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Looks like I can’t have the PG&E plan E1, that’s a problem

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Time of use in the Tesla app requires you to go through and put a bunch of information in the app about your buy and sell prices, etc, and then it tries to "figure out" when it would be better for you to buy energy from the grid and export your solar vs using it.

Self powered doesnt do any of that, it just tries to store and use all of your generated power.

You WILL be forced off the electricity plan you are on now, to a time of use plan. That has nothing to do with what your solar + powerwalls are setup to do.

Based on your stated desires and what you have posted here in both this thread and others, I would suggest that you ignore time of use mode in the Tesla app and use only self powered. Since self powered mode prioritizes using all your power and only drawing from the grid when there is no solar and the battery has hit its reserve, and thats what you want it to do, thats what you should use.
The way I explain Time of use compared with self powered is this:
If you bought batteries primarily because you like money more than grid morality then use Time of use. THis will attempt to maximize financial return.
If you like the morality of a green grid more than money, then use Self powered. This will attempt to maximize the fewest possible number of kWh used from the grid, regardless if it will cost you more on your bills.
 
Time of use in the Tesla app requires you to go through and put a bunch of information in the app about your buy and sell prices, etc, and then it tries to "figure out" when it would be better for you to buy energy from the grid and export your solar vs using it.

Self powered doesnt do any of that, it just tries to store and use all of your generated power.

You WILL be forced off the electricity plan you are on now, to a time of use plan. That has nothing to do with what your solar + powerwalls are setup to do.

Based on your stated desires and what you have posted here in both this thread and others, I would suggest that you ignore time of use mode in the Tesla app and use only self powered. Since self powered mode prioritizes using all your power and only drawing from the grid when there is no solar and the battery has hit its reserve, and thats what you want it to do, thats what you should use.
Thank you! BTW do you know the answer to the Powerwall 3 LED light on the Tesla logo on the front, is it an LED light? My manual says it is but I cant find a single source explaining what it does or means when it lights up and mine never lights up that I can see. I assume most here do not have the 3 as it is so new so I dont expect anyone to know this but thought I would ask anyway.
 
Thank you! BTW do you know the answer to the Powerwall 3 LED light on the Tesla logo on the front, is it an LED light? My manual says it is but I cant find a single source explaining what it does or means when it lights up and mine never lights up that I can see. I assume most here do not have the 3 as it is so new so I dont expect anyone to know this but thought I would ask anyway.
No, I dont know anything about powerwall 3s that isnt posted here. have you called Tesla energy support and asked them that question?
 
The way I explain Time of use compared with self powered is this:
If you bought batteries primarily because you like money more than grid morality then use Time of use. THis will attempt to maximize financial return.
If you like the morality of a green grid more than money, then use Self powered. This will attempt to maximize the fewest possible number of kWh used from the grid, regardless if it will cost you more on your bills.
I think I saw you tell me this or just state it in general somewhere else here and it is one of the reasons I seem so confused. Maybe in my case, per the response from jjrandorin, self powered will cost me less? The reason self powered costs more is because it will draw from the grid "whenever" as opposed to only during low peak? But in my case if I dont need the grid most of the time, then what...I guess I will just have to experiment. I will use the TOU-C plan and see what but at first per jjrandorin I will use self-powered.. Thanks. Also I think I get paid 4 cents per kWh sold back as opposed to most of you getting more like .40 cents. That has to figure in here as well.
 
No, I dont know anything about powerwall 3s that isnt posted here. have you called Tesla energy support and asked them that question?
I can no longer make project advisor consults even though I am still waiting for PTO, city inspection and to pay, for some reason it wont make the appt, says it does but I dont get the email confirmation and it wont work. I then found a way to send a message thru somewhere on the app and it said they would respond in 48 hours, that was 5 days ago. I will try calling, not sure which # is the best. Thanks...
 
The project advisor is the person you talk to, up to physical installation. They have virtually nothing to do with support. Once you have the product installed, they are pretty much done with you, with the exception of PTO notifications etc.

The number I use for Tesla Energy support is 877-961-7652 and then listening to the options and selecting "powerwall" as the option.
 
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The project advisor is the person you talk to, up to physical installation. They have virtually nothing to do with support. Once you have the product installed, they are pretty much done with you, with the exception of PTO notifications etc.

The number I use for Tesla Energy support is 877-961-7652 and then listening to the options and selecting "powerwall" as the option.
That was easy, I didnt even bother calling till now assuming there would be a long wait. Took 15 seconds to be connected and the LED light question he did not know the answer and had to put me on hold for several minutes, came back and said when powered up it goes red then green then off. That it only lights up red during operation if something is wrong. So that is good to know. I also asked about the rapid shutdown button, to turn it back on if pushed for any reason (someone here told me how but I asked anyway just to confirm) twist and pull till you see the yellow sleeve again.

Great!
 
I think I saw you tell me this or just state it in general somewhere else here and it is one of the reasons I seem so confused. Maybe in my case, per the response from jjrandorin, self powered will cost me less? The reason self powered costs more is because it will draw from the grid "whenever" as opposed to only during low peak? But in my case if I dont need the grid most of the time, then what...I guess I will just have to experiment. I will use the TOU-C plan and see what but at first per jjrandorin I will use self-powered.. Thanks. Also I think I get paid 4 cents per kWh sold back as opposed to most of you getting more like .40 cents. That has to figure in here as well.
If you are under the NBT, AKA NEM 3.0 then my advice above is maybe not relevant. I don't know much about the NBT.

The reason Self powered costs more is that it will draw from the grid the FEWEST NUMBER of kWh that can be drawn, regardless that a kWh might cost 2-3X more during peak times. EDIT Time based Control would try to pull from the grid usually when its CHEAPEST.
 
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If you are under the NBT, AKA NEM 3.0 then my advice above is maybe not relevant. I don't know much about the NBT.

The reason Self powered costs more is that it will draw from the grid the FEWEST NUMBER of kWh that can be drawn, regardless that a kWh might cost 2-3X more during peak times. Time of use would try to pull from the grid usually when its CHEAPEST.
Thanks, your advice will be good on hot summer days probably, and knowing I can switch back and forth anytime, from self-powered to time of use is great also.

I don't recognize NBT or AKA but NEM 3.0 is the highway robbery deal 😁:mad:I am getting from PG&E. I say it that way because my closest relative and best friend, my cousin, is a retired PG&E management field employee and we walk regularly together and he defends them no matter what and I whine no matter what so we have fun.
 
Maybe in my case, per the response from jjrandorin, self powered will cost me less?
Note that I didnt say anything of the sort (that self powered would cost you less). I said that self powered would meet what appears to be your desired operation, which has been stated by you as "I dont want to pull power from the grid, thats a problem".

You stated a desire to not pull from the grid, and also chose not to answer the question I asked about "what was the primary driver for you purchasing solar + battery" that I asked. Thats perfectly fine, I only call it out because the only information we have to go on is what you have posted.

What you have posted is "I dont want to use power from the grid".
 
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Note that I didnt say anything of the sort (that self powered would cost you less). I said that self powered would meet what appears to be your desired operation, which has been stated by you as "I dont want to pull power from the grid, thats a problem".

You stated a desire to not pull from the grid, and also chose not to answer the question I asked about "what was the primary driver for you purchasing solar + battery" that I asked. Thats perfectly fine, I only call it out because the only information we have to go on is what you have posted.

What you have posted is "I dont want to use power from the grid".
I'm sorry and I forgot to answer that. My primary driver was to lower my electric costs from PG&E billing and have power during the planned outages that PG&E does here for up to 3 days (I realize one PW wont last more than one day) as their way of not having another horrible fire like we had in 2019 I think it was.

If I am not using the grid per our conversation, why wouldnt it cost me less? If using self-powered means most of the time I am not using the grid, why doesn't that cost me less? I am missing something here which is why I am asking. Thanks for your help. I am clearly missing some important information if I am assuming I will save the most NOT using PG&E as in not paying them for electricity. I suppose I should have researched the "true-up" process more, I am guessing your answer will have to do with that, but I dont know.

Oh, and I am very happy to be contributing less to global warming by going solar.

(For instance in the two weeks it has been running I have used very little from the grid, about 30 cents a day. On two cloudy days it was $1.20 or so. When I get PTO I will sell some back I guess but at 4 cents per kWh I am expecting that to amount to very little over the course of a year. But I guess my actual cost for that electricity is more than what my PG&E website chart shows, based on what you are saying, but I will see what you tell me, thanks.

And that I am seeing ANY charge on most of these days makes no sense to me as between the PW and solar generated I have no use at all for the grid but maybe since I dont have PTE permission to export, that is why I am seeing these amounts.)
 
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What I’m still unclear about is, and I am referring back to you saying “if your house doesn’t need any energy no energy will be imported at any time” if I am on the time of use versus self powered on the app will it NOT draw from the grid unless the battery is depleted, is that when it draws?
The right terminology isn't "time of use" it is "Time Based Control". "Time Based Control" is a mode where the algorithm tries to optimize based on basic utility pricing that includes time-of-day and day-of-week pricing to determine when to have the Powerwall start exporting. This works well when the pricing model is simple and there is reasonable export resell rate, however you are in California, with PG&E and under NEM3.0 which has a highly variable and very low resell rate that the algorithm can't fully understand. Using "Time Based Control" will very likely result in sub-optimal pricing decisions and a higher annual cost to you.

My recommendation is to just use the "Self Powered" mode to simply minimize any importing from the grid. Run it this way for several weeks and make sure that at least during the Peak periods you are importing near zero from the grid.
(if you have a battery that’s full for the sake of this conversation and you’re running 4 1/2 or 5 kW because you have the air conditioner going and something else and generating solar of only 3 kW should the system draw only from the battery to make up the difference and continue to do that until the battery reaches the percentage that I have preset for reserve? Regardless of whether I have it set to time of use or self powered?)
Under the "Self Powered" mode the Powerwall will start exporting when solar can't supply the entire house load and in your case it would be exporting 1.5-2.0kW until the A/C stops running. Under "Time Based Control" the Powerwall would only start exporting if the pricing algorithm decided there was a cost benefit to doing so based on the time and import vs export costs at that point in time versus expected future needs.
 
The right terminology isn't "time of use" it is "Time Based Control". "Time Based Control" is a mode where the algorithm tries to optimize based on basic utility pricing that includes time-of-day and day-of-week pricing to determine when to have the Powerwall start exporting. This works well when the pricing model is simple and there is reasonable export resell rate, however you are in California, with PG&E and under NEM3.0 which has a highly variable and very low resell rate that the algorithm can't fully understand. Using "Time Based Control" will very likely result in sub-optimal pricing decisions and a higher annual cost to you.

My recommendation is to just use the "Self Powered" mode to simply minimize any importing from the grid. Run it this way for several weeks and make sure that at least during the Peak periods you are importing near zero from the grid.

Under the "Self Powered" mode the Powerwall will start exporting when solar can't supply the entire house load and in your case it would be exporting 1.5-2.0kW until the A/C stops running. Under "Time Based Control" the Powerwall would only start exporting if the pricing algorithm decided there was a cost benefit to doing so based on the time and import vs export costs at that point in time versus expected future needs.
Thanks, that makes sense to me. I will remember the correct term as "TBC" or slightly different than "TCB" both Elvis's motto and a great song, "Taking Care of Business."

If I was better organized I would write down all my questions over a period of weeks and then start only one thread and ask them all, but I dont have the discipline or patience for that. I really appreciate it when people respond given my overt neediness.
 
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Oh darn, at 6:45 PM tonight in California it is cloudy but still light out, solar generating ZERO for a while now. That can’t be right. Maybe that is normal I don’t know.

Solar installs are construction projects for each individual house. Whats normal for your house needs to be looked at over time (at your house). You cant compare it to anyone else, and you dont have any historical data to compare it to yet.
 
Oh darn, at 6:45 PM tonight in California it is cloudy but still light out, solar generating ZERO for a while now. That can’t be right. Maybe that is normal I don’t know.
Frankly, I’d stop overthinking it. Unless you have zero production or have an idea of what to expect (re: generation), there is nothing you can do about it. You are now in a “dead zone” where you have no official contact with Tesla, until PTO (no installation support or Advisor, no post-PTO support). Even if there were issues, you will have to spend significant time trying to find someone to contact, and convincing them (beyond saying “something is wrong”) that there is/are issues, and for them to come out to fix it.

You may have explained your reasons in your earlier posts, but you have been asking a lot of good questions that could have been addressed way earlier (pre-contract) or even during the installation.

As said earlier, every home is unique. If you haven’t done so, you can plot and map out your PV system’s estimated production at this website: PVWatts

(I still had production going at 715pm. What does it mean? Absolutely nothing)

Good luck!
 
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Frankly, I’d stop overthinking it. Unless you have zero production or have an idea of what to expect (re: generation), there is nothing you can do about it. You are now in a “dead zone” where you have no official contact with Tesla, until PTO (no installation support or Advisor, no post-PTO support). Even if there were issues, you will have to spend significant time trying to find someone to contact, and convincing them (beyond saying “something is wrong”) that there is/are issues, and for them to come out to fix it.

You may have explained your reasons in your earlier posts, but you have been asking a lot of good questions that could have been addressed way earlier (pre-contract) or even during the installation.

As said earlier, every home is unique. If you haven’t done so, you can plot and map out your PV system’s estimated production at this website: PVWatts

(I still had production going at 715pm. What does it mean? Absolutely nothing)

Good luck!
Thank you for your input. I was able to figure out how to look at the day by day hour by hour energy production graph and I can see that my solar so far has started anytime between 7 AM and 8 AM and sometimes it stopped at 7:30 PM but usually before 7 PM.

Unfortunately I overthink everything way too much and it’s not healthy, surprised I’ve lived this long😀

As much as I worry about all of this I am enjoying the experience and seeing the results and monitoring everything, I just have to stop bothering people here so much.
 
Oh darn, at 6:45 PM tonight in California it is cloudy but still light out, solar generating ZERO for a while now. That can’t be right. Maybe that is normal I don’t know.
A good chuck of that depends on the position of the sun as well as the position of solar panels (in addition to weather in general). It's possible that it's still light outside, but the sun is fairly low and perhaps the solar panels aren't really pointing in a direction where that low sun is, so there really isn't much of anything that's hitting the panels that could be used to generate power.
 
If I had to replace wired smoke detector and wanted to shut power off because I’m going to unplug the wiring in the smoke detector would I just turn the breaker off like I would’ve done before I had this solar system that’s how you do it right? Dumb question I know but if you need to turn power off to any part of the house because you’re doing something the breakers are still how you do it, right?