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Typically, I set my State of Charge for:

  • 60%

    Votes: 14 8.8%
  • 70%

    Votes: 23 14.4%
  • 75%

    Votes: 4 2.5%
  • 80%

    Votes: 44 27.5%
  • 85%

    Votes: 8 5.0%
  • 90%

    Votes: 66 41.3%
  • 95%

    Votes: 1 0.6%
  • 100% all the time

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    160
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Like mknox, when I first got the car there were two options, Standard or Max Range. Standard was around 92%, if I recall correctly.

70% is more than enough for my day to day, but also like mknox, I've seen a pretty good reduction in rated miles at 100%. I'm also down about 20 miles, I assume it was either the pack needing to be balanced, or a change in the algorithm. Either way, not a big deal to me. I'll try charging to 90% for a week or so and see what happens.
 
Like mknox, when I first got the car there were two options, Standard or Max Range. Standard was around 92%, if I recall correctly.

70% is more than enough for my day to day, but also like mknox, I've seen a pretty good reduction in rated miles at 100%. I'm also down about 20 miles, I assume it was either the pack needing to be balanced, or a change in the algorithm. Either way, not a big deal to me. I'll try charging to 90% for a week or so and see what happens.

I charge at 80% on most days and 90% or 100% when traveling (depending). Last weekend's range charge gave 299/300 Ideal miles at 47K miles and 2.25 years). I've seen Ideal miles as low as 297/300. The Rated range numbers don't bother me a bit because Tesla changes the algorithm so often.
 
I charge at 80% on most days and 90% or 100% when traveling (depending). Last weekend's range charge gave 299/300 Ideal miles at 47K miles and 2.25 years). I've seen Ideal miles as low as 297/300. The Rated range numbers don't bother me a bit because Tesla changes the algorithm so often.

And I apologize for the newbie-ness, but the IDEAL range is shown on the 18" and the RATED range is shown on the driver's display? Just trying to understand the differences.

My Volt's range was amazingly accurate. It took into account driving conditions, style (aggressiveness), A/C use, etc. I'm guessing this RATED range is similar to that?
 
Ideal vs. Rated is a user-selectable option in settings and applies to both displays (if showing miles vs. percent of battery). I believe Ideal is a/c, flat roads, 55 mph, no wind. Meanwhile, Rated is the EPA's tested range based on their multi-circumstance/stage testing that mixes highway and city driving.
 
Kind of. The Energy app's Projected Range updates as you drive based on Tesla's algorithms of how you have been driving over the past 5/15/30 miles. The Rated Range is constantly recalculated based on the EPA testing parameters for how much you have left. Since the RR doesn't directly correlate to your driving, some people like the percentage display instead. It eliminates one guess.

Basically, at 70% Rated Range may say 185. Let's say over the next 10 miles you aggressively go up a hill and now you have 60% battery left. RR will now be 159. So it is always calculated on the remaining battery, not your driving style, but remaining battery will constantly change based on how you drive.

Note though that Tesla has tweaked how much of the battery is available (vs. reserve) and the algorithm for displaying that, so that makes it look like RR has been tweaked.
 
Perhaps I've simply not searched with the right keywords, but so far I've been unable to find a detailed explanation from Tesla as to how best to maintain battery health. Plenty of simplistic generalized comments and plenty of opinions from owners, but so far nothing that a technically-minded person can read, and then *understand and determine* what is best to do in different situations.

Perhaps it's just the geek in me that wants to know the details and reasoning, but I'm sure there are plenty of others who would like more than the casual '90% is fine' from the delivery agent!

I'm sure that Tesla would prefer the public perception to be simple and foolproof so that opponents don't seize on any complicated details as a weakness in the system, but I for one would like to do the best by my car.
 
... I've been unable to find a detailed explanation from Tesla as to how best to maintain battery health. .
Perhaps it's just the geek in me that wants to know the details and reasoning....
First, I do not claim to be an expert on li-ion chemistry or performance. Second, I really have wanted to know. Third, I have had a very specific interest in that I had an airplane which had a li-ion that had a thermal runaway and subsequently was retrofitted with a ni-cad.

So, when the NTSB had hearings about the Boeing 787 battery woes i trundled off to Washington, DC for a couple of days listening to engineers, physicists and industry people discussion battery chemistry, cell sizes, fault causes, quality control, charging controllers and health management, among other things. I learned an enormous amount, not least from the tesla head of battery QC, who was the only person in the room who seemed to have herself completely in command of the facts.

Therefore I have formed a few opinions, which I think are well informed. Among them are:
1. Regardless of specific chemistry battery manufacturing quality control is more important than most other topics;
2. Testing, testing, documentation and monitoring are necessary at cell level. Only Tesla was doing all that at the time of the NTSB hearings.
3. Charging and discharging procedures, including load balancing should be complexity automated because manual processes will not be reliable; people will misuse the batteries.

The net of those things was that Tesla had designed the production, quality control and battery management to minimise as many problems as possible. Thus, all the lessons that we all have heard about, including daily charge management advice, are predicated on much less capable systems than we have in our cars. Most of the advice we get, including form many Tesla employees, reflected old historical wisdom, but not the state of our own vehicles.

By definition daily 100% charging can shorten battery life, just as regular operation below 10% will do so. That said, tesla systems do protect from overcharging and Tesla heat management protects from excessive rate of charge, which is why we hear our battery fans operating while Supercharging. Low state of charge is riskier simply because we might run out of juice, although "bricking" in Tesla is not easy to do. So, all of us are obsessing about what, in practice, is fairly marginal for our cars.

I believe that but I still will not go below 20% except in rare situations and I will not go above 90% unless i will use the car immediately after charging to that level.

We can all be assured that were it not for all those built-in protections that we have battery management would be a bigger problem for us than it is.

Some other EV's do have good battery management, some don't. If it is a problem for your EV in hot weather you may be assured that thermal management in your vehicle is inadequate for normal fast charging, so fast chargers from your manufacturer probably have heat management issues themselves. Nissan CHAdeMO anybody?
A few others use such modest battery packs that these issues are less serious and/or use fairly low powered chargers. In any of those situations we can be assured that battery life span and power management issues are far more critical than they are for us.

All this represents my opinion rather than guaranteed fact. I hope it is accurate and I think it is, but I am not an electrical engineer, chemist nor a physicist.

One thing is clear, Tesla got it right. NASA, US Navy, Boeing and myriad others did not get it right. The net result is that we users get to debate optimal battery management without worrying ourselves unduly about thermal runaway, bricking and other catastrophic events. That is probably why Tesla replaces battery packs with anomalies ratehr than repair them in the field. Their paranoia keep us happy and safe!
 
Also, could those of you who are only charging to 50-60% have bought the smaller battery vehicle and saved some $?

There are a couple of considerations here.

First one must realize that these batteries do degrade over time and after a few years won't have the same capacity that they do when new. Even some of Tesla's copy now includes the words "when new" when talking about battery capacity. If you're right on the edge with a 60 or 70 kWh battery, you might have trouble in a few years.

The second consideration is that there are a finite number of charge/discharge cycles in the battery. One cycle is defined as Empty to Full, therefore charging from 50% to Full would be defined as half a charge cycle and so forth. A smaller battery will result in you consuming your battery's cycles faster since, for the same distance, you would be discharging the battery further as a percentage of its capacity.
 
First one must realize that these batteries do degrade over time and after a few years won't have the same capacity that they do when new. Even some of Tesla's copy now includes the words "when new" when talking about battery capacity. If you're right on the edge with a 60 or 70 kWh battery, you might have trouble in a few years.

Not to mention great Wh/mile usage in Colder Weather. So if you are at this edge on a 60 or 70 in the summer, you may have trouble in the winter.
 
There are a couple of considerations here.

First one must realize that these batteries do degrade over time and after a few years won't have the same capacity that they do when new. Even some of Tesla's copy now includes the words "when new" when talking about battery capacity. If you're right on the edge with a 60 or 70 kWh battery, you might have trouble in a few years.

The second consideration is that there are a finite number of charge/discharge cycles in the battery. One cycle is defined as Empty to Full, therefore charging from 50% to Full would be defined as half a charge cycle and so forth. A smaller battery will result in you consuming your battery's cycles faster since, for the same distance, you would be discharging the battery further as a percentage of its capacity.

These are both fantastic points MKNOX! It makes me feel even more confident with my selection of the 85D! Thanks.
 
TesS, P85Sig, .188 firmware
The car was delivered (65 miles) with the setting on "Standard" (92-93% according to REST). Later firmware changed this to "Daily" at the maximum value (90% according to REST). This setting (Standard, then Daily max) has been used continuously for the life of the vehicle. Currently have ~45k miles, with Daily max reporting 230-235 rated miles.

Mercury, P85D, .236 firmware
The car was delivered (~2800 miles) with the setting on "Daily" at the maximum value (90% according to REST). I use this setting for "normal use". For track events and travelling, I use 100% periodically. Currently have ~5k miles. I don't even charge it every day during normal work weeks.

Two primary reasons for purchasing the vehicles were "quite capable" range and "well designed" BMS. I just use them rather than obsess about them -- the battery packs that is. When the batteries break or reach severe degradation, I'll replace them. Life is short. Keep it simple when you can.
 
Another reason for opting for the 85kWh battery is that some Supercharger spacings are far enough apart so that a combination of elevation gain, temperature, wind, rain/snow all but eliminates driving with 60kWh. My recent trip driving west through Kansas from Hays to Goodland has an elevation gain of 1600+ feet, the temperatures were in the mid-50s, and I was driving into a 35MPH (mostly) head wind. I averaged 54 MPH for the 143-mile leg. I used 419 wh/mile. Despite charging to 94% (with the trip estimator reflecting a 32-33% buffer at arrival) and starting out beneath the speed limit at 65MPH, eventually I slowed to 48, and arrived with about 8% state of charge. (I did speed up the last 12 miles once the reserve indicator was at 12%, and I was assured of arriving safely.)
 
...driving west through Kansas from Hays to Goodland has an elevation gain of 1600+ feet,...
Many moons ago I used to make that trip about twice per month, in an ICE of course. I remember well that from Hays to Goodland I used an entire tank of gasoline in my guzzling mid-60's muscle car. On the return trip I arrived at hays with half a tank left. It's odd taht almost nobody thinks about those fctors in the context of ICE, but think about it constantly with an EV. Ubiquitous fuel sources are the reason I think Tesla Superchargers are such a fantastic idea, and paying for them in the initial purchase price an even better one.
 
The second consideration is that there are a finite number of charge/discharge cycles in the battery. One cycle is defined as Empty to Full, therefore charging from 50% to Full would be defined as half a charge cycle and so forth.

That's not correct as i understand it. two 50% charges are less than one 100% full cycle. Two 25% charges are less than a 50% cycle. So if a battery has a 1000 100% cycles (just a number for ease of calculation), it could have 2500 50% cycles, and 7000 25% cycles. This has been posted with some real numbers someplace, but the idea is that shallow charges will extend the life of the battery. Of course, there's deterioration just based on the number of months, but that's separate from the effect of cycles.
 
That's not correct as i understand it. two 50% charges are less than one 100% full cycle. Two 25% charges are less than a 50% cycle. So if a battery has a 1000 100% cycles (just a number for ease of calculation), it could have 2500 50% cycles, and 7000 25% cycles. This has been posted with some real numbers someplace, but the idea is that shallow charges will extend the life of the battery. Of course, there's deterioration just based on the number of months, but that's separate from the effect of cycles.
So the take-away from this to me would be that plugging in every time you get home is just good practice... even if you only drove a mile to the store and back. Assuming, of course, that you aren't trying to keep the charge above the 90% range where the battery just isn't happy.

For a week of back and forth to work, where I could *easily* do the whole week on one charge, I infer I'm better to set the 'full' level to perhaps 75 or 80% and plug in each night.
 
ScanSep2201311_40AM-page1.jpg
 
This has been posted with some real numbers someplace, but the idea is that shallow charges will extend the life of the battery.

Well, my point would still be valid in either case. A larger battery driven the same distance would result in a "shallower charge" as a percentage of the battery's capacity.

- - - Updated - - -

<Tesla graphic>

The text seems to suggest that the car will do stuff beyond just charging if it's left plugged in. That has not been my experience unless it's doing something without drawing any power from the wall. I have a dedicated meter and logger on my car's charging circuit and the only time in over 2 years I've ever seen any power flow is when the car is charging or when I've activated the HVAC via the mobile app.
 
This video should cover everything the geek in you ever wanted to know, and more. :)

Why do Li-ion Batteries die? And how to improve the situation?

If you can make it through this 1+ hour dissertation (the geek in me did yesterday) at the very end he says specifically 2 things will extend the life of the lithium ion battery:

(1) Put it in the fridge at night. If you keep any battery as cold as possible, it will last longer. Keep the temperature down. There isn't much you can do about this in Florida. But could the Tesla Battery Reminder suggest we leave it plugged in to engage the battery management system can regulate temperature? That would make a lot of sense.

(2) Don't store the battery at 100%. I think most of us agree that there's a sweet spot in any battery somewhere between >20% and < 100%. But the other interesting point this guy made was to store your battery at a lower voltage. If you aren't jumping in the car immediately, don't juice it to 100% (or maybe even 90%).

My take home: Top off as frequently as you can, but keep your voltage down unless you plan to drive immediately.