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Hello model s owners :) just joined a club. I got 2016 refresh model 75d, and it took 10% of battery on just 12 miles, is it ok? I tought it drives mo

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I tought it
drives more and range on 85% charge was 186
miles, so this miles are fake or how it all works?
OK, a couple of things about that:

1. Look, that number there is called "RATED miles". It's not exact actual distance miles in all conditions and all times and all speeds for all drivers. That's a unit of energy, and it can't always be 1:1 with someone's real miles if they are driving 30 mph or 130 mph. Those have vastly different consumption rates. So it's "rated miles", because it's just a generic value as the EPA does its testing method. And we know that EPA testing procedures are kind of like someone's timid nearsighted granny drives. It's very mild, and most people tend to speed, which uses up that energy faster than the EPA tests are made for. So you're usually going to use up those rated miles faster than the real miles.

2. Also, it's simply energy. ALL of the energy use in the car has to come from that. If you just sit in your driveway in January with the heater running, it's going to use up some of that, and you're going to say, "Why did it use up 4 miles when I drove 0 miles?" Well, that energy has to provide HEAT + miles of driving. So in Winter, it's especially going to use those up faster than your real distance miles because of the extra heating consumption.

So yeah, all this is just the way it is.

Now here's the upside of this coin. You see this more because electric motors are so incredibly efficient (like 90%), so they're up on a pedestal, so any extra consumption drags them down immediately where you notice it. Combustion engines are so pathetic, they are constantly dumping two thirds of the energy of the gasoline out the tailpipe and radiator, so extra drag and inefficiency is lost in the noise and hard to notice. In the Summer, without that heavy consumption of heating, you will notice efficiency looking better.
 
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OK, a couple of things about that:

1. Look, that number there is called "RATED miles". It's not exact actual distance miles in all conditions and all times and all speeds for all drivers. That's a unit of energy, and it can't always be 1:1 with someone's real miles if they are driving 30 mph or 130 mph. Those have vastly different consumption rates. So it's "rated miles", because it's just a generic value as the EPA does its testing method. And we know that EPA testing procedures are kind of like someone's timid nearsighted granny drives. It's very mild, and most people tend to speed, which uses up that energy faster than the EPA tests are made for. So you're usually going to use up those rated miles faster than the real miles.

2. Also, it's simply energy. ALL of the energy use in the car has to come from that. If you just sit in your driveway in January with the heater running, it's going to use up some of that, and you're going to say, "Why did it use up 4 miles when I drove 0 miles?" Well, that energy has to provide HEAT + miles of driving. So in Winter, it's especially going to use those up faster than your real distance miles because of the extra heating consumption.

So yeah, all this is just the way it is.

Now here's the upside of this coin. You see this more because electric motors are so incredibly efficient (like 90%), so they're up on a pedestal, so any extra consumption drags them down immediately where you notice it. Combustion engines are so pathetic, they are constantly dumping two thirds of the energy of the gasoline out the tailpipe and radiator, so extra drag and inefficiency is lost in the noise and hard to notice. In the Summer, without that heavy consumption of heating, you will notice efficiency looking better.
Thanks for detaild answer, I read somewhere that calibrations of battery could also increase a milage, is this correct?
 
Thanks for detaild answer, I read somewhere that calibrations of battery could also increase a milage, is this correct?
Well, that's not doing anything to change the amount of energy in the battery. It's just that the car's algorithm sometimes gets fuzzy on estimating how much energy is there, so the calibration can help the software to try to "see" the upper and lower boundaries more to tune in the estimate. I don't think it's all that useful or relevant, except to make people feel better.
 
Hello model s owners :) just joined a club. I
got 2016 refresh model 75d, and it took 10%
of battery on just 12 miles, is it ok? I tought it
drives more and range on 85% charge was 186
miles, so this miles are fake or how it all works?

Before you buy any EV, like a Tesla, see what the car reports for rated range. On your 75D, there will be two settings that show range. One for rated and one for ideal. Don't look at ideal. Only rated.

Now look at both rated range and charge percent. You'll have to switch the settings to toggle between them. For example, if the rated range says 150 miles with a 75% charge, the fully charged rated range is 150 / 0.75 = 200. Now compare it what it is rated for when new, 259 miles for the 75D. If you come up with say 200 miles, then you'd have 23% degradation(an extreme example) and will want to steer clear of that car.

Hopefully the 12 miles you drove where it went down 10% is not a car you already own because you really want to nail this stuff down long before you make an offer.
 
Turn on range mode in the settings menu. Should make a big difference on a 2016.

It used to make a difference but Tesla mostly disabled it because the biggest increase in range mode came from not cooling the better when it got too warm resulting in accelerated degradation. Tesla eventually disabled this aspect of range mode and after that, it mad zero difference.
 
It used to make a difference but Tesla mostly disabled it because the biggest increase in range mode came from not cooling the better when it got too warm resulting in accelerated degradation. Tesla eventually disabled this aspect of range mode and after that, it mad zero difference.
It reduces when the battery heater kicks in as well, down to about -10*F. It also reduces cabin heating and cooling. I've been running Range Mode on since 2013 on all my Model S's and my Model X, it makes a HUGE difference. In the winter, it's the difference between loosing 30 miles range just taking the kids 3 miles to school, or using 5 miles range taking kids to school 3 miles (3 miles is round trip). The initial battery heating, sucks a massive amount of power.
I've noticed no difference in pack cooling. Both my Current vehicles, MS & MX, cook the crap out of the battery in the summer weather range mode is on or not, to the tune of 120*F+ and as high as 135*F while supercharging regardless of range mode on or off. Though the 85's and original 60's seem to be hard limited at 113*F regardless of range mode on or off.
Cabin heater uses ~2kw instead of 6kW (If you set the heat to 81*F instead of High, as High overrides the range mode). It did perfectly fine and we were warm and toasty last week at -12*F. As for summer and Air Conditioning, difference is ~1kW VS ~3-4kW. Still kept us freezing cold at 100*F+, likewise when I road tripped through Nevada and it was 120*F outside in the desert.
For the vehicles that still have Range Mode option, it can save a LOT of power. Definitely notice the range drop when I forget to turn Range Mode back on after shutting it off, such as in snow where I don't want the rear motor to torque sleep.
 
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I guess cold temperatures makes huge difference in range, as it got little bit hotter now is 40f it used on same range 7% instead of 10% also today I will increase psi in tires to normal, before it was 33psi because of cold weather, so let's see how psi will affect (from my knowledge it should affect) and one more thing, after I pushed to charge car to 100% it also affected range in a good way, I have no idea why just following battery calibration procedure to charge 100% couple times after it drai s to 20%
 
It reduces when the battery heater kicks in as well, down to about -10*F. It also reduces cabin heating and cooling. I've been running Range Mode on since 2013 on all my Model S's and my Model X, it makes a HUGE difference. In the winter, it's the difference between loosing 30 miles range just taking the kids 3 miles to school, or using 5 miles range taking kids to school 3 miles (3 miles is round trip). The initial battery heating, sucks a massive amount of power.
I've noticed no difference in pack cooling. Both my Current vehicles, MS & MX, cook the crap out of the battery in the summer weather range mode is on or not, to the tune of 120*F+ and as high as 135*F while supercharging regardless of range mode on or off. Though the 85's and original 60's seem to be hard limited at 113*F regardless of range mode on or off.
Cabin heater uses ~2kw instead of 6kW (If you set the heat to 81*F instead of High, as High overrides the range mode). It did perfectly fine and we were warm and toasty last week at -12*F. As for summer and Air Conditioning, difference is ~1kW VS ~3-4kW. Still kept us freezing cold at 100*F+, likewise when I road tripped through Nevada and it was 120*F outside in the desert.
For the vehicles that still have Range Mode option, it can save a LOT of power. Definitely notice the range drop when I forget to turn Range Mode back on after shutting it off, such as in snow where I don't want the rear motor to torque sleep.

In the 134K miles I drove my P85D before selling it, the only time it made any difference at all was when turning it on loosened the thermal management temperature range. After they turned this off, presumably to keep the batteries from degrading or needing to be replaced outright at a very slightly higher rate than with range mode turned off, it made no difference for me over the last 100K miles.
 
I guess cold temperatures makes huge difference in range, as it got little bit hotter now is 40f it used on same range 7% instead of 10% also today I will increase psi in tires to normal, before it was 33psi because of cold weather, so let's see how psi will affect (from my knowledge it should affect) and one more thing, after I pushed to charge car to 100% it also affected range in a good way, I have no idea why just following battery calibration procedure to charge 100% couple times after it drai s to 20%
33 psi is like driving on a flat tire. I do 50psi all the way around in winter, 48 front 50 rear in summer due to AC/Radiators blowing the hot exhausted air onto the front tires.
 
In the 134K miles I drove my P85D before selling it, the only time it made any difference at all was when turning it on loosened the thermal management temperature range. After they turned this off, presumably to keep the batteries from degrading or needing to be replaced outright at a very slightly higher rate than with range mode turned off, it made no difference for me over the last 100K miles.
Maybe it did different for a P model, I'm basing it on 450,000+ miles of Tesla ownership across my main 3 Teslas, which were a 2013 MS60, 2016 MS90D, 2016 MX75D as well as a number of loaners too many to count.
 
Maybe it did different for a P model, I'm basing it on 450,000+ miles of Tesla ownership across my main 3 Teslas, which were a 2013 MS60, 2016 MS90D, 2016 MX75D as well as a number of loaners too many to count.

Range mode, except for limiting climate, increased my range by like 2% per SMT. '15 85D.

Four, 100 mile runs across flat NB interstate showed 330-335wh/mi at gps calibrated 80mph if that helps.
 
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