Tesla Estimate

[Drizzaddy]

I bought a 2013 Tesla Model S P85+ with 82,000 miles on it. Black on black, with charcoal 21” turbine wheels. I’m the second owner. Had just had a new air suspension replacement under extended service warranty, new drive motor as well. Just finished new control arms, rotors and pads for front and back, four new tires, however, I unfortunately had to replace the 90kw HV Battery within 6 months of ownership at $19,000 added to the original price. The KBB for a car like this is upper $20k’s, however, I’m asking for a professional estimate with such new parts. Not sure if I’m going to sell just yet, but the budget to continue is going to be a squeeze!

I’d like to hear your thoughts, thanks a lot!

 

[jjrandorin]

The KBB for a car like this is upper $20k’s,

I’d like to hear your thoughts, thanks a lot!

Mine is, if you could actually get "Upper 20s" from someone you would be making out like a bandit. Fixing the car doesnt raise value. NOT fixing the car lowers it, but ensuring it runs properly doesnt mean you get to charge more than other similar vehicles.

 

[DerbyDave]

The only possible increase in value over other running Teslas of the same model may be that the replacement HV battery you paid for is likely still under the 4 yr 50K miles Tesla Replacement Parts warranty. Selling the car to someone with a warranty still active on the most expensive replacement part may be a selling point, but not much added value.

 

[Drizzaddy]

Mine is, if you could actually get "Upper 20s" from someone you would be making out like a bandit. Fixing the car doesnt raise value. NOT fixing the car lowers it, but ensuring it runs properly doesnt mean you get to charge more than other similar vehicles.

You mean making out like a bandit as in upper 20s is unreasonable to ask? Or as in it’s far too low? But I do understand the roll of the dice on “assuming” the condition of the vehicle based on charge cycles. Thanks man!

 

[Drizzaddy]

The only possible increase in value over other running Teslas of the same model may be that the replacement HV battery you paid for is likely still under the 4 yr 50K miles Tesla Replacement Parts warranty. Selling the car to someone with a warranty still active on the most expensive replacement part may be a selling point, but not much added value.

Nice point, I have the warranty still active and it’s probably a good pivot point for sale. But would you think upper 30s would be too much?

 

[jjrandorin]

You mean making out like a bandit as in upper 20s is unreasonable to ask? Or as in it’s far too low? But I do understand the roll of the dice on “assuming” the condition of the vehicle based on charge cycles. Thanks man!

I apologize, I thought what I was posting was clear but "make out like a bandit" is a somewhat old timey expression. Let me try again.

I dont think that car is worth "upper 20s", so if someone was willing to pay you "upper 20s" for it, my opinion is you should jump to accept.

But would you think upper 30s would be too much?

To me. "upper 20s" is too much if "upper 20s" means "$27-29k", so yes, my opinion is upper 30s is completely out of line, but its not my car its yours, and something is worth whatever people will pay.

It also appears to me that there is a disconnect between what both myself and @DerbyDave said, and what you appear to be reading. @DerbyDave said:

Selling the car to someone with a warranty still active on the most expensive replacement part may be a selling point, but not much added value.

Which means " it makes your car more desirable but you cant charge much extra, if you can charge extra at all". Your reply, was:

Nice point, I have the warranty still active and it’s probably a good pivot point for sale. But would you think upper 30s would be too much?

Which, when combined with your previous statement that you found similar cars online for "upper 20s" seems to imply that you think it adds 10k additional value.

If you do, thats up to you, but neither of us mentioned anything like that. I certainly am not putting myself forward as an expert, just answering the question of "opinions?" and ensuring that this is not a "soft for sale" thread since all for sale activity goes in the marketplace.

 

[Drizzaddy]

no, I’ll be honest space cadet, your “logical” assumptions of what youre hoping I was intending goes above and beyond the truth of the matter. I was simply asking for a reasonable bearing range to expect given the original value and if new parts changed that, given it’s rare to find a private sale of an unlimited supercharging vehicle with a brand new drive motor and HV battery under warranty. Anyways, I’m convinced you took your point home and then some, just a simple probe for basic info among a community.

 

[Fgpalmer71]

I'm in a somewhat similar situation. 2014 Model S 60, green, pretty phenomenal condition. It's currently at the service center for ANOTHER LDU replacement (they've had it since 11/21 and it's been tons of excuses, multiple estimates from the original $6200 to $9200 and all points in between), out of warranty this time of course. When I bought it a couple of years ago the plan was always to sell it in 2024 and replace it with a 2018 or newer P100D or a new Model 3 Performance. Now, this $9k out of pocket expense is consuming the $ I had set aside for the 2024 purchase. But as soon as I get it back I'm selling it pronto. The HV battery seems to be in good shape, but I can't be into this 2014 for $60k. (Original purchase price + everything else).

I don't think that you'll be able to get high 20's. The replacement LDU that I'm having installed in my car is really money lost. I'm basically setting fire to $9k.....I'll never see it again. My hope is to list it for the top of the KBB, and the additional warranty will make it more attractive when cross shopped against a similar car the prospective buyer might be considering. I'm crossing my fingers that the FUSC, jump seats, tech package, etc will do the same. Last I checked the "book" on my car was about $18k. If I get stuck with a HV battery replacement I don't think that I could ask $33k ($18k + 15k HV replacement cost) and get it. Both of our cars are older, no cameras or the features associated with them, etc. We're competing against newer cars when we sell ours.

If your car is in great shape cosmetically, based on what I'm seeing in the used Tesla market, I'd think low 20's would be a reasonable place to start. Maybe even list it for $25k and market the battery, LDU and other replacements and associated warranties, while also pointing out the FUSC and possible $4k tax credit might get it done. The prospective buyer would be getting it for ~ $21k with a new battery, LDU and what not WITH warranty coverage. But I think your setting that $15k HV replacement money on fire JUST like I'm doing with my LDU $. It's way harder for either of us to move an inoperable car though, so it's kinda $ we HAVE to burn unfortunately.

My biggest fear for resale is listing it too high to start with. Inevitably, the longer it sits on the market and the more we reduce the price, the more people will wonder to themselves "what's wrong with THAT one?".

Good luck with it. I for one feel your pain. I'm not in HV replacement land right now, but this $9k hit hurts about as bad as $15k would've.

EDIT: I had $15k in my mind for your HV replacement cost.....it's really $19k. Damn. My fault.

 

[cbdream99]

With the newly replaced parts, you can probably sell it in mid 20s. The parts you replaced are just to make the cars in working order, without it the price will be much lower. While FUSC is good and rare but it is also rare to find someone who really needs it, drives a lot and ok to have a slower charge rate. A new low end 3 can be purchased with not much more, with warranty, better everything inside and out or one can pay more for a more recent model or even buy a new hybrid. Someone posted on another thread, 17 S in the mid 20s range.

The 13-15 models have more problems than the newer models, even if you have replaced the major parts, the bad perceptions won't go away and there are still other expensive parts that can break including the suspensions, DU and they won't have any warranty for the new owner, it only gives a little warm and fuzzy feelings for potential buyer or it can go the other way, a car that has so many parts replaced with only 80k, what's next? After all, your car is already 10 years old. If you have an extended warranty (XCare?) that extends a few more years into future and transferrable, that may give you more leverages.

 

[Fgpalmer71]

The 13-15 models have more problems than the newer models, even if you have replaced the major parts, the bad perceptions won't go away and there are still other expensive parts that can break including the suspensions, DU and they won't have any warranty for the new owner, it only gives a little warm and fuzzy feelings for potential buyer or it can go the other way, a car that has so many parts replaced with only 80k, what's next?

Tesla service center has been telling me that the 4yr/50k warranty I'm getting with my replaced LDU is fully transferable.....are they misleading me? I JUST got an alert that my car is ready and will be picking it up tomorrow. I fully intend to detail it this weekend, take some quality pics, and list it for sale immediately. I've been thinking that I'd be doing so with the caveat that the LDU was replaced AND it'd be coming with a fresh 4yr/50k warranty!!

 

[cbdream99]

Tesla service center has been telling me that the 4yr/50k warranty I'm getting with my replaced LDU is fully transferable.....are they misleading me? I JUST got an alert that my car is ready and will be picking it up tomorrow. I fully intend to detail it this weekend, take some quality pics, and list it for sale immediately. I've been thinking that I'd be doing so with the caveat that the LDU was replaced AND it'd be coming with a fresh 4yr/50k warranty!!

Sorry, you are correct. Both DU and HV battery carries a 4 yrs/50k warranty.


The Tesla Parts, Body & Paint Repair Limited Warranty begins on the purchase date of the part(s), and coverage extends for a period of 12 months or 12,500 miles, which ever comes first. Specific categories of parts have unique warranty coverage periods:

• Sheet metal: Limited lifetime
• Drive Unit*: 4 years or 50,000 miles, whichever comes first
• Vehicle High Voltage Battery*: 4 years or 50,000 miles, whichever comes first
• Wall Connectors: 4 years
• Touchscreen and Media Control Unit: 2 years or 25,000 miles, whichever comes first

 

[maximizese]

Wowsers! I had no idea how low the Model S has fallen on the resale market. Last I checked 2 years ago, the market price was around $35K-$40K, but I suppose the pandemic induced supply-chain pricing has changed and the newer Model S cars are also pressuring the prices of the less advanced versions to go cheaper. In my mind, a used out of warranty Tesla's worth is tied to the risk of component failure costs and inconvenience factor of having to have it repairs. Therefore a warranty is worth quite a bit when you consider the costs of an HV battery, DU, A/C system, suspension components, etc. It sounds like you've pretty much had the bad luck of all those going bad and I'd be curious to know if the car is better than when new considering all those components seemed to prematurely fail.

If I were in the market for a lower-tech but faster charging Model S, I would pay as much as $30K for car with FUSC; $39K if it had a warranty. That's just me and I'm sure other opinions will vary but I'm basing it on the utility value I see in the car and how I'd use it.

 

[Fgpalmer71]

If I were in the market for a lower-tech but faster charging Model S, I would pay as much as $30K for car with FUSC; $39K if it had a warranty. That's just me and I'm sure other opinions will vary but I'm basing it on the utility value I see in the car and how I'd use it.

I JUST picked up my 2014 Model S 60 from the SC 30 min ago, fresh off of a LDU replacement. It's the revised "U" variant.

Might I interest you or someone you know that's like you in a beautiful green Model S, with tan interior, tech package, jump seats, new tires..drive unit...rear suspension (all of it), FUSC and data? I'd TAKE $39k...but would make it irresistible @ $25k!!!???

Lol...I gotta try!