-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
Are you sure about that? Hotel room air conditioners are always 6-20, as far as I know. That's exactly why so many people threw up a big WTF? at Tesla for releasing the 6-15 adapter. Hotel room A/C outlets are fairly common, so why wouldn't Tesla release a 6-20 adapter, like they should have, instead of the useless 6-15. Well, it's not exactly useless, since it can still fit into a 6-20 outlet, but it's "less useful" because it limits the current lower than it should be.
If by rumor, you mean John McNeill, the president of Tesla, said it was coming back September/October of this year, then yes.
And I wouldn't mind an official tt-30 option either. Right now, I use this....
FWIW, my 240V basement air handler has a 6-15 to power the 240V condensate pump. But it's not really convenient as a charging source.
Brass Guy
Active Member
TT-30 is 120V right? Can you draw 24A with that or does the car limit the max 120V current? Which on-board charger option do you have?
I've only found 6-15 (the two sideways prongs) at job-sites where they have temporary electric hooked up while a house is being built.
Ah, there is some interesting history on that. See this thread if you are curious.
Anyone know the charge rate for a standard 120V/30A RV outlet? | Tesla Motors
Basically, on some of the really old cars, like the 2012 and 2013 ones, there was something hardwired in that would limit charging from any 120V source to 20A. Across many people testing, single or dual charger didn't make a difference; it was strictly about when the car was built. It seems like maybe late in 2013 this was fixed, and on all of the newer cars, it is possible to get 24A (or more) from a TT-30. Obviously more than 24A is not recommended, but the limit seemed to be removed.
The GFCI breaker was tripping because the UMC tests for a good ground connection before allowing power to flow. It does this by letting a tiny amount of current trickle from one (or both?) of the hots to the ground. Since that's the definition of a ground fault, the GFCI breaker trips.
It is likely a code violation to run a pool pump without GFCI protection. It is also unsafe if your house and pump wiring are not in good condition. You should really put the Tesla charging outlet on its own non-GFCI breaker, and keep the pool pump protected with GFCI.
It is likely a code violation to run a pool pump without GFCI protection. It is also unsafe if your house and pump wiring are not in good condition. You should really put the Tesla charging outlet on its own non-GFCI breaker, and keep the pool pump protected with GFCI.
I successfully charged at 24amp 110v using my TT-30 to 14-30 adapter. No need to adjust amperage manually on the car. A whopping 8 miles of range if I recall correctly. But exactly what I needed and more than enough to run the AC at night to cool the car and attached Tesla-tent down to 59 degrees.
Electric700
Active Member
Yup: Friedrich SL22N30B 21,000 BTU Room Air Conditioner with 9.6 EER, R-410A Refrigerant, 24-Hour Timer, Carbon Filtration, Automatic Fan, Digital Remote Control and 230/208V.
Under Specifications you have "Plug Face (NEMA#): 6-15P".
I am definitely for adding (not removing) new MC plugs, so 6-20 would be great too. As others have said, this is likely safer since you eliminate the need for third party/DIY options.
Brass Guy
Active Member
Thanks for tracking that down. I knew there were threads somewhere about it, but it was so long ago I didn't remember where. I had not seen the more recent(mid 2014) posts confirming the hardware aspect. Mine is a 2013, but I hope not to ever need 120V charging anyway.
This thread is interesting and I've been following everyone's recommendations. It just dawned on me that the L2 adapters I've been making for the Gen2 Volt's OEM EVSE will work for the UMC. It's a Clipper Creek OEM'ed by Delphi/GM. It has an auto-switching internal power supply, just like the Tesla UMC.
Seeing as how the UMC's pilot signal is governed by the adapter on the input side and you can push whatever voltage you want through it (85-277.)
By using a 240 adapter on an official 5-15 or 5-20 UMC plug, you can push it to ~4.8kW, safely. Hot-Neutral-Ground just changes to Hot-Hot-Ground or Hot-Hot-Neutral.
Seeing as how the UMC's pilot signal is governed by the adapter on the input side and you can push whatever voltage you want through it (85-277.)
By using a 240 adapter on an official 5-15 or 5-20 UMC plug, you can push it to ~4.8kW, safely. Hot-Neutral-Ground just changes to Hot-Hot-Ground or Hot-Hot-Neutral.
eladts
Member
Electric700
Active Member
krazineurons
krazineurons
Sorry am joining the party late but I may need a very similar setup so asking this question. I have a 240v 20A outlet. Based on your recommendation what I understood is that I make a pigtail cord where one side is female 5-20 and another side is male 6-20, connecting the male to the outlet and plugging in the Tesla 5-20 in the female and am all set to charge with the UMC. Is that correct? What is the best way to chop and join again? Does it need any special wiring or considerations?
If I'm understanding you correctly, you would then be using the Tesla 5-20 adapter to properly set the volts to 20amp (16amps charging) then proceed to charge at 240v?
Best way is the safest way if you attempt this. That means the properly rated wire, properly rated plugs/receptacles on each end, watertight if you can get them. I went with 1 size over in wire gauge for even a short distance of 12 inches. As for the pinout, I referenced Wikipedia, then a UL certified electrician, then here, just to make sure everything was in order. You'll be dealing with two 120v hots and neutral (no ground) I believe.
Brass Guy
Active Member
The 6-20 should be hot-hot-ground, not neutral. The adapter should work perfectly with the Tesla, but make sure not to leave the adapter around since it would also allow anyone to plug any 120V device in there.
Similar threads
