My "No Spare Tire" Kit

[Vines]

For those looking for a nice compressor that will not trip the 15A limit of the cigarette lighter see this model below. It also comes with a nice metal case.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077KYGWSJ/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I bought a nice roadside plug kit as well as some single use rubber cement, because an open bottle always seems to go bad when you need it most. I already swapped out my P4S 20" tires for some cheap all seasons, so no foam to worry about with my plug kit.

 

[RIP->OPEC]

Yes, that's basically what I wrote.
This doesn't make any sense. Air pressure acts equally in all directions and will thus not press the rubber against the inner surface. At best it will squeeze some of the material into the hole until it is closed if the tire still has air when you do the repair (due to the pressure differential), but it will not deform the surplus material inside the tire. The "mushroom" shape shown in your picture is caused when you pull out the tool, and it would do the exact same thing if there was foam (which will be pushed aside if it hasn't already been ripped away by the reamer).
Just to get this straight: people are actually bringing their cars to a tire shop to have the inner foam removed from all their tires just because of some vague theories about the foam's impact on roadside repairability?

Also, would you mind stating who "we" is? Do you have a commercial interest in this?

I would recommend reading this thread from the beginning. Ok, fine, believe what you wish on how rope plugs work, makes no difference to me. My interests are self evident, we own two Model 3’s as do many of my neighbors, friends and family. So why do I sense your tone to be somewhat hostile? Why? Although I firmly stand by my comments, you do realize we are basically saying the same thing, with a disagreement about the effects of centrifugal force on the plug?

Yes I am a 65 year old master mechanic and classic car restorer and yes we have a shop... and no I have no financial interests here ... in fact I helped design the Reverse Logic lift point adaptor for the Tesla Model 3 ... for free! If I had a financial interest, why would I do that? Besides, even if I did, what difference would that make?

My only interest here is to help and inform based on the collective knowledge of my team. You’re free to take it or leave it. Its just that simple, its an open forum discussion. Okay? You asked questions and I kindly responded. So please... Chill out. Thank you.

 

[siminoff]

...what brand/model is that lower trunk organizer?

It's an Evannex Model 3 Trunk Organizer.

 

[RIP->OPEC]

Spoke a few weeks ago with a Continental-Tire senior company engineer by the name of Chris. He said the effectiveness of aftermarket sealant kits when used with their Run-Silent tires wasn't known but if used would immediately void their new tire warranty. He was surprised to learn that new Tesla-3 owners weren't told this fact at the time of delivery and that their New Tire Warranty Pamphlets were not easily accessible in the glove box. I then asked him why would Tesla be selling and supplying TEK-® brand sealant kits in States that require some type of roadside Emergency provision in order to meet that State's safety regulations if its in conflict with their tire supplier's warranty?

He couldn't answer the questions but agreed something was amiss!

Besides being a very nice guy, I felt he was sticking to the script being very careful not to make a mistake. He said no sealant kit other than their own (which BTW are no longer sold in the USA, but their Silent-Run Tires are!) are recommended, that all sealant kits including their own, would destroy the tire's sound absorbing pad thus rendering the tire completely worthless and unbalanceable, and that removing the sound pad would be practically impossible if their super-sticky solvent-based sealant kit was used and that the warranty would be void if another brand was used, such as the Tesla equipped TEK-® sealant kit product. This is illogical then, you can save the New Tire Warranty by using the Conti Sealant kits, but still destroy the tire! Makes no cents! $$$

I then asked since he had no data on the efficacy of aftermarket sealants on their Run-Silent tires, would he have Official Continental-Tire® documentation claiming that their kit indeed was tested and reliable? He said "yes" and would have a customer agent e-mail the document to me. Chris said the Conti Seal Kit would actually penetrate through the thick Sound-Pad to get to the puncture. He claimed that unlike the GreenSlime and TEK-® Brand (Tesla supplied) sealant kits, the ContiSeal kits would work but only if the nail etc that's causing the air loss is LEFT IN and not removed.

The documentation was NEVER received. So I emailed him and asked why? I asked if he could at least provide something official, anything to reassure we Tesla 3 owners that he was telling the truth, maybe a internal service report, a Technical Service Bulletin, even scribble on a company letterhead... something!

NOTHING EVER CAME! So I call BS!

This is a mess I'm sad to report. According to State regulators, both Tesla and Continental-Tire lied on their applications assuring there were no conflicts and that owner safety regulations were met. If not, they are both in violation of Multi-State safety codes and are being investigated as we speak.

 

[RIP->OPEC]

For what its worth, here's our Emergency Roadside Kit. It’s not perfect, but it all fits snugly and securely with straps. We fashioned a perfectly fitted cover (not shown) out of lightweight black FoamCore with pull handle that fits on top of the frunk opening. This protects the under-hood if something were to come loose in the Frunk. BTW, I was recently told by Conti-Tire Engineers that the use of the Tesla Goo Sealant Kit will not only destroy the run-silent tire, rendering it unbalanceable, it voids the new tire warranty and will most likely not even work. Therefore we removed the Goo-Cartridge from the Tesla Kit (to prevent anyone from ever using it) and will only use the Pump to refill the tire after we insert a temporary rope-plug. Now these rope plugs will NOT WORK if your tires still have the run-silent foam pads inside them. We removed these pads and remounted/balanced the tires. PLAESE KEEP THAT IN MIND. We did extensive testing with the Audi A6 crank floor-jack. It worked but barely. It felt way too stressed so we decided to abandoned the idea and installed a compact aluminum floor unit. (Please see pixs)

 

[Mikeat00]

What model floor jack?

 

[pscarroll]

Road trip from Pennsylvania to Colorado this past January! We were out in the middle of nowhere on I70 between Indianapolis and St. Louis, the back passenger tire had lost all pressure and we had to stop on the side of the freeway. I thought, no problem I bought a Green Slime repair kit and compressor. Hooked up the gadget, put in the slime, inflated the tire. "Hissssssssss". I looked all around the tire, a large gash on the sidewall on the inner-part of the tire. No way that was going to be repaired with Green Slime. Time to call Tesla roadside assistance! Oh wait, you got a Performance Model 3...and you bought 19" snow tires from TSportLine (fun fact, Tesla doesn't sell a snow tire kit for the performance Model 3), and we don't support people that purchase 3rd party stuff with the towing service so swapping out a tire is not possible but we'll help find you a tow. Tesla, however, can't say if any of the Tesla service centers have our winter tire in question in stock as they can't look that up (they do sell the Pirelli Sottozero III tire in other winter tire kits), and all the service centers in the surrounding area are closed on the weekends. Temperature dropping outside, snowstorm in full force. I turn on the new campfire screen Easter egg, the spousal unit is not amused. Called AAA, can't find anyone that is willing to tow a Tesla. Sorry. "So you're telling me you're stranding us out here?". "Yes, but we'll keep trying, get to a safe place" says AAA. "We're in the middle of nowhere on I70", silence from AAA. We walk a couple miles to a 24hr gas station a couple miles away, eat some pizza. Tesla calls back, several times throughout the whole ordeal, works to get us a tow 140 miles away. AAA calls back a few minutes, they can finally get someone to tow and they'll pay for the entire thing. Tow truck driver is great, except has to stop to smoke every 50 miles, and tells us that he knew about the call right when we called AAA but they were looking for a better price. Arrived in St Louis, parked the car at the Tesla Service center. Called every tire shop nearby, nobody carries winter tires in St. Louis. Order replacement 19" Pirelli Sottozero III tire from Tire Rack, it'll be a few days and we don't want to spend two more days in St. Louis, enjoy our Sunday there. On Monday I goto the Tesla Service center, they can't help because I put on third party tires as they aren't allowed to touch them (remember you can't get winter tire package for this particular model from Tesla), but they were awesome, even replaced the cracked tow hook cover (note: it cracks easily in sub-zero weather) and used their supercharger to charge up my car, though funny enough it's run off a diesel generator in the parking lot, ugh. Drive to a local tire shop after putting a little bit of air in, about 0.5 miles, they put on a compatible all season tire and we are back on the road. A few days later in Denver Colorado the tire arrives and a local shop mounts it onto the old rim, places the "old" all season tire in the back seat and now I (for the foreseeable future during this winter season) carry a 19" all season unmounted tire in my back seat because, well, I don't want to get stranded again.

 

[Daniel in SD]

Road trip from Pennsylvania to Colorado this past January! We were out in the middle of nowhere on I70 between Indianapolis and St. Louis, the back passenger tire had lost all pressure and we had to stop on the side of the freeway. I thought, no problem I bought a Green Slime repair kit and compressor. Hooked up the gadget, put in the slime, inflated the tire. "Hissssssssss". I looked all around the tire, a large gash on the sidewall on the inner-part of the tire. No way that was going to be repaired with Green Slime. Time to call Tesla roadside assistance! Oh wait, you got a Performance Model 3...and you bought 19" snow tires from TSportLine (fun fact, Tesla doesn't sell a snow tire kit for the performance Model 3), and we don't support people that purchase 3rd party stuff with the towing service so swapping out a tire is not possible but we'll help find you a tow. Tesla, however, can't say if any of the Tesla service centers have our winter tire in question in stock as they can't look that up (they do sell the Pirelli Sottozero III tire in other winter tire kits), and all the service centers in the surrounding area are closed on the weekends. Temperature dropping outside, snowstorm in full force. I turn on the new campfire screen Easter egg, the spousal unit is not amused. Called AAA, can't find anyone that is willing to tow a Tesla. Sorry. "So you're telling me you're stranding us out here?". "Yes, but we'll keep trying, get to a safe place" says AAA. "We're in the middle of nowhere on I70", silence from AAA. We walk a couple miles to a 24hr gas station a couple miles away, eat some pizza. Tesla calls back, several times throughout the whole ordeal, works to get us a tow 140 miles away. AAA calls back a few minutes, they can finally get someone to tow and they'll pay for the entire thing. Tow truck driver is great, except has to stop to smoke every 50 miles, and tells us that he knew about the call right when we called AAA but they were looking for a better price. Arrived in St Louis, parked the car at the Tesla Service center. Called every tire shop nearby, nobody carries winter tires in St. Louis. Order replacement 19" Pirelli Sottozero III tire from Tire Rack, it'll be a few days and we don't want to spend two more days in St. Louis, enjoy our Sunday there. On Monday I goto the Tesla Service center, they can't help because I put on third party tires as they aren't allowed to touch them (remember you can't get winter tire package for this particular model from Tesla), but they were awesome, even replaced the cracked tow hook cover (note: it cracks easily in sub-zero weather) and used their supercharger to charge up my car, though funny enough it's run off a diesel generator in the parking lot, ugh. Drive to a local tire shop after putting a little bit of air in, about 0.5 miles, they put on a compatible all season tire and we are back on the road. A few days later in Denver Colorado the tire arrives and a local shop mounts it onto the old rim, places the "old" all season tire in the back seat and now I (for the foreseeable future during this winter season) carry a 19" all season unmounted tire in my back seat because, well, I don't want to get stranded again.

Sounds way better than having to install a spare tire!
Tesla does sell a winter wheel set for the Performance but inexplicably it's only available with 20" rims.
I just wish there was a good place to put a spare tire in the trunk (or better yet, the frunk). I've got an 18" Hyundai Genesis spare and it fits though I'm not sure if it would fit over the performance brakes.

EDIT: Apparently I am incorrect about the 20" winter wheels. They sell them but they don't fit the Performance brakes! Who the hell would buy them I don't know...
Model 3 20" Sport Wheel and Winter Tire Package

 

[pscarroll]

Sounds way better than having to install a spare tire!
Tesla does sell a winter wheel set for the Performance but inexplicably it's only available with 20" rims.
I just wish there was a good place to put a spare tire in the trunk (or better yet, the frunk). I've got an 18" Hyundai Genesis spare and it fits though I'm not sure if it would fit over the performance brakes.

Don't spread misinformation. They DO NOT sell a winter tire package compatible with the performance Model 3 with the performance upgrade...

Note: This package is only compatible with the Dual Motor All-Wheel Drive Model 3 configured with 20” Performance Wheel.

The AWD Tesla Model 3 is not magically a Tesla Model 3 Performance when you slap on the 20" tires. I've been round and round with Tesla service about this, there is absolutely no winter tire package of any size that Tesla sells or supports for the Tesla Model 3 Performance with Performance Upgrade. TSportline sells one, I think a couple others do as well. Tesla Inc. does not.

 

[mswlogo]

For what its worth, here's our Emergency Roadside Kit. It’s not perfect, but it all fits snugly and securely with straps. We fashioned a perfectly fitted cover (not shown) out of lightweight black FoamCore with pull handle that fits on top of the frunk opening. This protects the under-hood if something were to come loose in the Frunk. BTW, I was recently told by Conti-Tire Engineers that the use of the Tesla Goo Sealant Kit will not only destroy the run-silent tire, rendering it unbalanceable, it voids the new tire warranty and will most likely not even work. Therefore we removed the Goo-Cartridge from the Tesla Kit (to prevent anyone from ever using it) and will only use the Pump to refill the tire after we insert a temporary rope-plug. Now these rope plugs will NOT WORK if your tires still have the run-silent foam pads inside them. We removed these pads and remounted/balanced the tires. PLAESE KEEP THAT IN MIND. We did extensive testing with the Audi A6 crank floor-jack. It worked but barely. It felt way too stressed so we decided to abandoned the idea and installed a compact aluminum floor unit. (Please see pixs)

Nice setup. I DO appreciate your sharing your preparation. I think you are smart to have a jack with you, for ease and efficiency of a possible on the road repair.

But I disagree that a rope plug will not work with the run-silent foam. A rope plug doesn't care what's on the other side. A plug does. It might make it a little trickier (the twist and pull bit), but I really find it hard to believe they flat out won't work. Now some people don't trust any rope plug on any tire, but that's fine. If you have references (links) that it will not work, I would not mind reading them. With all due respect I'm not gonna just take someone's word for it, or what their tire guy might of said to them. No disrespect, you can do what you feel is right and safest for you.

Also if you did remove the run-silent pad, why couldn't you go back to the goo sealant being part of your arsenal? Other than voiding warranties etc. which might already be invalid with foam ripped out. And I'm not sure the OEM wheels have any warranty at all.

I worry about the possibly of being caught in a bad situation. And I might not care about voiding a warranty and more concerned with safety or more serious consequences for the car itself. So even in a situation that I might be able to plug it, I might elect to use Goo on my snow tires, if I'm in a bad situation and that it might kept me out of a bad or unsafe situation quicker.

That all said, I seriously considered an aluminum jack like that, in fact I have one identical. Besides the extra weight, I was concerned about it leaking.

So instead went with a Porsche Aluminum Scissor Jack. It's plenty stable, won't leak, weighs nothing and very versatile.

The perfect Model 3 emergency jack?

I'm keeping a separate can of fix a flat (so it would not accidentally get used) and it should work on my snow tires.

EDIT:

I did a quick google on plugging foam tires. See posts #3 and #4. Not a problem.
Note the first reply #2 is how to PATCH a foam tire. The next two posts look like DIY plugging.

Help: Conti Silent Tire Repair?

 

[Daniel in SD]

Don't spread misinformation. They DO NOT sell a winter tire package compatible with the performance Model 3 with the performance upgrade...

Note: This package is only compatible with the Dual Motor All-Wheel Drive Model 3 configured with 20” Performance Wheel.

The AWD Tesla Model 3 is not magically a Tesla Model 3 Performance when you slap on the 20" tires. I've been round and round with Tesla service about this, there is absolutely no winter tire package of any size that Tesla sells or supports for the Tesla Model 3 Performance with Performance Upgrade. TSportline sells one, I think a couple others do as well. Tesla Inc. does not.

My bad. Not sure why they would sell a 20" winter wheel set that doesn't fit the Performance model! Or a 20" winter wheel at all for that matter. Also not sure why your car would have to already be configured with 20" wheels (which isn't an option for the AWD!) in order to install 20" wheels. Also why if the wheels work on the AWD will they not work on RWD?

 

[pscarroll]

My bad. Not sure why they would sell a 20" winter wheel set that doesn't fit the Performance model! Or a 20" winter wheel at all for that matter. Also not sure why your car would have to already be configured with 20" wheels (which isn't an option for the AWD!) in order to install 20" wheels. Also why if the wheels work on the AWD will they not work on RWD?

No worries, even Tesla themselves don't even know this fact or at least the people that interface with customers don't. It's something about the mounting that's different with the performance with performance upgrade, TSportline or somewhere explains it, basically the wheels aren't compatible, some kind of ring where it meets where they think Tesla kludged in a "groove" or something that's different. Even Tesla service doesn't know this, I don't think they understand their limited product line. God help them as they expand their number of models.

 

[rlb4]

What model floor jack?

I got that same jack from Harbor Freight. Like $65 with coupon.

 

[mswlogo]

Is there any official information from the tire manufacturers on this? I still don't see why that would be the case. To my knowledge centrifugal force has nothing to do with creating the seal when using a rope plug (if it did, the plug would only work when driving at a higher speed). As far as I understand it the seal is created when you pull the insertion tool out, which squeezes the inner ends of the rope back into the hole from the inside with some pressure before the tool cuts the loop on the way out. In essence you press 4 times the rope diameter into the hole from the inside. Some plugs use rubber cement for additional sealing. I don't see how the foam would interfere with any of that (it will be ripped away around the hole anyway by the reamer).

That said, a plug is of course not a permanent solution. But as a temporary fix it should work just as good (or not) whether the tire has acoustic foam or not.
Many? Really? That seems kind of extreme.

Well said. This is the first I read of folks ripping out foam. Just to allow a rope plug to work !! That's crazy.

I've used the DIY rope plugs 1/2 dozen times over many years and has worked "permanently" each time.

I try not to use the reamer if I can avoid it. I will often peel the rope thinner to keep the plugged whole as small as possible.
The "rope" is sized to handle a larger hole that has been reamed larger.
All the rope plugs have some sort of cement embedded in the rope. The smaller the hole/repair the better.

It's up to the fixer / driver how long a solution it is. I don't like using the reamer because I want to minimize damaging the cords.
Every tire I fixed, it's been a pretty small hole, like a finish nail or sheet rock screw.
I don't like shoving a 1/4" file into the hole. BTW, that's what shops will do !!!
And why I DON'T like getting my tires Plug/Patched. More invasive to the tire.
In each case the nail / screw was almost plugging the hole and was a slow leak.
Sometimes getting the tool into a tiny finish nail hole is not easy. I've found it worth the trouble and keep the whole (damage) as small as possible.

Sometimes I prefer the cheopo $5.00 rope plug kit because the tool is much thinner than the "Delux" kits.

 

[RIP->OPEC]

Nice setup. I DO appreciate your sharing your preparation. I think you are smart to have a jack with you, for ease and efficiency of a possible on the road repair.

But I disagree that a rope plug will not work with the run-silent foam. A rope plug doesn't care what's on the other side. A plug does. It might make it a little trickier (the twist and pull bit), but I really find it hard to believe they flat out won't work. Now some people don't trust any rope plug on any tire, but that's fine. If you have references (links) that it will not work, I would not mind reading them. With all due respect I'm not gonna just take someone's word for it, or what their tire guy might of said to them. No disrespect, you can do what you feel is right and safest for you.

Also if you did remove the run-silent pad, why couldn't you go back to the goo sealant being part of your arsenal? Other than voiding warranties etc. which might already be invalid with foam ripped out. And I'm not sure the OEM wheels have any warranty at all.

I worry about the possibly of being caught in a bad situation. And I might not care about voiding a warranty and more concerned with safety or more serious consequences for the car itself. So even in a situation that I might be able to plug it, I might elect to use Goo on my snow tires, if I'm in a bad situation and that it might kept me out of a bad or unsafe situation quicker.

That all said, I seriously considered an aluminum jack like that, in fact I have one identical. Besides the extra weight, I was concerned about it leaking.

So instead went with a Porsche Aluminum Scissor Jack. It's plenty stable, won't leak, weighs nothing and very versatile.

The perfect Model 3 emergency jack?

I'm keeping a separate can of fix a flat (so it would not accidentally get used) and it should work on my snow tires.

EDIT:

I did a quick google on plugging foam tires. See posts #3 and #4. Not a problem.
Note the first reply #2 is how to PATCH a foam tire. The next two posts look like DIY plugging.

Help: Conti Silent Tire Repair?

I agree on the jacks. We considered it, but again we opted out and felt that this HF toy was better suited for may different surfaces and terrains. Now regarding rope-plugs, with all due respect, I disagree. In my shop we see dozens of Tesla friends with failed Rope Plug fixes. Even I fell victim to the false rumor that its okay to use a rope-plug on a run-silent tire. I thought the same until I found out the hard way that they don't work, and if they do, its for a very brief time. 3am and cursing my brains off traveling through a mountain pass in WV, rope plug after rope plug failed. Had to call Tesla roadside assistance. They came with a model S wheel and tire. 4 freaking hous later I was back on the road with the correct Model 3 loaner wheel/tire set up. (I kept my new OEM wheel/tire for the trip back home)

The very day I returned home to the shop, off came the remaining tires and the silencing pads were gone! (BTW, There's now an investigation by numerous State Attorneys as to why Tesla equipped their cars with Goo-Sealant Kits in required States that don't work, that ruins the tires, voids their warranties and thus requiring expensive replacements yet strands their customers in an effort to defraud State Regulators so they could bypass the State laws in order to sell their cars in the State that requires a Roadside Tire E-Kit, not just roadside assistance!)

Briefly, rope plugs do require the back surface of the tread inside the tire to be as free of debris and dirt as possible, and that especially includes a FOAM SILENCING SPONGE PAD. After inserting the plug, its the swift removal of the tool that creates a seal on the backside by bunching-up the plug from behind. Air pressure further crunches the plug creating an even better seal. That's how they are designed to work. (I've been using them since 1974.) But if the silencing pad sponge is in the way, it will not seal properly, and if it does work, its not for very long. That's why we removed the pads from inside our tires... now the rope-plugs can work as designed. BTW, we noticed no noticeable increase in noise so they're a gimmick...

Bottom line: Yes, rope plugs do require a clean inner surface to work as designed. Many people wrongly believe that Rope Plugs are permanent when they're not. They may last, but consider yourself in God's good graces if they do. A few links do show proper plugging after dismounting the tire, then cutting away the foam pad to expose the puncture, removing the inner adhesive, then installing a proper inner patch/plug in the usual way from the inside. But in other links you provided, there's plenty of misinformation. So anyone can stretch the rules, and anyone can be lucky person, doesn't make it right. Cutting corners and sloppy considerations are not how we operate here in my custom shop.

Good luck to you...

 

[RIP->OPEC]

Well said. This is the first I read of folks ripping out foam. Just to allow a rope plug to work !! That's crazy. I've used the DIY rope plugs 1/2 dozen times over many years and has worked "permanently" each time.

Yup, I agree, it's completely CRAZY! lol BTW, how long have you driven on Silent Run tires? What make?

 

[mswlogo]

Yup, I agree, it's completely CRAZY! lol BTW, how long have you driven on Silent Run tires? What make?

I've only had the Michelin Flavor only since I got the Model 3 in September. I've seen plenty of folks fail on rope plugs on regular tires too. Putting all the blame on the foam is your call.

I provided a link of others that had no issue, and I'm sure I can find more and I'm sure you can find more failures.

Air does not crush the plug from the back. The plug is sealed by the cement gripping the walls of the hole. Not by "plugging" the back.
There certainly could be a larger surface that forms that helps stabilize it.

There is a chance you might pull some foam back through the hole causing a bad seal, but unlikely.

I also agree the Goo thing from Tesla is very misleading.

I am curious though why you don't have the Goo (as a backup) since you did remove the foam. Again as I said sometimes you don't care about voiding warranties. Just curious. Do you think it still will not work? How clean did you get the foam off? I'd even consider taking the foam off so the goo would work. But I would not do it to make rope plugs work, because I don't think it's gonna make all that much difference. Especially if you consider it a temporary fix.

I also believe you there is little difference in the foam. But I doubt it's zero because you'd have to test every road surface precisely to really know. I don't think it's a gimmick. But it certainly doesn't do all that much for sure. Why do I say that. Because my snow tires with no foam are quieter

I respectfully disagree that plugs won't work with foam based on your failure. And I won't say the foam didn't contribute to your failure. But I won't agree (respectfully) that rope plugs will flat out fail on all foam tires by any installer. Like I said I'm very careful to keep the whole as small as possible. And the smaller it is (and its rope plug repair is), the less likely it will fail in any tire.

You can never guarantee any rope plug patch will work (temporary or long term). But I'm a good 6 for 6 (I lost count) that every one has held up long term. I've done a few friend tires too. No foam tire yet. But I have been fair warned. I'm not too concerned, but will keep a closer eye on any foam tire I might patch.

 

[mswlogo]

Here is what a typically rope plug looks like from the back.
If foam was there it would make very little difference in it's effectiveness.
BTW, if it doesn't hold (immediately), don't cut the plug free from the tool, pull it out and try again with a fresh plug.
In case you somehow got foam in there or something.
If it holds, cut it off and get to a safe place. Then decide if you want a more "professional" repair. If it's holding I'd leave it personally.
Worst that happens is tire goes flat again. It's not gonna have a major blow out if it's still a GOOD tire.
I would not leave a plug in a large hole long term. But a finish nail like hole, I don't worry about.
If I had a "blow out" on the highway it's not repairable typically with a rope plug.
Blow outs are typically from a bad tire (which I never run) or you hit something major.

 

[RIP->OPEC]

Here is what a typically rope plug looks like from the back.
If foam was there it would make very little difference in it's effectiveness.
BTW, if it doesn't hold (immediately), don't cut the plug free from the tool, pull it out and try again with a fresh plug.
In case you somehow got foam in there or something.
If it holds, cut it off and get to a safe place. Then decide if you want a more "professional" repair. If it's holding I'd leave it personally.
Worst that happens is tire goes flat again. It's not gonna have a major blow out if it's still a GOOD tire.
I would not leave a plug in a large hole long term. But a finish nail like hole, I don't worry about.
If I had a "blow out" on the highway it's not repairable typically with a rope plug.
Blow outs are typically from a bad tire (which I never run) or you hit something major.

Well that picture does not look typical. Rope plugs are 4"-5" in length. Folding them in the tool reduces their length to 2"-2.5". Typically tire tread thickness are .63" to .75". That means if the inner view looks like that, it wasn't inserted deep enough leaving most the plug outside the tire to be cut off later. There should be way more rope left inside the tire to be installed properly. I'll bet that was a test rope-plug insertion demonstration on a dismounted tire that was never inflated nor driven upon. Besides when you insert the rope-plug it must travel through and past the glued down inner foam pad. When the tool is then rapidly withdrawn the sticky plug bunches up the foam pad as its drawn back to the inner surface, therefore it will not be clean as shown in that picture. Every time we dismount a silent-run tire with a failed rope-plug, the foam pad has always been the culprit as it prevents a tight seal.

 

[mswlogo]

Well that picture does not look typical. Rope plugs are 4"-5" in length. Folding them in the tool reduces their length to 2"-2.5". Typically tire tread thickness are .63" to .75". That means if the inner view looks like that, it wasn't inserted deep enough leaving most the plug outside the tire to be cut off later. There should be way more rope left inside the tire to be installed properly. I'll bet that was a test rope-plug insertion demonstration on a dismounted tire that was never inflated nor driven upon. Besides when you insert the rope-plug it must travel through and past the glued down inner foam pad. When the tool is then rapidly withdrawn the sticky plug bunches up the foam pad as its drawn back to the inner surface, therefore it will not be clean as shown in that picture. Every time we dismount a silent-run tire with a failed rope-plug, the foam pad has always been the culprit as it prevents a tight seal.

How many folks came back that were successful?

There are two ways of plugging. I’m used to an older way.

The old way you push in, twist and pull back. And end up with 4 ropes in the plug. Old rope might have been thinner. The tool was closed on the end, like a big needle. This way tended to have a fairly stubby end inside.

The new way is you push in, and yank back and the end of the tool is OPEN and releases the cord INSIDE the tire. So you never pull the rope back through that could catch foam. This newer method would/should have even less issue with the foam (still possible I admit). The plug is only pushed in and released. Only two ropes would be in the hole with this method. As soon as you push in, you are more or less done, except getting the tool back out without pulling anything back through. Chances of grabbing foam, by the bare tool and getting released in the hole is pretty darn low, but not impossible. If it leaks do it again.

If it does hold, and not excessively large hole, the chances of it later degrading, due to foam is highly unlikely. The cement/rope squeezed in the hole is your primary seal. What ends up inside, foam or no foam, is the same.

I have kits that do it both ways. But I’ve mostly done the older method.