islandbayy
Active Member
I will second that, accelerating onto the freeway.Yes, anecdotal evidence is that many of the pack failures accompany full-throttle events. Mine happened just as I mashed the pedal to pass on a two-lane road.
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I will second that, accelerating onto the freeway.Yes, anecdotal evidence is that many of the pack failures accompany full-throttle events. Mine happened just as I mashed the pedal to pass on a two-lane road.
I have an early, original, Sig, A battery with 24,000 miles, and am planning an extended west coast road trip for Thanksgiving.
Should I be concerned, wary, etc?
My guess would be resistance develops at the contact point inside one of the contactors. That higher than normal resistance becomes heat. Therefore when at full amps it sees full heat. That heating may lead to more resistance. Suddenly poof... contacts melt and contactor opens up. Considering how many amps the pack can put out, it doesn't take much resistance across the contactor to make it fail.
The 'clunk' might actually be an 'unclunk' since likely the relay (contactor) spring is returning it to the OFF position due to operation outside of normal parameters. But that begs the question: where is the clunk when the car is turned ON or shifted out of P or N? Do we hear this?
Redundancy could be built in by use of duplicate control circuitry, twin relays, etc to keep the car going: "Car is now being controlled by Circuit B - please visit Service asap." Finding space for this inside the existing batt packs will be a challenge however. But any future redesign should allow it.
Redundancy of Power Units has been answered with the AWD "D" which can limp home using either front or rear unit if one should fail to produce power. Looking for a good excuse to go AWD??
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The 'clunk' might actually be an 'unclunk' since likely the relay (contactor) spring is returning it to the OFF position due to operation outside of normal parameters. But that begs the question: where is the clunk when the car is turned ON or shifted out of P or N? Do we hear this?
Redundancy could be built in by use of duplicate control circuitry, twin relays, etc to keep the car going: "Car is now being controlled by Circuit B - please visit Service asap." Finding space for this inside the existing batt packs will be a challenge however. But any future redesign should allow it.
Redundancy of Power Units has been answered with the AWD "D" which can limp home using either front or rear unit if one should fail to produce power. Looking for a good excuse to go AWD??
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I suspect that the contacts stay closed all the time in normal operation -- there seems no need for them to open unless there is a fault condition detected. However, if indeed the contractors close when you touch the break pedal to "start" the car, there is no noticeable "clunk" because there is very little current flowing at that time.
I would ratify what others have said. Have it in the back of your head that if the car goes clunk you will need to find a safe place to glide it in to to park, and place the car into "tow mode"/Neutral right away and then chock the wheels. Mine took a few tries till the rear brakes released and I couldn't get it to raise the car up every. If you really want to be proactive kick the car in neutral once or twice to feel just how far it will go with no power (It holds it's speed damn well when coasting, I managed to complete a passing maneuver even though it failed half way through), and I would think twice about 80% or more acceleration when away from cell communications, we had a couple of mile hike to get back to cell service when ours went.
My guess would be a cell voltage droop and an overly sensitive trip which occurs when the vehicle accelerates.
I wonder if it happens at varying SOCs too, or only when low on charge?
You can hear contactors closing/opening when locking/unlocking the car with sleep mode enabled. It's obviously not as loud as the clunk, because there is no load.Most modern EVs I know anything about have the contactors open when shut off, though they may close it under remote control or computer guidance for HVAC and TMS operation. However, the vampire losses on the Tesla cars (something else most other EVs don't do) cause me to suspect that you're correct that Tesla has chosen to keep the HV battery live most of the time.
Walter
That's my guess. I've also wondered if marginal voltage or DC-DC converter power output in the 12V side is a contributing factor - the "squealing balloon" noise that some report on hard acceleration is said to come from the contactors, which I'm assuming must be moving slightly from the fully open position to induce the noise.
Walter
Now this is truly exceptional service. I commend Tesla Service. Although you got an A in return, be happy that it was showing 261 rated (just ask walla2 about his swap experience).
So why would that be dependent on vehicle age? A number of us used to have the squeal under load, but have since lost all sign of it. And I'm not quite sure I understand the 12 V argument either. The DC-DC converter doesn't draw much power at all compared to power required to accelerate the car - it's more like a drop in the bucket.
Do we know if these are actually solid state relays, as one would expect cutting edge tech to use? Maybe there is an old style relay in there just to make the noise and throw us all off?
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't a solid state relay just a glorified transistor? Do you know of any of those that can reliably hold 400V back against all failure modes?
Walter