Thanks Sure beats $200 or whatever Tesla would charge.Damn, that is elegant. Nice work.
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Thanks Sure beats $200 or whatever Tesla would charge.Damn, that is elegant. Nice work.
Thanks for all that. I guess I’ll have one shortly.@David.85D The broken part was 1.72mm across the flats measured with my caliper. I tried a 1/16" (1.59mm) hex wrench (measured at 1.62mm) in the encoder and while it does turn it had a lot of slop in it. I just got lucky that my 1.5mm hex bit was actually 1.7mm and fit perfect. I also tried every 1/16" hex key at harbor freight hoping to find one that fit properly but didn't have any luck. 3D printing might work, but it would take a lot more fussing with it to get it just right, and even then it's not likely to be any stronger than the original. I considered getting some round stock, turning one side down to the right diameter and then grinding a hex onto the other side, but at that point getting it perfectly centered through the wheel would be difficult (it was hard enough to get the hole centered just on the one side). As I did it, the replacement hex shaft is supported inside the wheel by nearly the length it sticks out by, and all the gaps inside are filled with epoxy. If it breaks again the same way I'll be surprised.
I suspect they had a "large" 1/16" inch hex. I used a nominally 1.5mm hex that was actually 1.7mm. The hex key that I actually measured at 1/16 was too small for my taste, although it probably would have functioned.On the link in post nr.2 is said 1/16 inch
Great improvisation- I guess now this metal part is the strongest part in Tesla.My volume wheel just broke as well, looked the same as what @Pedro.Tx posted a while back. I ended up using the end of the 1.5mm bit (measured 1.7 across the flats) from my mini-screwdriver set (https://amzn.to/3kXOHba). It pained me to take the bit, but for $14 it's a lot cheaper than buying the parts from Tesla.
Steps I took after disassembling the assembly with the wheel in it:
1. Drilled out the broken hex with a 3/32" bit. I went deeper than necessary to give excess epoxy a place to go.
View attachment 706637
2. Cut the end off the bit where it starts to taper down to the 1.5mm end
View attachment 706635
3. Coated the inside of the scroll wheel with epoxy and inserted the bit.
4. After the epoxy started to gel up (I used a 30 minute work life epoxy) I carefully aligned it to make sure it was perpendicular to the face of the wheel.
5. Cured overnight and reassembled.
View attachment 706636
A complete kit with a metal shaft and repair Instructions is now available on eBay... no affiliation.I bought a broken one off eBay ;-)
I’ll measure and post more info after I get it. My first choice would be to 3D print a new part that fit a stainless steel pin that ran the whole length and carried all the stress
Sheesh, $45 for a cut down hex key? In case the seller is watching I also needed a T15 or T20 bit to remove the button assembly, I forget which though. And it's not necessary to disconnect the airbag connector, I did the whole thing without disconnecting anything other than the connectors for the controls.A complete kit with a metal shaft and repair Instructions is now available on eBay... no affiliation.
The other thought I had was designing and 3d printing a fixture to allow you to both drill out the old hex accurately and position the new one while the epoxy cures.
Is the new scroll wheel backward compatible with the old model?this is easy once I have the model of the original wheel.
on a related note, someone mentioned in another thread that new scroll wheels are metal, but the feel isn’t nice compared to the rubbery one.
Great design... are you planning to make a few available for sale to TMC members?Will print it in the morning... (This is a render of a solidworks model I just made)View attachment 709077