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AC Compressor theory of operation?

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Yeah it is a lot better to replace them when they aren't (yet) broken. Usually the indication is a lot higher power usage on home or RV air conditioners, but that's also hard to see unless you are monitoring or they blow the breaker. On something like an EV, if your power usage is suddenly higher, then you might have a problem brewing.
 
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Looks like the compressor in my sister's X has failed now, unless there's somehow a fuse issue or it is being commanded off by a coolant valve issue. The only service alerts are:
THC_d0007_valveRadBypass
THC_d0011_presSnsDis
THC_w0138_rfrgDisTempRange

I still find it very suspicious that two identical cars in for the pyro fuse BOTH get a coolant leak soon after, and it would appear that BOTH need the coolant valve. They wanted to replace both the 3 way and 4 way valves "because we typically just replace them both" at a cost of over $700 even when only the 3 way was supposedly showing a leak - but no errors - but this car now actually has errors. Are these errors enough to make it not run the compressor at all for the cabin? The refrigerant pressure was just below 100 psi on the low side (so nearly what I expected for a system that is off) but near zero on the high side. That's concerning as it hadn't leaked before.

What's interesting is that there wasn't any error during supercharging just yesterday, and I know it uses the compressor and fans to cool the battery during supercharging. I was able to get it to take a full 12 ounce can of refrigerant but the compressor never came on. The pressures are now equal high and low.

Thermal test failed on the first 5 items, all related to cabin climate: Aux evap, evap, chiller, pressure sensors, and valves.

Thoughts? How can I verify whether the compressor is the issue, or force it to come up for the rest of the car if not for the cabin?