1.5 or 2.x? The 12v systems are completely different.
It is a Sport, so 2.x
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I thought #114 was the one he re-imported for the UK in working condition. I'm assuming (hoping) this is a different, dead Roadster.
Have you read the history? I'm under the impression he charges people for his "expertise" and then comes and asks all of us how to deliver on his commitments. But maybe that's just my interpretation.
It is a different vehicle, not the 1.5; it is a 2.0Sport.
I didn't come on the forum clueless as to what is going on, we just got into this vehicle yesterday for a few hours, haven't really had the time to go through it due to a myriad of other issues it has going on, my question was relatively specific, however it's quite alright if the information isn't readily available, we will, no doubt, have this figured out by the end of the day today!
We are not working on a customer car, just to put your mind at ease on that! We are in R&D mode and learning more about more systems, we have extensively gone through the PEM and are fully prepared to take on PEM challenges, this is something new, just haven't seen it yet is all. The responses here (from some) are suggesting I should "wear a mask" and not be open in the slightest bit that I may not know 100% of everything there is to know (does anyone? I've found, Tesla themselves doesn't...), seems there are a few of us here ready to jump on these opportunities to down-play our efforts. This attitude doesn't bother me, personally, but it is less than helpful.
Thanks for all the responses though!
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Check the inertia switch on the left side of the ESS if it was a wreck. Push down on the center of the top to reset.
We did this as one of our first diagnostic steps, it didn't change anything, the vehicle was wrecked so it was "open" but we popped it back into the "close" position (double-checked with DMM).
I will add, we have found there is about a 60 seconds delay from applying 12V to the aux leads and getting headlight/hazards to actually turn on, which is odd...
My thoughts are now that there is a common ground that may be missing or a blown "master" fuse...
Thanks for the response!
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What's the story behind the car? Brick, wreck, theft? I'd have to know that in order to begin to help.
Bricked battery for sure, wrecked vehicle.
We have a spare ESS (with working APS, etc) to swap into the vehicle for testing but this does take a good portion of the day on labor so would like to explore other (simpler) options first. It seems there is either a wiring issue or component failure and wiring issues without wiring schematics is like hunting for a needle in a haystack, we'll find it but just looking for assistance from anyone who may have seen this before, component failures we can deal with more easily!