Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Info from Tesla - 277v feed to Wall Connector (HPWC) - Which Cars Support It

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
In a real pinch your 277v charging discovery with the UMC is awesome. I am still not sure I would do it every day (unless under very controlled conditions with little fire risk), but it is really cool!

My very generous employer (looking over my shoulder) is installing a NEMA 14-50 outlet for me to use with the UMC.

It turns out we have the 440/277 setup. Is this not recommended?

We do have a 110/208 side, but there is a perfect storm scenario where it could see full load and blow the breaker for the entire office.
 
My very generous employer (looking over my shoulder) is installing a NEMA 14-50 outlet for me to use with the UMC.

It turns out we have the 440/277 setup. Is this not recommended?

We do have a 110/208 side, but there is a perfect storm scenario where it could see full load and blow the breaker for the entire office.

You can hook it up to either 208 volts or 277 volts, whichever you prefer. 277 volts will charge faster.

277 is a nice option, especially if your 120/208 transformer is already close to the limit or you plan on expanding your office loads in the future.
 
  • Helpful
Reactions: Darkfox021
My very generous employer (looking over my shoulder) is installing a NEMA 14-50 outlet for me to use with the UMC.

It turns out we have the 440/277 setup. Is this not recommended?

We do have a 110/208 side, but there is a perfect storm scenario where it could see full load and blow the breaker for the entire office.

I don't think hooking 277v to a 14-50 would be up to code. What would happen if a Leaf, Bolt, or some other device was plugged in to it that was expecting 208/240?
 
I don't think hooking 277v to a 14-50 would be up to code. What would happen if a Leaf, Bolt, or some other device was plugged in to it that was expecting 208/240?

We are planning to shut off the breaker when it is not charging, so this wouldn't happen randomly. But, point taken - I specifically recommended the 14-50 for future compatibility to other EVs if any other employees buy a non-Tesla.

ETA - we're a small company (10 employees).
 
If you want to use 277V, you have to use a hard-wired HPWC. There is no other safe and code compliant way. Connecting 277V to NEMA 14-50 or 6-50 is just asking for trouble. These sockets are 240/208V line to line, while 277V service is line to neutral. That means the line to ground voltage is more than double.

Thanks for all the advice, we'll do it on the 208 side.

I'll blame the tripped breakers on the ladies portable heaters. :cool:
 
  • Funny
Reactions: APotatoGod
My very generous employer (looking over my shoulder) is installing a NEMA 14-50 outlet for me to use with the UMC.

It turns out we have the 440/277 setup. Is this not recommended?

We do have a 110/208 side, but there is a perfect storm scenario where it could see full load and blow the breaker for the entire office.

You should not under any circumstances wire a NEMA 14-50 to 277v. It is utterly not code compliant and could be very dangerous. ;-)

Some other folks here have under very controlled environments done some neat experiments, but I could never recommend what they have done for a general use setup. Not only is the receptacle not rated for it (and you would have to wire the receptacle with neutral connected to a hot and hot connected to the other hot which would make it extremely dangerous if you like plugged in an RV), but the UMC is also not rated for it (we really don't know if the UMC is just not rated for it, or if the UMC does not actually have sufficient isolation for the higher voltage - it does seem to work though).

If you want to use 277V, you have to use a hard-wired HPWC. There is no other safe and code compliant way. Connecting 277V to NEMA 14-50 or 6-50 is just asking for trouble. These sockets are 240/208V line to line, while 277V service is line to neutral. That means the line to ground voltage is more than double.

^--- What he said.

Also, so while you could use a Wall Connector, it technically is no longer in the manual that it supports 277v (though it used to be in the manual and Tesla Charging Support has confirmed that it works and they did not indicate any safety issues with it). There are circumstances where I would do this for the "coolness" factor, but it is kind of hard for me to advocate for in the "general" use case since Tesla is not pushing this deployment model right now and there are some existing Tesla's out there that might not charge reliably on it (Model 3's are fine).

You would need to do a load calculation to be sure, but the worst case scenario for loads on that step down transformer you mention likely would never happen, so perhaps connecting to that at 208v is an option. You could also do a lower amperage circuit (14-30 receptacle for example) if needed (something is better than nothing!). Or even a NEMA 6-20...

Note that code now requires GFCI protection on EV charging receptacles and I am not sure how difficult it would be to get a single pole GFCI breaker for a 277v feed if you went that route with just a receptacle. Though actually, now that I think of it, the GFCI requirement does not apply to 277v receptacles so nevermind. ;-)

One other option could be to install a NEMA 7-50R receptacle on the 277v (which is rated for it), and then use a custom adapter to NEMA 14-50 for the car. This still would not be in spec for the UMC, but at least the hard wired portion would be code compliant. I can't necessarily advocate for this, but it would be vastly better than wiring 277v to a 14-50 permanent receptacle on the wrong pins.
 
If hooking up to 277 volts, you’d want to use a hard wired wall connector. Hooking up a 277 volt receptacle is kind of ridiculous because it would require an adaptor to use your portable charge cord. While it would work, it isn’t an elegant solution and safety is questionable.

If you’re looking to charge non-Tesla EVs, you’ll definitely want to go with 208 volts. Maybe you could do one of each - a wall connector on 277 and a 14-50 receptacle on 208 volts. That would cost a little extra, but cover all of your bases.
 
277v..on a Tesla Wall connector. What happens when someone plugs their leaf in with one of these? Not the installers fault, just curious if a leaf/bolt would wig out and just not charger, or break something..
s-l640.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: APotatoGod
277v..on a Tesla Wall connector. What happens when someone plugs their leaf in with one of these? Not the installers fault, just curious if a leaf/bolt would wig out and just not charger, or break something..
s-l640.jpg

I don’t know what the maximum input voltage of a LEAF or a Bolt is. Best to label the unit so people know. If the voltage is too high for the car’s charger, it should just refuse to function, rather than failing in some sort of spectacular fashion.
 
  • Like
Reactions: APotatoGod
You can use a NEMA L7 plug which is 277v @ 30 amps. That would prevent any confusion.... basically what Eprosenx is recommending

As long as you are using an L7 receptacle, I see no reason not to do a 50a one (unless you have capacity concerns on the 480v service). If you do just a 30a one then you need to use a 30a adapter for the UMC to limit it to 24a of draw (which is still 6.6kW at 277v).

Would it also prevent plugging in the Tesla though? :)

Yeah, you would need to build a custom adapter (which would be fine for use with the UMC - other than the question of whether the UMC is rated for 277v) but it would be dangerous to use that adapter with anything else like an RV.

277v..on a Tesla Wall connector. What happens when someone plugs their leaf in with one of these? Not the installers fault, just curious if a leaf/bolt would wig out and just not charger, or break something..
s-l640.jpg

Yeah, so this is precisely one reason why random aftermarket things like shown above might be cool in most situations, but dangerous in others. When Tesla built the Wall Connector they designed it to be able to accept 277v. They knew the set of vehicles that had been produced with Tesla plugs in them and knew it would be safe. But when you make a 3rd party adapter like this, you are now extending the potential set of vehicles you need to be compatible with to everything with a J1772 port. The J1772 spec does not support 277v.... So who knows what would happen...

I don’t know what the maximum input voltage of a LEAF or a Bolt is. Best to label the unit so people know. If the voltage is too high for the car’s charger, it should just refuse to function, rather than failing in some sort of spectacular fashion.

I am not so sure this is true. Higher voltages require more "isolation" between components/conductors. i.e. thicker insulation, wider spacing, etc... Best case is a device that does not function, worst case is it arcs and catches on fire. The middle ground is that it fries your car but does not catch fire.

Tesla has said that they backed off from recommending 277v with the Wall Connectors since some of the vehicles they have produced might stop charging if voltage gets too high, but they have confirmed it won't damage the vehicle. YMMV with other cars when using an adapter like the one pictured above. That is not Tesla's fault...