[Watch your CAC, no need to do a Range Mode.]
>How do you do this? I thought this was only available through the service screens.
Yes, as djp indicated you can access the CAC though OVMS or from the VMSparser with your Roadster logfile.
[In the first 2-3 weeks do full Standard mode charges and let it sit there when you're not driving, this will balance the pack out.]
>Do you mean sit there without charging?
Meaning, when you get home from work or driving charge the Roadster in Std. mode and let it sit overnight. Any chance you get, keep the Roadster above 80% SOC or full charged in Std. Mode. Once the charge is done there's no need to keep the charge cable connected. Then just drive the Roadster as you normally do, but when you come home charge it up again. This is only to ensure your pack is balanced. I'm not sure if the Technicians can see from your logs if your pack is balanced, if not, take a drive to Tesla in 2-3 weeks and ask them to view your balancing grid to see if your pack is fully balanced. After its balanced then you just wait for your CAC to climb. My CAC is maxed out now (just this morning) at 160 CAC so I can't climb any higher. I found two places where it recalculates the CAC. 1) After your 80%+ Std. Mode charge and the pack has had time to balance (I presume Range mode if you let it sit). And after you drive off and let it sit. My commute is 35 miles which pulls the SOC down from 82-84% to 70-74%. When I come back after 8 hours, I see the CAC again has been recalculated and I usually see a 0.15 increase, at times I'll saw a drop as well, but in majority of the cases it was growing. Then when you see your CAC appeared to have leveled off, Do a full charge in std. or range mode (I did a range mode charge here to pull all the cells up for a better re-calibration mark). Then after the Range mode charge is done, drive off! This is where you do the single key turn 70%+ draw of the pack and remember Do Not Turn Off the Roadster's Key! Come back and charge back to std. Now that I'm maxed out on my CAC value I'm going to do that 1-key turn / 70% pull of the pack to try and sync my ideal miles up with my CAC. I'll try to do that this or next weekend.
[After that, depending, you can draw 70% of the pack down on "1 key turn" and then charge.]
>Do you mean leave the ignition key in the accessory position?
I mean after you turn the key on to make the Roadster go and move forward, don't touch the key at all until you're home and ready to do you std. mode charge. You may want to write a sticky note to remind you, can be tricky
>I am reasonably technical myself and have a great rapport with the tech's. Byron (the Roadster master tech in Miami) suggested range-charging, then driving until "very low".
I think this (above) is the one-key turn drive we were talking about.
>I also would stay off 110V charging. I don't know why people rely on that, its just asking for the pack to become unbalanced and doesn't buy you anything long term. Only time I use 110 is when I don't have any other option to charge and with that I'm still sketched and make sure I balance my pack after that off of a 240v/30amp charge. I didn't realize that 110v was THAT bad. I know that the techs have said that charging on their charges (HPA) helps to balance the pack (I only have 110v and the UMC.)
Its not that 110V is bad to charge off of, its that it takes soooo long to actually reach a full state of charge. From the technicians I talked to they said that the Roadsters they saw who charged off of 110V (I presume primarily) always had battery packs that were way out of balance since most likely as soon as the Roadster is charged they drive off before its balanced or unplug before a full charged is reached As djp indicated, it is inefficient. I did it for the 1st time over the weekend, got 20 miles at most from a good nights charge on 110v/15amps and was happy to unplug it and charge at 240v/32amps quickly there after! It is good to always keep the 110V mobile connector in the car for emergencies and if you need to cool down the pack if you're stuck in an extreme hot condition.
>Another thing to note was that the front tires did not wear evenly. The driver's front wore out the inside of the tire. As I understand it, the Roadster d
does not have any alignment?
My fronts of my Roadster are wearing the same way but not as bad on the inside, I believe this is due to the negative camber. It appears to be set very aggressively. Looking at your pictures it appears you don't even touch your outside edge. I guess you don't push your Roadster hard in turns since you're in Florida where there aren't as many hard turns but mostly straights? The outside corner of my Roadster's front edges are feeling the tarmac and have their edges cut up from pushing it hard and playing with the understeering. The rears do the same as you know with the wear on the insides. Negative camber is done typically to gain better handling through turns. With sports cars that have negative camber you have to train yourself to check the tires for tire wear from the inside out
Example of an Extreme Negative Camber:
