Yes, stickier tires reduce range, but not with distance (which is what I was getting at.)
For the other, my assumption was that you were comparing from new, rather than from a point in time.
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Yes, stickier tires reduce range, but not with distance (which is what I was getting at.)
For the other, my assumption was that you were comparing from new, rather than from a point in time.
steilkurve
Member
Ok. Went back to charging at 90% for the last two days. First night it ended up lower than before. Second night it climbed back up to almost the max I had always experienced. So, I'm assuming it is cell balancing.
deonb
Active Member
The algorithm is rocket surgery.
Imagine you're being told to fill up a cup until it's 90% full, then emptying it partially again, then filling it up to 90% again. Only... the size of the cup keeps changing, and you have no way to know by how much.
Every now and again someone throw you a bone, and you're allowed to fill the cup up to 100%, at which point you can actually measure the cup size, but then you go back to 90% purgatory.
travwill
Active Member
Yeah, the amount of contact with road and the weight are what affects mileage (and then down to the type of tire), bit it is really minimal - maybe .5% of a full charge or so I bet.
mknox
Well-Known Member
For me, the Rated Miles have been very consistent albeit gradually declining. For some reason, I have never, ever seen any of the bumps up or down in Rated Miles whenever there is a firmware update as other have reported. Not sure why, but there won't be so much as a 1 mile change between the day before and the day after a firmware update. This has always puzzled me since so many others have reported significant changes with firmware updates.
Having said that, Ideal Miles might be a better indicator, and I'm going to start to make note of what I see there. I usually don't set the car to Ideal because it isn't very helpful in day-to-day use.
I have charged to 100% three times in the last week and drove the car down to near zero twice - once to zero miles, once to 4 miles. I am still seeing 255 rated miles at 100%, but my 90% charged dropped by a mile to 227. At least in my case, the advice to run the car down and charge back up to 100% a few times hasn't yielded any gain in range. I have a B pack. I recently saw someone post in a FB group that their B pack with 50,000 miles still gets 265-268 rated miles on a full charge. I'm annoyed! lol
FWIW, Dec 2013 build, D pack, 28,000+ miles (45,000+ km), my 90% RM is 227, has been for several months. I charged to 99% last week at a supercharger for the first time in 8-9 months (so, not letting any balancing occur - that wasn't deliberate, just happened to be when we were ready to go from a rest stop). I can't remember the RM when we left, but it wasn't anywhere near the 264 new. I've been feeling mine is on the low side, given the numbers I've seen others post here.
On the other hand, my hopeful worst-case 100% charge scenario I'm mentally preparing for is 80% after another 10 years, i.e. a new S60's (what's that??) range, with of course supercharger build-out to levels that will make the lower full range irrelevant.
On the other hand, my hopeful worst-case 100% charge scenario I'm mentally preparing for is 80% after another 10 years, i.e. a new S60's (what's that??) range, with of course supercharger build-out to levels that will make the lower full range irrelevant.
Gizmotoy
Active Member
Being able to quantify powertrain degradation like this is going to change the used car market. You could have an ICE operating at reduced capacity, but it'd be almost impossible to discern. In an EV, while the math behind it may be tough, it's much easier for the owner/buyer. 265-255=~4% loss. That's a number you can easily compare to other vehicles under consideration.
I charge to 90% and get 229 regularly @ 13k miles, so you're not alone in having a good chunk of loss.
MichFin
Member
I'm so confused now... I have an 85D for 2 weeks... I drive the cat 5-10 miles a day and 70 miles a day on weekends.
What should I charge to every day (90%)?
Battery conditioning... Does that help battery longevity or just to show max miles?
What should I charge to every day (90%)?
Battery conditioning... Does that help battery longevity or just to show max miles?
IMHO: don't worry.
There are threads on TMC that go into enormous detail about what is good and isn't good for the battery. However, the impression I have gotten is that Tesla has put an enormous amount of effort into trying to make sure the Model S battery pack can be used by non-experts.
If you can plug it in every day, go for it (I can't in my condo, so, I plug in about once or twice a week as I need to, depending on usage - which for me, would be any time I have 50-100 miles left). I normally charge to 80% unless I'm going on a trip (then it's either 90%, or 100% just prior to leaving if I need the range).
Your battery *will* have some degradation. But your car will still be usable as a car for years, and years, and years.
My strategy is to peel off the 85 and replace it with 80 on the rear when selling the car, tell the buyer I've used up 5 of the battery and now they've got 80 left for the remaining life of the car, and that's what I've taken into consideration as depreciation in my selling price.. "factored that in already" and just watch the look on their face. If they get all questiony about it, I quiz him and ask why people selling ICE cars don't stick a gas tank capacity on the rear of their cars, and suggest maybe they should.
SDRick
Active Member
I have a 80 amp circuit (actually slightly higher amperage on the circuit per code) for the HPWC, but I normally run it at 70 amps to stay below the capacity of the circuit.
SDRick
Active Member
Although my top charging capacity is only 48 A, I sometimes charge at 30 A as I notice I gain one or two percentage points and efficiency at the lower rate.
Have you noticed what your charging efficiency is at 70 A?
Have you noticed what your charging efficiency is at 70 A?
Sorry, I have not calculated charging efficiency at 70A, but everything I have read on the forums indicates that the cars are most efficient charging at higher amperages due to charging overhead taking up some of the incoming current (which is a larger percentage of the total when charging at lower amperages).
Edit. I forgot that Teslafi tracks efficiency, so I checked for home and it says that my average charging efficiency is 91.58% which will be almost entirely at 70A. I may occasionally bump it to 80A if I am in a hurry, but not too often.
Also, I charged at a destination charger recently that was set for 12A (what's up with that?!?!?) and my efficiency at that HPWC was 79.2%.
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SDRick
Active Member
I just checked Teslafi historical and could not see a definitive trend. Efficiency jumped around between 89% and 93% regardless of amperage charge rate. I thought I was achieving a slight gain in efficiency at around 30 to 35 A but there is too much variation in the data to make that claim.
My next effort will be trying to regain about 9 miles of loss by balancing the pack.
My next effort will be trying to regain about 9 miles of loss by balancing the pack.
I haven't heard the words "balancing the pack" in a long while.
Always wondered if that was really a thing. I mean, did it cause any lasting effect on battery cells to retain energy or release it differently... on a cell-to-cell basis, or was it just a software perception reset of relearning what "full" really means..
Sometimes I run my car down to sub 5% SOC and sometimes I charge it up to 100%. As far as I know, as soon as 100% is hit.. the BMS just stops charging (no more flashing green port) and you get a disconnect.
Maybe it takes "forever" to hit 100% and it flashes green indefinitely... I forget. So seldom try for 100.
I have a gut feel that doing full range sweeps like this on occasion is good for cleaning out the cobwebs in the cells, and software tracking parameters monitoring the pack.
Always wondered if that was really a thing. I mean, did it cause any lasting effect on battery cells to retain energy or release it differently... on a cell-to-cell basis, or was it just a software perception reset of relearning what "full" really means..
Sometimes I run my car down to sub 5% SOC and sometimes I charge it up to 100%. As far as I know, as soon as 100% is hit.. the BMS just stops charging (no more flashing green port) and you get a disconnect.
Maybe it takes "forever" to hit 100% and it flashes green indefinitely... I forget. So seldom try for 100.
I have a gut feel that doing full range sweeps like this on occasion is good for cleaning out the cobwebs in the cells, and software tracking parameters monitoring the pack.
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