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21+ Model S/X Plaid aftermarket subwoofer help

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Vrgs13

7th Model S 21 Plaid Cyberbeast & Roadster ordered
Nov 28, 2016
90
68
USA
OK guys, so I’m sure this has been partly answered in another thread, but I cannot seem to find a straight answer. I got a 22 plaid but I’m wanting to add my Focal 10 inch with a JL 750/1HD amplifier (also have Hertz Mile 10’s and a Hertz 1000D) I also have the LC2i and a JL fix (what I plan on using) also, just a plan ole JL line out converter. Only thing I’m missing is the 14 V battery that apparently goes in between the jump post under hood and the amplifier in the rear.
No, I’m aware that Maddie has always used the XS power 14V Titan8+ RSV-S6 but the only info I can get from him is that after extensive research that’s the battery they came up with. Yes I’m aware it’s $100,000 car and I’ve already spent around $2500 on just the sub amp and wiring. but it’s hard to pull the trigger on an $900 battery. I know that sounds so, but I’m sure somebody out here has done a system and used a different battery that is equivalent to the one above or something else entirely.
If you have installed a subwoofer and your 21+ please help me along the process. I found many forms discussing but nothing with a straightforward answer so let’s make this thread go to forever everyone else who has the same question.
Do I have to buy that particular battery and there are no other options?
Where did you guys hook up? And how did you run the wires? Any pics
Where did you tap etc.?
Thanks in advance
 

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I built some of my system for 2 12" subs with a CT 700 watt mono amp but the stereo shop put the extra Titen8 20 ah 3000 watt battery that was 1000.00 in the back rear well.





He put a breaker under the hood and one at the amp so power could be disconnected for service.

Also I supplied an 80 amp breaker for the amps.

I had him expand the system to 3 Lc2is for subs mids and tweeters with schoshe level controls I installed.
I used some compact Kicker 200 watt compact mini amps for the mids and tweeters.
They have been discontinued but I have 8 of them from previous cars and a BMW EV SUV I have that has a similar system but doesn't need an extra battery.
Any small motorcycle amp would do.
SKar 1500 watt subs 125.00 each










Skar 1" Tweeters a great bargain at $22.00 on Amazon



4"DCS Pro X4 29.66 each on Amazon Shallow mids in an enclosures I made by cutting the 2 ends off an ABS white street elbow and adding a cap.



My previous 2" mids were slightly scratchy at high volume so I went 4 "






Level Controls and wireless Parking Camera



There is also an Easter Egg in the EQ

If you put the Sub and Bass all the way up on the EQ then bounce the sub level up you can switch it to Booom for more bass.
There's a few other settings but they all seem similar.



This system is totally Awesome!
Let me know if you have any questions.
 
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Thank you for the detailed reply! Where did they tap into the front? Did they go right on the jump post? Also, was that the only battery they recommended? I know this sounds crazy but I spend $1500 on a subwoofer and $1000 on an amplifier plus all the other stuff but I just cannot justify spending that much on one battery. I’ve tried on the DIY lithium forms, but nobody can seem to help me Get a battery matched up. That sucks because I saw these batteries on sale through Amazon for $600. I should have jumped on that deal right then.
 
Thank you for the detailed reply! Where did they tap into the front? Did they go right on the jump post? Also, was that the only battery they recommended? I know this sounds crazy but I spend $1500 on a subwoofer and $1000 on an amplifier plus all the other stuff but I just cannot justify spending that much on one battery. I’ve tried on the DIY lithium forms, but nobody can seem to help me Get a battery matched up. That sucks because I saw these batteries on sale through Amazon for $600. I should have jumped on that deal right then.
Probably right to the battery but I'm not sure where the tech mounted the wire. I'm seeing him on wednesday so I'll ask.

You know it's Not Cheap to be Cool 🤔

How badly do you want it :D

You buy a Plaid but want a cheap battery.
You may just have to spend the 900.00
 
Probably right to the battery but I'm not sure where the tech mounted the wire. I'm seeing him on wednesday so I'll ask.

You know it's Not Cheap to be Cool 🤔

How badly do you want it :D

You buy a Plaid but want a cheap battery.
You may just have to spend the 900.00
Yes, if you could ask him that would be awesome but I’m pretty sure its right off the jumppost then install that breaker near (from what I’ve seen).
In regards to the battery, I’ve been looking and looking to see if that thing was discounted and literally 5 minutes after my last post. Amazon had 1 left in stock for $600. Obviously I immediately ordered. I have everything. Just need to wait for that battery to get in and begin fabricating a box. I am doing a single 10 inch but I want to do it on the right side so I will remove the factory subwoofer and mold the box to fit in that area. I’ll build a face plate and make it look real nice. Any other installation tips would be greatly appreciated from anyone.
I will post progress as it comes along, but as of now I’m waiting on battery & fab up a box.
Nobody has done a full write up on these cars & aftermarket subwoofers so it looks like I’m going to be the first to do a fully detailed installation for these cars.
Next up, I will start fabricating a box. Plan on building a nice face plate that will magnetize to the box itself
 
Yes, if you could ask him that would be awesome but I’m pretty sure its right off the jumppost then install that breaker near (from what I’ve seen).
In regards to the battery, I’ve been looking and looking to see if that thing was discounted and literally 5 minutes after my last post. Amazon had 1 left in stock for $600. Obviously I immediately ordered. I have everything. Just need to wait for that battery to get in and begin fabricating a box. I am doing a single 10 inch but I want to do it on the right side so I will remove the factory subwoofer and mold the box to fit in that area. I’ll build a face plate and make it look real nice. Any other installation tips would be greatly appreciated from anyone.
I will post progress as it comes along, but as of now I’m waiting on battery & fab up a box.
Nobody has done a full write up on these cars & aftermarket subwoofers so it looks like I’m going to be the first to do a fully detailed installation for these cars.
Next up, I will start fabricating a box. Plan on building a nice face plate that will magnetize to the box itself
I posted my build here before but the stereo tech hooked up the Lc2i inputs.
I started with 1 12 dual coil Sub but the box was too big so I doubled it up.
Building my box was easy and I don't need the trunk space.
I like having the level controls to dial in my tunes as some songs have lots of bass and others not so much.
Being able to set the mids and tweeters is extra sweet.








 
I posted my build here before but the stereo tech hooked up the Lc2i inputs.
I started with 1 12 dual coil Sub but the box was too big so I doubled it up.
Building my box was easy and I don't need the trunk space.
I like having the level controls to dial in my tunes as some songs have lots of bass and others not so much.
Being able to set the mids and tweeters is extra sweet.









I posted my build here before but the stereo tech hooked up the Lc2i inputs.
I started with 1 12 dual coil Sub but the box was too big so I doubled it up.
Building my box was easy and I don't need the trunk space.
I like having the level controls to dial in my tunes as some songs have lots of bass and others not so much.
Being able to set the mids and tweeters is extra sweet.








Awesome I appreciate the additional details and links! I’ve got a full Hertz mille/Audison setup that would actually be amazing and that car, but with the cyber truck on my way me planning on getting a new plaid once these new changes finally hit production. I just don’t want to go digging that deep in the car as I might just give this one to my son, maybe in the next us I’ll throw all those amps and speakers in that thing for a full SQ set up.
I have the LC2i but I actually think I will use my JL FIX. That thing worked real good in my last Tesla much better than the LC2. You could possibly switch to that as it takes all three signals and combines then you can hook it up to a PC do a little bit of tuning you can sweep I believe it’s called gives you a lot more EQ and control but for a subwoofer, I noticed a huge difference, switching between the two
 
bruh I'm sorry I'm mostly just curious. But a plaid has 22 speakers already and sounds amazing(to me) you guys really need to add to it
I agree it sounds pretty good from factory just not enough base for my liking. I’m just adding one 10 inch subwoofer. But then again I have got over 250K in my home theater alone. Another 60 in my living room and 40K on SQ system in my tundra. Audio is my passion. we all have our vices
 
bruh I'm sorry I'm mostly just curious. But a plaid has 22 speakers already and sounds amazing(to me) you guys really need to add to it
Wants and needs are different things.
Like OP It's a hobby of mine.
I've been building car stereos for the last 25 years
Not into home stereos any more as my wife has some hearing sensitivity and I kinda lost interest in movies but I like to crank up tunes in my cars to the level of an amusement park ride.
Supercar needs Super Stereo 🤪
I had 5000 watts rms in my Jeep Trackhawk that got written off.
The compression was something to behold.
Used an Ampro Pac Harness



3200 watt rms sub amp



EVs can't run that kind of power but since it takes 10 times as much power to double the volume 2000 watts rms is still pretty close to the amusement park level.
You don't need 22 dinky speakers.
Adding 6 more with subs mids and tweeters and 1000-1200 watts rms is a big improvement over the 985 watts oem.
 
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Ok guys the battery will be in tomorrow and I ordered a couple relays (same ones Matt Schaeffer used in his videos)
Now the only question I have is where on earth do I tap the 12V (15.5V) To the battery located in the trunk area? I know exactly where to get a switched 12 V to the Amazon I need to know everyone is tapping to charge up there battery in the rear?
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I will be using the JL Audio FIX 82 for my “line output converter”. Used it in a past Tesla and it worked great! Sounded so much better than the LC2 (can’t upload photos as it’s saying there’s a server)
 
For those who are wanting to do a full system and bypass the factory amplifier completely, also have DSP control, and full RCA outputs you can buy the module, but you must remove the factory amplifier so if you go down this route, you will be installing additional amplifiers for mids and highs.
but it’s a nice plug-in place solution but just came out and will work with S and X (Turtle 3&Y as well).
It’s the Axxess AXDSPX-TES1
Who is the instructions for anyone interested

 
Ok guys the battery will be in tomorrow and I ordered a couple relays (same ones Matt Schaeffer used in his videos)
Now the only question I have is where on earth do I tap the 12V (15.5V) To the battery located in the trunk area? I know exactly where to get a switched 12 V to the Amazon I need to know everyone is tapping to charge up there battery in the rear?
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You mean breakers not relays?
I'll check tomorrow where car audio hooked to the Tesla 15.5 v as it's time to refill the ww bottle.

 
You mean breakers not relays?
I'll check tomorrow where car audio hooked to the Tesla 15.5 v as it's time to refill the ww bottle.

Yes, breakers lol not really sure where I got relays from. Yes if you could please check and see where they tapped that would be awesome! Also, if you could take note or pictures if you see anything else that they would have installed up there. Thanks!
 
Is the JL Audio FIX 82 really worth it's 400.00 price?
It only has 1 rca output
When I first built my Jeep system I used one LC2i with inputs from the full range back door speakers for the subs and the door speakers and tweeters.
Bass output rcas for subs and full range outputs for the doors and tweeters.
It was ok but the Ampro Pac Harness I got later was a lot better.
Here in the Plaid I'm adding on top of the oem Tesla system which is pretty good other than lacking enough bass.
I have 3 LC2is one for subs, mids and tweeters and it's a big improvement over the oem system.
The sub is inputted off the 8" door subs.
The mids and tweeters off the A Pillar speakers.
Mids and tweeters sound great and the sub is pretty good but it depends on the quality of the sound from the Tesla streaming.
Some tunes have lots of bass others not so much.
It's great having the Schoshe level controls on the console right at my fingertips.


Do you think it would be worthwhile to use an LC5i to combine the door subs and the rear oem subwoofer for a signal and then disconnect the rear subwoofer?
Or use an JL Audio FIX 82 just for the subs?

My dual 12 box is about 3 cu/ft which translates into a tuned 40 hz
1.25 to 1.75 cu/ft is recommended per 12" sub.
 
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