What are the Energy Graphs showing you? What recommendations are they making? Where do they say the power is going?
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
Help me diagnose possible high wh/mi highway usage
- Thread starter geordi
- Start date
What are the Energy Graphs showing you? What recommendations are they making? Where do they say the power is going?
I'm pretty sure the parking servos aren't dragging - I pulled the motors to reseal them and discovered that they were the newer style with the plastic O-ring channel on the gearbox, my sister's 2013 was an aluminum gearbox where it connected to the caliper. So I sealed them up with silicone after greasing the motors and all seemed good.
I haven't done anything with the brakes yet, gotta wait until I get it back from service now and maybe the sting of this invoice wears off a bit. When I get it back, I will be able to post the alignment sheet as it was in the door pocket.
I haven't done anything with the brakes yet, gotta wait until I get it back from service now and maybe the sting of this invoice wears off a bit. When I get it back, I will be able to post the alignment sheet as it was in the door pocket.
The classics don't have that in the energy screen, the only way to get an evaluation is via the (newly available) function in the app - I did it once, I have to do it again after it comes back from service.
The weight of the wheels will have minimal impact when driving at steady speeds. What will have an impact is the aero performance of the wheels, which can be huge. It could easily reduce range by 10% or more. (And then put hungry tires on top of that...)
That sounds like one of the filters may be clogged, either the small cabin one or the large HEPA one.
Now that I know it has a smaller filter, I agree with that assessment as a likely answer.
houstonian
ಠ_ಠ
@geordi - don’t have any specific ideas to offer up but do you have some kinda of data logger (e.g. TeslaFi, stats, etc.)?
As perhaps there may be a clue in comparing data across drives.
For example, while you may see consistently high usage on all drives, you note some subset where it’s particularly high unexpectedly suggesting some characteristic about that subset which is causing/exasperating the problem.
As perhaps there may be a clue in comparing data across drives.
For example, while you may see consistently high usage on all drives, you note some subset where it’s particularly high unexpectedly suggesting some characteristic about that subset which is causing/exasperating the problem.
I've got Tessie, ScanMyTesla... have to look and see if I have TeslaFi - but aren't they all just using the same available stats from the car's API? At least SMT is directly connected, but it doesn't seem to log.
I run in standard, although I have not seen a difference in the overall power usage by keeping it in chill - all it seems to do is put a display on the dash, and make the car feel less agile when performance might be needed. I don't stuff my foot in it often, but when I do, it is NEEDED to get out of a situation.
MobileClimate
Member
It has the discharge compressor temp sensor code I would assume tesla would run the condenser fan all the time if that code was present .its cheap insurance to replace the compressor before a failure into the entire system
The only two codes related to the climate control that I've seen are for one of the RCCM actuators (blend door) and that temperature sensor. I'm not certain when the temp sensor one came up, but it COULD be b/c I evacuated the system and recharged it. I wasn't convinced that it was charged properly (I think it may have been over actually) and now I know that it has exactly the right amount of refrigerant in it. It was evacuated very slowly to avoid loss of any oil, properly vacuumed, and then filled back up.
The condenser fan does not run continuously, and when it is running, only seems to ramp to high jet-engine-mode intermittently. That seems like normal performance.
In thinking about all of this, I'm starting to lean toward the idea that it may be something not monitored by the car's systems, like the brakes. That's considerably cheaper to mess with as an experiment, than replacing the compressor which seems to be working perfectly.
The condenser fan does not run continuously, and when it is running, only seems to ramp to high jet-engine-mode intermittently. That seems like normal performance.
In thinking about all of this, I'm starting to lean toward the idea that it may be something not monitored by the car's systems, like the brakes. That's considerably cheaper to mess with as an experiment, than replacing the compressor which seems to be working perfectly.
MobileClimate
Member
Scroll compressors use refrigerant oil for lubrication there is no oil pump and didn't tesla have some issues with scroll pump metal fatigue on earlier models..the whole purpose of the scroll is low startup power usage
EVERY type of AC compressor uses the refrigerant oil for lubrication. That's not unusual. But if you are evacuating a system and open the valves fully, the system will shift oil and refrigerant together to the collection unit. If you do it very slowly, the oil settles and the loss is minimal.
MobileClimate
Member
That compressor needs suction pressure for lubrication if you have zero pressure returning you have zero oil pressure that's not like other compressors it has way less moving parts also the dc converter can do weird things if you don't shut down and disconnect the 12 v battery correctly just an idea
Last edited:
The compressor wasn't running during the evacuation? I guess if you haven't done it before then you wouldn't know - it's not a powered process from the car side, all the refrigerant is pulled out of the car's system by a vacuum pump and the discharge of the pump is into a collection container. Or vented although you aren't supposed to do that... even though we all know it happens.
So the Tesla climate control was off. The valves were only just opened a crack to let the pressure escape slowly and not opened fully until the pressure had been drawn off to near zero. Then the vacuum kept pulling until it was down to nearly 30 inches, but the system was never "open" to any contamination. Once I was satisfied with the vacuum level, charge back up with a measured amount, and don't turn the compressor on until at least 25% was transferred.
I probably should have powered off the 12v, but that's an afterthought.
So the Tesla climate control was off. The valves were only just opened a crack to let the pressure escape slowly and not opened fully until the pressure had been drawn off to near zero. Then the vacuum kept pulling until it was down to nearly 30 inches, but the system was never "open" to any contamination. Once I was satisfied with the vacuum level, charge back up with a measured amount, and don't turn the compressor on until at least 25% was transferred.
I probably should have powered off the 12v, but that's an afterthought.
As soon as you get the car back, get a pyrometer and drive it 5 miles on the highway and check temperatures of the rotors through the wheel, and you'll most likely have your answer on the brakes.
brainhouston
Active Member
Wouldn't worry about it. Yes, its recommended not to vent but this is why everyone switched to R134a (safe for atmosphere) vs R22
Can't control things like accidents and leaks...
I don't worry about it, and I also know that the cans of "air duster" are exactly the same stuff - R134a. But the requirements do say that even 134a is supposed to be recovered rather than vented. I think it is just to make the process more expensive.
R22 was never in an automotive system though, but on a happier note for the environment, even refrigerators that had used R22 are now using R134a or possibly R410... While newer cars have switched to R1234yf because of course we need YET ANOTHER thing to have to have around. (bangs head on wall)
brainhouston
Active Member
henderrj
Active Member
Just a curiosity question from a guy who doesn't know too much. Could the AC compressor have increasing internal friction, causing more power to be used to run it? That doesn't seem as easy to check as dragging brakes, one only needs a remote temperature sensor for that.
Anyway, curious because I'm about to buy a 2018 X to replace my model S. Need to keep up on these things!
Anyway, curious because I'm about to buy a 2018 X to replace my model S. Need to keep up on these things!
