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Get J1772 adapter to pop charge port door

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Ok, how does this sound. I'll get them programmed with the lower power setting and built up. I'll send it out to those that want one and, if it works for you and you like it, you can send me $20 back. Does that work?

Works for me! Will send the $20 whether I like it or not just for all the work you have put into this (but I suspect I will indeed like it).
 
Sign me up! Please PM me for mailing address, and let me know how you'd prefer to receive $20.

Tried to send PM myself, but apparently "lolachampcar has exceeded their stored private messages quota and cannot accept further messages until they clear some space." Must be popular!
 
Ok, head slightly above water.
Lower power code tested and seems to be working although I've not had an opportunity to try the distance part. It opens my wife and my car which is good enough.

Lloyd, EarthDog, Mitch and NJPlugin are on the way. This time I used those nasty plastic bubble wrap pouch things that are almost childproof to open. Hopefully the USPS will not mangle them too.
Giz and Jerry will go tomorrow (just got your notes) which finishes off the key fob plastic bits I have.

I'll get another plastics order in to build another twenty. I'll wait for comments on these six before programming the remaining boards.
 
Would love one whenever you get un-buried. Paypal work for you?

Thanks
Ken


Ok, head slightly above water.
Lower power code tested and seems to be working although I've not had an opportunity to try the distance part. It opens my wife and my car which is good enough.

Lloyd, EarthDog, Mitch and NJPlugin are on the way. This time I used those nasty plastic bubble wrap pouch things that are almost childproof to open. Hopefully the USPS will not mangle them too.
Giz and Jerry will go tomorrow (just got your notes) which finishes off the key fob plastic bits I have.

I'll get another plastics order in to build another twenty. I'll wait for comments on these six before programming the remaining boards.
 
Here are the results using a Silicon Labs Si4355 receiver to capture the output from the Tesla charge cord (which uses a Si4010 transmitter chip). Not shown here is three bytes of 0x55 preamble the radio uses to sync up on the incomming transmission. The data displayed repeats deep into the buffer which means the transmitter sends it many times but the data payload seems to be a fully repeatable 16 bytes. The data is not Manchester Encoded.

The WDS utility that was used to do this testing will also generate the necessary settings to accomplish this with the Si4010 transmitter chip. The one on my development board is already programmed so I have more fresh parts coming in for testing. We are getting close.


BTW- I see the same code.

Ken

Charge cable.jpg
 
Yep, but for some reason there is some bit mangling that goes on at the transmitter data to output buffer part that really does not make sense. I started the process of walking data through the transmitter to the receiver to see what SiLabs was doing. The guys/gals in Europe were kind enough to share their output data raw payload which ended up working perfectly (so I did not have to figure it out myself :) ).

i really do find SiLabs to be lacking when compared to the likes of a Freescale.
 
I'd like to try the same but can't seem to track down a programmable 315MHz transmitter from SiLabs- any insight on where you got yours? Or did you hack the fob that came with your development kit?

Yep, but for some reason there is some bit mangling that goes on at the transmitter data to output buffer part that really does not make sense. I started the process of walking data through the transmitter to the receiver to see what SiLabs was doing. The guys/gals in Europe were kind enough to share their output data raw payload which ended up working perfectly (so I did not have to figure it out myself :) ).

i really do find SiLabs to be lacking when compared to the likes of a Freescale.
 
The transmitters are OTP (one time programmable) parts. If blank, you can use the IDE to download and run development code for testing but, once you burn them and set them to run your program, you loose the ability to download and test code. Blank chips are cheap if you're into smt soldering :)
 
Ok, head slightly above water.
Lower power code tested and seems to be working although I've not had an opportunity to try the distance part. It opens my wife and my car which is good enough.

Lloyd, EarthDog, Mitch and NJPlugin are on the way. This time I used those nasty plastic bubble wrap pouch things that are almost childproof to open. Hopefully the USPS will not mangle them too.
Giz and Jerry will go tomorrow (just got your notes) which finishes off the key fob plastic bits I have.

I'll get another plastics order in to build another twenty. I'll wait for comments on these six before programming the remaining boards.

THANKS LolaC, I will keep a eye out for it.

Happy New Year
 
Recipients will need a CR2032 battery (shipped without). Also-

Fobs out today via first class mail.

It is a bit of a PITA to get the case open to install a battery. I use a small screw driver and start at the "loop" end of the case where you would attach a keychain loop.

Please pay particular attention to how the battery goes in. The larger part of the battery case is positive and is meant to be in contact with the battery retaining bracket. The smaller round cap on the battery is the negative and is meant to contact the round pad on the key fob printed circuit board. Get a hold of me if this does not make sense.

Bill