P3 Brake Job

beastmode13 · Jul 14, 2019

@isaax

Pad is FMSI D1149. CHRYSLER: 06-13 300C SRT-8 // DODGE: 08-16 Challenger SRT-8, 06-12 Charger SRT-8, 06-08 Magnum SRT-8

EVTuning · Jul 14, 2019

beastmode13 said:
@isaax

Pad is FMSI D1149. CHRYSLER: 06-13 300C SRT-8 // DODGE: 08-16 Challenger SRT-8, 06-12 Charger SRT-8, 06-08 Magnum SRT-8

Beat me to it!

Lunares · Jul 15, 2019

So installed the new pads(XT910)+lines+motul600. So far it does feel more linear, but there is one odd thing. The bite is great, but seems to take 10-20% brake pedal before the bite starts. Is that normal or did my shop not position the pads close enough to the brake? Just feels barely there to start and seems different.

Unfortunately will be a while before I can test on a track

mcbarnet007 · Jul 15, 2019

Lunares said:
So installed the new pads(XT910)+lines+motul600. So far it does feel more linear, but there is one odd thing. The bite is great, but seems to take 10-20% brake pedal before the bite starts. Is that normal or did my shop not position the pads close enough to the brake? Just feels barely there to start and seems different.

Unfortunately will be a while before I can test on a track

Find a safe area and engage ABS to clear out any air bubble.

beastmode13 · Jul 15, 2019

Definitely sounds like you have air in the system, need to bleed the system to flush out the air. Also make sure you perform a complete bedding process, follow the steps that came with RB pads.

Lunares · Jul 15, 2019

beastmode13 said:
Definitely sounds like you have air in the system, need to bleed the system to flush out the air. Also make sure you perform a complete bedding process, follow the steps that came with RB pads.

They were supposed to bleed flush and replace. Should I have them look at it again?

I did several 0 to 60 to 10 stops. Any more needs to be done to bed?

beastmode13 · Jul 15, 2019

Lunares said:
They were supposed to bleed flush and replace. Should I have them look at it again?

I did several 0 to 60 to 10 stops. Any more needs to be done to bed?

XT910 Bedding Process:

Make 6 to 8 brakings from approx. 30-35 mph. Do not go below 25 mph.
Make an additional 3 to 4 hard brakings from approx. 50-55 mph. Do not go below 40 mph.
Allow 10-15 minutes for the brakes to cool off. Do not apply the parking brake during this cool down period.

You have air in your system. A proper bled Model 3 system would engage the brake with ~5mm of pedal travel. Since you changed lines, you need to use 1L of new brake fluid to thoroughly flush out the air that is trapped in the hard steel line as part of the SS line change process.

Lunares · Jul 15, 2019

beastmode13 said:
XT910 Bedding Process:

Make 6 to 8 brakings from approx. 30-35 mph. Do not go below 25 mph.

Make an additional 3 to 4 hard brakings from approx. 50-55 mph. Do not go below 40 mph.

Allow 10-15 minutes for the brakes to cool off. Do not apply the parking brake during this cool down period.

You have air in your system. A proper bled Model 3 system would engage the brake with ~5mm of pedal travel. Since you changed lines, you need to use 1L of new brake fluid to thoroughly flush out the air that is trapped in the hard steel line as part of the SS line change process.

Supposedly they did the flush + new fluid as part of the change but I agree it's a hell of a lot more than 5mm pedal travel

Guess I should just call them back? Not sure how that's something they can mess up

beastmode13 · Jul 15, 2019

Lunares said:
Supposedly they did the flush + new fluid as part of the change but I agree it's a hell of a lot more than 5mm pedal travel

Guess I should just call them back? Not sure how that's something they can mess up

Well. If they aren’t familiar with a particular car they would not know how much pedal travel is normal. One advice, if you plan to track your car, you are better off learn how to bleed the brake system yourself. You will need to bleed them pretty much after every track day with stock rotors.

Lunares · Jul 15, 2019

beastmode13 said:
Well. If they aren’t familiar with a particular car they would not know how much pedal travel is normal. One advice, if you plan to track your car, you are better off learn how to bleed the brake system yourself. You will need to bleed them pretty much after every track day with stock rotors.

Why would rotors matter for that? Boiling off fluid? I'm sure the 2 piece RB's are better but I haven't heard of P3D rotors having to do that on track.

Stock AWD is another matter of course

destructure00 · Jul 15, 2019

beastmode13 said:
Well. If they aren’t familiar with a particular car they would not know how much pedal travel is normal. One advice, if you plan to track your car, you are better off learn how to bleed the brake system yourself. You will need to bleed them pretty much after every track day with stock rotors.

Why is that? Does the heat cause air to boil out?

kbecks13 · Jul 15, 2019

My $.02 is that i only bleed if my fluid boils or pedal gets soft during the previous track day, otherwise leave it alone. That said, with stock rotors you will almost certainly boil your fluid on track - so you'd probably want to do it fairly often.

I just gave back the prototype carbon ceramics (testing pads) i had been using for the last few track days, so now i guess it's time to bleed the brakes again

Man those carbon brakes were nice...no dust, no noise, no fade.

Lunares · Jul 15, 2019

kbecks13 said:
My $.02 is that i only bleed if my fluid boils or pedal gets soft during the previous track day, otherwise leave it alone. That said, with stock rotors you will almost certainly boil your fluid on track - so you'd probably want to do it fairly often.

I just gave back the prototype carbon ceramics (testing pads) i had been using for the last few track days, so now i guess it's time to bleed the brakes again

Man those carbon brakes were nice...no dust, no noise, no fade.

stock p3d or stock AWD?

if the P3D rotors boil I'm surprised any rotor wouldnt. Of course RB is better but do their same size ventilated rotors really help that much?

I'm just autocrossing so hopefully my brakes aren't that hot!

Either way I'm hearing take it back and complain.

destructure00 · Jul 15, 2019

Speaking of heat....are the RB rotors enough for cooling, or should one pull the dust shields and tape the ABS wire up as well?

kbecks13 · Jul 15, 2019

Lunares said:
stock p3d or stock AWD?

if the P3D rotors boil I'm surprised any rotor wouldnt. Of course RB is better but do their same size ventilated rotors really help that much?

I'm just autocrossing so hopefully my brakes aren't that hot!

Either way I'm hearing take it back and complain.

Stock P3D, the car is pretty heavy and uses the brakes quite a bit for track mode. Not sure on how much better RB would do, but probably not a silver bullet like carbon would be. I'd definitely upgrade fluid and pads before going for rotors (that's what i'm doing now, still thinking about new rotor options).

beastmode13 · Jul 16, 2019

destructure00 said:
Speaking of heat....are the RB rotors enough for cooling, or should one pull the dust shields and tape the ABS wire up as well?

No single rotor (no counting carbon variety) will be sufficient to manage the heat from track use. RB's center-mounted and directional design allows for more efficient pumping of air through the rotor.

Removing of dust shields and tape the ABS wire with heat-insulating silver tape is part of my standard practice for preparing my cars for the track. Only down of dust shield removal is brake dust on suspension components, but it could be easily hosed off. I believe another forum member mentioned in this temperature measurements, without dust shield he saw 15~20% reduction. The next step would be adding air scoops to direct air to the inner center of the rotor to aid the pumping of air from the center of the vented rotor to the outer edge of the rotor.

See post #22, #41 on insulation tape.

beastmode13 · Jul 16, 2019

kbecks13 said:
My $.02

Your $.02 is worth a nickle in my book.

beastmode13 · Jul 27, 2019

RB P3 rear rotor installed. The installation is straight forward and well documented in this thread so I’ll not get into the details. The RB rotor is 21mm thick while the stock rotor is 20mm. 21mm is the maximum thickness the stock caliper can accommodate. The RB rotor weights 5.688kg, 12.5lb. The stock rotor is at 6.414kg, 14.1lb. Another benefit of RB rotor is better cooling from directional veins and center mount design, which draws fresh air equally from both sides of the rotor.

The rear rotor only has slot design, in contrast to the open slot design of the front. Between the two plates of the rotor is an 11mm air gap with directional veins. With the plates at 5mm, RB decided to be conservative without the open holes in the slots to maintain maximum performance strength to support the 4000lb car. For my brakes, I will take functionality over looks any day of the week.

Question, Why is there rust? Answer, When you are in a rush to put the wheel back on before it is completely dry after you washed the wheel.

Red, Blue and Yellow

beastmode13 · Jul 27, 2019

Stock P3

RB P3 rotor

Stock P3 rotor

RB P3 rotor

Lunares · Jul 27, 2019

beastmode13 said:
View attachment 434912 Stock P3

View attachment 434915 RB P3 rotor

View attachment 434913 Stock P3 rotor

View attachment 434914 RB P3 rotor

Awesome!

With the rotors slightly wider, does that change the offset of the wheel at all?

P3 Brake Job

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