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Adjusting the adjustable suspension
- Thread starter Tdave
- Start date
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- Performance Roadster
Still the stock 60 wear rating Sport tires in front. Some new 180 wear rating tires in the rear.
25-30 mph on some relatively tight traffic circles (with no traffic in sight at the time). There's a medium sized one and small one close to each other that's good for this. Here's a satellite map.
kgb
Member
When you adjust these shocks, do you have to take the weight off the wheels, or can this be done with the car on the ground?
Same question for the sway bar.
Same question for the sway bar.
My local Tesla tech says," When I did your adjustments I did jack the car up, but that was more for ease of access than anything else. You definitely don’t have to take the weight off the wheels when adjusting the shocks, and I don’t think it’s necessary for the sway bars either."
Webbie
kgb
Member
I can confirm this. I made both adjustments on my Roadster today. Shocks are 7F/10R and anti-roll bars are now front outer-most (loose) and rear middle. I'd say that 80% of the understeer is gone but there is still an understeer bias. Testing the new setup, I had to work hard to create oversteer (previously impossible) but the car was FAR better balanced.
The adjustment was very simple. I did it in my garage with a 17 mm socket and a 17 mm open wrench. No jack or lift. To adjust, turn the steering wheel fully to one side and hold the inside bolt still with the open wrench while you remove the outside bolt with the socket wrench.
The shocks are adjusted with a simple dial you can reach easily in the front and with the aide of a hand mirror for the rear shocks. Look for the orange dot below the dial. You might need to clean the base of the shocks and under the dial with a rag to see it.
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kgb
Member
@N8te, thanks that is a good explanation. I just checked the other day, and due to the low clearance, I couldn't even stick my fat head under the car to look. I'll try the wheel turning experiment (and mirror).
Also, I need directions to the front and rear stabilizer/sway/anti-roll bars. I popped the hood & trunk and for the life of me, couldn't see anything that looked like an "anti-roll bar." How much of the car needs to be disassembled before I'll see it?
Also, I need directions to the front and rear stabilizer/sway/anti-roll bars. I popped the hood & trunk and for the life of me, couldn't see anything that looked like an "anti-roll bar." How much of the car needs to be disassembled before I'll see it?
Can't get my fat head under the car either, but that's ok because you won't need to. You'll take the entire car apart if you start from the hood and the trunk, so don't do that. You don't need to remove/dismantle anything to reach these parts and adjust them.
For the front anti-roll / sway bars (the only ones I adjusted), lie down next to the aft side of your driver's side front wheel and look across the bottom of your car at your passenger side front wheel. On the other side of your car, you will see a black metal bar that comes down from the body of the car just medial to the passenger side front wheel (you are looking at it from the other side of the car just so you know where it is). It will curve so it runs parallel to the side of the car, just a few inches inside of the wheel and just below the flat underside of the car. It will have three holes at the end of the bar and a bolt attaching it to the wheel that goes through the center hole. This is the anti-roll bar. When you see the three holes, you will know it is the correct bar (sorry if this sounds like some bizzare sexual reference, it is completely unintended). It connects the two front wheels. They are the same on both sides. I turned the wheel all the way to one direction to better access the bolt. I found it easiest to reach the bolt on the driver side with the steering wheel turned all the way to the left (working from the front of the wheel).
Using the 17mm socket wrench and another 17mm open wrench, remove the outer nut. The open wrench is needed to keep the inner nut from turning on the other side of the bar, right next to the rubber piece. When the outside nut is off, the bolt should be moved to the end hole and the nut tightened securely after the bolt is moved. I had to play with one side to set it to come loose from the hole, but the other popped out immediately.
You need the hand mirror only for the rear shock adjustment. Just look for the blue dial with numbers 1-10 of it at the base of the coiled metal springs. The stiffness setting corresponds to the number aligned with the orange dot BELOW the dial. If you are like me, you will turn it the wrong way the first time thanks to the reversed image in the mirror. The dial turns very easily. You don't have to force it at all. The difficult part is finding the blue dial and a path for your hand to reach it. The shock adjustment is much easier if you take off the wheels, but who wants to do all that?
The front shock adjustment dial is much easier to reach. Just turn the steering wheel fully to one side.
I hope this is helpful.
For the front anti-roll / sway bars (the only ones I adjusted), lie down next to the aft side of your driver's side front wheel and look across the bottom of your car at your passenger side front wheel. On the other side of your car, you will see a black metal bar that comes down from the body of the car just medial to the passenger side front wheel (you are looking at it from the other side of the car just so you know where it is). It will curve so it runs parallel to the side of the car, just a few inches inside of the wheel and just below the flat underside of the car. It will have three holes at the end of the bar and a bolt attaching it to the wheel that goes through the center hole. This is the anti-roll bar. When you see the three holes, you will know it is the correct bar (sorry if this sounds like some bizzare sexual reference, it is completely unintended). It connects the two front wheels. They are the same on both sides. I turned the wheel all the way to one direction to better access the bolt. I found it easiest to reach the bolt on the driver side with the steering wheel turned all the way to the left (working from the front of the wheel).
Using the 17mm socket wrench and another 17mm open wrench, remove the outer nut. The open wrench is needed to keep the inner nut from turning on the other side of the bar, right next to the rubber piece. When the outside nut is off, the bolt should be moved to the end hole and the nut tightened securely after the bolt is moved. I had to play with one side to set it to come loose from the hole, but the other popped out immediately.
You need the hand mirror only for the rear shock adjustment. Just look for the blue dial with numbers 1-10 of it at the base of the coiled metal springs. The stiffness setting corresponds to the number aligned with the orange dot BELOW the dial. If you are like me, you will turn it the wrong way the first time thanks to the reversed image in the mirror. The dial turns very easily. You don't have to force it at all. The difficult part is finding the blue dial and a path for your hand to reach it. The shock adjustment is much easier if you take off the wheels, but who wants to do all that?
The front shock adjustment dial is much easier to reach. Just turn the steering wheel fully to one side.
I hope this is helpful.
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Hi Guys,
A diagram of the adjustable suspension is attached. For the front anti-roll bar could someone please confirm whether the setting to reduce the understeer (softer) means moving the bolt to the left hand side of the diagram or the right?
View attachment Suspension Settings EU.pdf
Just want to be 100% sure before adjusting!
Thanks
Alan
A diagram of the adjustable suspension is attached. For the front anti-roll bar could someone please confirm whether the setting to reduce the understeer (softer) means moving the bolt to the left hand side of the diagram or the right?
View attachment Suspension Settings EU.pdf
Just want to be 100% sure before adjusting!
Thanks
Alan
kgb
Member
Hmmm... I wonder why my car didn't come with (a North American version of) that document? It's not a Sport but it does have the adjustable suspension...
Same here. I wonder if that diagram is an initiative of the London store or a diference in policy / law from country to country...
kgb
Member
@n8te's post was very helpful. Early in this thread, most people wrote about stiffening the shocks and adjusting the front anti-roll bar 1st and then possibly the rear. Interesting to note that the semi-official position of Tesla is to leave the front alone and to only adjust the rear. That said, I thought I'd write a little something about adjusting the rear anti-roll bar.
The rear ant-roll bar has the same nut configuration. 17mm. Use socket on the outer nut, and stabilize the inner nut with an open wrench (I used a narrow vice grip). For the right rear wheel, lie down with your feet facing the front and your head just behind the tire. When you lift up your head to peer over the splash shield (undercarriage cover), you'll see the anti-roll bar, but sadly the nut will be facing away from you. With your left hand, slip the socket wrench over the nut (socket facing you). Although you can see, some of the work is done by "feel." Left rear was easier, since I'm righty and get to use my right hand.
I chose to follow the Tesla recommendations and left the front alone. I'll let you know how it feels later.
The rear ant-roll bar has the same nut configuration. 17mm. Use socket on the outer nut, and stabilize the inner nut with an open wrench (I used a narrow vice grip). For the right rear wheel, lie down with your feet facing the front and your head just behind the tire. When you lift up your head to peer over the splash shield (undercarriage cover), you'll see the anti-roll bar, but sadly the nut will be facing away from you. With your left hand, slip the socket wrench over the nut (socket facing you). Although you can see, some of the work is done by "feel." Left rear was easier, since I'm righty and get to use my right hand.
I chose to follow the Tesla recommendations and left the front alone. I'll let you know how it feels later.
kgb
Member
UPDATE:
First let me give you a little background to put this opinion into perspective... I don't consider myself a "gear head." First I found myself playing Grand Tourismo... then I went to the track a few times... the Tesla is my second sports car, the previous was a Mercedes SL55 AMG (my track car is a 1988 Toyota MR2 Supercharged).
I have a 2.5 Sport with the performance tires and it came as indicated in the EU spec sheet. All four corners set to 2 and the anti-roll bars in the center holes. I just finished setting the car to their settings: Front 7 anti-roll still middle hole, Rear 10 anti-roll in hole "3." I didn't take the car to the track yet... I will soon. However, just driving aggressively on some cloverleafs with TC off I found that I was able to do some throttle turns, but with TC on there was still some under-steer. I am satisfied with these settings and have no desire to play with the fronts. That being said, this car is also my everyday car. The shocks are too stiff for everyday driving. Now that I see how easy it is to change the setting on the shocks, I'm going to try out 1 in the front and 2 in the rear and see how that is...
This makes me wonder about all the reviewers who complained about the Tesla's handling. Did they drive the car with the comfort settings or the "sport" settings. I think they might change their opinion.
First let me give you a little background to put this opinion into perspective... I don't consider myself a "gear head." First I found myself playing Grand Tourismo... then I went to the track a few times... the Tesla is my second sports car, the previous was a Mercedes SL55 AMG (my track car is a 1988 Toyota MR2 Supercharged).
I have a 2.5 Sport with the performance tires and it came as indicated in the EU spec sheet. All four corners set to 2 and the anti-roll bars in the center holes. I just finished setting the car to their settings: Front 7 anti-roll still middle hole, Rear 10 anti-roll in hole "3." I didn't take the car to the track yet... I will soon. However, just driving aggressively on some cloverleafs with TC off I found that I was able to do some throttle turns, but with TC on there was still some under-steer. I am satisfied with these settings and have no desire to play with the fronts. That being said, this car is also my everyday car. The shocks are too stiff for everyday driving. Now that I see how easy it is to change the setting on the shocks, I'm going to try out 1 in the front and 2 in the rear and see how that is...
This makes me wonder about all the reviewers who complained about the Tesla's handling. Did they drive the car with the comfort settings or the "sport" settings. I think they might change their opinion.
kgb
Member
Another UPDATE:
When I adjusted the suspension to the stiffer settings, like some of the earlier posts in this thread, I wasn't sure I felt much of a difference. But now that I set the springs to 1 in the front and 2 in the rear, the car is so smooooooth. Much nicer for getting around town. So, if you use your car for everyday driving I can recommend these settings (leaving the rear anti-roll in the sport "3" position). Then, whenever I want to have fun, it is super-easy to just stiffen the springs.
When I adjusted the suspension to the stiffer settings, like some of the earlier posts in this thread, I wasn't sure I felt much of a difference. But now that I set the springs to 1 in the front and 2 in the rear, the car is so smooooooth. Much nicer for getting around town. So, if you use your car for everyday driving I can recommend these settings (leaving the rear anti-roll in the sport "3" position). Then, whenever I want to have fun, it is super-easy to just stiffen the springs.
Roger Reid
Old but effective
KGB, this is what I did to my Tesla Sport.
I softened up the front sway bar (outside hole).
Stiffened up the rear bar (inside hole).
This is easiest done by putting a jack under the lift point under the frame close to the rear of the door. This will lift both tires. Removing the tires makes it easier. see post 46 for other details.
Front shock set to mid (5).
Rear shock set to firm (10).
I also removed the abs sensor bracket and any shims on each front wheel hub and band clamped it to the a arm. This maximizes the negative camber. The bracket and shims are found by removing the 2 screws near the upper ball joint (use a breaker bar, they are tight). It still needs more negative camber but would require a machine shop to get it. Keep in mind that certain racing class rules (SCCA Super Stock class) prevent this bracket from being removed. Check your local regs. Removing this bracket or adding or removing shims (front only) will not affect toe in.
I installed Hoosier A6 205 wide front tires (20 psi). Stock front is a 195. No clearance issues. Stock size Hoosier A6 rear tires (22 psi). The car will need to be set up for the new tire size (it works with this tire combo). Iis on the touch screen menu and is explained very well on screen.
With all these modifications the car turns much better. I can now modulate the balance of the car mid turn with the throttle. The car is not biased towards oversteer yet.
One thing I have not tried yet is to remove the linkage to the front sway bar (allowed by SCCA rules). Removing just one link will keep the bar attached to one wheel so it won't flop around.
My son Blair has had great results at autocross so far and wants to take a national event in the spring. I'm getting set up with an enclosed trailer and portible generator. See you at the races.
Roger
I softened up the front sway bar (outside hole).
Stiffened up the rear bar (inside hole).
This is easiest done by putting a jack under the lift point under the frame close to the rear of the door. This will lift both tires. Removing the tires makes it easier. see post 46 for other details.
Front shock set to mid (5).
Rear shock set to firm (10).
I also removed the abs sensor bracket and any shims on each front wheel hub and band clamped it to the a arm. This maximizes the negative camber. The bracket and shims are found by removing the 2 screws near the upper ball joint (use a breaker bar, they are tight). It still needs more negative camber but would require a machine shop to get it. Keep in mind that certain racing class rules (SCCA Super Stock class) prevent this bracket from being removed. Check your local regs. Removing this bracket or adding or removing shims (front only) will not affect toe in.
I installed Hoosier A6 205 wide front tires (20 psi). Stock front is a 195. No clearance issues. Stock size Hoosier A6 rear tires (22 psi). The car will need to be set up for the new tire size (it works with this tire combo). Iis on the touch screen menu and is explained very well on screen.
With all these modifications the car turns much better. I can now modulate the balance of the car mid turn with the throttle. The car is not biased towards oversteer yet.
One thing I have not tried yet is to remove the linkage to the front sway bar (allowed by SCCA rules). Removing just one link will keep the bar attached to one wheel so it won't flop around.
My son Blair has had great results at autocross so far and wants to take a national event in the spring. I'm getting set up with an enclosed trailer and portible generator. See you at the races.
Roger
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kgb
Member
I have additional input to this thread. I do not claim to have nearly the experience of Roger Reid, but I thought I'd add my experience.
Up until now, I've only driven my car around town. The best cornering we have here in Houston are the freeway ramps. I finally had the chance to do some autocross. I used the "official" Tesla sport settings. Front anti-roll bar is still in the stock middle hole, and the rear is in the 3rd (inner) hole. I set the front to 8 and the rear to 10. Front tires were stock Yokohama A048 at 32 psi and rear were Toyo Proxes R888 at 38 psi. (Now that I re-read Roger's post, I'm thinking I had the tire pressures too high... but the higher pressure in the back did help a lot with the understeer)
In any case, those settings were an EXCELLENT starting point. Problem was, it was my first autocross, and I only had 4 runs, so I didn't really get a chance to play with the settings. I would like to say there was absolutely NO understeer with these settings, nor was there any oversteer. Of all the cars I have ever driven, this was the best handling car I have ever driven. It was so surefooted. I have never felt so solid. I really liked the fact that I could do throttle steering with such precision. This was a really great car to autocross with. I wasn't planning on doing it again, but now that I did, I will definitely do it again.
Here's a video of my fastest (4th of 4) run.
Up until now, I've only driven my car around town. The best cornering we have here in Houston are the freeway ramps. I finally had the chance to do some autocross. I used the "official" Tesla sport settings. Front anti-roll bar is still in the stock middle hole, and the rear is in the 3rd (inner) hole. I set the front to 8 and the rear to 10. Front tires were stock Yokohama A048 at 32 psi and rear were Toyo Proxes R888 at 38 psi. (Now that I re-read Roger's post, I'm thinking I had the tire pressures too high... but the higher pressure in the back did help a lot with the understeer)
In any case, those settings were an EXCELLENT starting point. Problem was, it was my first autocross, and I only had 4 runs, so I didn't really get a chance to play with the settings. I would like to say there was absolutely NO understeer with these settings, nor was there any oversteer. Of all the cars I have ever driven, this was the best handling car I have ever driven. It was so surefooted. I have never felt so solid. I really liked the fact that I could do throttle steering with such precision. This was a really great car to autocross with. I wasn't planning on doing it again, but now that I did, I will definitely do it again.
Here's a video of my fastest (4th of 4) run.
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Mitrovic
Member
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