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I crashed my new model 3: here’s what I’ve learned so far.

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We quickly worked out that the smoke was from the seat belt tensioners firing, and our battery wasn't on fire.

We tried to move to out of traffic to the side of the road, but the car was in park and wouldn't move to drive or anything else.

After a few minutes the Transurban assistance vehicles arrived. I couldn't shift to neutral in order for them to tow us,
but worked out that selecting tow mode from the service menu would allow the car to roll.

.... but tow mode would abruptly shut off and apply the brakes, shuddering us to a stop.
- Does the seat belt tensioners have to be replaced?
- Did the air bags get activated?

The Tow Mode should stay active for 20 minutes, may be there is a maximum distance then, or is it because you turned the wheel?

Note: I tested going to Tow mode, and I was able then to push my car but I did not touch the wheel.
This is something I would like to try then.

Only the rear wheels get locked, so I beleive that the tow truck would have been able to move the car
by grabing the rear wheels and lifting the car from the rear.

Instead of using rollers, two floor jacks to lift each rear wheel would had work too.
However it would not be recommended to move the car too far, and the steering wheel would have to be immobilized.

I beleive that the rear parking brake are two small electric calipers on each rear disk.
So it is possible to disconnect them to get the wheel free to rotate, but you might need to remove the wheel to do so.
Honestly didn't test it, but I will look at this next time I'll rotate my tires. I just saw a comment on another thread.

It is a pity that you were even not able to go to Neutral, as this release the parking brake.
(Are you sure you were not pressing the Brake pedal at the same time?)

Note: To have the Neutral working you have to remain sitting in the car.

However, there is a way to keep the car in Neutral:

First you need to bucle the seat belt before sitting inside the car.
Then when sitting, press the Brake pedal to turn the car ON.
Then go to Neutral without pressing the Brake pedal.
Then open the door, without pressing on the Brake pedal.
With a pen or a screwdriver, press on the door latch to the fully lock position.
You can then exit the car with the car in Neutral with the parking brake off.

To engage the parking brake, shift back to Park.
To release the door latch, use the indoor handle or switch.​
 
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- Does the seat belt tensioners have to be replaced?
- Did the air bags get activated?

The Tow Mode should stay active for 20 minutes, may be there is a maximum distance then?

Only the rear wheels get locked, so I beleive that the tow truck would have been able to move the car
by grabing the rear wheels and lifting the car from the rear. However it would not be recommended
to move the car too far, and the steering wheel would have to be immobilized.

I beleive that the rear parking brake are two small electric calipers on each rear disk.
So it is possible to disconnect them to get the wheel free to rotate, but you might need to remove the wheel to do so.
Honestly didn't test it, but I will look at this next time I'll rotate my tires. I just saw a comment on another thread.

It is a pity that you were even not able to go to Park, as this release the parking brake.
But you have to remain sitting in the car.
His problems were completely due to the fact that the tensioners (part of the SRS system) fired and the high voltage interlock cut out the traction battery. When that happens, the 12V battery is not maintained from the traction battery and there is little energy to continue to power the car while waiting for a tow truck. This is why I suggested opening the frunk so that the 12V battery can be accessed and power provided from a portable jump pack to allow unlocking the car and enabling Tow Mode for moving the car. In some cases when the 12V battery is really flat, a portable jump pack may be insufficient to completely boot up the car and enable Tow Mode. Either disconnecting the car's 12V battery or charging it from the tow truck's alternator may be necessary.

Park in a Tesla is not like a traditional car. Traditional cars with automatic transmissions have a parking pawl that will prevent the car from rolling when in Park. Tesla relies completely on the electric parking brake to implement the Park mode. In a Model 3, Neutral and Tow Mode are about the same except the car can remain in Tow Mode after opening the door and exiting the vehicle. In a Model S or X with Air Suspension, Tow Mode also disables the self-leveling system.
 
- Does the seat belt tensioners have to be replaced?
- Did the air bags get activated?

The Tow Mode should stay active for 20 minutes, may be there is a maximum distance then, or is it because you turned the wheel?

Note: I tested going to Tow mode, and I was able then to push my car but I did not touch the wheel.
This is something I would like to try then.

Only the rear wheels get locked, so I beleive that the tow truck would have been able to move the car
by grabing the rear wheels and lifting the car from the rear.

Instead of using rollers, two floor jacks to lift each rear wheel would had work too.
However it would not be recommended to move the car too far, and the steering wheel would have to be immobilized.

I beleive that the rear parking brake are two small electric calipers on each rear disk.
So it is possible to disconnect them to get the wheel free to rotate, but you might need to remove the wheel to do so.
Honestly didn't test it, but I will look at this next time I'll rotate my tires. I just saw a comment on another thread.

It is a pity that you were even not able to go to Neutral, as this release the parking brake.
(Are you sure you were not pressing the Brake pedal at the same time?)

Note: To have the Neutral working you have to remain sitting in the car.

However, there is a way to keep the car in Neutral:

First you need to bucle the seat belt before sitting inside the car.
Then when sitting, press the Brake pedal to turn the car ON.
Then go to Neutral without pressing the Brake pedal.
Then open the door, without pressing on the Brake pedal.
With a pen or a screwdriver, press on the door latch to the fully lock position.
You can then exit the car with the car in Neutral with the parking brake off.

To engage the parking brake, shift back to Park.
To release the door latch, use the indoor handle or switch.​

I thought that if you lift off the seat the car will shift to park, maybe this has been changed as early on people complained model S kept switching to park when reversing. Turned out people were lifting off the seat when looking over their shoulder and the car detected this as no driver and shifted to park.
 
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Tesla sued for wrongful death, door handles blamed | CarAdvice

Sad story. Door handles on 3 are flush as well but they are not retractable, I find them awkward to use though.

Doors in any crash will be hard to open. Metal will be twisted. Doors jammed. Sometimes the doors will be locked. Sad that he died, but this case must be a beat up if that's what they're suing for. Why wouldn't the policeman smash the window? They carry batons, tools, mag lights, pistols etc. Plenty of ways to break a window.
 
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Totaled my 4 month old Model 3 SR+ from a rear ender, too. Got the Dashcam footage, though. It's on YouTube for anyone to check out.

I experienced the whole "Tow Mode" thing, as well. Not as straight forward as you'd like in a collision situation, but we did end up getting it working. The tow driver had no clue, but I don't hold it against him. He'd never seen one before, either.

Once the car got to the salvage yard, the geniuses left the keycard IN THE VEHICLE after jumping the 12V and opening it up. I had to go down with the backup to save the day. Wasn't a big deal, I forgot some stuff inside and wanted to get it out anyway.

Agree with being patient with your insurance. These are very new and very unique cars and require very different assessment from ICE cars. Ours was a total loss (as you would guess from the video) and we're now on day 23 post order placement for the new one. IMO, Tesla should implement a "Fast Lane" replacement system for current owners who have their cars destroyed by careless drivers. Instead, I'm waiting in line with everyone else, but with no old car to hold onto during the wait. Also, insurance won't pay for a rental for more than 1 week after being declared a total loss. No exceptions for cars that take 6-10 weeks to get. :/

I would also suggest you make sure you have enough coverage to FULLY replace your car. The person who hit us had insufficient coverage to pay for ours, so we had to go through our own. No one ever thinks they're going to take out a $50k car and don't want to pay the premium to cover it, so they don't and you get screwed. But that's a whole different issue...
 
This was a super useful post. One that made me keep reading all of the comments of which many were also helpful. I hope I never get in this kind of situation but now I am armed properly. Also so glad you are all ok. Sad that you got your toy taken away so quickly. I hope they make the repairs just as quickly (well, faster than 3 weeks) and you are back on the road asap. Here is a pumpkin to make you smile while you wait.
 

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Ok, well I guess technically I didn't crash it. The villain in this story is clearly the guy who was driving behind, who had loads to room to stop, but for whatever reason, chose not to. This resulted in an almighty crash which scared the bejesus out of us, but thankfully everyone is fine with no injuries.

I've learned a few things about the process immediately following the crash which I think are worth sharing with you all, so here's my story:

We've had the model 3 for about 3 weeks. Flat out the most fun and best car I've ever owned or driven. So there we were out for a lovely Sunday drive when traffic ahead slowed, then slowed more then came quite quickly to a complete stop.

We had slowed almost to a stop and I had just enough time to see the car behind closing fast. It was probably only one or one and a half seconds, but seemed like an eternity to think about what I could do. Accelerate and try to give him more room, but risk crashing into the car in front? Accelerate and try to change lanes? No, too much traffic.. BANG!

The impact drove our car forward as the seat belt tensioners fired. My partner was in the passenger seat and it took a few seconds for our slow human brains to come to terms with what had just happened. Those seat belt tensioners really pull tight! Can't breathe properly. Smoke? Why is there smoke? Are you okay? Yes, okay, good, me too. A glance in the rear-view mirror and I saw that the guy who ran into us seemed okay too. Okay, that's good. Now what.

We quickly worked out that the smoke was from the seat belt tensioners firing, and our battery wasn't on fire. A good thing. There were a bunch of warnings on the screen: High voltage error, 12-Volt error, Warning: Car may shut down, Car may not drive, etc, etc. I don't remember them all.

We tried to move to out of traffic to the side of the road, but the car was in park and wouldn't move to drive or anything else. We were stuck.

After a few minutes the Transurban assistance vehicles arrived. I couldn't shift to neutral in order for them to tow us, but worked out that selecting tow mode from the service menu would allow the car to roll. However, selecting tow mode also turned off power steering for some reason, and that made it super difficult to move the car. The plan was to tow us for about 200 meters into the left-hand lane and then to safety, but tow mode would abruptly shut off and apply the brakes, shuddering us to a stop. New plan, get the car onto the tow truck while still in traffic. Eventually between switching to tow mode in order to roll the car and switching it off to get steering, we were able to get the car winched onto a flat bed tow truck and to safety.

Once off the freeway and deposited back on the side of the road (the Transurban truck isn't allowed to tow us anywhere but to safety) we got another tow truck. I was on the phone to the insurance and my partner handled the exchange of details with the other driver. So now I had to play this game again with the new tow truck. The new Tow driver didn't know how or want to drive our car, so I put the Car into Tow Mode, got winched up onto the second truck.

We went with the tow truck to the holding yard where we again used tow mode to allow the car to roll off the truck. We took of our stuff out of the car and locked it up. The iPhone App still worked and communicated with the car, but for some reason the GPS location was still showing the accident scene.

The lesson here: Make sure you know how tow mode works! I still don't understand why it shuts off power steering, or why it was shutting off every minute or so.

Back home later that evening we get a call from Tesla. The guy tells me that the car has a bunch of errors and is no longer visible on the network and asks is I know why. The car is now completely shut down. My app shows that it can't connect to the car and nor can Tesla. They tell me that in this shut down mode the car can't be unlocked using the app or the key cards anymore.

Lots of calls with the insurance company trying to explain what a Tesla is and that no, I don't have a physical key, and that the car is locked and I can't unlock it, etc, etc.

Next morning, lots of calls with the towing company who now want to move the car but need me to attend to unlock it. I try to explain that I can't unlock it.

I call Tesla customer support who inform me that the tow company should just use "gojacks" to move the car (these I discovered are like a skateboard with a jack built in which can be put under each wheel of the car so that it can be easily moved). So I call back the tow company and they basically say "what's a gojack". Apparently it's not something that Australian tow companies use.

Back on the phone to the insurance company to try to sort it out. They call a new preferred tow company to pick up the car. I'm reassured that this company knows how to move a Tesla and does it all the time. Okay good.

Next phone call is from the new tow company: "Hey, can you come here and unlock the car and put it in neutral so that we can tow it" Urgh... Lets do this dance again. I tell them that I can't unlock the car and that the car manufacturer recommends to use gojacks to move the car. "Wot Mate? a go-what?". Okay. Back to the insurance company.

After some more frantic calls to tow place, the insurer and my therapist, we now have the car moved to a Tesla approved repairer this afternoon. Apparently, the bulk of the delay was the tow company going out to buy some gojacks. Well, at least we all learned something.

So yeah, that's my story. Now I'm just sitting here sad and dejected because my new toy is broken, and it might be a while before I get to play with it again. Thanks for listening :)

TL;DR

1. Learn about how to use Tow Mode in your car. Your car might not be movable after an accident without it.

2. Apparently Australian tow companies don't use gojacks. If your car ends up completely shut down and needs a tow then you may need to teach them what a gojack is.

3. Be patient with your insurer. Teslas are new to them and a lot of the time the call centre workers are working off a script. That's the cost for being a (relatively) early adopter I guess.

Oh, and a huge shout out to the super awesome Transurban/Linkt emergency people who helped get us out of trouble and keep us safe immediately after the accident!
It sounds like a terrible experience.
It sounds like you are in Melbourne.
I have had the misfortune of someone running into my model S and the only auth repairer in melbourne, with a name starting with F, took 10 weeks to repair it. Communication from them was minimal.
The work needs rectifying for a long time afterwards.
It is one of the down side of having a Tesla.
I have bought 4....
service in Melbourne started with a guy with a mobile number, it grew for a couple of years and now it is a completely mess.
 
What a mess! Good luck, and thanks for the info.
About that glove box - I've read that also may not open, after an accident that kills the 12v battery. So it may be safest to keep emergency information elsewhere, too. Behind the front seat?
Formula 1 teams use similar dollys - except they are bigger, and two go under the center of the car. They lift the car, drop it down, then rotate the car from the pit box into the garage bay.
And since it's F1 - they probably cost what our cars did!
This spring, my wife and I were both fussing with the AC. In front of us, the 80mph traffic had suddenly stopped. All 6 lanes. As I stopped, I heard a big BANG! I was waiting to feel the impact... but it never happened. It was 2 big SUV's next to us. One stopped, the next one's car was now 3' shorter. I could see 2 popped airbags in the mirror. Probably more?
That may have been the point where my wife agreed we needed a car with a better brain than ours...
 
Totaled my 4 month old Model 3 SR+ from a rear ender, too. Got the Dashcam footage, though. It's on YouTube for anyone to check out.

I experienced the whole "Tow Mode" thing, as well. Not as straight forward as you'd like in a collision situation, but we did end up getting it working. The tow driver had no clue, but I don't hold it against him. He'd never seen one before, either.

Once the car got to the salvage yard, the geniuses left the keycard IN THE VEHICLE after jumping the 12V and opening it up. I had to go down with the backup to save the day. Wasn't a big deal, I forgot some stuff inside and wanted to get it out anyway.

Agree with being patient with your insurance. These are very new and very unique cars and require very different assessment from ICE cars. Ours was a total loss (as you would guess from the video) and we're now on day 23 post order placement for the new one. IMO, Tesla should implement a "Fast Lane" replacement system for current owners who have their cars destroyed by careless drivers. Instead, I'm waiting in line with everyone else, but with no old car to hold onto during the wait. Also, insurance won't pay for a rental for more than 1 week after being declared a total loss. No exceptions for cars that take 6-10 weeks to get. :/

I would also suggest you make sure you have enough coverage to FULLY replace your car. The person who hit us had insufficient coverage to pay for ours, so we had to go through our own. No one ever thinks they're going to take out a $50k car and don't want to pay the premium to cover it, so they don't and you get screwed. But that's a whole different issue...

Bloody hell, that was a hard hit!
That person who hit you looks like they did not attempt to brake at all.
 
I'm not 100% sure this works, but here's my suggestion: while the car still has power, pop the front trunk open. That allows access to the 12V battery under the cover at the base of the windscreen. Then the tow operator can jump it and then the card keys will work and tow mode will be available. Once any of the SRS system goes off, the traction battery will be isolated. Part of the repair will be resetting the high voltage battery interlock.

If the car is dead and won't unlock, open the round tow hook cover in the front bumper and apply 12V to the leads inside. That will pop the frunk open and allow jump starting the 12V battery.
This is very important! Does it work for MS? Is there a thread on this? If not can you start one please?
 
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Great write up. Good info, especially the smoke.

Do we have to store dollies in our trunk next to the jack pucks ;)

I’ve seen this issue posted before of it going out of tow mode (or similar) from someone being stuck in a garage that couldn’t get a tow truck to it. Something todo with 12V battery and using the access in the front bumper.