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12v battery issue explanation, sort of...

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As I understand it, the lead battery is better in theory at handling frequent deep current demands that would harm Li batteries.
Depends on the lithium battery. LiFePO4 and Li titanate could easily handle it, and remember Tesla uses a very small lead acid battery, so currents can't be that high.
The converters would burn out trying to supply the initial demand loads of the heat pumps etc.
Not if the converter was sized for it, but yes a battery in the system allows you to use a smaller converter, (as would a capacitor bank, but without the storage component the battery provides.)
 
In the meantime (and at the very least) those of us who are not handy at all, and in my case somewhat daunted, should absolutely get a "hands on" lesson on removing the nose cone and jumping the 12 volt. If I had seen it/done it once, I could have (most likely) avoided the towing fiasco that ensued when my initial 12 volt went tango uniform.

+1 Spent an hour on the phone with Tesla trying to remove it. Actually, they were not giving me the right procedure as my nose cone was a different design that they've expected.
 
I'd hold off on condemning the design too quickly.... Tesla has identified a substandard component, and until that's rectified we really don't know that there's any deficiency in the design.

As for the whole system, it may be helpful to think of the components as analogs to their ICE counterparts:

-Tesla 12V battery = ICE 12v battery: responsible for light loads while vehicle off; manages systems responsible for starting main power source up from off state

-Tesla DC-DC Converter = ICE Alternator/regulator: Convert power from main power source to 12v for running heavier loads and to recharge 12v battery

-Tesla Traction battery = ICE engine: main power source for vehicle providing locomotion and running heavy loads, and input to convert to 12v


NOTE: This is the "electrical/power source" model... obviously the main traction motor comes in to play for moving the Tesla, and gas plays a role as fuel for the ICE... but the idea is useful for thinking about how the Tesla is built.
 
With all due respect, those who believe the 12v battery isn't an issue - you surely haven't been stranded two times in the middle of nowhere or in an indoor parking garage unable to have the car towed... ;)

I was stranded twice in my GTI with a dead 12V battery. I don't consider it a design issue.

EVERY SINGLE CAR MADE uses a 12v Pb-acid battery to start it. The issue is NOT the DESIGN! It is the quality of the battery, or the method of keeping it charged, not the fact there is a 12V battery!
 
Well, I won't hold off condemning the design. It is pretty obvious Tesla didn't think through what happens when the battery OR DC-DC converter dies. Many people have had their 12V battery die with no warning (is that what happened to you, patp?). Taking off the nose cone is not as simple as opening the hood on an ICE. If Tesla's backup is a 12V jump, then the terminals should be made available without taking body panels off. I would also suggest that there are better ways other than external jumps to give you a backup to the 12V battery - such a manually operated contactor relay that powers a DC-DC converter to allow self-jumping. OR, and here's a crazy idea, get rid of the 12V battery entirely since it is a part that routinely fails anyways. The initial Roadsters didn't have them. You CAN engineer an electric car to not need them. It IS possible. Tesla just decided to not do it (to be fair AFAIK other electric car makers have them too, but why can't Tesla be better).
 
I was stranded twice in my GTI with a dead 12V battery. I don't consider it a design issue.

EVERY SINGLE CAR MADE uses a 12v Pb-acid battery to start it. The issue is NOT the DESIGN! It is the quality of the battery, or the method of keeping it charged, not the fact there is a 12V battery!

But the method of keeping it charged, the size of the battery used, and the location of the terminals so it can be jump started are design decisions. I don't have enough info to determine whether the battery capacity is sufficient for its intended use, and I wouldn't go so far as to call it a flawed design, but I would say it can be improved.
 
I was stranded twice in my GTI with a dead 12V battery. I don't consider it a design issue.

EVERY SINGLE CAR MADE uses a 12v Pb-acid battery to start it. The issue is NOT the DESIGN! It is the quality of the battery, or the method of keeping it charged, not the fact there is a 12V battery!

I think there is an issue with the design. Like you, I have been stranded also due to a dead battery. Here's the difference though between the Tesla design and most any other car maker's design: The battery is easily consumer replaceable. That means I don't have to wait for someone from Tesla to change out my dead battery, I can choose to do it myself or have it changed by any competent mechanic. That is a huge difference as it means my downtime and when my car is back in service is not dictated by Tesla but rather by me. I have a choice.

Another concern is the battery appears to be outfitted with a circuit that prevents an equivalent battery from being substituted. For a commodity item that needs periodic replacement, that design decision by Tesla means only they can replace the battery. No aftermarket competition = higher costs to the consumer.
 
I'll say it again. I think Tesla has made a major design error by relying on the tiny 12V battery to start the car.

This quote started off this whole tangent. The first post suggested the 12V batteries were failing due to poor build quality, which would mess up even the best designed system.

It's pretty easy to access the terminals. Just pop off the nose cone.

Maybe a bit harder than than popping the hood, pulling off the engine cover plastic, then the battery cover plastic, but still in the same realm of difficulty of getting to terminals.

Wouldn't you know it, a day after this revelation I get the "12v battery warning - service soon" error when I start the car this morning.

One call to service and 90 minutes later they have a tech at my office to swap the battery. 30 minutes later I'm good to go. Amazing service.

Seems like replacing the battery isn't all that difficult, or time intensive. Not sure if there was a special tool involved. But I can tell you I broke the coolant loop in my GTI changing out the battery, and I also had to go to Sears and buy another socket extension because I needed about 12" worth to get to the nuts to the battery strap in my GTI. Even with all the tools I wouldn't say you could change the GTI battery in less than 30 minutes.

With all the excellent engineering that seems to have gone into this car, is the 12V issue really an easy fix or was the perfect solution not done for cost reasons. Find it hard to believe they made such a design flaw when everything else seems on track (missing software features being added over time excluded).

Exactly, Tesla did this to start. It didn't work well. 12V batteries DO WORK WELL. EVERY CAR MADE HAS ONE TO START THEM!

It is pretty obvious Tesla didn't think through what happens when the battery OR DC-DC converter dies.

I am sure they did. The same thing happens when your 12V dies in ANY OTHER CAR. It wont start. And if your alternator goes, same thing.

Many people have had their 12V battery die with no warning (is that what happened to you, patp?).

A lot of people ARE getting 12V warnings. The only warning I got in my GTI was the windows not all going up at the same time for about a week prior to dead. My wifes Civic gave NO warning at all. She went to work, parked, then came out 4 hours later and dead. New battery and everything has been great for another 3 years.

Taking off the nose cone is not as simple as opening the hood on an ICE. If Tesla's backup is a 12V jump, then the terminals should be made available without taking body panels off. I would also suggest that there are better ways other than external jumps to give you a backup to the 12V battery - such a manually operated contactor relay that powers a DC-DC converter to allow self-jumping. OR, and here's a crazy idea, get rid of the 12V battery entirely since it is a part that routinely fails anyways. The initial Roadsters didn't have them. You CAN engineer an electric car to not need them. It IS possible. Tesla just decided to not do it (to be fair AFAIK other electric car makers have them too, but why can't Tesla be better).

I agree a manually operated contactor could be nice. I don't know how feasible that is. I imagine that it would have to be very large, and might not be easy to close by button press. Tesla DID engineer a car that didn't need a 12V battery. Their FIRST car. But they stopped doing it, probably because having a 12V is a better solution.

But the method of keeping it charged, the size of the battery used, and the location of the terminals so it can be jump started are design decisions. I don't have enough info to determine whether the battery capacity is sufficient for its intended use, and I wouldn't go so far as to call it a flawed design, but I would say it can be improved.

Not saying it can't get better.

I think there is an issue with the design. Like you, I have been stranded also due to a dead battery. Here's the difference though between the Tesla design and most any other car maker's design: The battery is easily consumer replaceable. That means I don't have to wait for someone from Tesla to change out my dead battery, I can choose to do it myself or have it changed by any competent mechanic. That is a huge difference as it means my downtime and when my car is back in service is not dictated by Tesla but rather by me. I have a choice.

Another concern is the battery appears to be outfitted with a circuit that prevents an equivalent battery from being substituted. For a commodity item that needs periodic replacement, that design decision by Tesla means only they can replace the battery. No aftermarket competition = higher costs to the consumer.

I would think it you could get at it. Apparently removing the nose cone isn't all that hard to get to. Sure it isn't as easy at getting at my wife's Civic's battery terminals but it shouldn't be that hard. I'll test it out when I get home.
 
I'm ok with just the 12v warning. In this case you could stay home, go to a convenient location etc... and wait for the ranger to change your battery. I'm aware that this might not work in every scenario for every owner. Even a non defective 12 volt is going to fail eventually. In my case, I didn't get the warning and downloading 4.4 (or attempting to) drained it enough to go past the warning threshold and kill it. I was stranded. I wont ever install the update again unless I'm home.
 
If you look at the threads of other forums that cover cars with a large battery, one of the more common complaints is that the 12V battery had problems. In my opinion, the problem is that the designers of cars with large batteries use way too small a 12V battery and reliability suffers. They also don't provide any monitoring for the 12V battery so one day the car doesn't start and you have a ticked-off owner. This doesn't happen in an old fashioned car because the starter motor starts to sound weak when the battery is failing so it's more-or-less self-monitoring.
 
Anyone using bad battery placement designs in ICE's to justify the same in the Model S is rather making the point that it's a bad design. Also as I've said a car with 60+kWh of on board electrical storage should never be stranded by a 12V battery. A manual contactor would not have to be large because you aren't using large current to turn over a motor, you're using a small amount of current to engage contactors or relays. As I've also pointed out the fact that some people have reported battery voltages in excess of 15V means Tesla also has had DC/DC converter problems as well as a bad batch of 12V batteries.
 
I would think it you could get at it. Apparently removing the nose cone isn't all that hard to get to. Sure it isn't as easy at getting at my wife's Civic's battery terminals but it shouldn't be that hard. I'll test it out when I get home.

Removing the nose cone will give you access to the secondary battery terminals, which are remote from the battery. Replacing the battery itself is a much more labor intensive job; certainly not the 5-10 minute exchange that can be done at a Pep Boys, Sears, or other local battery service center with the traditional 12v battery under the hood type setup. Out of warranty cost I expect to be north of $300 for the battery and labor. Doesn't need to be that labor intensive imo.
 
a lot of talk about "self jumping"

just wanna make sure everybody knows that "self jumping" has been around for decades. most RV have this feature. a momentary switch under the seat, using onboard "house" battery to jump the 12v battery in case of 12v failure.
 
I was stranded twice in my GTI with a dead 12V battery. I don't consider it a design issue.

EVERY SINGLE CAR MADE uses a 12v Pb-acid battery to start it. The issue is NOT the DESIGN! It is the quality of the battery, or the method of keeping it charged, not the fact there is a 12V battery!

Apple vs oranges. The Model S is dead when the 12V battery is low. With an ICE, you jump start it and you're ready to go to a garage or move the car to get towed. Plus, on most car it's easy to buy a new battery and just replace it. On the S, it's a very difficult process.
 
Apple vs oranges. The Model S is dead when the 12V battery is low. With an ICE, you jump start it and you're ready to go to a garage or move the car to get towed. Plus, on most car it's easy to buy a new battery and just replace it. On the S, it's a very difficult process.

Plus, if you have to you can put an ICE car in neutral when the 12 volt is dead and get it on the trailer without trashing it.
 
Seems like replacing the battery isn't all that difficult, or time intensive. Not sure if there was a special tool involved. But I can tell you I broke the coolant loop in my GTI changing out the battery, and I also had to go to Sears and buy another socket extension because I needed about 12" worth to get to the nuts to the battery strap in my GTI. Even with all the tools I wouldn't say you could change the GTI battery in less than 30 minutes.

Trust me on this, it is difficult and time intensive, as far as battery replacements go. The Indy pit crew can swap out tires in a matter of seconds with the right crew, training and equipment. It would take me orders of magnitude more time to do myself. Point is, these guys have been getting a LOT of 12V battery trouble calls and have been practiced. Trust me on this.
And because he had to come to my home to swap mine out, I got to see the process. The Tesla tech was very proud of his time of 35 minutes to finish the procedure. The fact that holding the mag-lite for the tech eased his installation process even though it was the middle of the day in a fairly well-lit garage tells you how deep the recess is to get to the battery and the bolts to connect everything back up. The J-hooks that are on either side of the tray that holds the battery don't stay put either. They just flop around and the tech was aware of this situation from previous installs so he used duct tape to stand these mounting hooks in the vertical position so he could get to them and bolt the battery down. Poor guy will have to change it out again too, since this one died within 48 hours.
 
The J-hooks that are on either side of the tray that holds the battery don't stay put either. They just flop around and the tech was aware of this situation from previous installs so he used duct tape to stand these mounting hooks in the vertical position so he could get to them and bolt the battery down.
Ridiculous to use J hooks in a difficult location. I'm starting to think the entire 12V battery setup was designed by someone secretly working for Tesla's competition. The more we learn the worse it gets. :rolleyes: