direct from tesla and this is the state its in sadly... I am giving them a chance to rectify the issues which at this point I am not expecting them to. I am expecting to walk away at this point. I was just trying to get it to where I had no car payment and this was the price to do this at...
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Buying a used Tesla and I have concerns.
- Thread starter PizzaDaddy
- Start date
I wouldnt buy that car in the condition shown. I would also escalate to them about seeing if they could move my deposit to another vehicle, as some of the things are excessive.
Of course, the way Tesla sells used cars (without pictures etc) is a non starter for me, for just this reason. New cars are not an issue, I like teslas sales approach for new cars. Used ones? I cant commit to buying something that costs as much as a used vehicle does, without some sort of pictures.
Tesla also does not sell "Certified used cars". They sell "used cars". They are not certifying anything.
Of course, the way Tesla sells used cars (without pictures etc) is a non starter for me, for just this reason. New cars are not an issue, I like teslas sales approach for new cars. Used ones? I cant commit to buying something that costs as much as a used vehicle does, without some sort of pictures.
Tesla also does not sell "Certified used cars". They sell "used cars". They are not certifying anything.
Absolutely... I will be trying to do that or asking for the deposit back because this is unacceptable...
The used cars without pictures would be okay if these things followed their guide that they sent me.... They sent me a text of the guidelines and it said I could expect stains that were 1 inch. The whole seat being stained is not 1 inch. The markings on the headliner are not 1 inch. I do not think they can come back to me saying this is standard for a vehicle to have when I bought a model 3 8 months prior with none of these issues my model 3 had a scratch on the windshield and a tiny little rock chip that is not really visible. The advisor telling me this y was one of the better ones he has seen he has to be full of it and was hoping I would just take the vehicle and not make this an issue I can almost put money on that...
They are not certifying anything but if you give me a guide on what to expect when picking my car up you are telling me that if these issues are present on the car they are on them not me. I have a feeling the text is the only thing that is going to save me on this one.
MSLR2023ULTRED
Member
Why buy something that costs tens of thousands of dollars without seeing it first? That too Tesla? Quality of their new cars is not that great (aside from the tech and may be battery, I cringe every time I close the passenger side door on our new MSLR, that sound it makes tells you how poorly built the car is) combine that with horrible customer service. Why buy used car from them without seeing it first? If they don't operate that way, I would buy something else.
OxBrew
Active Member
well i got the smell of mold which would be easy to fix with the air filters but there was a BO smell as well idk if that was a normal thing or not from the filters. I haven't experienced the stinky tesla thing first hand lol.
its a dumb business model but they do it this way as a way to force you into buying a car with issues that's why they try to hold your deposit as ransom... Its a scummy tactic that works for them unfortunately.
MSLR2023ULTRED
Member
I would walk away (even if it means potentially losing $500). It could be long nightmare for you if you can't fix these issues (for reasonable price) and if new/bigger problems are uncovered. I know this is a Tesla forum but if you are open to other brands consider Prius. I think new prius (prime?) looks cool. And you will get a Toyota, a quality brand with good customer service (which you will probably never need).
Why would a sane Tesla owner recommend a gas car?
Just buy a new Model Y for a few thousand more after tax credits. You don't really need LR or a better stereo. I'd rather have new. No way would I buy a 3 year old Tesla for more than 50% of a new one
Upgrading from my 3 is for the stereo the space and seating position.... The radio in the 3 sr I have sucks and the radio in the y rwd I recently did the test drive on has the same stereo. the better stereo is a huge selling point to me. people can try to defend the sound system in the rwd and the sr all they want but they are not good at all. A toyota corolla has a better stereo system than them. A new y after credits with the same add ons would be like 50k I think the savings are slightly worth it had it not looked like it did...
lol you need us to tell you to not buy this thing? Tesla really thinks their $hit does not stink from this behavior and people are trying to convince themselves to still go for it. I don't get it... I'm glad to see this as I was considering buying a used Y and had no idea it was this bad. Wow. If this thing were at a used car lot, they would have at least gotten it detailed first and tried a little harder. How sad.
well I was seeing if there was anyway to save it because I was/am walking away from it currently...
MSLR2023ULTRED
Member
Well, I was looking at it from value for money and budget and quality (of a product and service). I am not out there to save the world like some other Tesla owners. I am in it for value, quality product and tech (I only got last one with Tesla but also satisfied some of my ego, the poorly built car notwithstanding). To each his own. If I were in the market to buy something like model 3 or Y, I would definitely consider Prius. Must better car. All other cars I have owned were Toyotas (including one Lexus). Between three of them I drove almost half a million miles and hardly had any complaints in last 25 years. I wouldn’t discount a hybrid from them.
Assuming you qualify for the tax credits, you’re not that far off of what I paid for my new 2024 MYLR last month. Spend another $10K and get a new car with new warranty.
Xenoilphobe
Well-Known Member
We gave up looking at used and got a new LRY for the exact reasons you stated, the stereo and the range reduction in the RWY totally devalued the whole car. I would never buy a used Tesla from Tesla, go direct to a current owner, you will always get a better deal, especially if you are as discerning as you are about the cosmetic stuff. Over the years my driveway has had 5 "eBay Queens", bought using the following terms; vehicle you want + divorce or bankruptcy or separation or estate sale or moving out of country. It takes some time and frustration as some people (mostly used car dealers) just outright lie about the condition or specific information about the car, I recommend just excluding the dealers from your search. All the successful "Queens" were bought direct from the original owner or family member.
The best deal I ever got was a wife who sold her husbands motorcycle while they were separated. New Honda 2004 VFR800 VTEC with 480 miles on it for $6200 dollars in 2004. The hard case panniers on it alone where $1.5K, and came with 2 new helmets, security lock, cover and bunch of VOX operated communications gear. She was also selling his BMW, but I had no interest buying an M something.
Also bought a 2014 P85+ bought in 2015 for $69K, estate sale with 9K on the ODO, the P85D had just dropped so it was an excellent timing event for an awesome RWD performance S, just sold this car with 112K on the ODO for $36K last year. New 2007 FJ Cruiser with 1800 miles on it for $22,900 in 2008 from a kid who got over extended, still have it. A new in 2014 Grand Touring Miata for $9K with 1400 miles on it, fresh water damaged (guy left the top open during Katrina), changed out one electronic control unit under the dash for $250 part + $150 in labor and it is still in my driveway 10 years later now with 75K miles on it, Zero FX Motorcycle with 400 miles for $6K, new it was $12K, 8K later still have it.
If you can't go look at the vehicle you can have eBay do it for you and provide a report for ~$100 through a company called SGS. Dealerships charge that for "paperwork" or some other BS useless charge. You know you are on the the right set of cars when the other guys looking at it are broker buyers.....just over bid them and a you should be GTG.
Your concerns are justified, don't walk, run away from this "deal". There are some nasty un-hygienic people out there, I would never buy that car, your nose told you everything you needed to know.
The best deal I ever got was a wife who sold her husbands motorcycle while they were separated. New Honda 2004 VFR800 VTEC with 480 miles on it for $6200 dollars in 2004. The hard case panniers on it alone where $1.5K, and came with 2 new helmets, security lock, cover and bunch of VOX operated communications gear. She was also selling his BMW, but I had no interest buying an M something.
Also bought a 2014 P85+ bought in 2015 for $69K, estate sale with 9K on the ODO, the P85D had just dropped so it was an excellent timing event for an awesome RWD performance S, just sold this car with 112K on the ODO for $36K last year. New 2007 FJ Cruiser with 1800 miles on it for $22,900 in 2008 from a kid who got over extended, still have it. A new in 2014 Grand Touring Miata for $9K with 1400 miles on it, fresh water damaged (guy left the top open during Katrina), changed out one electronic control unit under the dash for $250 part + $150 in labor and it is still in my driveway 10 years later now with 75K miles on it, Zero FX Motorcycle with 400 miles for $6K, new it was $12K, 8K later still have it.
If you can't go look at the vehicle you can have eBay do it for you and provide a report for ~$100 through a company called SGS. Dealerships charge that for "paperwork" or some other BS useless charge. You know you are on the the right set of cars when the other guys looking at it are broker buyers.....just over bid them and a you should be GTG.
Your concerns are justified, don't walk, run away from this "deal". There are some nasty un-hygienic people out there, I would never buy that car, your nose told you everything you needed to know.
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I feel for you if you are truly out $500 just from rejecting this POS, that sucks. There is no way I'm plopping down $500 for an abused car like that. Who knows how many boogers are trapped between the seats from the little punks that did that damage. My kids would never do that to a vehicle. The world is filled with used Teslas probably best to go buy one off of a used car lot or private.
It’s been 3 full days and they haven’t been able to reach a conclusion on this car about those issue being out of spec. I feel like they are going to try to con me and tell me on the last day that all this stuff is okay or they are going to find a way to cancel the sale and not repair it. Have a feeling the fixes for this are not cheap and they know that.
I can’t even talk to them about this being an issue and wanting my money back because they are still looking into it. It’s sad that they thought this was okay to list on their site without pictures.
I picked up a 2022 MYLR about 3 weeks ago from used inventory. It was at least $10k less than new when factoring in FSD and Acceleration Boost. I must have gotten lucky because my interior was solid with the exception of some cleaning I'm going to have to do the front of the headliner. What are people doing in their cars??? Wait, I don't really want to know, LOL. There was one substantial paint chip on the rear passenger door with a couple of smaller dings close to it, but they have been touched up so mostly happy with exterior too, The tires were new, I think they're throwing on the crappy Goodyear's that they can't sell anyway. I read buying from used inventory is a crap-shoot, so I knew there was a small risk going into it.
I knew buying used would be a toss up. But convincing me to put the order in saying
“Cosmetic and Mechanical Standards
Every used Tesla has passed an internal inspection and may undergo, or is currently undergoing, light repairs to be prepared for sale. Cosmetic imperfections and normal wear and tear indicative of the age and mileage of the car should still be expected.
Exterior
Paint scratches that measure up to 4" in one direction
Scuffs and scrapes that measure up to 4" in multiple directions
Dents or dings that are less than 2" in diameter
Rock chips
Interior
Wear on upholstery or interior panels including markings, discoloration, small tears or stains up to 1"
Wear on entry and exit points
Keep in mind these are standardize guideline for normal wear and tear on used vehicles. It does not mean that the vehicle has all these things.”
And they vehicle not meeting this is kind of a slap in the face
