I believe there's a few threads on this issue, would be nice to merge them. But I find the odd thing is that multiple people were having a similar issue of the trunk not opening or being sporadic including me
I finally got locked out of my trunk for good, so I had to dig in. I have some pics and will update hopefully at a later date.
So my trunk release issue was a combination of multiple factors that caused it to stick, then work, stick then work and so on. I ended up removing the inside trunk emergency pull and that helped, it reduced drag of the whole linkage trunk system. But be warned that if there are kids in your family, don't do that. However, that thing won't work anyway if the trunk sticks. Its mostly a lawsuit thing with your neighbors. So be warned.
So I first had to remove jack both rear wheels up, remove the wheels, remove the rear fender liner, then find and pull *gently* on the trunk cable. But be very careful, there's a plastic grommet that houses the cable end to the latch. I can break easily and get damaged. I cracked the one on the drivers side, but its still functional and no issue with it now in terms of negatively affecting functionality. Once I successfully popped the trunk, I then removed the drivers tail-light to get to the actuator and linkage. The actuator no longer worked, pressing the trunk release inside or via key was a fail. Also using the key still didn't release the trunk. So anyway I was able to unbolt the linkage and actuator. Be warned, take a pic of how this thing is put together before you take things apart. Its complicated. I discovered the rubber sleeve that is like an accordion had deteriorated. That allowed dirt and dust as well as water to enter the actuator. So I took the entire actuator apart, cleaned it, lubed with wd-40 lightly, and then hooked it to a 12v motorcycle battery to work it. It at first was very slow and weak. But I kept helping it out and it got better. I did find a similar actuator on Amazon, two of them for something like $8.62 with free shipping. It had the same look, same sleeve, etc. But that didn't show up quickly, so I ended up fixing this one. I then put the actuator back on the Roadster as well as the assembly and tested. I could hear the actuator working and see it working, but again the trunk was stuck again.
I then took everything apart, making sure the actuator fired properly and that the linkage moved freely. It did. Installed it again, and still locked out. So then popped the trunk and looked closer at the cable route. From the drivers side on the inside of the rear bumper I could see a cover 1/4 the way from the latch in the cable run. I removed that cover and low and be hold, an adjustment barrel. So I ended up loosening the cable giving it more slack. I then found where the passenger side cable adjustment was, behind the Tesla name in the rear. You have to get to it from where the actuator sits. Its a pain but doable. I then loosened that one. Closed the trunk. Tried opening it via the inside trunk release, and waaa-Laaa, the drivers side popped open but not the passenger side, so trial & error, played with the barrel. And got both working. Next I had to tune the Key remote. For some reason that behavior is a little different, but I ended up finding a sweet spot for that which worked for both trunk release mechanisms. And the key just worked! I put everything back together and the Roadster has been fine not locking me out at all. I believe over 6 months have passed already and no issue. Also my Amazon.com actuators showed up, but I have no need to use them just yet. My actuator boot is still gone. I pulled off all that was left, so the actuator is still being exposed to the elements. But when it gets sticky I have 2 spare actuators which I believe will work in terms of strength. They look identical. And if that does not work, I have 2 extra boots for the original one. So I can always revive the old one again if needed.
Below are the actuators I ordered:
Amazon.com: CrazyforDeals Universal Car Power Door Lock Actuator 12-Volt Motor (2 Pack): Automotive
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Here are the pics... As you can see, the trunk release mechanism is an overly complex piece of hardware, more than it has to be. Hence all the drag everything gets over time and with crud.
That pic above with the white plastic, well that's the drivers side latch. You can see the fragile plastic housing I described earlier when you try to release the trunk by pulling on the cable. So be careful, don't just pull haphazardly on the cable, ensure you're not stressing this part as you try to break into your own trunk. I had to take the latch off since the cable came undone from the latch due to all the monkeying around. .