that the handle of the home charger was overheating but kept using it, until it melted one into the socket. So I ended up having to change both, for nearly 2k$, also about a year ago. The culprit was the home charger since it would not overheat elsewhere. I purchased the charger in 2015 so I guess it’s normal wear.
  • During a trip last summer, while crossing a semitruck on a small road, we received a rock in the windshield, which cracked beyond repair. They were still backorder (at least at VE|MTL) when we exchanged the car almost a year later.
  • A year ago, the motor started making a slight grinding noise when taking off. Not too much, but it was slowly increasing. It’s due to the windings in the rotor that expand over time and start touching the stator, especially when a lot of current passes through them. Nothing to do but replace it. The guys at VE|MTL told me to just live with it and refrain from accelerating full-throttle. It would not fail abruptly, just degrade slowly up to a point where the motor has to be changed. And it’s sealed/glued in some stuff, so they couldn’t really open it to somehow repair it. (They tried.) Again, normal wear.
  • A bearing needed to be replaced 3 months ago, but that one can be considered normal wear.
  • The charging power at superchargers, which used to be above 100 kW when the SOC was below 50%, clearly decreased suddenly maybe 2-3 years ago, and continued to decrease down to 60 kW at a SOC of 25%, and 40 kW at a SOC of 50%, lately. This started to make trips significantly longer. And let say that this was not “as advertised”. But I understand.
  • For the 10th anniversary of the car (February), we started having a couple of times a series of errors: GTW_w036, ESP_w003, ESP_w002, DI_w124, EPB_w050, GTW_w027, GTW_w104, , GTW_w105, GTW_w025, GTW_037, EPAS_w002, DI_w039. Some of these errors involved having no power steering and power brake of parking brake. But fortunately, they happened close to home or in the driveway. And the errors would go away by themselves or by shutting down the car. That’s until 2 months ago, when it did that in the driveway, without any possibility to shut down the car: the screen would just turn on again immediately, without rebooting. Disconnecting many fuses or even the 12V battery would not solve the problem. At some point, I was momentarily able to put the car in Reverse just before everything failed again. This time, the car remained engaged in Reverse, but still on Park, with no reactions whatsoever from pushing on the stalk. I could feel the car forcing against the Park brakes when pushing slightly on the accelerator. Then I made the error of leaving the car and close the door: since the car thought it was driving (in Reverse), there was no way to access the car again! I finally found that I could semi-open the frunk, then open it with the lever, and then play with the fuses until at some point, I was able to open the tailgate and access the front door from inside to open it. And then leave the window open to be able to access the inside door handle at any time. At this point, the car would remain in Reverse (but with the parking brakes on) despite disconnecting the 12V battery or playing with the stalk during the boot sequence after reconnecting the 12V battery. Obviously, this was a Friday PM, and VE|MTL were closed until Monday, so the car basically remained on Reverse all weekend. No way to charge it because the car thought it was driving, but the SOC was relatively high, and I disconnected the fuse of most subsystems, central screen, headlights, etc. so there was little power consumption. The cherry on the sundae: the car was stuck in front of our garage door where the other car was. What a nightmare!! At that point (and because of what comes next), I was ready to bring the car to the scrap yard, if ever they wanted it. Monday finally came, I had the car towed on a platform (still on Reverse!) to VE|MTL. They realized that it was the TPMS antenna (1st generation Baolong) that had failed and was bringing down several other subsystems with it. They just disconnected it: problem solved! But this and the wire degradation mentioned above and other repairs are signs that this Californian car is not built for areas using salt on roads during winter, and that the car was suffering from corrosion at several places, while not apparent since the body is made of aluminum.
  • Then, the last (and biggest) nail in the coffin: the battery. Last summer (2022), while on a trip in the Maritimes, we ran out of batteries with 7 km of range at some point, 300 m away from a supercharger. I already had that 2-3 years ago at 4 km, but before that, I drove the car a few times down to 1-2 km or range before charging without problems. At the time of the 4-km failure, we were told by Tesla not to go below 10 km of range anymore, so my bad going down to 7 km. Then 2 months ago, I went from Montreal to Chicago and back. During the trip, I arrived at superchargers with 15 km of range a couple of times without issue. But on my way back, at the top of a not-so-steep but long hill in Ontario, the car decided to stop with *30 km* of range left, and 10 km away from the next charger. After being towed to the supercharger, I could reach home without further issues, although not going below 60 km of range anymore! The next day, we did another 400 km trip without trouble. But the next morning, surprise: “Max charge level reduced. OK to drive. Schedule service” (BMS_u029). This is bad, and basically means you have to replace the battery. A refurbished one is 27k$, with was out of the question, given the age of the car and the other problems. Following a discussion with the guys at VE|MTL (whom I appreciate very much, did I mention), we concluded that it was not worth trying opening the battery to find the defective modules, as this would cost several thousand dollars of their time. One thing they could do though is to downgrade the software/firmware to a version from 2020, which is more tolerant to battery degradation. That’s what I opted for. Now this smells like post-programmed obsolescence, just after the 8-year warranty is over. But I guess Tesla would argue they do that to avoid batteries catching fire or whatever. And anyway, the battery had clearly entered its fast degradation regime, see below.
  • One last problem showed up (did I need it): the central screen was becoming very slow, up to a point where it would not turn on anymore. It happened to be a problem with the SD card on the central compute, which contains the navigation maps. Given that we already ordered the new car, VE|MTL just removed it, which means we could still see the map on the screen with the traffic, etc., but navigation would not work. I was fine with it, could use a phone instead, and figure out myself how much range I would need for a trip, especially given that the car would not take into account that it could not go below 15% SOC anymore.
At my last attempt to charge the car to 100% a few days before the exchange, it stopped charging at 348 km of range. And while not stopping on the side of the road (thanks to the older software version), I was experiencing clear power reduction around 55 km of range. This left us with less than 290 km of actual/usable range. This is down from about 360 km 6 months ago, and from 425 km when the car was new. The graph below shows the range as a function of the car millage over its life. The blue points represent the displayed range at 100% charge, orange ones are considering that I could not drive the car below a certain range. The battery had clearly reached its knee point and entered its fast degradation regime in the last 50 000 km (30,000 miles).

Namely because of the battery and motor problems, I could not sell it to anyone. Finding no one interested to part it out for 10-13k$, we accepted the exchange offered by Tesla, and took delivery of brand-new Model 3 SR+. Other 2013 Model S with 200 000 km sell for 25k$, and we’ve put >10k$ in repairs in the last 12 months. Would we have returned the car a year ago, we would have saved about 20k$.

So my advice: sell your old/high-milage Model S before you get into that kind of trouble.

Still, it was a great pleasure to drive it until the end. I’ll miss my Californian car, as I used to call her. After a few days, I’m getting used to the Shanghainese one. Lots of nice features, it drives well, and accelerates well even if it’s “only” a RWD SR+. Regaining some battery range and speed of charge is definitely a relief. But it’s quite stiff, and I miss the comfort of the air suspension of the old one, despite the fact it has been so much trouble.

RangeGeorgette.png
 
I remember the detailer when I went to get Opticoat Pro in 2014 when I got my car. Here's how the conversation went.

D: "Hmm, yeah, see those blemishes."
Me: "Uh, where?"
D: [pointing] "Here."
Me: "Umm, I don't see anything."
D: "Well, stand over here."
Me: "Still don't see anything."
D: "You have to get pretty close to it."
Me: "Hmm, nope."
D: "Hang on, let me get a flashlight." [shines light on it]
Me: "Still not seeing it."
D: "Hang on, you have to get the angle just right. Bring your head down here and look at where the flashlight is pointing."
Me: "Oh. OK, sure, I think I see that."

Paint correction detailers seem to be some kind of mutants with supernatural microscope vision that can see things that just aren't visible to the general population.
We also did Opticoat Pro for our Dec '13 delivery. There was not anything special about the paint either. Somehow, I feel like it's 2014 once again on this forum with people complaining about fit and finish not being on par with the Germans. Déjà vu !
 
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Let’s put another perspective on it. Tesla designs and starts selling the 2013 Model S. After several years, they discover that some high-use battery packs are at risk for catastrophic failure and catching fire. What do they do at this point? If they put a software patch in place to limit the battery so it doesn’t explode people accuse them of bricking their car so they can make more money. If they do nothing and someone dies they’re guilty of negligence and potentially opening themselves to millions if not tens or hundreds of millions in lawsuits. The choice is clear both from an ethical and business/financial standpoint.

If you get the error before your warranty is up Tesla replaces the battery, just as they agreed to do when they issued the warranty. If it happens later, you are on the hook (which is what you implicitly did when you bought the car and accepted the terms of the warranty.)
One subtlety here: Tesla forced that "upgrade" without telling us clearly and, AFAIU, without admitting publicly that risk and it's mitigation. That's mostly what I'm not happy with.
 
One subtlety here: Tesla forced that "upgrade" without telling us clearly and, AFAIU, without admitting publicly that risk and it's mitigation. That's mostly what I'm not happy with.
Would you be happy if you suffered a catastrophic battery failure or a fire because they didn’t update the software to guard against it?

What you’re trying to argue is that there was no risk to not upgrading the software but a significant cost to doing so. That’s not necessarily the case.

As I said, if there was a known risk and Tesla opted not to mitigate it they potentially would have been liable not only for millions in damages but potentially some deaths.
 
Would you be happy if you suffered a catastrophic battery failure or a fire because they didn’t update the software to guard against it?

What you’re trying to argue is that there was no risk to not upgrading the software but a significant cost to doing so. That’s not necessarily the case.

As I said, if there was a known risk and Tesla opted not to mitigate it they potentially would have been liable not only for millions in damages but potentially some deaths.
Have you had to pay 5 figures to replace a Tesla pack on a car valued between $25k-$30k?

I have and am glad Tesla has these safeguards you assume Tesla is implementing.

Calling all EV pioneers -- We are the EV adoption test bed for our children and grandchildren, just like in the beginning days of the Internal Combustion Engine when our forebearers likely complained about 750 mile oil change intervals and pre-electric starter challenges. As some probably said back then "if you can't stand the heat, get out of the kitchen".

As a BMS_u029 casualty myself and 5 figure out of pocket payment to Tesla for a new replacement pack, one challenge is balancing the decision of paying those 5 figures with a car worth $25k-$30k. If our car insurance were handling a similar dollar amount accident claim, they would likely total the car.

This thread's conversation would probably be mute if a new (not reman) full battery replacement costs, say $5k.

Fortunately, business owners such as @wk057 @Recell @racevpr are on the forefront of reducing pack replacement costs and paving the way ahead. As an optimist, product improvement advancements by the aforementioned, Tesla, other EV car manufacturers, and others not even born yet will make these growing pains an article (titled The Early Days of Electric Vehicles) to write about in a 100 years.

The Early Days of Automobile Maintenance and Repair

Battery Replacement 1.pngBattery Replacement 2.pngBattery replacement 3.png
 
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Have you had to pay 5 figures to replace a Tesla pack on a car valued between $25k-$30k?
Fortunately I have not. I feel for the people who have and understand their frustration but some seem to think that the problem wouldn’t exist if not for the software when in fact it would still exist, just as an undetected ticking time bomb.

I am admittedly making the job-conspirist assumption that Tesla isn’t intentionally pushing software updates to brick people’s cars but I’ve seen no evidence of that and it makes no business sense to do so.
 
May need to work on you math of course. Especially living in Atlanta. Probably saving $500 a year. Not even the tax on a new battery
Sigh. Slinging an insult and being wrong about it to boot? Let's say for example my 9 year old car. That would be $4,500. Recell does replacement battery packs right now for $7,895. That's over half of the cost of it.
 
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May need to work on you math of course. Especially living in Atlanta. Probably saving $500 a year. Not even the tax on a new battery
I’m retired and live at the beach and don’t drive a lot but road-trip the model s a good bit. About 50k miles supercharged since owning this car. At 3 miles/kw efficiency at a blended rate of $.40 a kWh that’s around $6500. I’m a third of the way there.

Also my S is perfect in every way. So if the pack goes then it’s a question of the utility of money. Would I spend $20k (assume the cost of a brand new pack replacement) to buy my car with a new battery if I didn’t own it already and with FUSC never have to pay to fuel it? Of course I would!
 
I’m retired and live at the beach and don’t drive a lot but road-trip the model s a good bit. About 50k miles supercharged since owning this car. At 3 miles/kw efficiency at a blended rate of $.40 a kWh that’s around $6500. I’m a third of the way there.

Also my S is perfect in every way. So if the pack goes then it’s a question of the utility of money. Would I spend $20k (assume the cost of a brand new pack replacement) to buy my car with a new battery if I didn’t own it already and with FUSC never have to pay to fuel it? Of course I would!
People who don’t have FUSC or don’t use it enough are the ones trying to always downplay it’s importance 😀
 
People who don’t have FUSC or don’t use it enough are the ones trying to always downplay it’s importance 😀
Probably, but even those that are using it will come at a loss when the battery is due for replacement. The only consolation point is not having paid for some of the "fuel", but that was not the promissed outcome. Tesla never said to put all the money from FUSC in a savings account to pay for a big repair.
 
Probably, but even those that are using it will come at a loss when the battery is due for replacement. The only consolation point is not having paid for some of the "fuel", but that was not the promissed outcome. Tesla never said to put all the money from FUSC in a savings account to pay for a big repair.

Not really, those who are using it will come out on top even in most cases. If you drive 20K miles each year on average for 8 years and almost all of the charging is at SC, you would recover more than what Tesla charges for a replacement battery, and that's assuming your battery will fail after the battery warranty is over, which doesn't happen often IMO.

In 5 years, if that (battery failure) happens to my car, I will drive to NC and have a new battery for much cheaper.
 
I’m retired and live at the beach and don’t drive a lot but road-trip the model s a good bit. About 50k miles supercharged since owning this car. At 3 miles/kw efficiency at a blended rate of $.40 a kWh that’s around $6500. I’m a third of the way there.
I generally agree with you but IMO the value calculation here is based on what you would have paid to charge at home for the great majority of those miles, not the retail cost of supercharging.
 
For those who want to know what to expect on their road past 10 years and 330 000 km (205,000 miles) with their Model S, here’s our story, especially the last 12 months before returning the car to Tesla.

[TL;DR]: My advice to old/high-milage Model S owners: sell it before it’s too late, because if/when the battery and the motor are both failing, your car is worth peanuts. I suggest not to push your luck much beyond 250 000 km (150,000 miles), although I read about some people having the same kind of problems with lower millage.

Sorry in advance for the long post. Prices mentioned are in Canadian dollars (~0.75 USD).

Having this car has been a great experience and a privilege, as it was the only electric car able to drive 400+ km in the early days, and it was still a pleasure to drive until the end. We had very nice trips with it, including a few in remote areas at a time when it was not so simple to charge, so we sometimes slept in the car while charging on RV plugs in camp grounds. Or highjack 240V heater circuits with my own plugs to be able to charge overnight! Also, we could fit a 30” oven, a dryer, or a double-size mattress in the trunk, to the astonishment of the people we were helping moving!

Of course, it came with some weaknesses, especially the suspension which needed repairs quite often, for a few thousand dollars each time. But we already knew that when we purchased the car: it’s too heavy for its fancy adjustable air suspension. Last repairs involved changing the rear air suspension on both sides less than a year ago. Then the other main weakness: we had about 10-12 door handle problems, 5 of them were changed on warranty, one @ 1300$ by Tesla, the rest using 3-5$ microswitches from Digikey and 2-3h of my time (because I’m slow). We had two charge port replacements, the second one about a year ago (see below). We also had two wiper mechanism changes over the life of the car, the second one less than a year ago, together with the tailgate lift supports. I had to have the main screen changed for 3000$ in 2019, but got reimbursed following the class action. And the heating system failed at some point. I was able to change the unit for used one at 60$ on Ebay and 3-4h of my time, and asked VE|MTL to change the fuse in the DC-DC unit, which was about 400$. (Opening it involves disconnecting cooling fluid hoses and stuff beyond what I can do at home.) I also changed the headlights once. That’s what comes to my mind. Since 2020, most repairs I couldn’t do myself were done at VE|MTL. If you’re in the Montreal area, I strongly recommend this place, where you can talk to the guys who actually repair your car. What a brilliant concept ;-).

Then, starting about a year ago, we started to have all sorts of problems.
  • At least three times, the adjustable air suspension got stuck either nose down/tail up, or the other way around. Two instances were due to wires touching each other somewhere under the car, but at different places. The other involved changing the rear air suspension shocks, which qualifies as normal wear.
  • The second wiper mechanism change already mention, together with the tailgate lift supports. Let’s put that in the normal wear category.
  • Last summer, I was stupid enough to see that the handle of the home charger was overheating but kept using it, until it melted one into the socket. So I ended up having to change both, for nearly 2k$, also about a year ago. The culprit was the home charger since it would not overheat elsewhere. I purchased the charger in 2015 so I guess it’s normal wear.
  • During a trip last summer, while crossing a semitruck on a small road, we received a rock in the windshield, which cracked beyond repair. They were still backorder (at least at VE|MTL) when we exchanged the car almost a year later.
  • A year ago, the motor started making a slight grinding noise when taking off. Not too much, but it was slowly increasing. It’s due to the windings in the rotor that expand over time and start touching the stator, especially when a lot of current passes through them. Nothing to do but replace it. The guys at VE|MTL told me to just live with it and refrain from accelerating full-throttle. It would not fail abruptly, just degrade slowly up to a point where the motor has to be changed. And it’s sealed/glued in some stuff, so they couldn’t really open it to somehow repair it. (They tried.) Again, normal wear.
  • A bearing needed to be replaced 3 months ago, but that one can be considered normal wear.
  • The charging power at superchargers, which used to be above 100 kW when the SOC was below 50%, clearly decreased suddenly maybe 2-3 years ago, and continued to decrease down to 60 kW at a SOC of 25%, and 40 kW at a SOC of 50%, lately. This started to make trips significantly longer. And let say that this was not “as advertised”. But I understand.
  • For the 10th anniversary of the car (February), we started having a couple of times a series of errors: GTW_w036, ESP_w003, ESP_w002, DI_w124, EPB_w050, GTW_w027, GTW_w104, , GTW_w105, GTW_w025, GTW_037, EPAS_w002, DI_w039. Some of these errors involved having no power steering and power brake of parking brake. But fortunately, they happened close to home or in the driveway. And the errors would go away by themselves or by shutting down the car. That’s until 2 months ago, when it did that in the driveway, without any possibility to shut down the car: the screen would just turn on again immediately, without rebooting. Disconnecting many fuses or even the 12V battery would not solve the problem. At some point, I was momentarily able to put the car in Reverse just before everything failed again. This time, the car remained engaged in Reverse, but still on Park, with no reactions whatsoever from pushing on the stalk. I could feel the car forcing against the Park brakes when pushing slightly on the accelerator. Then I made the error of leaving the car and close the door: since the car thought it was driving (in Reverse), there was no way to access the car again! I finally found that I could semi-open the frunk, then open it with the lever, and then play with the fuses until at some point, I was able to open the tailgate and access the front door from inside to open it. And then leave the window open to be able to access the inside door handle at any time. At this point, the car would remain in Reverse (but with the parking brakes on) despite disconnecting the 12V battery or playing with the stalk during the boot sequence after reconnecting the 12V battery. Obviously, this was a Friday PM, and VE|MTL were closed until Monday, so the car basically remained on Reverse all weekend. No way to charge it because the car thought it was driving, but the SOC was relatively high, and I disconnected the fuse of most subsystems, central screen, headlights, etc. so there was little power consumption. The cherry on the sundae: the car was stuck in front of our garage door where the other car was. What a nightmare!! At that point (and because of what comes next), I was ready to bring the car to the scrap yard, if ever they wanted it. Monday finally came, I had the car towed on a platform (still on Reverse!) to VE|MTL. They realized that it was the TPMS antenna (1st generation Baolong) that had failed and was bringing down several other subsystems with it. They just disconnected it: problem solved! But this and the wire degradation mentioned above and other repairs are signs that this Californian car is not built for areas using salt on roads during winter, and that the car was suffering from corrosion at several places, while not apparent since the body is made of aluminum.
  • Then, the last (and biggest) nail in the coffin: the battery. Last summer (2022), while on a trip in the Maritimes, we ran out of batteries with 7 km of range at some point, 300 m away from a supercharger. I already had that 2-3 years ago at 4 km, but before that, I drove the car a few times down to 1-2 km or range before charging without problems. At the time of the 4-km failure, we were told by Tesla not to go below 10 km of range anymore, so my bad going down to 7 km. Then 2 months ago, I went from Montreal to Chicago and back. During the trip, I arrived at superchargers with 15 km of range a couple of times without issue. But on my way back, at the top of a not-so-steep but long hill in Ontario, the car decided to stop with *30 km* of range left, and 10 km away from the next charger. After being towed to the supercharger, I could reach home without further issues, although not going below 60 km of range anymore! The next day, we did another 400 km trip without trouble. But the next morning, surprise: “Max charge level reduced. OK to drive. Schedule service” (BMS_u029). This is bad, and basically means you have to replace the battery. A refurbished one is 27k$, with was out of the question, given the age of the car and the other problems. Following a discussion with the guys at VE|MTL (whom I appreciate very much, did I mention), we concluded that it was not worth trying opening the battery to find the defective modules, as this would cost several thousand dollars of their time. One thing they could do though is to downgrade the software/firmware to a version from 2020, which is more tolerant to battery degradation. That’s what I opted for. Now this smells like post-programmed obsolescence, just after the 8-year warranty is over. But I guess Tesla would argue they do that to avoid batteries catching fire or whatever. And anyway, the battery had clearly entered its fast degradation regime, see below.
  • One last problem showed up (did I need it): the central screen was becoming very slow, up to a point where it would not turn on anymore. It happened to be a problem with the SD card on the central compute, which contains the navigation maps. Given that we already ordered the new car, VE|MTL just removed it, which means we could still see the map on the screen with the traffic, etc., but navigation would not work. I was fine with it, could use a phone instead, and figure out myself how much range I would need for a trip, especially given that the car would not take into account that it could not go below 15% SOC anymore.
At my last attempt to charge the car to 100% a few days before the exchange, it stopped charging at 348 km of range. And while not stopping on the side of the road (thanks to the older software version), I was experiencing clear power reduction around 55 km of range. This left us with less than 290 km of actual/usable range. This is down from about 360 km 6 months ago, and from 425 km when the car was new. The graph below shows the range as a function of the car millage over its life. The blue points represent the displayed range at 100% charge, orange ones are considering that I could not drive the car below a certain range. The battery had clearly reached its knee point and entered its fast degradation regime in the last 50 000 km (30,000 miles).

Namely because of the battery and motor problems, I could not sell it to anyone. Finding no one interested to part it out for 10-13k$, we accepted the exchange offered by Tesla, and took delivery of brand-new Model 3 SR+. Other 2013 Model S with 200 000 km sell for 25k$, and we’ve put >10k$ in repairs in the last 12 months. Would we have returned the car a year ago, we would have saved about 20k$.

So my advice: sell your old/high-milage Model S before you get into that kind of trouble.

Still, it was a great pleasure to drive it until the end. I’ll miss my Californian car, as I used to call her. After a few days, I’m getting used to the Shanghainese one. Lots of nice features, it drives well, and accelerates well even if it’s “only” a RWD SR+. Regaining some battery range and speed of charge is definitely a relief. But it’s quite stiff, and I miss the comfort of the air suspension of the old one, despite the fact it has been so much trouble.

View attachment 945895
Just happened to notice your post. As an owner of a 2013 p85+ I know exactly what you mean.. I should never have bought this car and now I am stuck with a worthless pile of junk..
 
What other car in this car would have been more reliable in 2013? After 10y and this mileage an ICE car would have had 30 oil changes, 1-2 timing chains/belts replaced, few sets of brakes and a lot of fuel, no matter if it’s an Audi, Mercedes or BMW.
And being up north is not helping any brand.
 
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Just happened to notice your post. As an owner of a 2013 p85+ I know exactly what you mean.. I should never have bought this car and now I am stuck with a worthless pile of junk..
You researched other cars and decided to buy this specific one. It must've been the best one. Hindsight is 20 20. Being able to see years into the future, which car should you have bought back then? Which car will you buy today?.
 
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I am no Tesla fanboy. I will not ever buy one again. But some of this stuff is expected learning curve and I don't fault Tesla for it that much.
Now - their customer service is insulting. They aren't doing well enough to support older cars...But learning how to protect older batteries is helpful and necessary.
Well said.

Would also add and echo what @cpa wrote here too:
If "some of this stuff is expected learning curve," then we were unwitting and unpaid participants. Tesla compounded their self-inflicted wounds by concealing this substantial reduction in Supercharging speeds from us in software updates that were labeled, "minor bug fixes and improvements." I fail to equate a 33% + increase in Supercharging time spent as a minor bug fix or improvement.

I don't expect any favors from Tesla. (I also don't expect my battery to conflagrate, either.) But I do expect Tesla to be as forthcoming as possible when seven years' worth of data reveals to them that historical Supercharging speeds and tapering need to be downgraded significantly for protecting the battery. And I expect them to offer a reasonable remedy to us--one that paints them well in the court of public opinion, one that allows them to make some money, and one that allows us owners to regain the faster speeds that we had relied upon for several years if we so chose.

Well, apparently I jinxed myself with my earlier post preferring the risk of driving my older car, as just one week later the car gods decided to punish me - a drunk driver ran a red light and hit us....But older car is clear value winner, only IF it can survive the additional 4 years.
Sorry to hear of this but glad you guys came through okay.

Those with well maintained early builds, especially those grandfathered into the old offerings (FUSC, Premium Connectivity, FSD at initial pricing, etc.) are in an interesting spot where the total value of the car is greater than the sum of the parts.

I generally agree with you but IMO the value calculation here is based on what you would have paid to charge at home for the great majority of those miles, not the retail cost of supercharging.
People who don’t have FUSC or don’t use it enough are the ones trying to always downplay it’s importance 😀
Just got back from a 7.3k mile road trip; FUSC saved me $921 - the cost of what Tesla would have otherwise invoiced me. Just started a thread too asking how aggressive Tesla should be with variable pricing at congested superchargers.