Trunk release issues

[Roadster]

Started having intermittent trunk release issues so I'm taking the Thanksgiving break to do some maintenance. Some questions...

There are three 8MM bolts (and fender washers so have a magnet handy, behind the rubber knock outs.

I was attempting to pull these out into the trunk. Should I be pushing them out of the trunk? Presumably, also you'll need to drop the lower pan to retrieve them for reattachment, correct?

From the drivers side on the inside of the rear bumper I could see a cover 1/4 the way from the latch in the cable run. I removed that cover and low and be hold, an adjustment barrel. So I ended up loosening the cable giving it more slack. I then found where the passenger side cable adjustment was, behind the Tesla name in the rear. You have to get to it from where the actuator sits. Its a pain but doable. I then loosened that one. Closed the trunk. Tried opening it via the inside trunk release, and waaa-Laaa, the drivers side popped open but not the passenger side, so trial & error, played with the barrel. And got both working.

Does someone have a photo of what the cable adjusters look like? My passenger side is the one that needs adjusting so hopefully it's not too hard to reach. Or is it better to just remove the bumper completely like @MLAUTO recommended?

Next I had to tune the Key remote. For some reason that behavior is a little different, but I ended up finding a sweet spot for that which worked for both trunk release mechanisms. And the key just worked!

Didn't realize the key remote requires tuning! Anyone have info on how to do this?

 

[dhrivnak]

Started having intermittent trunk release issues so I'm taking the Thanksgiving break to do some maintenance. Some questions...

I was attempting to pull these out into the trunk. Should I be pushing them out of the trunk? Presumably, also you'll need to drop the lower pan to retrieve them for reattachment, correct?

Does someone have a photo of what the cable adjusters look like? My passenger side is the one that needs adjusting so hopefully it's not too hard to reach. Or is it better to just remove the bumper completely like @MLAUTO recommended?

Didn't realize the key remote requires tuning! Anyone have info on how to do this?

I successfully pulled the bolts into the trunk. I did not need to remove the trunk liner. As for “tuning” I did not know that was possible. And not sure it is necessary in most cases.

 

[Roadster]

I was able to address my trunk latch issues today thanks to the great instructions in this thread. Fortunately for me, apart from a heavily deteriorated boot, my actuator was in good working order so all I needed to do was (a) replace the struts and (b) shorten the passenger side cable by adjusting it to allow the latch's retain/release cam to pull in a tad more. Here are my observations/learnings:

1. Pry the rubber plugs inward using a flathead screwdriver. They're durable and can handle the compression needed in order to remove them and gain access to the taillamp housing mounting hardware.
2. Use a deep socket to remove the lock nuts holding the taillamp housing in place. This pushes the nut deeper into the barrel as you unscrew to lessen the chance of dropping it.
3. Unless you have extremely skinny fingers, you'll need a strong magnet to extract the washers from the access holes. My magnet tool worked fine for the nuts but the washers for some reason were barely attracted.
4. Remove the emergency release T handle by turning it 90 degrees to clear the retaining nub at the end.
5. In addition to the three Torx screws holding the actuator bracket in place, make sure to also remove the plastic Philips screw and expansion sleeve found in the holster where the emergency release handle is stowed.
6. If adjustments to either of the cables is needed, remove the two Torx bolts holding the respective latch in place. This affords you more slack to gain better access to the cable adjuster (see Fig. 1). Make sure to position the backing bracket accordingly when reattaching the latch.
7. The cable adjuster "cover" mentioned by @wiztecy is simply a cylindrical insulator.
8. Make sure to route the emergency release cable back through the opening to the trunk compartment before reattaching the actuator bracket.
9. Use a nut driver to hold the taillamp housing lock nuts in the perfect position for screwing them back onto the studs.

Figure 1. Passenger trunk latch release cable adjuster pictured with driver's side taillamp removed.

 

[hcsharp]

1. Pry the rubber plugs inward using a flathead screwdriver. They're durable and can handle the compression needed in order to remove them and gain access to the taillamp housing mounting hardware.

They're durable enough for a screwdriver but If you use a hair drier it makes them nice and soft. You can then easily remove them with just your fingers. The hair dryer is especially helpful when putting them back in.

Unless you have extremely skinny fingers, you'll need a strong magnet to extract the washers from the access holes. My magnet tool worked fine for the nuts but the washers for some reason were barely attracted.

A magnet is a bit fiddly, and like you said it doesn't work very well with the washers. I've found that a pair of needle-nose pliers works way better. Open them wide, reach straight in and grab the outside edges of the washer. Holds it much more securely than a magnet.

If you live where it's wet or salty, I recommend replacing the lock nuts, bolts, and washers with stainless steel. Then the magnet becomes totally obsolete.

 

[drewski]

My magnet tool worked fine for the nuts but the washers for some reason were barely attracted.

Washers could be stainless steel, which, depending on the type, can be non-magnetic.

<snip>
Didn't realize the key remote requires tuning! Anyone have info on how to do this?

I read the "tuning" of the remote as playing with the cable length similar to the other release methods (dash button or key lock)

 

[Brentt]

Great thread. My roadster started playing these shenanigans a couple of weeks ago. I figured the release would eventually quit working , so I left the trunk open the last time I used it. I plan on tackling it as soon as I get a chance, and all the info in this thread will definitely help!

 

[Brentt]

I was able to address my trunk latch issues today thanks to the great instructions in this thread. Fortunately for me, apart from a heavily deteriorated boot, my actuator was in good working order so all I needed to do was (a) replace the struts and (b) shorten the passenger side cable by adjusting it to allow the latch's retain/release cam to pull in a tad more. Here are my observations/learnings:

1. Pry the rubber plugs inward using a flathead screwdriver. They're durable and can handle the compression needed in order to remove them and gain access to the taillamp housing mounting hardware.
2. Use a deep socket to remove the lock nuts holding the taillamp housing in place. This pushes the nut deeper into the barrel as you unscrew to lessen the chance of dropping it.
3. Unless you have extremely skinny fingers, you'll need a strong magnet to extract the washers from the access holes. My magnet tool worked fine for the nuts but the washers for some reason were barely attracted.
4. Remove the emergency release T handle by turning it 90 degrees to clear the retaining nub at the end.
5. In addition to the three Torx screws holding the actuator bracket in place, make sure to also remove the plastic Philips screw and expansion sleeve found in the holster where the emergency release handle is stowed.
6. If adjustments to either of the cables is needed, remove the two Torx bolts holding the respective latch in place. This affords you more slack to gain better access to the cable adjuster (see Fig. 1). Make sure to position the backing bracket accordingly when reattaching the latch.
7. The cable adjuster "cover" mentioned by @wiztecy is simply a cylindrical insulator.
8. Make sure to route the emergency release cable back through the opening to the trunk compartment before reattaching the actuator bracket.
9. Use a nut driver to hold the taillamp housing lock nuts in the perfect position for screwing them back onto the studs.

View attachment 482310
Figure 1. Passenger trunk latch release cable adjuster pictured with driver's side taillamp removed.

I ordered the new actuator and am in the process of installing it. I removed the covers, but How did you get to the adjuster cables to loosen the nuts?

 

[Roadster]

7. If adjustments to either of the cables is needed, remove the two Torx bolts holding the respective latch in place. This affords you more slack to gain better access to the cable adjuster (see Fig. 1). Make sure to position the backing bracket accordingly when reattaching the latch.
​

It's pretty tight quarters if you use this method. You can also completely detach the cables from the latches if you need more room/access.

 

[Brentt]

Project complete. The new actuator recommended by wiztecy is plug and play. Even the color coding of the wires are the same.
As mentioned, the entire mechanism is way over complicated. My old solenoid was good, but the new one operates with much more authority. I still had to adjust the cables which is a PITA. I literally had to grease my hand to get it inside the opening without getting stuck.
I had to adjust the cables about 3/8 of an inch. Fortunately the locking nuts were loose and I was able to adjust them by hand. If you haven’t already tackled this project, I’d recommend going ahead and getting it out of the way. After fooling with the mechanism it’s obvious it’s only a matter of time before all of them have problems, and it’s better to do it before you get locked out of the trunk.

 

[Bill_Baron]

The stock actuator is way underpowered. They come with as little as 4 lbs of force all the way up to 12 lbs. Not sure what Tesla used. I used a little bigger one with 17 lbs of force and all my problems are gone.

So it's my turn to have a stuck trunk. MLAUTO, do you recall what actuator you used? I think if I'd like to upgrade mine as well.

 

[ML Auto]

I used these. You have to drill one or two small holes in the bracket to bolt it on but it is a lot more powerful.

2 Heavy Duty Car and Truck Door Lock Motors, Powerful Aftermarket Actuators | eBay

 

[Bill_Baron]

I used these. You have to drill one or two small holes in the bracket to bolt it on but it is a lot more powerful.

2 Heavy Duty Car and Truck Door Lock Motors, Powerful Aftermarket Actuators | eBay

Awesome, thanks, I'll give them a try!