2014 Model S P85 buying advice

[Xenoilphobe]

Unless you take the car on road trips, charging costs never come into play. It's just so convenient (and cheap here in OK) to charge at home (if possible for you) that I never use our local superchargers. On the other hand, this is a fun road trip car!

To your point, on average I only use 8% per month on superchargers and I travel a lot between 3 properties, one mountain, one metro and one beach (all have HPWC's) that are all about 300 miles apart. I get free charging at home (solar) and free charging at work and free charging on the SC... so really haven't paid anything for the last 300K miles.

 

[Xenoilphobe]

Is there anyway to tell the warranty info? Looks like it was sold by Tesla as used in 2020 with 40k miles on it. Did they have a 4 year 100k warranty on used back then?

Warranty info is also on screen and in the app, second tab over from the specs tab.

 

[henderrj]

I can't remember when they went from a four-year to a one-year used warranty. If you go to the big screen and hit the control button on the bottom left, you should be able to go into vehicle and look at all of the parameters. If anyone has the app login available to them, you can also see it on that. The most important thing is that it's not a salvage title, then none of that makes any difference. Note that I upgraded to an MCU 2 sometime ago, (in astonishingly a good deal) so I don't quite remember if it looks the same on the old screen. Also a Google search of the full Vin is sometimes useful.

 

[crazy150]

I can't remember when they went from a four-year to a one-year used warranty. If you go to the big screen and hit the control button on the bottom left, you should be able to go into vehicle and look at all of the parameters. If anyone has the app login available to them, you can also see it on that. The most important thing is that it's not a salvage title, then none of that makes any difference. Note that I upgraded to an MCU 2 sometime ago, (in astonishingly a good deal) so I don't quite remember if it looks the same on the old screen. Also a Google search of the full Vin is sometimes useful.

Thanks. Yes the ViN search turned up that it was sold by Tesla used so that was useful. Dealer gave me the carfax so title is clean title. I’m going to go check it out tomorrow so thanks for the info on the MCU.

 

[crazy150]

download the Tesla APP or have the owner show you the specs and warranty section at the bottom of your mobile app. also you can go into the screen and look up the specs.

Thanks. Sales guy didn’t have the app/account info. Is that going to be an issue if I buy the car?

 

[Xenoilphobe]

Thanks. Sales guy didn’t have the app/account info. Is that going to be an issue if I buy the car?

access the data on the MCU screen. Have him take a picture and send it to you. no issue with the account. Tesla controls the screen access and app access. once you buy the car you can register it in your name on a new Tesla account.

 

[HenryT]

Thanks. Sales guy didn’t have the app/account info. Is that going to be an issue if I buy the car?

It shouldn't do, no.

When I bought my 2015 70D the dealer I bought it from was in the same position. You can get the car onto the app after you have the papers.

 

[Xenoilphobe]

You can also provide the vin # to Telsa and they could provide the warranty data.

 

[No CO2]

@crazy150
On the drive unit, I would have the speed sensor checked for coolant leak. That way, you know if you will need to replace the drive unit.
IMO, if the speed sensor has coolant on it, I would either negotiate a $5,000 to $8,000 discount, or pass on this car.
I am currently getting my drive unit rebuilt at QC Charge in Vista, CA, due to coolant on the speed sensor.
Also, I don't want to hijack this thread into an "LDU coolant leak" thread, but a potential buyer of an Large Drive Unit (LDU) car should be aware of this simple check. I wish I would have known prior to buying my car. I found out about the coolant leak issue two years after purchase.
Brian

 

[crazy150]

@crazy150
On the drive unit, I would have the speed sensor checked for coolant leak. That way, you know if you will need to replace the drive unit.
IMO, if the speed sensor has coolant on it, I would either negotiate a $5,000 to $8,000 discount, or pass on this car.
I am currently getting my drive unit rebuilt at QC Charge in Vista, CA, due to coolant on the speed sensor.
Also, I don't want to hijack this thread into an "LDU coolant leak" thread, but a potential buyer of an Large Drive Unit (LDU) car should be aware of this simple check. I wish I would have known prior to buying my car. I found out about the coolant leak issue two years after purchase.
Brian

Thanks. Is there any easy way to check for this leak?

 

[No CO2]

Check for coolant leak in LDU's

 

[GammaDelta]

How about 2015 models still under warranty for the LDU coolant leak? Any issues with Tesla changing these?
I am also in the process of purchasing an older Model S - late build 2015 P90D with the LDU. Clear title and unlimited mile warranty until 12/23. I was thinking the battery and drive unit are covered for a year of driving and would be a fun car for commutes.

 

[howardc64]

How about 2015 models still under warranty for the LDU coolant leak? Any issues with Tesla changing these?
I am also in the process of purchasing an older Model S - late build 2015 P90D with the LDU. Clear title and unlimited mile warranty until 12/23. I was thinking the battery and drive unit are covered for a year of driving and would be a fun car for commutes.

No coolant leak design improvement we've seen in a handful of documented LDUs revisions in the DIY LDU rebuild community in my signature link. Its a challenging problem... preventing very thin coolant leaking past a seal on high RPM shaft.

You can check speed sensor monthly for leak for a year and hope Tesla replace LDU if leak occurs. Then get a few more years. Mine lasted 5 year 30k miles but leak probably started more than a year before discovery. Leak was in progress on causing collateral damage but didn't occur yet. Maybe I could have gotten another year before leak damaged electronics. Leak seem to be time based rather than mileage. From the leaked LDUs the DIY group have studied, we see big driven mileage differences but probably all at 4-5 year mark.

 

[GammaDelta]

No coolant leak design improvement we've seen in a handful of documented LDUs revisions in the DIY LDU rebuild community in my signature link. Its a challenging problem... preventing very thin coolant leaking past a seal on high RPM shaft.

You can check speed sensor monthly for leak for a year and hope Tesla replace LDU if leak occurs. Then get a few more years. Mine lasted 5 year 30k miles but leak probably started more than a year before discovery. Leak was in progress on causing collateral damage but didn't occur yet. Maybe I could have gotten another year before leak damaged electronics. Leak seem to be time based rather than mileage. From the leaked LDUs the DIY group have studied, we see big driven mileage differences but probably all at 4-5 year mark.

Good to know. I have the rear bumper off now so I will check the speed sensor. What have people said to Tesla to get the LDU replaced with it just leaking coolant into the drive unit?
Sounds like the viscosity of the coolant + real life tolerances + inherently bad design. I wonder if a higher concentration (70% HOAT + 30% water) would decrease or increase the rate of leaking past the seal.

 

[howardc64]

Good to know. I have the rear bumper off now so I will check the speed sensor. What have people said to Tesla to get the LDU replaced with it just leaking coolant into the drive unit?
Sounds like the viscosity of the coolant + real life tolerances + inherently bad design. I wonder if a higher concentration (70% HOAT + 30% water) would decrease or increase the rate of leaking past the seal.

Probably YMMV at SCs for LDU replacement from sensor leak evidence.

The openinverter forum thread links in my LDU rebuild site has a long discussion on seal design. We’ve studied all kinds of seal materials and designs. Mate shafts requirements and waterless coolant has been mentioned but yet tried.

Better design is more rare earth magnet in rotor and less power requirement (dual motors, M3, most other EV) which enables more robust thicker viscosity oil cooling. I think only LDU and Etron went with coolant direct cooling. Etron used very advanced face seal along with leak drain passages. But Etron still had coolant leak collateral damage but not much detailed studies available on failure mechanism.

Anyhow if want to see design trade offs (by techies but definitely not seal or material experts) check out that thread.