I am new to the forum and hoping that someone can assist. I’ve had my MYP for 14 months and overall like the car. I was well aware of the stiff suspension going in and don’t mind it at all. My issue, which seems to have gotten worse lately, is it’s very bouncy side-to-side over bumps at high speeds (65+). The tires were a little over inflated so I adjusted them but it doesn’t seem to be helping much, if at all. It’s very strange because the ride used to be firm but very planted and now everything has changed. I love the car and would like to keep it but I won’t be driving a car that makes me nervous it’s going to bounce into another car. Thank you in advance.
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
22 MYP Bouncy at high speeds
- Thread starter mike524
- Start date
If the ride was firm but now feeling “bouncy,” then that would suggest something to do with the dampeners (shocks/struts).
I used to borrow a Nissan Pathfinder that had failed shocks, it led to the ride being like a boat going over waves and would take a while to finally settle.
If your dampeners are failing, they might be leaking fluids around one or more of them. You might want to take it in to a service center or mechanic you trust.
I used to borrow a Nissan Pathfinder that had failed shocks, it led to the ride being like a boat going over waves and would take a while to finally settle.
If your dampeners are failing, they might be leaking fluids around one or more of them. You might want to take it in to a service center or mechanic you trust.
Rear end feel floaty at high speeds? A bit uncomfortable?
Check the rear suspension bushings for play, may have gotten soft over the course of 15k miles, not common. Also check for leaks around the shocks.
I’ve never felt this car was great at high speeds or aggressive cornering. Floaty and unpredictable. I’ve sense swapped out the whole suspension and rear bars (Camber, Toe, Traction, and trailing arms) for lighter stronger replacements with spherical bearings. Now have a solid setup tuned to my driving style. YMMV.
Check the rear suspension bushings for play, may have gotten soft over the course of 15k miles, not common. Also check for leaks around the shocks.
I’ve never felt this car was great at high speeds or aggressive cornering. Floaty and unpredictable. I’ve sense swapped out the whole suspension and rear bars (Camber, Toe, Traction, and trailing arms) for lighter stronger replacements with spherical bearings. Now have a solid setup tuned to my driving style. YMMV.
"Bouncy" isn't specific enough. Can you describe it differently?
Bushings soft in 15k miles? That would depend on the roads the OP is driving on. I should hope bushings wouldn't go bad at 15k miles.
Ditto for a leaking shock. QC and engineering for shocks is light-years ahead of a couple of decades ago. Leaking shocks are rather rare, considering the number of them on the road.
Bushings soft in 15k miles? That would depend on the roads the OP is driving on. I should hope bushings wouldn't go bad at 15k miles.
Ditto for a leaking shock. QC and engineering for shocks is light-years ahead of a couple of decades ago. Leaking shocks are rather rare, considering the number of them on the road.
Thanks. I am in NJ. Mostly notice it on the Parkway which is fairly bumpy this time of year. It rides fine at low and high speeds on decent roads. But, going over any bump or imperfection in the road it’s unsettled, floaty. The back end hops side to side. I am open to getting an aftermarket suspension upgrade But need to find a local installer. It’s never been perfect over bumps but definitely more planted in the past than it is now.
zoomer0056
Active Member
Have you tried scheduling a Tesla service appointment? Being thst the car records a lot of data, they may be able to do an initial remote diagnostic .... but maybe not. Else you might be able to enter service mode in your car, maybe there's some info you can find there.
Art138
Member
I only have a few thousand miles on mine,but putting 295x35x21 tires on the rears and moving the 275s to fronts appears to give more stabilty on spirited turns. To date I have not noticed the swaying you mention. Is this something you did not notice when the car was new?
arvindm
Member
Tesla recommends 42 Psi on most of their vehicles. I find that is a bit too much. I think a cold Psi of 38 and 40 Psi when warmed up gives the best ride. That is just my personal preference. It does not alter the economy much at regular speeds. One thing you may want to do is you lay out fine sand in your driveway and drive over it for a full circle of your tire and note how much of the tire is in contact with the road, at 42 Psi you will see that the outer third will not even be in contact with the road. I adjust the PSI to give me at least 95% contact with the road. Just something I learnt from my dad who used to use this rule regardless of what the door jamb told him what to do! That Psi is generally 2 Psi less than what the manufacturers recommend. Sometimes it depends on the tire make as well.
I'm doing a full write up of the suspension system and installing ohlins coilovers.
The stock suspension has about 12mm of shock travel before hitting the 60mm bump stops.
The shocks have very little damping. When you hit the bump stops its adds a ton of spring energy that overwhelms the rebound transferring weight to the other side, forcing it into the bump stop rocking the car back and forth.
If you have weight in the back it reduces shock travel to almost nothing.
I cut the first 20mm of bump stop off and it helped a lot. You still have 40mm and it is much firmer.
The stock suspension has about 12mm of shock travel before hitting the 60mm bump stops.
The shocks have very little damping. When you hit the bump stops its adds a ton of spring energy that overwhelms the rebound transferring weight to the other side, forcing it into the bump stop rocking the car back and forth.
If you have weight in the back it reduces shock travel to almost nothing.
I cut the first 20mm of bump stop off and it helped a lot. You still have 40mm and it is much firmer.
Ohlins R&T with swift 8kg front and 9kg rear. I also have the stock 11/12kg springs that I will not be using.
The high speed damping is fixed by the shim stack. This is most likely what redwood adjusts to make it engage sooner.
Low speed is controlled by a needle valve and effects both compression and rebound. On the rear shock at about 25 clicks from stiff the low speed compression matches the stock damper. You can go softer than stock and still have the blow off for bigger hits.
Still working on this as I'm doing it in phases and documenting everything. I have a background in autoX and work on MTB suspensions in my free time.
This is a street setup. Comfort and control are the goals. keeping it off the bump stops maximizes both.
2023 Tesla Model Y Performance Stock 21in wheels and sub in the truck. Downsizing to 19's when I can afford it.
Swift 8/9kg. Front has 125mm and rear 110mm of spring travel before coil bind.
Rear damper length 605mm(-40), Stroke 120mm(-40), Bump stop 30mm. Total wheel travel is 138mm.
Spring total stroke is 83mm. 27mm of preload before coil bind.
Wheel to fender 410mm with 467mm at full droop (57mm). 41% sag, which is about perfect.
Rear shock uses 49mm of stroke.
You have 71mm of shock travel and 41mm of travel before the bump stop engages. 81mm of wheel compression travel.
Full bottom out gives stock 66mm of clearance.
Stock Rear: Shock 87%, spring 60% motion ratio of wheel travel.
Damper length 645mm, Stroke 160mm, Bump stop 60mm. Total wheel travel is 184mm.
Rear spring arm is 300mm to center of spring, 435mm to shock bolt and 500mm to wheel carrier.
Spring total stroke is 110mm.
Wheel to fender 405mm with 505mm at full droop (100mm).
Rear shock uses 87mm of stroke for 87% motion ratio.
You have 73mm of shock travel and 13mm of travel before the bump stop engages. 84mm of wheel compression travel.
Full bottom out gives 66mm of clearance.
The high speed damping is fixed by the shim stack. This is most likely what redwood adjusts to make it engage sooner.
Low speed is controlled by a needle valve and effects both compression and rebound. On the rear shock at about 25 clicks from stiff the low speed compression matches the stock damper. You can go softer than stock and still have the blow off for bigger hits.
Still working on this as I'm doing it in phases and documenting everything. I have a background in autoX and work on MTB suspensions in my free time.
This is a street setup. Comfort and control are the goals. keeping it off the bump stops maximizes both.
2023 Tesla Model Y Performance Stock 21in wheels and sub in the truck. Downsizing to 19's when I can afford it.
Swift 8/9kg. Front has 125mm and rear 110mm of spring travel before coil bind.
Rear damper length 605mm(-40), Stroke 120mm(-40), Bump stop 30mm. Total wheel travel is 138mm.
Spring total stroke is 83mm. 27mm of preload before coil bind.
Wheel to fender 410mm with 467mm at full droop (57mm). 41% sag, which is about perfect.
Rear shock uses 49mm of stroke.
You have 71mm of shock travel and 41mm of travel before the bump stop engages. 81mm of wheel compression travel.
Full bottom out gives stock 66mm of clearance.
Stock Rear: Shock 87%, spring 60% motion ratio of wheel travel.
Damper length 645mm, Stroke 160mm, Bump stop 60mm. Total wheel travel is 184mm.
Rear spring arm is 300mm to center of spring, 435mm to shock bolt and 500mm to wheel carrier.
Spring total stroke is 110mm.
Wheel to fender 405mm with 505mm at full droop (100mm).
Rear shock uses 87mm of stroke for 87% motion ratio.
You have 73mm of shock travel and 13mm of travel before the bump stop engages. 84mm of wheel compression travel.
Full bottom out gives 66mm of clearance.
Where in CA are you located? I have the RW GT kit and am in NorCal. My experience is entirely road track so I generally bias toward more stability and predictability vs directional change rapid acel/decel.
My ride height is about the same as you when measured from axle nut to fender. I need to check what Swift springs are on my GT kit, I'm not 100% sure but I do know they are older, since RW is no longer shipping the rears with helper springs. The motion ratio for front and rear is 70% on my kit. Interesting to see your updates!
I have not had a chance to drive this car aggressively since it's my DD, but I will be instructing again once HPDE season starts up again. I'll try to turn a few laps in the car at stock height and report back with some subjective feedback.
Gt kit should be 6/9kg.
I'm in pleasant Hill CA. East Bay area.
So far only have the rear on. Waiting on bump stop limiters to do the front and add to the rear.
Rear has 2 motion rates 1 for the shock and 1 for the spring.
Front has a different one that should be around 85% for both shock and spring.
I'm in pleasant Hill CA. East Bay area.
So far only have the rear on. Waiting on bump stop limiters to do the front and add to the rear.
Rear has 2 motion rates 1 for the shock and 1 for the spring.
Front has a different one that should be around 85% for both shock and spring.
Similar threads
