I installed a subwoofer and amp and now I am having the error code “Electrical System is unable to support all features” & “Electrical system backup power is unavailable”.
I installed this at a shop, and expressed how I was worried about the error code or else I would have done the install myself. They said, all I need was a hi low filter, which turns out was the LOC. I assumed they knew what they were doing. They had great reviews on yelp. Wanted to charge me 500 dollars for install only, worked them down to 400. Brought my own equipment. Had this error code twice.
Current equipment on 2019 model 3 SR+:
kicker cxa 1200.1 (1200rms)
Idmax 12 inch 2 ohms 1,000rms in sealed box
Audiocontrol L2i pro
First time they tapped into car speakers and and ran audio signal sense not gto.
Got the error code, brought it into Tesla to fix this and other issues(removed the sub and amp was hidden so they didn’t see the system). They replaced my battery. Next day got my car back after hours, it still had the code. I’m pretty sure the code was cleared and fixed, then came back due to the sound system.
Brought back in my car to the stereo shop and explained to them the issue. They said they never ran into this before. The worked on another model 3 and it was fine. Not sure how many they worked on. They disconnected all the equipment and told me to see if the code comes back(since I knew how to reset the code, by disconnecting both batteries, dc and 12v), then if there is no code next day, bring back the car and they will tap into a accessory wire. They tapped into the ignition wire. And now the code came back after a few hours.
I did hours of research, some of the information is confusing. Some was relevant but not sure what direction I could go.
First, is there an easy fix for this such as tapping another accessory wire such as a usb wire instead of the “ignition” wire they used. Or even the driver seat wire(don’t know what it’s called). If I go this route, should we leave it as audio signal sense, or gto?
I heard some people using a switch to turn off their LOC manually every time. Will this fix my issue if I can remember to turn off the LOC, assuming the LOC turns on the amp, I would only need a switch for the LOC and not the amp.
If these options won’t work, what is my cheapest route I can go that will fix my issue?
I saw running a separate battery with isolator which some guy had that was 800-1000 for just that battery. I don’t want to spend 1,000 on another battery. Is there a cheaper battery I could use if I have to go this route? Closer to 100?
I also saw relay and resistor route. I think this route might be fairly cheap? Like under 100? I however have no idea how to do this method.
I have installed a sub and amp many years ago and have a decent amount of handy man experience. If someone has good instructions, I can probably follow it.
Please let me know if there’s an easy fix here, or next best option to fix this. I live in the Bay Area, so if there’s a shop that can help me that’s a reasonable price, that will work too.
I installed this at a shop, and expressed how I was worried about the error code or else I would have done the install myself. They said, all I need was a hi low filter, which turns out was the LOC. I assumed they knew what they were doing. They had great reviews on yelp. Wanted to charge me 500 dollars for install only, worked them down to 400. Brought my own equipment. Had this error code twice.
Current equipment on 2019 model 3 SR+:
kicker cxa 1200.1 (1200rms)
Idmax 12 inch 2 ohms 1,000rms in sealed box
Audiocontrol L2i pro
First time they tapped into car speakers and and ran audio signal sense not gto.
Got the error code, brought it into Tesla to fix this and other issues(removed the sub and amp was hidden so they didn’t see the system). They replaced my battery. Next day got my car back after hours, it still had the code. I’m pretty sure the code was cleared and fixed, then came back due to the sound system.
Brought back in my car to the stereo shop and explained to them the issue. They said they never ran into this before. The worked on another model 3 and it was fine. Not sure how many they worked on. They disconnected all the equipment and told me to see if the code comes back(since I knew how to reset the code, by disconnecting both batteries, dc and 12v), then if there is no code next day, bring back the car and they will tap into a accessory wire. They tapped into the ignition wire. And now the code came back after a few hours.
I did hours of research, some of the information is confusing. Some was relevant but not sure what direction I could go.
First, is there an easy fix for this such as tapping another accessory wire such as a usb wire instead of the “ignition” wire they used. Or even the driver seat wire(don’t know what it’s called). If I go this route, should we leave it as audio signal sense, or gto?
I heard some people using a switch to turn off their LOC manually every time. Will this fix my issue if I can remember to turn off the LOC, assuming the LOC turns on the amp, I would only need a switch for the LOC and not the amp.
If these options won’t work, what is my cheapest route I can go that will fix my issue?
I saw running a separate battery with isolator which some guy had that was 800-1000 for just that battery. I don’t want to spend 1,000 on another battery. Is there a cheaper battery I could use if I have to go this route? Closer to 100?
I also saw relay and resistor route. I think this route might be fairly cheap? Like under 100? I however have no idea how to do this method.
I have installed a sub and amp many years ago and have a decent amount of handy man experience. If someone has good instructions, I can probably follow it.
Please let me know if there’s an easy fix here, or next best option to fix this. I live in the Bay Area, so if there’s a shop that can help me that’s a reasonable price, that will work too.
lmao. Here is my matching TMC post if you need it:
