removed door panel closed door can not open

[dedicatedtek]

while trying to find and fix an issue with passenger side door controls, I removed my front passenger inside door panel, disconnected it, and set it aside.

I then closed the door (thinking I could open it from the inside with the inside handle wire cable). Now I can't open the door.

the outside door handles do not present (one of the issues I was trying to fix).

this is a 2015 Model S.

any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

 

[dedicatedtek]

(bump) any suggestions ?

 

[NewbyMaybe]

Use a wire that will fit into the plug for the inside release, put the other end into the other hole in the plug. A bread twisty with the metal ends stripped will work.

 

[dedicatedtek]

Use a wire that will fit into the plug for the inside release, put the other end into the other hole in the plug. A bread twisty with the metal ends stripped will work.

thank you for replying.....I'm not quite following though...

where is the "plug" for the inside release ? Do you mean the cable that looks like one for a bicycle brake ?

 

[KalJoMoS]

Yes, I had difficulties to inderstand how can’t you open the door manually? On Model S they are manually operated as well electrically. There is shiny metal cable from the handle inside to the latch on the door. If you removed the door panel then you must have removed the cable from the panel. Just pull it (even by hand will do) and it should open. On rear doors the manual cable end is hided behind floor carpet at the very front edge of rear seat, right where the side passenger heels are. To open the rear doors manually you need to pull that cable towards the other side of the vehicle.

edit: you can close the door if the outer handle is removed (for weather protection), that cable will allow to open if needed…

 

[dedicatedtek]

I guess I'll have to try and pull that cable harder.....thanks. I will post back and let you know.

 

[NewbyMaybe]

It's the one that's in the middle. YouTube has plenty on the doors, your paddle gear probably broke.

 

[dedicatedtek]

It's the one that's in the middle. YouTube has plenty on the doors, your paddle gear probably broke.

oh . you want me to "jump" the electrical connector with a wire. now I get it. thanks.

 

[dedicatedtek]

I am able to pull on the metal cable to open the door from the inside. So at least there's that.
After inspecting the wiring, I don't see any breaks (of course, I could just not be seeing it)

When I do open the door by pulling the cable, the window does the roll down partial to clear the seal. And when I close the door, window moves back up into seal to close all the way.

I've ordered a used door control unit from ebay that has the same part number. It should be here in a couple days.

in the mean time, my driver's side handles stay out / extended / presented. handles will not retract (ugh)

driver's side mirror will fold / unfold. but not passenger side.

i've reset several times with steering wheel buttons. I've done "power off" vehicle. I've moved the car in and out of the garage.

hopefully swapping out the door control unit will resolve.

 

[KalJoMoS]

I've ordered a used door control unit from ebay that has the same part number. It should be here in a couple days.

hopefully swapping out the door control unit will resolve.

If you succeed to swap it then remember, you also need to upload current SW again to reset the “new to car” unit to be known by the system. There is dedicated section in the Service menu for this.

 

[NewbyMaybe]

The wires can break at the grommet going into the b-pillar.

 

[dedicatedtek]

If you succeed to swap it then remember, you also need to upload current SW again to reset the “new to car” unit to be known by the system. There is dedicated section in the Service menu for this.

Is it the service menu option " software install " ? or do you know ?
Do I do this step AFTER plugging in the "new" control unit ?

 

[KalJoMoS]

Yes, you can make the physical change and then in the “service” menu re-deploy current SW. There are two options. I haven't yet done this but this is necessary if new units are installed. That full new might take longer…

 

[dedicatedtek]

I received the replacement unit. I physically installed / swapped it, plugged in all the wires.
Then went to the Service - Software Install, and I see 4 options: FULL, CAN ECU, DAS, and IC.

I'm sure it's not IC, but would it be CAN ECU or DAS ? Or should I do FULL (i'm guessing this would wipe all my settings) ?

(I think DAS might mean 'Driver Assist' ??)

thanks.

 

[KalJoMoS]

This is the section in the manual that I referred to (see photo). If under the service menu was only “Software Install” option then I would use that CAN ECU option. My point for two option was either partial or full install. Havent yet preformed this myself but will need in near future to get rear passenger side handle to work.

p.s. it seems you have leaking MCU, right?

 

[dedicatedtek]

update....I proceeded to run the CAN software install/update and it errored saying there was already an update running, to wait until it was finished. sure enough I had a Navigation download in process......

 

[dedicatedtek]

aargh....the Nav install seems stalled now for several days. I've rebooted car at least twice, and I've turned off my home wifi, and rebooted the car, and still the CAN software will not proceed because the Nav software is stuck. I do not see any way to get the nav to finish or cancel.
View attachment 1030274View attachment 1030274

 

[KalJoMoS]

Your car might be in that download limbo if the internal memory of the MCU is full. I had this too, I got the recall done and during that fix Tesla had similar issues to upload new map update to the car. Eventually I had to bring the car to service twice to fix that. They made internal change for the navigation database and added external card reader. so all my navigation data is currently stored out of the MCU.
Have you tried to make the hard restart by disconnecting that Fireman’s loop and 12V in the frunk? It might help to disregard that continues downloading and you can get the installation going. Can’t say for sure but worth to try. Before that have you cleaned up your navigation history?

 

[dedicatedtek]

My MCU recall was done awhile ago. I thought about disconnecting the 12v, but at this point, I've just put in a call for service. They've scheduled it about 2 weeks out (soonest available at the closest service center). Thanks for your help and suggestions. I will update this thread when something changes or after service.