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P3 Brake Job

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Performance 3 Rear Brake Pad Installation - Racing Brake XT910

Torque reference:
Two caliper bolts - 77lbft
All others hand tight - surfaces touch plus 1/4~1/2 turn

You can turn the car in tow mode to disable the parking brake, then disconnect the power to parking brake motor. Need to pull up the light grey safety clip before you can pinch the release on the power plug.
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Tow mode reengaged my parking brake as soon as I get out of my car and close the door. I think because my car is on a sloping driveway. Anyway, even without tow mode, there is a way to release the parking brake, and this is what I'll be doing here. Remove the parking brake wiring bracket and the parking motor. Tesla uses Loctite on the two star bolts for the parking motor, so when removing it, there will be an unnatural amount of resistant for such small bolts. Once the bolts are removed, the motor will still be attached to the caliper due to the friction o-ring seal, so you would need to pull on it to get it off.

Do this part before you remove the caliper from the car. Use a star wrench, turn the now exposed bolt at the back of the caliper clock-wise to retract the piston. You can retract it all the way if you wish. For my car with 10,000 miles, one or two full turns is plenty to retract the piston for a new pad. With the caliper still on the car, even if you turn the wrong way, the worst you could do is press the pad against the rotor.
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Now remove the caliper by removing the two bolts.
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Another forum member has quantified that the rotors are 15~20% cooler without dust shield. My own experience with previous cars concurs with his observations. Off comes the dust shield. The only thing that is not high heat resistant behind the dust shield is the ABS sensor cable. A bit of heat reflecting tape would be sufficient protection for the radiating heat from the rotor.
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So this is one of the quirks of the P3. Can you spot it in this photo?
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The inner and outer pad aren't not even aligned. The actual brake force is less than if the pads were aligned. Why can Tesla use the standard 3 rear brakes, instead of this poser of extra mass of weight and lump that makes fitting wheels difficult?

Sorry for the rant over, back to the installation. The outer pads are held in place by two tension springs on the ears of the pad. Removal of the pad is simple by using a flat head screwdriver to pry it off gently.
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Clean this black surface thoroughly for the RB pad application.
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The RB XT910 P3 Rear pads with 3M HT tape, this tape is used to affix brake shimes on pads. The only purpose of the tape/spring(stock) is to retract the pad from rotor. The two ears of the pad are holding the pad in place against the rotational braking force.
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The upper arm is a good perch for the caliper while you are busy with something else.

Place the new RB pads into the caliper. I only use my fingers to press the outer pad against the caliper for 5~10 seconds. Once everything is put back together, engage the parking brake will apply all the pressure it needs for a secure bond.
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Done. Get something cold to drink before you tackle the other side.
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Racing Brake performances amazingly at Laguna Seca. It was my first time back at the track after a 5 yr hiatus. RB gave me the confident to go way deeper into each braking zone. In fact there was so much braking power that I scrubbed too much speed off most of the turns. On turn 2, 5 and 11 base on my visual estimate I can brake one cone later than the car in front of me, it’s pretty freaking amazing. The P3 is also an amazing car, it can carry tremendous amount of speed into and out of corners that I can not approach currently with my skills. The only downer is my AC broke on my way drive to LS. No super cooling for Track Mode. At end of day my peddle is slightly mushy, not sure if it’s the front or the rear, or both. My over braking probably contributed to the mushiness.

Here is my current track brake setup. Front: RB 380mm 4 pot BBK with XT970 pads. Rear: Stock P3 with XT910 pad. In a few weeks, will upgrade rear rotor to RB 2-piece rotor.
 
Apologize in advance for the crappy silent video from Tesla front cam. However, it still shows 1. How no AC track mode affects acceleration on straights. 2. How I was reeling the P3 in front of me in braking. I think it's more of the driver than the brakes. The P3 in front has UP Carbon BBK, famous YouTuber.

We both have P3 at about the same state of charge.

Damn, the video looks like slow motion. So slow. LOL

 
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Racing Brake performances amazingly at Laguna Seca. It was my first time back at the track after a 5 yr hiatus. RB gave me the confident to go way deeper into each braking zone. In fact there was so much braking power that I scrubbed too much speed off most of the turns. On turn 2, 5 and 11 base on my visual estimate I can brake one cone later than the car in front of me, it’s pretty freaking amazing. The P3 is also an amazing car, it can carry tremendous amount of speed into and out of corners that I can not approach currently with my skills. The only downer is my AC broke on my way drive to LS. No super cooling for Track Mode. At end of day my peddle is slightly mushy, not sure if it’s the front or the rear, or both. My over braking probably contributed to the mushiness.

Here is my current track brake setup. Front: RB 380mm 4 pot BBK with XT970 pads. Rear: Stock P3 with XT910 pad. In a few weeks, will upgrade rear rotor to RB 2-piece rotor.

Sucks that your AC broke!

What fluid are you running?
 
Thanks for the P3 brake job write up. Well documented.

Question: did you bleed the brakes or do anything about preventing dirty fluid from being pushed back up into the ABS unit?

I ask because BMW, Makers of the MINI Cooper, recommend clamping the rubber line closed, then opening the bleeder when retracing the pistons. This is to prevent any dirt or rust particles from traveling back into the ABS controller which is apparently sensitive to the tiniest amount of rust. Since we do not have access to a Tesla shop manual with a proper procedure, I was wondering if anyone had first-hand knowledge to know if this procedure would be necessary. At the very least, it may be prudent.
 
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Anyone have an opinion on steel brake lines? I see some from evtuning, mpp and UP at different prices. Any real difference between the 3?

I'm aware that stainless steel brake lines are a very minor upgrade but figured might as well
 
Anyone have an opinion on steel brake lines? I see some from evtuning, mpp and UP at different prices. Any real difference between the 3?

I'm aware that stainless steel brake lines are a very minor upgrade but figured might as well
SS makes a huge different in pedal feel. All three brands get their SS lines from reputable manufactures. There is no performance differences between the three.
 
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Anyone have an opinion on steel brake lines? I see some from evtuning, mpp and UP at different prices. Any real difference between the 3?

I'm aware that stainless steel brake lines are a very minor upgrade but figured might as well
It’s all a third party making them up from individual pieces. Ours come from a reputable company that makes a lot of lines for HPDE cars all the way up to race cars. Sometimes you’re just paying for the name. If you want a different color other than red I can have that changed as well.
 
Hey guys,
I want to help RB with selling more of these 380mm kits. Anyone that purchases it through EVTuning.com will get a free motive bleeder and master cylinder adapter with 2 catch bottles and 2 bottles of the brake fluid of their choice. Either Motul RB600, RB660, ATE200, GOLD or Stoptech STR 600 or STR 660. Simply reply back to your confirmation email with which brake fluid you would like and we will take care of adding the free stuff to your order.

Also the Rear Two Piece Stock Direct Replacement Performance Model 3 brake rotors should be shipping in the next 7-10 days! If you've been on the fence waiting for those to be available I will give you 25% off a set of stainless brake lines with purchase of a Rear Set of Performance Brake Rotors (Discount code SS25) or 30% off a set of lines with purchase of a front and rear set of rotors (Base brake rotors, Performance Rotors) (Discount code SS30).

If there is some other sort of package setup you'd like to see at a better than retail price I am open to suggestions and would like to help more people get into RB products and out having fun on the track!