A permit (PZ 22-16) was granted in Novemebr 2022 for a 2600 ft drive through and retail building and a small parking lot addition to the TA truck stop at 327 ruby rd. In the February 2024 meeting minutes the applicant submitted a slight change to the layout. In the meeting minutes the mention they have a lease with Tesla for 16 chargers in the new lot. As of this month they have started site excavation.

Hopefully the supercharger shakeup doesn’t ruin this one, it fills a hole between Vernon and Sturbridge. Now if we can just get one in Killingly .

Hello!

I've heard from my neighbors that there are people around my area stealing "parts" of electric vehicles.
For reference, I park in my house, behind a gate, but no garage.

Last night, when I parked, the gate was open and about to close. I saw a guy in a car who noticed the open gate, and then pulled the reverse to check.
As soon as he noticed me, he continued going forward, but then he went around the house to check again.

I've called the police to let them know.

So my question is: what's the best safety measure in this situation?

I will leave of course sentry mode on, but I'm curious to know if there is a way for ill-intentioned people to steal components without triggering the alarm.
I suspect, if they unplug the 12V battery when sentry mode is on, alarm should trigger, right?

Is there something that I'm missing, or maybe, what would you do in this situation?

Thanks a lot for your time!

Hi everyone,

I'm planning to purchase a couple of used Teslas and could really use some guidance on a few concerns I have:

1. Supercharger Access: I know that any Model S with the 40kWh battery is blocked from using Tesla Superchargers. However, I'm uncertain about other models and configurations. Is there a reliable way to determine if a specific Tesla is blocked from Supercharger access? Any tips or resources would be greatly appreciated.

2. Battery Information: One of the Teslas I'm considering mentions in the description that it is “missing the battery.” The seller doesn't know which battery this refers to; it's simply what they were told when they received the car. How can I determine whether this is referring to the 12V battery or the main drive battery? (The screens all turn on and the center screen says it is a p85, my understanding is that would not happen if the drive battery was missing. I was also told that the 12V runs the screen so I am lost on this one)

3. VIN Information: If I have the VIN for the vehicles, would contacting Tesla directly provide any useful information (such as possibly the answer to my questions previous)? I'm specifically wondering if Tesla can give me a detailed history or status report on the car, and if so, what is the best way to request this information from Tesla?

Any advice, resources, or personal experiences you could share would be incredibly helpful. Thanks in advance for your help!

Best regards,
The Mad Mechanic Mike

Hai! Nieuwe Tesla gebruiker hier! Afgelopen weken heb ik mijn M S uit 2018 leren kennen en alle functies redelijk onder de knie gekregen. Mede dankzij dit forum! Er is alleen 1 ding waar ik de vinger maar niet op kan leggen.

Het treedt op als ik net een kruising / stoplicht voorbij ben en de twee rijstroken door middel van een verdrijvingsvlak worden teruggebracht tot 1 rijstrook. Mijn Tesla laat dan een dubbele beep horen. Geen keiharde nare waarschuwing maar vergelijkbaar met zo'n "gordels vast" waarschuwing in het vliegtuig. Ploenploeng.

Voor de duidelijkheid, ik rij dan dus al op de rijstrook die overblijft en ik hoef niet meer in te voegen. Het treedt ook op als er geen enkele andere weggebruiker om me heen is. Ik heb alle lane assist achtige hulpsystemen uitgezet maar deze waarschuwing blijft maar komen. En ik vind 'm best overbodig aangezien er geen enkel gevaar dreigt. De muziek / radio gaat ook zachter op dat moment en dat is best storend.

Het zal vast een beginnersvraag zijn, maar het rare is dat ik het probleem en / of antwoord nog nergens heb kunnen vinden bij mede Tesla gebruikers. Heeft iemand anders dit misschien ook wel eens gehad. En is er een mogelijkheid om het uit te zetten?

as the title says really.

just over 6 months ago took the ModelS into service for a new front drive unit after one of their techs confirmed it was faulty (had the issue for 30K miles but Tesla refused to accept it on earlier visits). The thing with that visit was that Tesla arranged it when the part came in. As such I literally could not communicate with them in any way whatsoever, as even in-app messaging was not available as it was not me that arranged the appointment.
What an absolute farce. I remain infuriated that I had previously instructed them to leave the faulty air suspension strut in the vehicle that I was also getting replaced at the same time, but because I couldn't communicate with them this got lost. They also replaced the two scroll wheels - with ones that didn't work properly, I assumed (incorrectly now it seems) that it was software so waited for a few releases but they remain faulty. I literally did not have a single communication during that service and whilst Tesla may be proud of that achievement, it was so detestable an experience I highly doubt I will ever purchase another Tesla. I certainly don't recommend them to anyone these days.

The cars may be fundamentally good (still nothing I would replace the Model S with?!), but the Company is plain abusive of it's relationship with its customers which to anyone rational is just plain self-defeating.

To the present; Don't use the car so much these days, but when the FDU started playing up again, apart from sounding like an old washing machine since it was fitted, it now has a similar issue with vibration and the differential (is this a common trait with these?) I thought I'd get it back into service to get it sorted, together with replacing the scroll wheels again and sorting a clunk in the rear suspension.

Now it seems they won't even book an appointment unless I approve their costs.

The car is under extended Tesla warranty, even so I am being asked to pre-approve £550+ worth of costs that Tesla can charge me irrespective of what actually transpires before I can even get an appointment. I cannot attempt to communicate with them in any way whatsoever (even if I could, I expect it would be pointless).

That's just disgusting.

With Tesla doing away with the wheel nag using the in cabin camera
I wonder if older Teslas can retrofit the newer in cabin camera that has the IR emitters.
According to the service manual it seems like a simple swap
That is if the connections are all the same
Would be worth while to swap for no wheel nag.
Any thoughts on this

This is all new to me as a newbie Tesla owner of a model 3, it’s dated 2022 and done over 14800 miles so far.
The car will be 2 years old this coming September 2024, have checked history in app but nothing is showing.
So they say 2 year check of brakes plus cabin filters, I’m in the UK and will use the Northampton service centre centre so they can look and check over the car etc while doing the work required.
As anyone done this and what kind of costs are expected, Cheevely Ev do mobile work and does a lot more jobs on the car for the same cost.
Just a little confused what is best, as still under warranty until September 2026

ev days are gone...

I use the term Black Start from my old Power Generation Station engineering days....it refers to a Power Plant's ability (or lack thereof) to initiate operation without grid power.

My Tesla generation system has been in operation for a year now, during which we've had 29 grid power interruptions. Two of those were noticeable without referring to the app, the second of which was within the last hour.

This time, after the noticeable power interruption, the Powerwalls took over but solar production ceased. The app periodically showed .2 or .3 kw Solar, but mostly zero. After about 15 minutes, the app informed me that grid reconnection was underway. This was a process I had not seen previously - in the past I've been looking at the app when grid power resumed, and the red X simply disappeared. Of course, in the past solar production was not interrupted either. That reconnection process took another 10 minutes or so, long enough for me to check my grid operator's app which assured me that my grid power was on. I guess the Gateway was booting up, and solar production resumed.

I think this may have been the lack of Black Start capability I've heard about. If grid power had not resumed, my system may not have resumed solar generation, and after battery depletion we would have lost power to the house. Can anyone with knowledge about this confirm? Please keep in mind that in my Power Engineering career I was a piping engineer, not an electrical engineer..... thanks

Edit:
My Powerwalls were at 96% SOC and accepting about 11kw when the grid power went out. It just occurred to me that the high SOC may have resulted in a similar reaction by the Gateway.

I have 2 2015 MS P90DL and with every other update I lose regen strength and hope and pray with the next update it comes back. Can anyone else chime in with their experience? I'm currently on 2024.8.4 and 2024.20.1 is ready for download and install.

Hi all

I currently have a Mercedes C class and thinking to upgrade to a Model Y.

Never had an electric car before.

We are a family of 4 with two kids under 10.

Welcome your thoughts on how you’ve felt with a Model Y and points you wish you knew before you bought one!

Anything I should be looking out for when buying? Thinking to get a used one rather than new.

Thanks!

Hi guys, I was wondering if there is anyone here who could check data for me and see if that pack is healthy.

Car in question is Tesla Model S 75D from July 2018 with 147,212 miles / 236,195km

I have purchased Scan my Tesla accessories and trying to get to the bottom of data, I mean everything looks OK to me but it is very hard knowing without comparing these figures to a similar car to mine.

Things which are worrying, maybe they are not.

Battery current SOC is at 57%

*Battery voltage is showing as 320V - should we be concerned here or not at all? I believe 75kwh packs are 350V not 400V so maybe at higher SOC it will be closer to 350V?

*Battery degradation, it is showing as nominal capacity of 62KwH, which depend what figure we actually use for brand new battery pack, it is about 13% degradation, seems a bit high considering that DC charging was only about 30% of total charging, the rest was AC charging at home.

*Cells - well the number of cells looks strange to me, it appears that there are 83 not 84 cells? Does it sound correct?

*Cells voltage, it seems to be varying from 3.847V to 3.853V does it seems correct or too low, again it might be ok at 57% SOC, am I reading i right?

Based on pics, is there anything else in the data I should be concerned about please?

Anyone else having the issue where your Tesla is unable to check for an update (even after 24 hours)? I have two Model 3s (one on 2024.3.25 and one on 2024.14.6), and neither has checked for an update since June 2nd. I have tried reboots, hard shutdowns, recycled my wifi router and using my cell phone hotspot.

I just started installing 2024.20.1 on our 2024 Model X LR. It has some sort of fix for Automatic Doors! Should get to try it out later today!

Hi all, can anyone help with this Q on wheel rim covers?

I have an M3 performance (2023) with 20" uber turbine wheels. Got substantial amount of curb rash on the wheels. Need advice on whether rim covers are the answer and if so, the ones you'd recommend. Presumably I should also repair (some) the rashes to protect against rust or the like before I stick rim covers on?

Appreciate help/advice/pointers/links.

Thank you.

Just a thought experiment ..
If Elon can take TSLA market cap to AAPL/Aramco combined, I am OK with him getting another insane pay package?

I sit on my lazy ass, Elon sleep on factory floor?

Hey guys

We're about to update our Model 3 to a Model Y... the pricing here in Australia is great at the moment. Right now, we can opt for a HW3 Model Y with a $3,000 discount, or go for the latest batch which includes HW4, without the discount.

With some great advice from people on this forum, I've landed on the view that HW4 won't make a huge difference for standard Autopilot over the next couple of years. (Perhaps for Enhanced or FSD, it will.) So we're happy with HW3 from a functionality angle.

But I'm wondering about resale.

We'll be keeping this car until late 2027 (or even early 2028)... so around 3 and a bit years. By then, HW3 will be approaching its 8 year anniversary. HW4 will be 4 years old. Potentially by then, some features Tesla releases will be designated "HW4 only".

I'm wondering if resale will really take a hit on HW3 cars by then? Will buyers looking for a 2024 Model Y invariably be asking sellers "Is this a HW3 or HW4 car?", and if it's a HW3 car, walk away unless the price is substantially lower?

I guess there are two types of buyers... those who don't really think about the tech and just want a nice Tesla, and those who are more into the details. So perhaps HW3 is a safe choice as there will be plenty of buyers who don't know or care - as long as the car's in good condition!

The saving of nearly $3k AU is pretty significant (we have plenty of other house maintenance things looking for a share of our wallet), but if we're going to find the car harder to move in three years time, we'll stretch and go with a HW4 car now.

What do you think?

Cheers,
Mike

Greetings!

Sad to say I’m falling out of love with my Austin built 4680/GigaPress 2023 Model Y AWD, and I’m afraid I may make a hasty emotional decision.

I bought a 2018 Model 3 RWD in November 2018, realizing build quality was “a work in progress”, and features like FSD were “yet to be determined”. My reasons for buying were the SC system and lack of any meaningful competition. I sold it 2 years later, frustrated by the less than stellar ride, noisy interior and ever present tire noise. Much of my decision was based on my wife’s newly acquired 2021 BMW 330e, a plug in hybrid with limited 20 mile range, but sufficient for her daily driving most of the time.

I admit to enjoying BMW cars over the years, having owned several including 3, 5, 8 series cars along with 2 i3s, one pure BEV, the other with the ReX range extender. My fondness for BMW is a combination of build quality, along with a very enjoyable driving experience. My preference is a sporty feel, good dynamics and, most importantly a superior suspension setup.

I replaced the 2018 Tesla with V8 Mustang GT, manual transmission, missing the joy of driving an engaging and entertaining car. I sold it, moving into the 2023 Model Y. I hoped that the new changes (4680 batteries, Austin GigaPress build, upgraded suspension, quieter interior and more) would be a good addition to the BMW 330e. The Y would be the daily driver, doing COSTCO/carrying duty, which running costs and upkeep at very attractive levels.

The reality is somewhat less fulfilling. The 4680 pack is very slow to SC, even compared to my 2018 Model 3. It takes nearly 50% longer to replenish the same distance as my model 3. It’s even slower compared to my friends 2022 Model Y LR AWD with 2170 batteries. It seems the 4680 battery pack throttles down very aggressively slowing charging dramatically.

More frustrating is the ride quality and noise levels. Initially they were better than my friend’s 2022 Y, but that was on a smooth surface on the test drive and slow speed driving locally. On concrete roads the noise is beyond annoying. Compared to mybwof’es BMW the Model,Y rides like a truck. And can someone please tell me why Tesla windshield wipers remain unusable? When they required them to be automatically on all the time when in autopilot they made it impossible to use the system without phantom wipes all the time. As you can likely tell, I’m not very happy.

Adding to the angst my car had misaligned doors (fixed, but still not fully resolved), numerous rattles/squeaks (also fixed, but not resolved) and noise levels are louder than when new (currently 14k miles). That’s why I bought the Austin car - promised better build quality and better battery pack/charging. Neither expectation was real. Resale value is horrible, with the list price dropping over $15k, and new cars benefitting from $7,500 additional tax credits. Carmax is offering less than half of the January 2023 list price on my car in trade with 14k miles. Tesla’s offer is lower!

So, now what? I still like Tesla, but I find that the dream is turning into a nightmare. I also admit that I still enjoy the feel of a ICE sports sedan, and sports cars in general. A manual transmission car (I briefly had a Miata) puts a smile on my face, despite being a senior with arthritis. The model S is fast, but not as engaging to drive in dynamic situation (heavy weight, “OK” suspension), as least for me. The new Model 3 performance seems promising, but I’ve not seen one yet to test. I did try the FSD free trial, and it is a step forward, but not a must have for me. Standard autopilot is fine.

I had several,other EVs and won’t buy any car that doesn’t work on Tesla’s NACS standard. Those cars will likely come online in 2025 models, but maybe not. The BMW 5 is about the size/performance I’d like, but I can’t find an equivalent Tesla. The S should be the answer, but it doesn’t light my fire - seats are too low, A pillar too close to our preferred seating position. My wife and I are “vertically challenged”. I’ve also had friends sell their S cars due to lots of issues (most were 2022 and older cars).

Help talk me off the ledge. I’m afraid I’ll wake up with a Corvette in my garage If I can’t figure this out!

Thanks, I feel better.

Woohoo. A new one for Melbourne's North.
Carpark of the El Jannah and HJs in Campbellfield.

Spotted by Phillip D.

6 V3s.
Great location on Sydney Road, just off the Western Ring Rd near the intersection of the Hume Freeway.

I don't want this to come across as accusatorily ; just asking if anyone else experienced something similar.

Mid May I purchased a Y, applied and was approved for Telsa's .99% financing ; Santander is the bank. Only took a couple minutes for the approval and I accepted the terms right away.
The following couple days I started getting alerts about credit inquiries from monitoring services. I thought it was just them repeatedly notifying me about the Santander credit pull.

But then I started getting letters from multiple banks basically saying the same thing. We received your application but denied it because we were unable to verify your identification. Bank of America, US Bank & Wells Fargo. I called each of them to say it was not me.
Downloaded a credit report and see 6 hard pulls on my credit all from the 15 - 21st of May from different banks. Nothing after May 21
No new credit showing, sounds like someone stole my identity (has my SSN# and my address) but must not have all of my correct information?
I froze my credit at the 3: Experian, Equifax, TransUnion and hope that is the end of it.
Have never had something like this happen and other than the Tesla application have not applied for any type of credit in the past 12 months.

I am not sure if Telsa sent the application to so many banks? and the multiple pulls are all just for the 1 application?
Could be total coincidence ; otherwise my information seems to have been compromised in some manner when I applied online.
If my identity was stolen why did the thieves stop applying?

Anyway my credit score dropped about 50 points due to so many pulls from over 800 to in the 700's.
Still have not taken delivery of the car (no VIN yet) so I assume I will need to unfreeze my credit for the loan with Santander to actually open but not sure?

Worried if I don't get my car before 60 days pass I will need to reapply for the .99 offer to remain valid and at that time Santander may not approve me since my score has dropped significantly.

Plus of course worried there may be accounts actually opened successfully but not showing on my credit report yet, the Santander one which I was approved for only shows as a pull not an account opened.

I was driving on the left hand lane (since I was just about to turn left), and a driver was pulling out of the nearby gas station but did not stop. The driver hit my vehicle's driver's side door head-on.

Unfortunately, I don't have any sentry footage to share. I couldn't get into my vehicle for a few hours, as "driver's side door mode" didn't let me get into my car at all since the driver's side door was not working. Called Tesla customer service, and they couldn't disable that feature remotely.
"Unlatch door" from the app worked once I got my vehicle towed to the body shop. (I didn't try that before... should have tried on the spot). By the time I got into my vehicle, all dashcam footage had been overwritten. I forgot that you need to save the footage manually by honking.

Now I'm basically waiting for the adjuster to take a look at the damages. Hopefully the body shop in my area can start working on it soon. They don't have a backlog of Teslas at the moment.

Towing the vehicle was interesting. The AAA driver had to put some... wedges? under the rear tires to prevent them from spinning, since at the time we didn't know if we could get in the vehicle and put it in transport mode yet

No injuries to me that I know of. I am getting checked out in case, but the doctors think my soreness is from the seat belt. Hopefully they're right and I don't have any damage from this accident.

Cosmacelf said:

OK, maybe we can still make this bet real! Elon just posted:

Click to expand...

That suggests that they're going to risk their only launch facility. I could imagine them bringing the booster back to the launch site (to establish accuracy), but then dumping it in the Gulf and recovering it with a ship. Tow it to a port and lift the 200 ton behemoth out of the water. Even if they attempt a catch, they need some kind of contingency plan for a failure.

And surely the new launch facility won't be ready for another year. It took nearly four years of development to get where they are today.

Does DoJO actually have all the millions of sections of road, street, hi-way, intersections, parking lots etc with millions of Tesla's historical actions at those (call them nodes) stored in DoJOs memory? (Seems impossible) Then does DoJo transmit to the individual's Tesla the best action to take at those nodes? And when a driver intervenes and responds to the question, what happened? Is there a person that looks at that node and for example decide that the Tesla's action was not safe and then he revises the model for that node? Anyway, that is how I imagine it impossible as it may seem.

Is there anyway to listen to music via Bluetooth headphones using the read screen on the Highland?