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Okay ... just unplugged the Y-adapter and plugged the line to the outlet directly into the 240v dryer outlet.
NO difference. The charge current is still showing 8/8A.
This would seem to point to the outlet, which is a Leviton 14-50 (to match up with the Tesla Mobile Charger cable dongle (the only one supplied for 240v application). Everything seems to accept the setup, but it just doesn't deliver enough Amps to get the job done.
Yeah, a wall charger would be nice to have, but I've already spent over $250 on this, and paying an electrician $6-700 for a wiring job and Tesla about the same for the wall charger is a bit more than my budget can handle. Others have made this work, so I'm scratching my head figuring out why mine won't!
Was it a recent YouTube video? Tesla and third parties have Tesla Mobile Connector dongles for every type of receptacle you could think of and more. No need for adapters or even random extension cords since you can even buy a Tesla handle extension cord.Okay, thanks everyone for the input. I'll buy the adapter dongle and install a 14-30 outlet in place of the 14-50 I used.
I wasn't trying to save money, since the stuff I bought for my setup was more than $35! I had seen this method on YouTube and thought it made sense. But if the adapter dongle communicates with the TMC, maybe it will solve the problem.
This makes even less sense as to why the Tesla 14-30 connector isn't the easier solution. An unsafe jerryrig option is better than a safe Tesla 14-30 connector which is cheaper?Okay, thanks everyone for the input. I'll buy the adapter dongle and install a 14-30 outlet in place of the 14-50 I used.
I wasn't trying to save money, since the stuff I bought for my setup was more than $35! I had seen this method on YouTube and thought it made sense. But if the adapter dongle communicates with the TMC, maybe it will solve the problem.
This makes even less sense as to why the Tesla 14-30 connector isn't the easier solution. An unsafe jerryrig option is better than a safe Tesla 14-30 connector which is cheaper?
Yeah, thanks. Some of us are 'handymen' who like to do our own stuff. Since my dryer outlet was only about a foot from the wall separating the laundry room from the garage, it seemed sensible to me to just punch through the wall and run a lead to the garage side. Then it's just a matter of sharing the dryer outlet with the dryer and the charger (especially since we don't dry clothes overnight when I'd be charging the car).It sounded to me like the OP may not have even been aware that there was a dongle they could buy from Tesla to accomplish plugging in the mobile connector. While a lot of people end up at a site like TMC to ask these questions before purchase, not everyone does.
Like a lot of other people, I will look up videos on stuff when trying to do / fix / buy something, so there isnt anything unusual about someone finding a youtube video and trying to follow the suggestions.
With that being said, OP, whomever's youtube video you found suggesting this type of hack, if they didnt clearly spell out why they might or might not choose to do this vs buying the adapter, or spell out clearly that it wasnt to code, etc, I might re consider consulting their channel for anything else.
As others mentioned, first thing to try is to plug in your Mobile Connector to a normal 120V outlet and see if it works. Then next is try with a 14-30 adapter directly on your dryer outlet (no extension cord/Y-cable funny business). Make sure the connectors/adapters are all attached firmly and fully seated. Those will at least eliminate the Mobile Connector as a problem.Yeah, thanks. Some of us are 'handymen' who like to do our own stuff. Since my dryer outlet was only about a foot from the wall separating the laundry room from the garage, it seemed sensible to me to just punch through the wall and run a lead to the garage side. Then it's just a matter of sharing the dryer outlet with the dryer and the charger (especially since we don't dry clothes overnight when I'd be charging the car).
Then there was the matter of the supplied dongle having a 14-50 plug, so attaching a 14-50 outlet to the extension line seemed fine, since I would instruct the car to limit draw to 24A (below spec for both 14-30 and 14-50 wiring and fixtures.). I had no idea the dongles might have chips in them to regulate current.
So, I appreciate those who were helpful and didn't scold me.
If only someone like me in comment 5 two days ago and several other people since then had said "Make sure the adapter is fully installed in the UMC."Well, wonder of wonders - when I plugged in tonight I got an on-screen error message that said to unplug everything and then re-plug ... and VOILA!, I watched the Amps zoom up to 32!
I don't see the point of a wall connector in this case. If the OP switches to a gas dryer, all he will need is to wire a 14-30 outlet in the garage and seal off the one in the laundry room (he can use that as a junction box).This is still a dangerous setup. I strongly recommend snagging a hardwired EVSE from Tesla (the Wall Connector). You can DIY it if you're handy and will only need another $150ish or less in conduit and wiring if the run isn't long.
There are posts of these types of things melting and catching fire.
Just saw your post. My 'punching through' consisted of carefully drilling a 5/8" hole in the sheetrock, then mounting a double-gang junction box on the garage side to hold the 14-50 outlet. That didn't compromise the fire-rated wall any more than the light switch box right next to it, nor the garage door opener switch above it. Maybe I'll seal it with some fire resistive caulk, but I didn't do anything contrary to code.I suppose we’ll set aside the problems with “punching through” the fire-rated wall separating the garage from your house because I can’t imagine that’s gonna land in any appreciable way either.
The cable through the wall is contrary to code. Specifically 400.8Maybe I'll seal it with some fire resistive caulk, but I didn't do anything contrary to code.
Right. I have the 14-30 dongle on the way from Tesla, but since the 14-50 outlet is actually a bit heavier-duty than the Leviton 14-30 outlet I just bought (the 14-50 has nice brass terminals vs the 14-30's steel ones, and I don't like the external terminals of the 14-30, either), I'll probably just leave the 14-50 outlet in place.I don't see the point of a wall connector in this case. If the OP switches to a gas dryer, all he will need is to wire a 14-30 outlet in the garage and seal off the one in the laundry room (he can use that as a junction box).
My 'punching through' consisted of carefully drilling a 5/8" hole in the sheetrock, then mounting a double-gang junction box on the garage side to hold the 14-50 outlet.
I would not buy any Leviton branded outlets for EV charging, they only have half sized contacts if you look into the sockets. Practically any other brand has larger contacts even the $10 one at Home Depot or Leviton.Right. I have the 14-30 dongle on the way from Tesla, but since the 14-50 outlet is actually a bit heavier-duty than the Leviton 14-30 outlet I just bought (the 14-50 has nice brass terminals vs the 14-30's steel ones, and I don't like the external terminals of the 14-30, either), I'll probably just leave the 14-50 outlet in place.
This setup apparently troubles some members, but there's really nothing amiss with it, other than mine and my wife's responsibility to use only one of the devices at a time. I can always buy a switch to isolate the current to either the charger or the dryer, and I may do that.
Again, thanks to everyone for their help!
Sorry, above should be Home Depot or Lowes (not Leviton).I would not buy any Leviton branded outlets for EV charging, they only have half sized contacts if you look into the sockets. Practically any other brand has larger contacts even the $10 one at Home Depot or Leviton.