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Model Y Standard v Performance

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I have had a Model S from 2015-2018. I have had my Model 3 Long Range since 2018. My wife drives a Model Y, and I use it from time to time. I enjoyed the comfort and the refinement of the Model S, like the practicality of the Model 3, but find the Model Y ride and inside space ideal.

Now that Elon came up with transferring FSD to a new car by the end of September, I am seriously considering getting a Model Y right away and transferring my Model 3's FSD.

I have some hesitations regarding the following:
1) Will the range go up to 400 miles soon? Should I wait?
2) Will they change the body soon?
3) Why should I not go for a used 2020 used Model S, which is about the same price but has a 400-mile range? (granted no FSD transfer and no Fed tax break)
4) Everyone and their mother is driving a Y or a 3 right now. Every home in our 12 home cul-de-sac has either a Model Y or a Model 3 right now, except one.

Below are the issues that give me pause about the Performance model. The price difference is now minimal if you want nicer wheels on the Standard (especially if you buy discounted performance versions from existing inventory). I am scheduled to test drive a performance model soon.

1) The quality of the ride. I am told it is not as smooth as the regular Model Y.
2) The mileage is about 22 miles less.
3) It sits a bit lower, I am told.

I like the comfort and the refinement of the Model S but find the Model Y to be practical and at least 10K cheaper than a used 2020 Model S (If you account for tax credits).

WHAT WOULD YOU DO IF YOU WERE IN MY SHOES? Which one would you go for (Model Y Standard, Performance or a 2020 used Model S)?
 
1. No
2. Define “soon”. But not for another 1-2 years at least.
3. Money/cost. And completely different type of car. Depends what you want. 2021+ is Model S refresh. 2020 would be not too different from your previous S and missing some features only available on 3/Y and refreshed S/X.
4. Yeah well it is what it is. You don’t buy a 3/Y to be unique or special anymore. You buy one because it makes sense for what you need it for.

And did you mean long range Y? The standard Y is not worth it IMO unless you really can’t afford the LR. If you can afford the performance and the reduced range isn’t a deal breaker then I would go with the performance just because it’s a little more unique than a regular Y with the spoiler and red brakes.
 
Depends on your use. I own a model Y LR, since the standard was not available yet when I needed a new car. If it would have been, I would have ordered one.

The Performance is nice and fun, but overall the standard Y gives the best price value. You get a very efficient car with a decent range. On long trips you have to take more stops but since the LFP Battery charges faster overall (not peak though), the stops are shorter. Even with less power, it’s still a fun car to drive. It lacks the all wheel drive on the other hand, but I never really need that here in Germany.

If you want the fastest option, go for the performance, if you can justify the price for yourself. It’s an absolute beast, but way overpowered for (at least my) daily needs. It’s about an inch lower, in case that matters to you.
 
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RANGE: range improvements cannot be expected until batteries get cheaper and more available. and, competition improves. NET: NO REAL RANGE CHANGES
BODY: speculation - a MY in '24 refresh will include the cosmetic changes coming imminently to the M3. NBD. But if M3 'Highland' gets 48v internals like the CT......Big.
MS v MY: personal preference, tax considerations, warranty considerations
UNIQUENESS: if you want to not be the same as everyone else, get it wrapped or put different wheels on it. Tint the windows. Play with it.

RIDE MYLR v MYP: P rides more firm and suspension is lowered, and tires are staggered on some configs. NET: personal preferences, tire rotation limitations.
MILEAGE DIFF: minutiae
 
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If you want the fastest option, go for the performance, if you can justify the price for yourself. It’s an absolute beast, but way overpowered for (at least my) daily needs. It’s about an inch lower, in case that matters to you.
Actually, it's 2/3 of an inch. And realistically speaking, unless you get a tape measure or ruler, no one is going to notice.
 
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I bought a 279 mile range Model Y earlier this year because it was available quickly, but I wanted the 330 mile range AWD and was disappointed that I had to "settle" for the shorter range. Over 5,500 miles of driving, including a nearly 2000 mile round trip to FL, the shorter range didn't matter. We stop every 3 hours or so on the road, and the abundance of SC locations made it easy. Letting the battery run down to less than 20% before charging, and stopping at 60-80% charge at the SC typically took 20-25 minutes per stop. That's a bit longer than a gas/restroom/coffee stop, but not by much, and we enjoyed the relaxed pace.

If the car had the 330 mile battery pack the charging time may have been just as long since the battery would be at a higher charge level when connecting to the SC and would therefore charge at a slower pace. Despite feeling as if I missed out initially, it turns out that in real world the SR Y is perfectly acceptable for my everyday use or an occasional road trip. And I unintentionally saved $3K!

To the OP - I view all EVs as "disposable" products, similar to computer upgrades. Despite that you don't have to upgrade your computer if it still meets your needs. Same with any EV. A 400 mile range is nice, but if 95% of your driving is half of that, then you'll still have a perfectly useful vehicle. The S does have air suspension, a notable ride difference, but is less useful if you need a SUV's utility. Perhaps taking the time to best match the vehicle to your intended use case will help you decide. I also agree that white model Y cars are like weeds - they're everywhere, but that's largely because they are an incredible value at recent prices, and white was the standard color until just a few weeks ago. Interestingly white paint is similar to red paint - multilayer, a more complex application process. Tesla kind of gave us a gift by making that color standard - the red paint is a $2K up charge.

I test drove the Model Y-P extensively. I didn't find the ride overly harsh, surprising me. On the highway it felt planted and handled well. There was a bit more road noise, especially noticeable on concrete roads. For the difference in price it's certainly worth considering. Even if the car were available, I'm not sure that I would have bought it, but it certainly is tempting. The difference in acceleration, even in everyday passing situations, is quite spectacular, and, as others have pointed out, it does have a different "presence" compared to non P versions. Frankly, I don't think you can make a bad choice among any of the cars you mentioned. Good luck on your decision!
 
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I have some hesitations regarding the following:
1) Will the range go up to 400 miles soon? Should I wait?
2) Will they change the body soon?
3) Why should I not go for a used 2020 used Model S, which is about the same price but has a 400-mile range? (granted no FSD transfer and no Fed tax break)
4) Everyone and their mother is driving a Y or a 3 right now. Every home in our 12 home cul-de-sac has either a Model Y or a Model 3 right now, except one.
1. Tesla may add more range as they can. Range is king but will we see 400? I don't think so because we don't even see that in a model X yet.

2. I think with the MY being such a great selling car there would be no reason to change it. I think the Model 3 was ready for a chance, it's been out for a while and between the 3 or Y, the Y was the go to car. I don't think we will see any changes in the Y soon.

3. With the tax break and the price point of the Y, it really is a great buy. The MS not so much but a wonderful car.

4. Everyone and their mothers are telling you that the MY and M3 are just down right awesome cars. Join them with your new MY.
1) The quality of the ride. I am told it is not as smooth as the regular Model Y.
2) The mileage is about 22 miles less.
3) It sits a bit lower, I am told.

1. That's all based on the rims & tires but should handle better. I had a 2020 MY with 20in. I tracked it on road courses and several SCCA events and was always impress the limited body roll in the vehicle. I could only imagine that the bigger wheels would make for a true driving experience.

2. See note 1

3. Yes but the MY sits up high enough that I believe it won't be that noticeable.

I feel that if you go the performance route, you will never look back and second guess what you have. I had a MY long range but was fortunate enough to have a performance motor and was able to do the ingenext ghost upgrade to be a performance. OMG. What a wild exciting car it was to drive. After a long stressful day at work. driving that car home would always put a smile on my face. Prior to the tradein I removed the ghost upgrade and well, the MY LR was just borning. Sure, it still had great Tesla power but you could tell you was missing that pull pull pull.

I've had my share of Teslas but do feel that the MY is a great value. I traded in our 2020 My for a Model 3 2018. I've been looking for a RWD Model 3 for a while and finally located one on tesla used web site. To me, the nimbleness of the front being lighter weight and the RWD propulsion that helps rotate in a corner just makes for a fun driving experience. It's like a Mazda Miata with an LS1 swap.

Best of luck.
Go test drive one and use my refer.. .. .. . Na, just kidding.
 
A new Model Y LR with the FSD transfer seems like the best bet. If you love the Model YP after your test drive then that's a fine choice too. I usually drive my Model Y LR in chill mode but I have S3XY buttons and I enabled the kickdown features which makes it automatically go into standard mode when I floor it.

I tried FSDb for a few months at the start of the summer. Here in New Mexico it was more trouble than it was worth but I understand it works much better in California. In addition, I expect it to improve greatly over the next two years. I would 100% take advantage of the free FSD transfer.
 
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Depends on your use. I own a model Y LR, since the standard was not available yet when I needed a new car. If it would have been, I would have ordered one.

The Performance is nice and fun, but overall the standard Y gives the best price value. You get a very efficient car with a decent range. On long trips you have to take more stops but since the LFP Battery charges faster overall (not peak though), the stops are shorter. Even with less power, it’s still a fun car to drive. It lacks the all wheel drive on the other hand, but I never really need that here in Germany.

If you want the fastest option, go for the performance, if you can justify the price for yourself. It’s an absolute beast, but way overpowered for (at least my) daily needs. It’s about an inch lower, in case that matters to you.
Is actually .59 inches lower, to be exact.
 
I bought a 279 mile range Model Y earlier this year because it was available quickly, but I wanted the 330 mile range AWD and was disappointed that I had to "settle" for the shorter range. Over 5,500 miles of driving, including a nearly 2000 mile round trip to FL, the shorter range didn't matter. We stop every 3 hours or so on the road, and the abundance of SC locations made it easy. Letting the battery run down to less than 20% before charging, and stopping at 60-80% charge at the SC typically took 20-25 minutes per stop. That's a bit longer than a gas/restroom/coffee stop, but not by much, and we enjoyed the relaxed pace.

If the car had the 330 mile battery pack the charging time may have been just as long since the battery would be at a higher charge level when connecting to the SC and would therefore charge at a slower pace. Despite feeling as if I missed out initially, it turns out that in real world the SR Y is perfectly acceptable for my everyday use or an occasional road trip. And I unintentionally saved $3K!

To the OP - I view all EVs as "disposable" products, similar to computer upgrades. Despite that you don't have to upgrade your computer if it still meets your needs. Same with any EV. A 400 mile range is nice, but if 95% of your driving is half of that, then you'll still have a perfectly useful vehicle. The S does have air suspension, a notable ride difference, but is less useful if you need a SUV's utility. Perhaps taking the time to best match the vehicle to your intended use case will help you decide. I also agree that white model Y cars are like weeds - they're everywhere, but that's largely because they are an incredible value at recent prices, and white was the standard color until just a few weeks ago. Interestingly white paint is similar to red paint - multilayer, a more complex application process. Tesla kind of gave us a gift by making that color standard - the red paint is a $2K up charge.

I test drove the Model Y-P extensively. I didn't find the ride overly harsh, surprising me. On the highway it felt planted and handled well. There was a bit more road noise, especially noticeable on concrete roads. For the difference in price it's certainly worth considering. Even if the car were available, I'm not sure that I would have bought it, but it certainly is tempting. The difference in acceleration, even in everyday passing situations, is quite spectacular, and, as others have pointed out, it does have a different "presence" compared to non P versions. Frankly, I don't think you can make a bad choice among any of the cars you mentioned. Good luck on your decision!
The one you drove extensively, did it have the performance summer Pirellis? Or the recently switched over to Michelin A/S 4 tires?
 
I originally had a long range reserved and switched to a performance. I would not have it any other way now. Based on how it looks and the smile it brings to your face to drive I am glad I went with it. Ride is a little more firm, but worlds better than my previous BMW 335 with runflats or silverado trailboss. I would just drive them both, but you will not regret the performance.
 
What is the kickdown feature? Sounds like when an accelerator hits the NOS switch.
An automatic transmission will kick down to a lower gear when conditions are right and you step on the gas. This gives you more torque and thus more acceleration (at the expense of higher RPM). S3XY Buttons copied this idea. If this feature is enabled and you are in Chill mode then when you step on the accelerator it switches to Standard or Sport, giving you more acceleration. So yes, it is like a sudden nitrous oxide boost.

TIP: I have to set to kick in when the pedal is depressed 90%. I original had it set to only kick in at 100% but that gave an emulation of turbo lag.
 
How does the Performance model perform in chill mode in terms of range compared to the LR?
Chill mode can help put less wear on your tires. The range savings is minimal but that depends a lot on your driving habits. For example, on a road trip, your speed will have a large impact on the range but chill mode will have almost no effect (unless you drive like a crazy person) because you are rarely putting pedal to the metal, usually only when you are getting on the highway.

I've read that chill mode reduces the 0 to 60 down to 7.5 seconds across the fleet. I prefer chill mode because it is still plenty fast for me and I'm less inclined to drive like a teenager.

After you accelerate, you can get a lot of the energy back from regen. My guess is braking hard will be worse for your range than sport mode. The reasons you lose a little range with sport mode are: 1) you spend a little bit more time at higher speed, and 2) there are more electrical losses when you send high current to the motors.

The power loss in wires scales as the square of the current so if you double the current, the power loss due to electrical resistance goes up by a factor of four. But doubling the current (at fixed voltage) only doubles the power output of the motor.

This may seem contradictory but it's easy to understand. Power equals voltage times current. When you put current through a wire (a resistor) it will create a voltage drop across the wire proportional to the current. Power is voltage times current. So if you double the current, you double the voltage drop and increase the power used by a factor of four because both the current and the voltage have doubled.

It's not the same for the motor. It never gets more than the full voltage from the battery. When current increases, the voltage drop in the wires means the motor gets slightly less voltage which reduces the power available compared to the same motor using zero resistance wires.
 
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