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The agony of a 10yo Model S 85 with 300 000+ km

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For those who want to know what to expect on their road past 10 years and 330 000 km (205,000 miles) with their Model S, here’s our story, especially the last 12 months before returning the car to Tesla.

[TL;DR]: My advice to old/high-milage Model S owners: sell it before it’s too late, because if/when the battery and the motor are both failing, your car is worth peanuts. I suggest not to push your luck much beyond 250 000 km (150,000 miles), although I read about some people having the same kind of problems with lower millage.

Sorry in advance for the long post. Prices mentioned are in Canadian dollars (~0.75 USD).

Having this car has been a great experience and a privilege, as it was the only electric car able to drive 400+ km in the early days, and it was still a pleasure to drive until the end. We had very nice trips with it, including a few in remote areas at a time when it was not so simple to charge, so we sometimes slept in the car while charging on RV plugs in camp grounds. Or highjack 240V heater circuits with my own plugs to be able to charge overnight! Also, we could fit a 30” oven, a dryer, or a double-size mattress in the trunk, to the astonishment of the people we were helping moving!

Of course, it came with some weaknesses, especially the suspension which needed repairs quite often, for a few thousand dollars each time. But we already knew that when we purchased the car: it’s too heavy for its fancy adjustable air suspension. Last repairs involved changing the rear air suspension on both sides less than a year ago. Then the other main weakness: we had about 10-12 door handle problems, 5 of them were changed on warranty, one @ 1300$ by Tesla, the rest using 3-5$ microswitches from Digikey and 2-3h of my time (because I’m slow). We had two charge port replacements, the second one about a year ago (see below). We also had two wiper mechanism changes over the life of the car, the second one less than a year ago, together with the tailgate lift supports. I had to have the main screen changed for 3000$ in 2019, but got reimbursed following the class action. And the heating system failed at some point. I was able to change the unit for used one at 60$ on Ebay and 3-4h of my time, and asked VE|MTL to change the fuse in the DC-DC unit, which was about 400$. (Opening it involves disconnecting cooling fluid hoses and stuff beyond what I can do at home.) I also changed the headlights once. That’s what comes to my mind. Since 2020, most repairs I couldn’t do myself were done at VE|MTL. If you’re in the Montreal area, I strongly recommend this place, where you can talk to the guys who actually repair your car. What a brilliant concept ;-).

Then, starting about a year ago, we started to have all sorts of problems.
  • At least three times, the adjustable air suspension got stuck either nose down/tail up, or the other way around. Two instances were due to wires touching each other somewhere under the car, but at different places. The other involved changing the rear air suspension shocks, which qualifies as normal wear.
  • The second wiper mechanism change already mention, together with the tailgate lift supports. Let’s put that in the normal wear category.
  • Last summer, I was stupid enough to see that the handle of the home charger was overheating but kept using it, until it melted one into the socket. So I ended up having to change both, for nearly 2k$, also about a year ago. The culprit was the home charger since it would not overheat elsewhere. I purchased the charger in 2015 so I guess it’s normal wear.
  • During a trip last summer, while crossing a semitruck on a small road, we received a rock in the windshield, which cracked beyond repair. They were still backorder (at least at VE|MTL) when we exchanged the car almost a year later.
  • A year ago, the motor started making a slight grinding noise when taking off. Not too much, but it was slowly increasing. It’s due to the windings in the rotor that expand over time and start touching the stator, especially when a lot of current passes through them. Nothing to do but replace it. The guys at VE|MTL told me to just live with it and refrain from accelerating full-throttle. It would not fail abruptly, just degrade slowly up to a point where the motor has to be changed. And it’s sealed/glued in some stuff, so they couldn’t really open it to somehow repair it. (They tried.) Again, normal wear.
  • A bearing needed to be replaced 3 months ago, but that one can be considered normal wear.
  • The charging power at superchargers, which used to be above 100 kW when the SOC was below 50%, clearly decreased suddenly maybe 2-3 years ago, and continued to decrease down to 60 kW at a SOC of 25%, and 40 kW at a SOC of 50%, lately. This started to make trips significantly longer. And let say that this was not “as advertised”. But I understand.
  • For the 10th anniversary of the car (February), we started having a couple of times a series of errors: GTW_w036, ESP_w003, ESP_w002, DI_w124, EPB_w050, GTW_w027, GTW_w104, , GTW_w105, GTW_w025, GTW_037, EPAS_w002, DI_w039. Some of these errors involved having no power steering and power brake of parking brake. But fortunately, they happened close to home or in the driveway. And the errors would go away by themselves or by shutting down the car. That’s until 2 months ago, when it did that in the driveway, without any possibility to shut down the car: the screen would just turn on again immediately, without rebooting. Disconnecting many fuses or even the 12V battery would not solve the problem. At some point, I was momentarily able to put the car in Reverse just before everything failed again. This time, the car remained engaged in Reverse, but still on Park, with no reactions whatsoever from pushing on the stalk. I could feel the car forcing against the Park brakes when pushing slightly on the accelerator. Then I made the error of leaving the car and close the door: since the car thought it was driving (in Reverse), there was no way to access the car again! I finally found that I could semi-open the frunk, then open it with the lever, and then play with the fuses until at some point, I was able to open the tailgate and access the front door from inside to open it. And then leave the window open to be able to access the inside door handle at any time. At this point, the car would remain in Reverse (but with the parking brakes on) despite disconnecting the 12V battery or playing with the stalk during the boot sequence after reconnecting the 12V battery. Obviously, this was a Friday PM, and VE|MTL were closed until Monday, so the car basically remained on Reverse all weekend. No way to charge it because the car thought it was driving, but the SOC was relatively high, and I disconnected the fuse of most subsystems, central screen, headlights, etc. so there was little power consumption. The cherry on the sundae: the car was stuck in front of our garage door where the other car was. What a nightmare!! At that point (and because of what comes next), I was ready to bring the car to the scrap yard, if ever they wanted it. Monday finally came, I had the car towed on a platform (still on Reverse!) to VE|MTL. They realized that it was the TPMS antenna (1st generation Baolong) that had failed and was bringing down several other subsystems with it. They just disconnected it: problem solved! But this and the wire degradation mentioned above and other repairs are signs that this Californian car is not built for areas using salt on roads during winter, and that the car was suffering from corrosion at several places, while not apparent since the body is made of aluminum.
  • Then, the last (and biggest) nail in the coffin: the battery. Last summer (2022), while on a trip in the Maritimes, we ran out of batteries with 7 km of range at some point, 300 m away from a supercharger. I already had that 2-3 years ago at 4 km, but before that, I drove the car a few times down to 1-2 km or range before charging without problems. At the time of the 4-km failure, we were told by Tesla not to go below 10 km of range anymore, so my bad going down to 7 km. Then 2 months ago, I went from Montreal to Chicago and back. During the trip, I arrived at superchargers with 15 km of range a couple of times without issue. But on my way back, at the top of a not-so-steep but long hill in Ontario, the car decided to stop with *30 km* of range left, and 10 km away from the next charger. After being towed to the supercharger, I could reach home without further issues, although not going below 60 km of range anymore! The next day, we did another 400 km trip without trouble. But the next morning, surprise: “Max charge level reduced. OK to drive. Schedule service” (BMS_u029). This is bad, and basically means you have to replace the battery. A refurbished one is 27k$, with was out of the question, given the age of the car and the other problems. Following a discussion with the guys at VE|MTL (whom I appreciate very much, did I mention), we concluded that it was not worth trying opening the battery to find the defective modules, as this would cost several thousand dollars of their time. One thing they could do though is to downgrade the software/firmware to a version from 2020, which is more tolerant to battery degradation. That’s what I opted for. Now this smells like post-programmed obsolescence, just after the 8-year warranty is over. But I guess Tesla would argue they do that to avoid batteries catching fire or whatever. And anyway, the battery had clearly entered its fast degradation regime, see below.
  • One last problem showed up (did I need it): the central screen was becoming very slow, up to a point where it would not turn on anymore. It happened to be a problem with the SD card on the central compute, which contains the navigation maps. Given that we already ordered the new car, VE|MTL just removed it, which means we could still see the map on the screen with the traffic, etc., but navigation would not work. I was fine with it, could use a phone instead, and figure out myself how much range I would need for a trip, especially given that the car would not take into account that it could not go below 15% SOC anymore.
At my last attempt to charge the car to 100% a few days before the exchange, it stopped charging at 348 km of range. And while not stopping on the side of the road (thanks to the older software version), I was experiencing clear power reduction around 55 km of range. This left us with less than 290 km of actual/usable range. This is down from about 360 km 6 months ago, and from 425 km when the car was new. The graph below shows the range as a function of the car millage over its life. The blue points represent the displayed range at 100% charge, orange ones are considering that I could not drive the car below a certain range. The battery had clearly reached its knee point and entered its fast degradation regime in the last 50 000 km (30,000 miles).

Namely because of the battery and motor problems, I could not sell it to anyone. Finding no one interested to part it out for 10-13k$, we accepted the exchange offered by Tesla, and took delivery of brand-new Model 3 SR+. Other 2013 Model S with 200 000 km sell for 25k$, and we’ve put >10k$ in repairs in the last 12 months. Would we have returned the car a year ago, we would have saved about 20k$.

So my advice: sell your old/high-milage Model S before you get into that kind of trouble.

Still, it was a great pleasure to drive it until the end. I’ll miss my Californian car, as I used to call her. After a few days, I’m getting used to the Shanghainese one. Lots of nice features, it drives well, and accelerates well even if it’s “only” a RWD SR+. Regaining some battery range and speed of charge is definitely a relief. But it’s quite stiff, and I miss the comfort of the air suspension of the old one, despite the fact it has been so much trouble.

RangeGeorgette.png
 
So I bought another Tesla after saying earlier in the thread that I would never buy one again. I am a hypocrite.
The fact is that Tesla gives pretty good value. It is not priced at German car levels. Ok - maybe the S is - and so it is more fair to call out the paint issues with the S. But the Y is just a reasonable price for what is a nice small SUV. I don't really care if I can find a defect in the paint with a flashlight. My 2015 S only had paint issues where it was repainted after an accident - that bugged me a lot. But that wasn't Tesla's fault.
The Y also has a very good range, very good efficiency and the best charging network.
I tried to find something else but it just didn't make sense to pay close to the same for a Kia or a lot more for Germans etc and have to hope that charging on the road is good. And to hope that it is as reliable as a 3/Y. Our 3 has seen the service center one time. My S was also super reliable.
My 2015 was a total loss so it is sitting on a dirt lot in the heat with a battery down to 18 miles as of today. I wonder when I start getting texted every day to charge it. We have a 2019 3 that did that at about 15 miles while at the airport. Unfortunatly my states salvage laws are not straightforward - they didn't even give me a salvage value or chance to buy it. It drives fine and could be fixed for $2k to something reasonable (ok a lot of bondo perhaps). Such a waste!
 
So I bought another Tesla after saying earlier in the thread that I would never buy one again. I am a hypocrite.

I remember you saying that. That's an honest disclosure ;)

Also, putting aside all Tesla service center issues, mostly due to the high volume, you take your Tesla to one of them and you know all they do is servicing Tesla EV's. You take your non-Tesla EV to one of those ICE/EV dealerships, what do they do? Work on some EV's and on lots of ICE for sure. Different levels of competency IMO.
 
So I bought another Tesla after saying earlier in the thread that I would never buy one again. I am a hypocrite.
The fact is that Tesla gives pretty good value. It is not priced at German car levels. Ok - maybe the S is - and so it is more fair to call out the paint issues with the S. But the Y is just a reasonable price for what is a nice small SUV. I don't really care if I can find a defect in the paint with a flashlight. My 2015 S only had paint issues where it was repainted after an accident - that bugged me a lot. But that wasn't Tesla's fault.
The Y also has a very good range, very good efficiency and the best charging network.
I tried to find something else but it just didn't make sense to pay close to the same for a Kia or a lot more for Germans etc and have to hope that charging on the road is good. And to hope that it is as reliable as a 3/Y. Our 3 has seen the service center one time. My S was also super reliable.
My 2015 was a total loss so it is sitting on a dirt lot in the heat with a battery down to 18 miles as of today. I wonder when I start getting texted every day to charge it. We have a 2019 3 that did that at about 15 miles while at the airport. Unfortunatly my states salvage laws are not straightforward - they didn't even give me a salvage value or chance to buy it. It drives fine and could be fixed for $2k to something reasonable (ok a lot of bondo perhaps). Such a waste!
I just rode in my friend's brand new MB EQS (Crossover/SUV) with the 110kWh battery pack and I can really appreciate the solid build and tuned suspension. I've been saying the my first Tesla would hopefully be my last Tesla; in that I hoped that competition would challenge Tesla to make a better product, provide better service, etc and I think that it's finally getting closer. Tesla has the edge in battery production costs, charging infrastructure, overall production costs, and motor efficiency as well as being in the game longer so perhaps they've had more time and experience working through kinks. Legacy automakers have the fit and finish down, tuning, and in many cases have beaten Tesla with faster level 3 charging sessions. However, the big question remains is who will make the fleet with the most reliable and robust vehicles. Hyundai, Lucid, and Mercedes Benz might have the faster level 3 charging for now, but we don't know how that affects battery health, battery life, and other maladies.
 
Tesla has the edge in battery production costs, charging infrastructure, overall production costs, and motor efficiency as well as being in the game longer so perhaps they've had more time and experience working through kinks.

And that Tesla is in possession of a tremendous amount of data gathered from its fleet over a decade, something no one else in the EV space currently has.
 
Most - actually all - ICE vehicles I have bought from legacy manufacturers started needing regular major repairs beginning about 5 years and/or about 100,000 km after purchase, or earlier. It sounds as though the original poster in this thread actually did pretty well with his Tesla.
 
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1- la suspensión neumática se pone en vehículos pesados,precisamente por eso.
2- la reducción de autonomía,se produjo con las actualizaciones 2019.16.1 y 2,y la 2022,recientemente,
no por la degradación.
3-he pedido explicaciones a soporte, y no he recibido respuesta.
PD Es un S85 de 2014, con 515.000km.
 
Customer care is insulting is a gentle way to put it. Older cars ? They’re not doing anything to support new cars !
I’ve a M3 (11/22). Infotainment works 1/3 times if I’m lucky. Been with Tesla customer care a couple dozen times. All I get from them is a “future software update will fix it”. That future could be tomorrow, next year or 5 years from now. No one knows.
Tesla is over rated. Kudos to them for starting the electric revolution but now there are some really compelling alternatives.
Only 1 thing that they’ve a HUGE advantage on : SC network.
Quick update. That software update did eventually happen though I am not sure which one really fixed it. But now the infotainment works most times. it does have some other minor glitches but I am willing to turn a blind eye to them.
Overall customer care is still a black spot though. I think they've come far enough & been profitable for long enough to be stop cutting corners & provide the care in line with other manufacturers in their category (= premium & above) provide.
 
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Most - actually all - ICE vehicles I have bought from legacy manufacturers started needing regular major repairs beginning about 5 years and/or about 100,000 km after purchase, or earlier. It sounds as though the original poster in this thread actually did pretty well with his Tesla.
Absolutely not true. Needing regular major repairs??? My experiences with ice cars over tye last 30+ years makes your statement false. I currently own 2 as well as a model y. One ice has 58,000. Nothing but oil changes which was free to 24k miles and new tires. My other one has 95000 miles on it. Oil change and tires. I did have couple maintenance done on it. But nothing major and we’re around $2-300 worth of maintenance from dealer.
 
Absolutely not true. Needing regular major repairs??? My experiences with ice cars over tye last 30+ years makes your statement false. I currently own 2 as well as a model y. One ice has 58,000. Nothing but oil changes which was free to 24k miles and new tires. My other one has 95000 miles on it. Oil change and tires. I did have couple maintenance done on it. But nothing major and we’re around $2-300 worth of maintenance from dealer.
Agreed, that's pretty ridiculous. I have owned a lot of really old cars (>10 years old) over the years, and a family member currently drives a 19 year old truck. It has the original engine and transmission with no major repairs. With basic regular maintenance, a gas car can last a really, really, long time.

The positive with an EV is that you can put a ton of miles on it. Electric motors are very reliable, and an EV requires minimal maintenance. The negative is ALL batteries calendar age, and about 10 years is a reasonable time-frame. So if you drive low miles, a gas car will give you much better longevity and is the best financial choice. If you drive high mileage as I do, then an EV may be a good fit. Some people need to live in reality, and realize there's a place for both gas and EV vehicles in the marketplace. Choose the right tool for the right job.
 
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We have a 2011 Honda Odyssey with about 130k miles on it. We’ve had very few repairs but we have had to do transmission flushes, oil changes, replace the timing belt and water pump, replace the brakes and rotors, replace the battery, and flush the coolant. The first 3-5 years in an ICE car is typically the honeymoon period but then you need to start doing these maintenance items that all cost money, some of them significant money. (My daughter just had the brakes and rotors done on her Camry with 50k miles and it was $1500.)

As I recall, the only routine maintenance on my model y is rotating the tires and flushing the brake lines.

Edit- there are many good cars that don’t need many repairs but there are also plenty of cars that do. I was talking to my mechanic last week and he was saying it’s not atypical for the large GM SUVs to need one or two expensive repairs per year starting about 80k miles. In his words, “I’m not complaining - it pays for college for my kids.” Repairs are very dependent on the car, how it’s maintained and how it’s driven.
 
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Absolutely not true. Needing regular major repairs??? My experiences with ice cars over tye last 30+ years makes your statement false. I currently own 2 as well as a model y. One ice has 58,000. Nothing but oil changes which was free to 24k miles and new tires. My other one has 95000 miles on it. Oil change and tires. I did have couple maintenance done on it. But nothing major and we’re around $2-300 worth of maintenance from dealer.
I think you misread chinney's post. They didn't say that all ICE vehicles need major repairs around the 5yr/60K mile mark, rather they were recalling that all the ICE vehicles they've owned had that occur. So it's odd to say that their experience is not true or didn't happen. Now my 23 year old VW Golf TDI has over 320K miles on it without a single major repair outside of replacing the fuel pump seals and the clutch replaced at 280K miles after the pressure plate fingers broke (still plenty of meat on the disc). Never had a major repair on our high-miled Lexus, Acura, and Mazda, but the vanes on the turbocharger of our 2006 Chevy Duramax are acting up.

Anyways, I've known many JLR (Jaguar-Land Rover), BMWs, Porsche, and Subarus needing some major repairs around the 60K mile mark...not too uncommon.
 
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I think you misread chinney's post. They didn't say that all ICE vehicles need major repairs around the 5yr/60K mile mark, rather they were recalling that all the ICE vehicles they've owned had that occur. So it's odd to say that their experience is not true or didn't happen. Now my 23 year old VW Golf TDI has over 320K miles on it without a single major repair outside of replacing the fuel pump seals and the clutch replaced at 280K miles after the pressure plate fingers broke (still plenty of meat on the disc). Never had a major repair on our high-miled Lexus, Acura, and Mazda, but the vanes on the turbocharger of our 2006 Chevy Duramax are acting up.

Anyways, I've known many JLR (Jaguar-Land Rover), BMWs, Porsche, and Subarus needing some major repairs around the 60K mile mark...not too uncommon.
I get it. Not saying most if not all of his ice vehicles did not have major problems at 5/60k miles mark. Maybe he is unlucky with cars. Yes I may have misread his post. I had a jeep and it was terrible. One of my best car I ve owned was a bmw 330. Had over 120k with no issues before selling it.

Most cars are good until about 100k miles without any major failures. My friend has the X for about 5 years, and last week his rear doors stopped lifting to open automatically. All cars have or could have issues. I believe tesla price of repairs will be in the bmw, Mercedes range
 
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Absolutely not true. Needing regular major repairs??? My experiences with ice cars over tye last 30+ years makes your statement false. I currently own 2 as well as a model y. One ice has 58,000. Nothing but oil changes which was free to 24k miles and new tires. My other one has 95000 miles on it. Oil change and tires. I did have couple maintenance done on it. But nothing major and we’re around $2-300 worth of maintenance from dealer.
I was just relating my experience. Experiences can vary depending on type of car, type and area of driving, frequency of regular maintenance and dumb luck. That said, on average, ICE cars have themselves become longer-lived over the years. Nevertheless, quite aside from my own experience, I understand that the 100,000 mile mark is considered the point at which ICE cars generally will need regular significant work, albeit with variations. That's not to say that you can't keep them on the road, even indefinitely, if you keep up with that work. I have done that myself, though at a certain point my own experience was that it did not make economic sense after certain point.

I still think that the original poster did pretty well with his Tesla. We will have to see how the majority of Teslas sold over the past few years hold up in the long term.
 
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Well, apparently I jinxed myself with my earlier post preferring the risk of driving my older car, as just one week later the car gods decided to punish me - a drunk driver ran a red light and hit us. Damage was mostly to the front of the car, HV battery was probably fine - but the airbags deployed and the claims rep said it's a total loss at that point. One more perfectly good used HV battery for the remanufacturing pipeline....

So perfectly illustrates the opportunity cost dilemma... yes, I would have been willing to pay $15K for an out-of-warranty battery pack, but even with a 4-year used pack warranty, will the car survive 4 years that I expect to amortize that? Car could get totaled the very next day after the replacement pack is put in, if you're unlucky As folks have stated, if your car is a total loss, you get the value of the car only, you don't get your $15K back, or any fraction. I just put on new tires and new 12V battery in the past month, all sunk costs that are gone. Statistically now I've had several middle-aged cars killed prematurely - two by drunk drivers, one by flood, one by college-age niece...

So here's the depreciation avoidance issue illustrated - I think I'll be lucky to get $30-40K back for the valuation of my 2016.5 Model S. I can't buy a new Model S for that, not even a new Model 3. If I kept the Model S as planned, in the next 4 years I'd see another $15-20K in deprecation, add in a replacement $15K battery, I would've been out about $30K keeping my car.

But now I'm forced to buy a new car, if I get a new Model S for $90K, I'll have about $45K in depreciation over the next 4 years. Plus need to buy EAP again for $6K, and new EAP doesn't drive any better than 7 year old depreciated EAP. And I've lost my free unlimited supercharging, which would have at least $2K in realized value over the next 4 years. Sure, you get to drive a newer car that's at least more refined, but experientially not necessarily that much different from my facelift S.

So in conclusion: at least $20K MORE for new Model S over 4 years, even AFTER factoring in $15K for a reman battery pack on the older car. But older car is clear value winner, only IF it can survive the additional 4 years.
With the negativity on this thread, are you going to replace the totaled car with another Tesla?

I can say our new Model 3 build quality is pretty good. Seems very tightly put together, handles well, tight steering.

And no problems at all with my Model X after 23,000 miles. Drives like a touring car, comfortable on long trips.
 
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Early adopter here. The battery on my 2014 Model S 85 died suddenly 3 weeks ago.(100k miles, out of battery warranty , free supercharging, free premium connectivity for life).
I could unlock the car to get in, but no screen, no dashboard, no access via the app.
Had to tow it to the nearest SC. Tesla SC said battery management errors (no details) and that the only option I have is to replace the battery. $15K for a refurbished battery that will give 'similar' range as my old car with no guarantee on what the range will be until they replace it. Warranty is 4years/50k miles.
If I want to trade it in without the battery, they offered 4K. I hated the fact that after 9 years, the car basically becomes a brick with no way out but to pay premium for a refurb battery.
Put thought into this and guaging from the 1st battery experience, I will pay $15k/50k miles which seems very high for an EV. I would be better off getting an ICE just based on how long the next battery lasts. They should atleast offer the 400mile new battery to customers as an option or sell the battery for 10K or less. (Hoping they do this for all the folks who are going to lose warranty pretty soon)

HP
 
Early adopter here. The battery on my 2014 Model S 85 died suddenly 3 weeks ago.(100k miles, out of battery warranty , free supercharging, free premium connectivity for life).
I could unlock the car to get in, but no screen, no dashboard, no access via the app.
Had to tow it to the nearest SC. Tesla SC said battery management errors (no details) and that the only option I have is to replace the battery. $15K for a refurbished battery that will give 'similar' range as my old car with no guarantee on what the range will be until they replace it. Warranty is 4years/50k miles.
If I want to trade it in without the battery, they offered 4K. I hated the fact that after 9 years, the car basically becomes a brick with no way out but to pay premium for a refurb battery.
Put thought into this and guaging from the 1st battery experience, I will pay $15k/50k miles which seems very high for an EV. I would be better off getting an ICE just based on how long the next battery lasts. They should atleast offer the 400mile new battery to customers as an option or sell the battery for 10K or less. (Hoping they do this for all the folks who are going to lose warranty pretty soon)

HP

If you opt to keep the car and purchase a remanufactured battery, my suggestion would be to invest a couple of thousand dollars extra and aim for a fresh pack from Tesla.
 
Early adopter here. The battery on my 2014 Model S 85 died suddenly 3 weeks ago.(100k miles, out of battery warranty , free supercharging, free premium connectivity for life).
I could unlock the car to get in, but no screen, no dashboard, no access via the app.
Had to tow it to the nearest SC. Tesla SC said battery management errors (no details) and that the only option I have is to replace the battery. $15K for a refurbished battery that will give 'similar' range as my old car with no guarantee on what the range will be until they replace it. Warranty is 4years/50k miles.
If I want to trade it in without the battery, they offered 4K. I hated the fact that after 9 years, the car basically becomes a brick with no way out but to pay premium for a refurb battery.
Put thought into this and guaging from the 1st battery experience, I will pay $15k/50k miles which seems very high for an EV. I would be better off getting an ICE just based on how long the next battery lasts. They should atleast offer the 400mile new battery to customers as an option or sell the battery for 10K or less. (Hoping they do this for all the folks who are going to lose warranty pretty soon)

HP
Assuming you got the 029/018 alert, your solution will likely depend on what you want to do with your car and your personal finances. My advice, and I'm just one person, is based on personally talking with hundreds of folks and my own experience. I don't profess to be the expert. So, unless you're mechanically inclined and comfortable around higher voltage - (1) If you love the car and want to keep it less than 3 years, either get a remanufactured pack replacement or fix of your current pack for $7k-$15k USD, (2) if you love your car and want to keep it for more than 3 years then get new pack from Tesla for $20k, (3) If you're done with Tesla and just want to walk away, sell your car for $7k-10k with known 029/018 alert. If you are mechanically inclined, then you can swap packs or attempt to repair your existing pack.
 
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