Plate Changeout - How?

[GeorgeSymonds]

Thinking about doing this myself and I’ve used Velcro before without issue. On the front, could you use a number of smallish self tappers to secure the Velcro to the smaller/under mount then stick the plate on top?

 

[HenryT]

Thinking about doing this myself and I’ve used Velcro before without issue. On the front, could you use a number of smallish self tappers to secure the Velcro to the smaller/under mount then stick the plate on top?

Depends how reliable the adhesive is on the velcro on the back of the plate.

I found that after a couple of goes just using sticky pads (the proper ones for number plates) the tension from the curve in the front plate would cause the ends to come free during the very high temperatures last summer. I tried bending the plate to match the curve but it felt like the plate either wanted to crease/kink at one point or simply wouldn't retain the gentle curve needed.

My solution for the front was to screw it to the backplate into the holes already in the backplate (taking the backplate off, of course, to align it before drilling). Picture in my earlier post above.

 

[Cardo]

Depends how reliable the adhesive is on the velcro on the back of the plate.

I found that after a couple of goes just using sticky pads (the proper ones for number plates) the tension from the curve in the front plate would cause the ends to come free during the very high temperatures last summer. I tried bending the plate to match the curve but it felt like the plate either wanted to crease/kink at one point or simply wouldn't retain the gentle curve needed.

My solution for the front was to screw it to the backplate into the holes already in the backplate (taking the backplate off, of course, to align it before drilling). Picture in my earlier post above.

My experience, exactly. And I went for the same solution.

 

[Bootneckshuffl]

I had the issue where the stuck on front plate was pulling away at the sides so looked a bit naff. Ended up drilling the plate and using screws and caps from Amazon, much like yours. Though I used the existing holes that were closer to the edges on the bracket so the plate would closely hug the contour of the bracket.View attachment 949426

I know the holes you mean but there’s nothing behind mine. I can’t see how the screw will stay in those holes. Material on the base is very thin. Maybe I’m missing something.

 

[Cardo]

I know the holes you mean but there’s nothing behind mine. I can’t see how the screw will stay in those holes. Material on the base is very thin. Maybe I’m missing something.

I screwed the plate onto the mounting plate on the front, not directly onto the bumper. I used the same holes the plate carrier was screwed into. I also used the original screws the plate carrier was screwed on with.

 

[Bootneckshuffl]

Depends how reliable the adhesive is on the velcro on the back of the plate.

I found that after a couple of goes just using sticky pads (the proper ones for number plates) the tension from the curve in the front plate would cause the ends to come free during the very high temperatures last summer. I tried bending the plate to match the curve but it felt like the plate either wanted to crease/kink at one point or simply wouldn't retain the gentle curve needed.

My solution for the front was to screw it to the backplate into the holes already in the backplate (taking the backplate off, of course, to align it before drilling). Picture in my earlier post above.

I was going to do this but for some reason the holes on my backing plate that take the screws, are not the farthest ones near to the edges and more towards the middle (lord knows why), hence if I screw the plate directly to the backing plate, the ends of the plate are sticking out slightly

 

[debrooker]

I used the front backing plate - no drilling holes, used the holes that were there

 

[HenryT]

I was going to do this but for some reason the holes on my backing plate that take the screws, are not the farthest ones near to the edges and more towards the middle (lord knows why), hence if I screw the plate directly to the backing plate, the ends of the plate are sticking out slightly

It may be they have changed the format a bit? Mine is a 2021 car and the holes in the backing plate on mine were about 2 or 3 inches in from the end which worked fine for me. The screws are just pretty short self-tappers. My numberplate is the original Tesla alloy one, in case that makes any difference?

 

[Bootneckshuffl]

It may be they have changed the format a bit? Mine is a 2021 car and the holes in the backing plate on mine were about 2 or 3 inches in from the end which worked fine for me. The screws are just pretty short self-tappers. My numberplate is the original Tesla alloy one, in case that makes any difference?

Not sure if mine is the same mate. My backing plate has 3 holes either side with the middle one of those being the only one that can actually accommodate the screw properly. Ideally I need to use the holes nearest the edges of the backing plate so that when I fit the actual number plate, the screws sit nicely in the white areas of the plate

 

[GlynG]

I just used the 3M double sided tape - they have a name for their super sticky tape but cant remember what it is - anyway, been on nearly three years an no sign of coming away. Rear plate direct to bootlid and front plate stuck to the backing plate.

 

[Bootneckshuffl]

I used the front backing plate - no drilling holes, used the holes that were there


View attachment 980823

My backing plate must be different to yours for sure. I’ve got 3 holes in the backing plate either side but only one hole either side can take a screw properly (think it’s the middle hole of the 3.

 

[Greytop]

I just used the 3M double sided tape - they have a name for their super sticky tape but cant remember what it is - anyway, been on nearly three years an no sign of coming away. Rear plate direct to bootlid and front plate stuck to the backing plate.

I've done the same with 3M VHB 5952 Adhesive Tape except I bonded the rear plate to the backing plate (as well as the front).

 

[Bootneckshuffl]

I've done the same with 3M VHB 5952 Adhesive Tape except I bonded the rear plate to the backing plate (as well as the front).

I’ve just bought 3M 4941P so I’m hoping that’s going to be strong enough. Ticks all the boxes. You think the 5952 has an advantage over the 4941?

 

[Greytop]

I’ve just bought 3M 4941P so I’m hoping that’s going to be strong enough. Ticks all the boxes. You think the 5952 has an advantage over the 4941?

It looks like 3M 4941P should do equally well.
I've used 3M VHB 5952 because I've had really good results in other applications so I'm pretty confident it will go the distance with these plates - even with the curved front one.

 

[HenryT]

It looks like 3M 4941P should do equally well.
I've used 3M VHB 5952 because I've had really good results in other applications so I'm pretty confident it will go the distance with these plates - even with the curved front one.

I'd used the Halfords own brand number plate pads. I had put loads on the front plate but during the hottest days last summer it finally gave up at the ends of the front plate.

Admitted defeat and put the screws in.

The back plate has been fine with the sticky pads, but obviously not suffering the same stresses as the curve in the front plate.

 

[debrooker]

When I used sticky pads, I always added a dab of superglue