2016 Tesla Model X Project Car - 71k miles

[wk057]

I noted this car in another thread, but seemed to be more interest in this than the S's listed there, so, here we go.

2016 Tesla Model X
Originally a 90D, but could be a 75D, 90D, or 100D depending on what battery you want in it.
71k miles
Clean NC Title (NC Title Salvage Rebuilt, Edit: see note in post below)
Autopilot 1
6 Seat config (2+2+2)
Titanium Color
Black leather interior
Air suspension
Falcon doors work fine
Coolant and A/C systems still closed and intact

Pics here: 2016 X For Sale
(Takes forever to post multiple pics on here... pardon the disaster, we're moving a bunch of stuff around to re-organize. Yes, the Eldorado is gorgeous and is also for sale if that's more your thing... )

It's a project car for sure. No airbags deployed (hit while parked it seems), and appears to have no structural damage or damage requiring any welding or anything... making repairs exponentially simpler, since everything required for the repair should be bolt-on (except the windshield). I estimated it'd be $10k or so in parts to get the front back together. Mainly labor time to do it all.

With a battery installed the car drives. I drove it into the shop when we got it, much to my surprise. We bought it for the battery and motors and planned to queue it to strip it down completely for parts. But once it got here and turned out it was actually a relatively simple repair (just time consuming) we decided to just put the battery pack in our normal process queue and sit the car pending a decision on it. Unfortunately we don't tend to stock a ton of Model X parts because they tend to auction for double S prices, so we don't strip as many down for parts. We probably have enough parts to build 20+ Model S from scratch, but not many X specific parts, especially cosmetic stuff.

I'd love for us to just fix it and sell it ourselves, but we just don't have the manpower to do it right now. As you can probably tell from the pics, we've got our hands full. Better for someone else with the time take the reigns on that.

As it sits: $14k, pretty firm.

This is effectively at-cost (our purchase costs minus pack value). Any lower than that and I'd just let it sit for my guys to eventually fix up. Still plenty of room to make some money on this, or get an inexpensive X out of it.

We can source a pack for it and install it for you so that it's drivable under its own power again, if desired, or we can ship it wherever as it sits (tow mode).

I'll note there's at least a few people seriously interested and have already PM'd based on my quick post last night, but first come first serve.

Post any questions, or PM to buy.

 

[wk057]

Finally got the title back on this one, and successfully managed to keep it from being salvage branded under NC's repairs < 25% of market value rule.

So this is a clean title X, in case that makes this a more enticing project for someone.

 

[GammaDelta]

This is interesting. I just fixed up a 2015 P90D MS with front-end damage and it was fun project, but indeed very time-consuming. So you are looking for 14K for the X without a battery? How much with the 90D battery it come with?

 

[wk057]

This is interesting. I just fixed up a 2015 P90D MS with front-end damage and it was fun project, but indeed very time-consuming. So you are looking for 14K for the X without a battery? How much with the 90D battery it come with?

As noted, price is as-is, no battery pack. The 90 battery it originally had was removed and put into our processing queue, as this is what we originally purchased the vehicle for. So that pack is long gone.

We can get a replacement pack installed for it if it's something you're wanting to do. Would be at least $15k more for a replacement pack (probably a 75) and more for a 90 and much more for a 100. Not going to post exact prices for packs anymore because then people find ancient posts with old prices and expect us to sell them things at many-years-old prices or one-time-deal prices.

Have been going back and forth with a handful of people on this particular car, so I'm guessing someone is going to go with it eventually.

 

[wk057]

Had a buyer for this car who gave me the run-around and wasted my time.

So, it's back.

$13k and it's yours. Running out of space for future project cars and this one needs to go.

 

[brainhouston]

Seems overpriced for no pack and with $15k+ pack... (unless clean title really means that much to someone...)
Looks like it was this car:

VIN: 5YJXCBE27GF021788 | TESLA MODEL X 2016 car history - Stat.vin

Car history TESLA MODEL X 2016 Pewter ➡️ VIN code: 5YJXCBE27GF021788 Auction IAAI USA ✔️ Sale status: Sold ➡️ Lot number: 34941797 - Stat.vin

stat.vin

100Ds with small damage go for ~$20k now.. prices have dropped a lot since Jan price drops...
Here's one recently ($19k+auction fees):

VIN: 5YJXCBE26HF052502 | TESLA MODEL X 2017 car history - Stat.vin

Car history TESLA MODEL X 2017 WHITE ➡️ VIN code: 5YJXCBE26HF052502 Auction COPART USA ✔️ Sale status: Sold ➡️ Lot number: 42516503 - Stat.vin

stat.vin

 

[wk057]

100Ds with small damage go for ~$20k now.. prices have dropped a lot since Jan price drops...
Here's one recently ($19k+auction fees):

VIN: 5YJXCBE26HF052502 | TESLA MODEL X 2017 car history - Stat.vin

Car history TESLA MODEL X 2017 WHITE ➡️ VIN code: 5YJXCBE26HF052502 Auction COPART USA ✔️ Sale status: Sold ➡️ Lot number: 42516503 - Stat.vin

stat.vin

A CoPart car from anywhere in California (or WA, NV, AZ, UT... anywhere out west) with no airbags blown that's not listed as a run and drive is a 100% scam car. Pack is probably gone or stripped, or motors gone, etc. So yeah, no.

The 100s are still going for ridiculous amounts of money on legit auctions. Might be a handful that go for lower that might be repairable, but generally no still.

Seems overpriced for no pack and with $15k+ pack... (unless clean title really means that much to someone...)

Not really.

First, at the auctions you're taking on a ton of risk buying a car. A larger percentage of the cars we end up have bad batteries, bad motors, etc than you'd think. We'd know. I buy at least one a week most of the time. So you can't assume everything is good. Pack from this car was on its last leg, also. I drove it in, but we had to strip down the battery. 90s that sit dead at auction for months are generally in really bad shape.

Second, this car needs no structural or welded repairs as far as I can tell. Someone just needs to get a parts list together on what it needs, buy them, and bolt them on. Presto.

Plus, it's got an unbranded title. So, Tesla shouldn't be disabling supercharging, or heck even voiding any remaining warranty technically. IANAL, but there's a case to be made that this car would still have a drive unit warranty until 2024.

If no one buys it, I'll eventually just have my guys fix it. I just don't have the bandwidth for it at the moment and figured someone else would want the project.

$13k car + ~$15k pack (your number, not mine) + maybe $10k parts/DIY repair = $38k cost for a car that's still selling for over $50k. Seems like a no-brainer to me, especially if you're getting it for yourself.

At $13k I'm basically giving it away. The motors + a few misc parts alone are worth more than that to me.

 

[brainhouston]

A CoPart car from anywhere in California (or WA, NV, AZ, UT... anywhere out west) with no airbags blown that's not listed as a run and drive is a 100% scam car. Pack is probably gone or stripped, or motors gone, etc. So yeah, no.

Not true. I got a CA 90D, only reason it was NOT Run&Drive is Pin to Drive...
Yes there's some "scam" esp in LA where ppl fix up the car to look better n put it back on auction but now days u can research n see all the history...
My family been buying many diff cars from Copart n IAAI, never a problem.
FYI, Copart/IAAI already caught up to EVs, they specifically list if HV battery is missing, i've seen it in few auctions already.

First, at the auctions you're taking on a ton of risk buying a car. A larger percentage of the cars we end up have bad batteries, bad motors, etc than you'd think. We'd know. I buy at least one a week most of the time. So you can't assume everything is good. Pack from this car was on its last leg, also. I drove it in, but we had to strip down the battery. 90s that sit dead at auction for months are generally in really bad shape.

I don't doubt ur experience but i got a 90d n its fine. Current water ingress issue in my other thread is my own fault for not checking the plugs after accident.

Plus, it's got an unbranded title. So, Tesla shouldn't be disabling supercharging, or heck even voiding any remaining warranty technically. IANAL, but there's a case to be made that this car would still have a drive unit warranty until 2024.

Tesla doesn't care about title. If accident is on CarFax n such, it'll get SC disabled n warranty cancelled. Someone on here posted about that experience.
Pretty sure auction sales get reported to CarFax as well...

$13k car + ~$15k pack (your number, not mine) + maybe $10k parts/DIY repair = $38k cost for a car that's still selling for over $50k. Seems like a no-brainer to me, especially if you're getting it for yourself.

Since we talking numbers, my X costed me ~40k back in May of 2022 when prices were high (also 10k in parts/diy)
FYI, 15k was ur number not mine, read ur own post above lol
Here's a '18 100d sold for $45k

2018 Tesla Model X 100D - Dual-Motor AWD, Premium White 6-Seat Interior, Satin Dark Gray Wrap

This 2018 Tesla Model X 100D is for sale on Cars & Bids! Auction ends March 22 2023.

carsandbids.com

No way 90d cost 50k right now...

Anyways, this is just my opinion, u as a seller can do whatever u want

 

[wk057]

FYI, Copart/IAAI already caught up to EVs, they specifically list if HV battery is missing, i've seen it in few auctions already.

I've seen this exactly one time in 7 years buying these cars regularly. Again, I buy around at least one a week. Sometimes more. You're not doing that, so your one-off experience (or even a few, no clue what you do) doesn't really measure up to that.

CoPart specifically is a cesspool. They couldn't give a damn if the car has a battery or not.

In fact, CoPart is such garbage that we've bought a car from CoPart that said "run and drive", sent a regular trusted hauler to pick it up, and a) it doesn't drive, b) doesn't even turn on with a jump, and c) doesn't even have a motor, so how could it "drive"?

I've gone to personally inspect a couple of CoPart cars that also were "Run and Drive", one where the battery was stripped and another that had no battery at all.

Suffice it to say I generally avoid CoPart these days.

IAAI will usually try to note something like "mechanical" damage or "stripped" if it's missing the battery pack at least, but no guarantees there either. At least it's not as much of a hellhole as CoPart, though.

I don't doubt ur experience but i got a 90d n its fine. Current water ingress issue in my other thread is my own fault for not checking the plugs after accident.

I mean, it's either "fine" or it's not. Sounds like "not fine" to me if it has water in it. It's an auction car. Not like you can go over there and drop the pack to fully inspect it before buying it. Just by nature of the beast you're going to get burned occasionally. We buy enough where we can and must factor that in.

Tesla doesn't care about title. If accident is on CarFax n such, it'll get SC disabled n warranty cancelled. Someone on here posted about that experience.
Pretty sure auction sales get reported to CarFax as well...

There's plenty of clean title cars at auction. You mean if I sell my car at auction Tesla will disable supercharging? Or because the car was in a repairable accident? I'd sue them in a second.

FYI, 15k was ur number not mine, read ur own post above lol

I thought we were talking about a 90. I said "at least $15k" and probably for a 75.

Anyways, this is just my opinion, u as a seller can do whatever u want

No worries, I'll be sure to chime in on your sale threads with anecdotal information and opinions on why people shouldn't buy what you're offering when I see them as well!