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thegruf
Active Member
Did I see that 6.2 has a new codec supposed to improve SQ?
Anybody have any experience of this
My issue as an imminent P85D purchaser is whether the UHFS is worth it at GBP2100 given the mixed reviews , but as the standard Audio does not have DAB Radio, the only way is to go UHFS
Anybody have any experience of this
My issue as an imminent P85D purchaser is whether the UHFS is worth it at GBP2100 given the mixed reviews , but as the standard Audio does not have DAB Radio, the only way is to go UHFS
If you are buying a P85D, the extra cost for the sound upgrade IMHO is a no brainer. It seems there is wide consensus on this thread that it is significantly better than the stock audio system, especially if you use a high quality audio source such as lossless audio tracks via USB.
Yes indeed - Anyone interested in sound quality and who can afford the extra 2% should go for the premium sound package.
So please, let's not make this thread an other 'should I upgrade' thread (let's focus on topic : premium sound quality)
The question is 'why is premium sound so obviously lacking rear power despite the fact that it sports +500 Watts (which is impressive enough)' - and 'can it be fixed by software upgrade or is the hardware set-up wrong?'
So please, let's not make this thread an other 'should I upgrade' thread (let's focus on topic : premium sound quality)
The question is 'why is premium sound so obviously lacking rear power despite the fact that it sports +500 Watts (which is impressive enough)' - and 'can it be fixed by software upgrade or is the hardware set-up wrong?'
Pinot.Noir
Member
Is the premium sound system able to play lossless 5.1 correctly? Any chance it can play Blu Ray or DVD-A?
Does anyone know if the Reus upgrade can add SiriusXM to the standard audio package? I believe for a while that was not the case but perhaps now things have changed? $2500 buys a lot in aftermarket car audio equipment and so I feel the Ultra High Fidelity Sound upgrade is not worth if for me. but it depresses me that Satellite radio is not an option with the basic radio b/c I have really gown to like it and will miss it when my Model S arrives.
Definitely. Just having bass from the subwoofer is worth it. The stock stereo is worse than my Jeep Wrangler's Alpine system (but I admit its pretty good for being in a Jeep!) and its below the audio you find in a Camry or Accord, no joke. Unless you have plans of adding a subwoofer to a non-premium stereo system- go for the Premium Audio upgrade.
Gizmotoy
Active Member
While wattage isn't a good measure for this sort of thing, the magnitudes are such that you'll likely find this telling:
Wattage (front): 320
Wattage (rear, excluding sub): 160
That's about the extent of it given the majority of the interior space is behind you, although the rear doors appear to be the same 40W 160mm units that everyone seems to hate in the standard sound package (where they're in both the front and rear doors). When paired with the meager 80mm 40W speakers in the hatch, there's just not much that can be done. The car is huge and half the power is up front, leaving little hope those far-away rear speakers to fill the rear of the vehicle with sound.
Again, I don't think that the setup is "wrong" so much as they purposefully chose concert staging. If that's the goal, you stack the front of the vehicle. Some people like that. I'm not one of them, but it does have fans. Given our massive interior volume, it might have been the best financial choice to keep costs down.
Cyclone
Cyclonic Member ((.oO))
Trying to avoid going off-topic too much, but Giz'd post hits home I believe. The rear has half the power of the front, and that's with the upgrade! I honestly think I might go standard + aftermarket. Hopefully 6.2's eminent release will give some details about the sound enhancements. While software cannot overcome this hardware bias to the front of the car, it might be able to help somewhat.
Don't expect anything other than a volume bump throughout the 1-11 volume range in the software update. I doubt there will be any difference at all. I know Elon is brilliant, but his tweets and promises are very underwhelming lately.. wheres that performance enhancing inverter update for the P cars again? Seems to have been quietly swept under the rug after his tweet. Sometimes he tweets BS and then later deletes them too. If wanting a true audiophile experience, rule of thumb is OEM will never satisfy you. With what you are saying, definitely go for the standard and upgrade it yourself. Problem is the console is not upgradable and it will be difficult to fine tune the sound with the OEM hardware, which obviously lacks pre-outs.
EarlyAdopter
Active Member
The system doesn't lack pre-outs, they're right there on the back of the center display unit. It's just a linux PC running on an Nvidia Tegra 3 chipset with standard PC-like soundcard output. The connectors just aren't standard RCA jacks, instead they're a Fakra-style automotive connector. Companies like Reus have been able to nicely integrate new amps and speakers into the stock system.
Reus uses a converter off the amplified audio to regain discrete to drive the amp(s).
Exactly- its just that fine tuning via a head unit or aftermarket headunit that can process sounds to each individual set of preouts (Front/Rear/Sub) is much better than those converters. I am sure the Reus system is nice, but there are still limitations when tapping into an OEM head unit.
The Reus system is superb. They change out some transducers as well as adding additional amplification for their greatly improved subwoofer. i had a 2013 Model S with the premium sound system. I made many measurements of the system and several small improvements involving altering hardware a bit. I am currently Tesla free until March 31 when my 85D will be ready for pickup. I ordered th e premium sound package again and plan to make a few improvements to it immediately. It is my understanding that the new system is essentially the same as the original other than some EQ adjustments. No hardware or electronics improvements. I am not positive about this, but it certainly sounds like that to me based on what I have auditioned.
As mentioned, the system is very front heavy. The processing used to derive the rear channels is subpar by any reasonable standard. You will not be able to do anything to fix it with the existing controls and head unit. I would just get used to the front perspective. The good news is that the front setup is (or at least was) very good. The electronics are good and so are the transducers. The system has a Hi-Fi sound that is very unusual in a stock car system. It is very clear, relatively low distortion and very dynamic for a car system. It does not play extremely loud, but it is more than sufficient for great car sound.
One big problem is that in the show rooms, the systems are always jacked up. The best control settings for relative neutral tone balance is LF @ +1, MF @ -1, and HF @ 0 to -1. I am not sure about the new system, but that is a fact for the previous one. My quick listening in a P85D indicates t hat things are about the same. Now, the problem with This setup is that the bass control affects the front door woofers and the rear subwoofer. To get sufficient low bass, the control has to be advanced to the point where the lower voice range is too bassy and thick. An excellent solution for this problem is to add a separate subwoofer amplifier. You can use the speaker lines from the existing sub into an amp that accepts speaker leads in (most of them do). You need to get 12v power from somewhere. I plan to use the 12 volt plug on the center console. It only has a 10 A capacity but I have found that is sufficient to run a small auxiliary amp to more than sufficient levels. I don't do Rap or t he equivalent.
Now what you do is turn the sub off and adjust the bass control for most natural voice balance, without regard to extreme bass level. Once the 3 level controls are adjusted for most natural balance, you just turn up the sub using the new amplifier gain control until you get the amount of thump you like. The difference in the overall sound of the car will be huge! I used an amp with a remote level control which I mounted on the front inside edge off my seat. I can now adjust the extreme bass as I require as it changes dramatically from cut to cut. I put the little amp on the floor of the rear hidden compartment just in front of the woofer. It is out of the way and safe from harm.
The Reus system does something similar but they run fresh power from the front battery and get a clean stereo front feed from the head unit. They also change out the sub to much better one than stock. They additionally upgrade some other transducers with vastly better sounding units than stock. If you have the bucks, their system is awesome and their workmanship is top notch. If you are handy and have a few hundred dollars, what I have described will significantly improve your system. The stock woofer is adequate when separately powered.
As mentioned, the system is very front heavy. The processing used to derive the rear channels is subpar by any reasonable standard. You will not be able to do anything to fix it with the existing controls and head unit. I would just get used to the front perspective. The good news is that the front setup is (or at least was) very good. The electronics are good and so are the transducers. The system has a Hi-Fi sound that is very unusual in a stock car system. It is very clear, relatively low distortion and very dynamic for a car system. It does not play extremely loud, but it is more than sufficient for great car sound.
One big problem is that in the show rooms, the systems are always jacked up. The best control settings for relative neutral tone balance is LF @ +1, MF @ -1, and HF @ 0 to -1. I am not sure about the new system, but that is a fact for the previous one. My quick listening in a P85D indicates t hat things are about the same. Now, the problem with This setup is that the bass control affects the front door woofers and the rear subwoofer. To get sufficient low bass, the control has to be advanced to the point where the lower voice range is too bassy and thick. An excellent solution for this problem is to add a separate subwoofer amplifier. You can use the speaker lines from the existing sub into an amp that accepts speaker leads in (most of them do). You need to get 12v power from somewhere. I plan to use the 12 volt plug on the center console. It only has a 10 A capacity but I have found that is sufficient to run a small auxiliary amp to more than sufficient levels. I don't do Rap or t he equivalent.
Now what you do is turn the sub off and adjust the bass control for most natural voice balance, without regard to extreme bass level. Once the 3 level controls are adjusted for most natural balance, you just turn up the sub using the new amplifier gain control until you get the amount of thump you like. The difference in the overall sound of the car will be huge! I used an amp with a remote level control which I mounted on the front inside edge off my seat. I can now adjust the extreme bass as I require as it changes dramatically from cut to cut. I put the little amp on the floor of the rear hidden compartment just in front of the woofer. It is out of the way and safe from harm.
The Reus system does something similar but they run fresh power from the front battery and get a clean stereo front feed from the head unit. They also change out the sub to much better one than stock. They additionally upgrade some other transducers with vastly better sounding units than stock. If you have the bucks, their system is awesome and their workmanship is top notch. If you are handy and have a few hundred dollars, what I have described will significantly improve your system. The stock woofer is adequate when separately powered.
EarlyAdopter
Active Member
Sorry, I was refuting two different points and should have separated my reply into two paragraphs.
1. Model S does have line level outputs.
2. It will not be difficult to fine tune the sound with the OEM hardware, as Reus has done just that.
Can I just check, does the standard stereo not still come with the free TuneIn radio app + R.dio subscription? If so, all DAB channels would be available on TuneIn over the free 3g. I'm still trying to decide on Premium vs non-premium before placing my order (Standard S85).
thegruf
Active Member
so long as you have good 3G signal .. which I dont always have, hence my frustration the DAB tuner is only part of the UHFS option.
In the UK at least a 70K GBP car without DAB is really a bit lame, especially as the hardware is <$50 and FM is planned to be switched off in future.
I have no problem with 2100 GBP option for the audio providing it is worth it, and the jury seems out on that at least for some.
Yeah, I feel the same. I had a demo of the premium system in the Knutsford showroom, and, even though the file was FLAC, there seemed to be a load of audio compression going on that I don't remember from the original track (Michael Jackson had pretty good production). I asked whether there was an option to turn the compression off, and he turned off Dolby. Overall I wasn't blown away by the sound, but I think with a bit of tuning, you could get it sorted. I'm still torn on whether to get a D or not, though!
thegruf
Active Member
+1
(maybe the "new codec" in 6.2 s/w will fix it)
As for the P85D ... +1 to that too
- check the thread running about the 691hp availability, some really interesting stuff there, and I wait to see what Elon's tweet about greater power from a tweak to the inverter software is all about.
No doubt I'll give in at some point and just get a fully loaded P85D though. There's something irresistibly cool about hurling a 2 ton battery down the road with insane acceleration.
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