Tesla Model S 2018 aftermarket base audio speaker upgrade

[Luis Oliveira]

Hello everybody,

I've been reading online back and forth about this and I need some help,

I know there are a lot of audio pros out there, and I'm not an audiophile per say, I just can't afford to go into a hardcore amped installation, those are around 2000 or 3000€, and there is no way I can afford to go that route,

However I would like to improve somewhat the stock speakers of my Tesla Model S 2018 with base audio, I've been doing some research for available and affordable options and I have some questions:

1 - I've seen the various recommendations of the Light Harmonic gen3 speakers, I've even seen some YouTube videos on this, and there is not doubt in my mind that their solution is the most elegant, it's just a swap, plug and play, but for me they have two problems, they are expensive, for 4 speakers it's 1200 dollars, plus I live in Europe, I would have today an extra 30% in tax fees. Also these are only 1.2 ohm of impedance, which is impressive since the stock Tesla speakers are 2ohm.

2 - I've seen a person on YouTube called Andrew, that made an awesome and simple video on a speaker swap he did on his model S, he got infinity kappa 62IX speakers, which are way more affordable, 2 way speakers and the adaptation of the speakers is not that hard in my opinion, I could do that my self, the only thing that has me hesitant is technically they are 2.7 ohm of impedance, not 2 ohm like the stock Tesla speakers, Is there a risk of overloading and damaging the 200w stock amp of the Tesla MCU2?

3 - Is there a 3 way speaker with 2ohm impedance? From what I've read they have better separation and would sound better, however I haven't found any in 2ohm, maybe technically it's not possible to make it, I've only seen 4ohm, and for my case I would need an amp.

4 - Lastly, I saw something pretty interesting product from JBL, called JBL BASSPRO GO, it's a bluetooth 100W subwoofer, you can put in your car and it also doubles as a bluetooth speaker with a battery. This for me seems very interesting, because it seems that you don't need to make a big crazy installation, it's not very power hungry, you can feed it with 12V. For me it would solve that lack of bass in the model s, that has nice spacious trunk and it wouldn't require to dismantle half of the car to make it work. Has anybody installed this in their Tesla? Apparently we could tap the signal from a rear door speaker for example, run the wire to the trunk for signal, run another wire for the 12V power, and that would be it.

Sorry for the long post, I would love some feedback on my thinking,

Thanks in advance,
Luis

 

[EVRider-FL]

When was your Model S built? The premium sound system became a standard feature in mid-2018.

 

[Luis Oliveira]

When was your Model S built? The premium sound system became a standard feature in mid-2018.

Hello,
My Tesla Model S is from May of 2018, It doesn't have premium sound, there is no subwoofer, and also it says so in the Tesla app that I have no audio package.

 

[EVRider-FL]

Hello,
My Tesla Model S is from May of 2018, It doesn't have premium sound, there is no subwoofer, and also it says so in the Tesla app that I have no audio package.

Wasn’t doubting what you said, just curious about the timing. Apparently your car was built just a little too early.

My previous Model S was a late 2018 model, which did have the premium sound package. My first Tesla was a 2016 Model S without the premium package, and to be honest I didn’t really miss it. Do you have access to another Tesla with upgraded audio so you can make sure the difference is worthwhile (to you) before doing the upgrade?

 

[Luis Oliveira]

Wasn’t doubting what you said, just curious about the timing. Apparently your car was built just a little too early.

My previous Model S was a late 2018 model, which did have the premium sound package. My first Tesla was a 2016 Model S without the premium package, and to be honest I didn’t really miss it. Do you have access to another Tesla with upgraded audio so you can make sure the difference is worthwhile (to you) before doing the upgrade?

Well my goal isn’t to imitate or put in a system like the UHFS from Tesla.

To get a system like Tesla UHFS, I already consulted a professional person that does these sort of installations, you pretty much have to rip out the whole dash and frunk of the car, so you can add a dsp amplifier, connect it to the LP battery to feed it, and then connect it to the MCU, so then with the amp installed you can power speakers with a bunch of watts and without impedance limitations. That is the right way to do it.

But like I started my main post, this is expensive, 2000 or 3000€ minimum. And all the respect for the people that go that route.

But for me it’s just overkill, I would like to moderately improve the quality of system as easily as possible for a regular person, by swapping the door speakers, and if it’s easy enough a self amped low power subwoofer, something moderate sized, it doesn’t have to be something enormous because then for the back passengers it just becomes unpleasant, in my opinion.

 

[Excaliber]

NVX makes a sub box and kit

Amazon.com

 

[Luis Oliveira]

NVX makes a sub box and kit

Amazon.com

I am aware of this kit, but this requires massive dismantling for installation.
Like I've stated above, I was searching for different solutions to avoid taking apart half of the car.
Seems nobody has gone soft on this, either they go full in, or they just live with it stock. Strange nobody hasn't tried a less "invasive" and more simple solution.

 

[Excaliber]

I am aware of this kit, but this requires massive dismantling for installation.
Like I've stated above, I was searching for different solutions to avoid taking apart half of the car.
Seems nobody has gone soft on this, either they go full in, or they just live with it stock. Strange nobody hasn't tried a less "invasive" and more simple solution.

Well it's not cheap to be cool
I added subs, midranges and tweeters with level controls to my Model S Plaid and it didn't involve some massive dismantling of the car.
It did require a small lithium battery in the rear tire well.
The Tesla was easy to work on vs my tightly built BMW iX M60 EV SUV.
You should find a local car stereo store and see what they say.

 

[Luis Oliveira]

Well it's not cheap to be cool
I added subs, midranges and tweeters with level controls to my Model S Plaid and it didn't involve some massive dismantling of the car.
It did require a small lithium battery in the rear tire well.
The Tesla was easy to work on vs my tightly built BMW iX M60 EV SUV.
You should find a local car stereo store and see what they say.

My god! You have some next level guts sir! Respect

 

[bobbob160@gmai]

I did a cheap upgrade as well by swapping stock front door speakers with Infinity PR6512IS which are also 2.7ohm. Modifying the stock speaker mounts was easy although intimidating destroying the factory speakers and keeping the plastic base.

In addition, I tapped off the front speaker wires and ran them to the sub-trunk where I installed an amp (not sure of the specs). I also used an 8" boxed subwoofer from 2003-2006 Nissan Sentra (example 2003 04 05 2006 Nissan Sentra Subwoofer SPEAKER OEM 28170-6Z900 ROCKFORD FOSGATE | eBay). It fits nicely in the well on the right side. I also added two additional speakers on the hatch where the speaker blanks are. I used these speakers with some trimming of the plastic framework under the fabric. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078NFBB87

 

[Excaliber]

My god! You have some next level guts sir! Respect

Thanks!
No Guts No Glory
Since these electric cars don't have Ampro PAC harnesses available to get your RCAs for aftermarket amps you have to use what's called a line convertor that takes the hot speaker wires and converts them into RCA outputs.
I like using the 80.00 AudioControl LC2i (Line Convertor 2 inputs) over the basic 20.00 non powered ones.


1 per subs, 1 per mids and 1 per tweeters.

Subs and Tweeters LC2is








Midrange LC2i and small Kicker amps and a 700 watt rms Mono Sub amp.



Before adding midranges sub and tweeter amps



I gave my car audio tech the Tesla Plaid stereo wiring diagram and he did some research and talked to an associate who had done many Teslas

Tesla Plaids have small 15.5v batteries so he said we had to add an extra lithium battery to not overload the oem.
I think there's also a reducer to bring the 15.5v down to the 12-14.4v typical system.
He ran a 4 gauge wire from the Tesla battery to the back new battery and added breakers so it could be turned off for service.


I built my own sub box which for me was being Mr Handicraft was easy stuff.
I've built many over the top stereos for my cars in the last 20 years.
It's a hobby I like to do just for fun and have a stero that sounds like an amusement park ride when you crank it up.
Started with 1 sub but decided to go with 2 for the size of the box.











I would again recommend you go visit a good car stereo shop and see what they can do for you.

Sub kit installed would be about 900-1000.00 $

 

[Luis Oliveira]

I did a cheap upgrade as well by swapping stock front door speakers with Infinity PR6512IS which are also 2.7ohm. Modifying the stock speaker mounts was easy although intimidating destroying the factory speakers and keeping the plastic base.

In addition, I tapped off the front speaker wires and ran them to the sub-trunk where I installed an amp (not sure of the specs). I also used an 8" boxed subwoofer from 2003-2006 Nissan Sentra (example 2003 04 05 2006 Nissan Sentra Subwoofer SPEAKER OEM 28170-6Z900 ROCKFORD FOSGATE | eBay). It fits nicely in the well on the right side. I also added two additional speakers on the hatch where the speaker blanks are. I used these speakers with some trimming of the plastic framework under the fabric. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078NFBB87

With your door speaker swap for the infinity‘s, 2.7 ohm, did you more bass than the stock ones? I’m assuming you only use the amp for the subwoofer, did you get power for the amp from the LP battery from the front of the car?

 

[bobbob160@gmai]

With your door speaker swap for the infinity‘s, 2.7 ohm, did you more bass than the stock ones? I’m assuming you only use the amp for the subwoofer, did you get power for the amp from the LP battery from the front of the car?

Yes, the Infinitys in the door produced more bass than stock. Amp powers subwoofer and rear-hatch speakers (with a mid-range crossofer). The amp uses two power sources, one switched, the other unswitched. The switched power comes from the fuse box in the passenger kick panel. I used a fuse-tap to tap of an existing circuit. As for the unswitched power, I tapped into the hot wire going to the hatch lift motor. Should be fine as long as I am not full blast and opening the hatch at the same time..LOL.

 

[Luis Oliveira]

Has anyone tried these out?

AudioCircle IQ-X6.5RS 16,5cm 2-Wege Koax-Lautsprecher 2 Ohm für Tesla Model S

They are from a German company and it’s plug and play like the light harmonic’s.

The price seems reasonable, but don’t know if they are any good…

Can somebody give some feedback on these?

 

[julegave]

I'm glad to see I'm not the only one eager to upgrade their Tesla sound system. I've got a December 2017 Model S with the base audio and am ready to take it to the next level.

Here's My Plan:

• I'm planning to add the missing speakers in the front dash and in the trunk. These upgrades are crucial for the sound I'm aiming for. (Planning on using four Audison AV 3' mid-range speakers with a custom 3d printed bracket to fit into the mounting points).
• A subwoofer is definitely on the list. I need that deep, quality bass to complete the experience (planning on using the Audison APBX 8 AS2).
• I'm inspired by a setup I found in this video (
  ), which I plan to emulate with a few personal tweaks. The Forza 12-channel DSP amplifier seems like a perfect fit (recommended by a local car audio shop), and I'm also opting for the same subwoofer featured in the video (Audison APBX 8 AS2).

My Main Uncertainties:

1. DSP Placement: I want everything to look as stock as possible. Is there enough room to place the DSP amplifier discreetly, maybe on the front left side by the driver (similar to where the premium amplifier is in models with the premium audio system)?
2. Power Connection (12V): Where should I connect to the 12V? Is there a convenient internal spot, or do I need to run a new cable from the battery (with appropriate fusing)?
3. Signal Connection: How do I best hook up and hijack the signal from the MCU? Is there a particular wiring or method that works best for this?
   (I know i have to hijack the audio signals coming from the MCU into the forza amplifier).
4. General Wiring Queries: Any advice on managing the wiring for this setup efficiently and discreetly?

I'm pretty set on most aspects of this upgrade, but these points are where I could really use your collective wisdom. Any tips, especially regarding the wiring and placement challenges, would be hugely appreciated. Looking forward to making this upgrade a reality and sharing the results!

Thanks in advance for your help and insights!

also, this link gives a lot of good info:

Audio Systems for the Tesla Model S and Model X – TeslaTap

teslatap.com

 

[16MX]

Regarding AudioCircle (IQ – LINE - Audiocircle).
In our German Tesla forum, there are 2 guys which have installed them and these guys are happy.
There are also pics: Lautsprecher Model S defekt

Note they don't sell directly, MaxxCount is one of their sellers.

 

[16MX]

Since I own a MX, I've just ordered the rear speakers at MaxxCount.de (they don't have the front speakers). Currently they offer some 50% discount on the MS rear speakers as well.
You can get the front speakers at the regular price at masori.de and the budle it with a free sound deadening kit (worth 50+€).

Just make sure to order the 6.2 version, not the 6.5 version!

I guess I'll install it in around 2-3 weeks from now.

 

[Barkley]

Luis, the members on this site have been extremely helpful, and helped me when i was in your shoes, so i know what you're going through. I too wanted a not-so-expensive upgrade to my base audio and im happy with the current boom boom in my zoom zoom. Here's my recommendation, based on my experience. I would start off with a subwoofer, i went with the NVX. Next, before replacing your front door speakers, i would add sound deadening material to the door panels. At that point, you may be okay with the sound quality. If not, then you can move on to replacing the front door speakers. I have the light harmonic front door speakers, and they're just ok in my opinion. From what ive been told by the pros, in order to achieve better results from the front door speakers, i would have to add an amp and better door speakers, maybe something like focals. A member on this site warned me about how easily one can get carried away with the sound deadening material, and it's true! Ive done all of my doors, and hatch, lol. Good luck!

 

[Goldswing]

Hi Luis, same boat as you. Even though they aren't the cheapest option, I plan on going with the Light Harmonics, due to the extreme ease of plug and play, but only in the front. Other members and Youtubers have said they did not feel it was worth it to switch out the rears. That saves you $600, and the bigger magnet and better quality will increase bass response. I would suggest starting there and determining if you need/want more! Good Luck!

 

[maximizese]

Hi Luis, same boat as you. Even though they aren't the cheapest option, I plan on going with the Light Harmonics, due to the extreme ease of plug and play, but only in the front. Other members and Youtubers have said they did not feel it was worth it to switch out the rears. That saves you $600, and the bigger magnet and better quality will increase bass response. I would suggest starting there and determining if you need/want more! Good Luck!

I'm sure if folks forego the rear speaker upgrade because the person is usually driving and so improvements to sound stage and imaging in the front is more noticeable than fill at the rear doors, or if its the because the signal processing from the MCU just does not us the full range of sound for the rear channels. I'm deciding between a Reus System or a custom system for my base 2013. I'd like to add 3-way component speakers to the front (filling in the 3" speaker holes under the dash top), class D amp, and small sub. Not sure if I should got active with a 6-channel amp for the front or go passive with the supplied crossovers and use a 4-channel amp to power the fronts and bridge the other 2 channels for the sub. I'd love to attend a local Tesla meetup to compare the Reus vs a custom system before I commit.